*↘* RV Air Conditioner options, bit.ly/2LfmT1G it can be installed through wall or in a former front/back window location & Copy this ebay.to/2Lj9TV8 to your bookmarks, and *In the Winter* get a NEW RV AC unit really cheap. I stock my RV with Cheap High quality survival Food Kits, bit.ly/2Qs0vGO (electronic banking fails = NO FOOD) but your RV is stocked! Another great option for RV's 2pc AC unit, amzn.to/2nJ9Nwx Pioneer WYS012-17 Air Conditioner Wall Mount Mini Split System Air Conditioner & Heat Pump all parts included Home, RV or Tiny House, 12,000 BTU and 22% less power needed. It heats too. Mount the outside unit on the tongue or rear bumper, can run on a 2000 watt generator all day long!!! Whole RV will run on this one bit.ly/2vIUKay SP4000 without problems. My repair on my RV Increases air flow almost 40% to remove the heat, increase cooling & efficiency. The HOLDPEAK Anemometer for testing air flow is this model, ebay.to/2vRb4FO its impressive at a low cost. Better Ideas and easy affordable ! B -Links to highly supported RV Sportsman Gasoline 4000 Watt Portable Generator.

@DavidMosby

5 жыл бұрын

Why did you list this with only a SEER of 17 when there are units with 23 SEER?

@JOHNDANIEL1

5 жыл бұрын

It's based on not only seasonal ratings, most with ratings above 15 SEER are a complete lie, or you could say a stretch, based on laboratory conditions, not real life. Pioneer ( Felicity Refrigeration Guangzhou China /Seoul SK ) has been known to use 5 natural categories in power use and efficiency. My concern is the start up amperage which was more important to the power abilities of a RV's wiring system.

@CT9905.

5 жыл бұрын

I followed your video and I noticed very little difference in the inside temperature of my thirty seven foot RV. The outside temperature was over one hundred degrees in San Antonio, TX.

@Colaaah

5 жыл бұрын

@@JOHNDANIEL1 use super capacitors to help with the high amp draw on those devices. I'm guessing you probably know this though...

@CC-xs1hh

5 жыл бұрын

Јоhn Daniel , that's a great idea, ..my unit is dripping condensation inside, the drain hole and everywhere was really clean, a freind told me it could be a little low on freon, does that sound right? (It's cooling good)

When I bought my new RV last year, I was disappointed with the performance of the A/C unit - ran all the time and barely kept up. Since then I followed this tutorial and made this modification exactly as shown. This summer I'm pleased to report that the A/C performance has improved dramatically. We camped for a week in 100 degree weather and were comfortable inside. I highly recommend this modification. Great job and thanks for taking the time to make this video.

@lawrencepatricio5776

5 ай бұрын

I don't get it. Why do manufacturers sell you something that you have hack in order to work properly.

I don't have this style A\C unit, but being an A\C technician I can say this guy knows what he is talking about. Whether you get 3F or 10F more temperature differential it's going to be an improvement and increase longevity of the unit as well.

I did this. It did improve the AC. I checked the amp draw before and after. There was an improvement. Thanks for the idea.

Thank you , for your video , it takes a man that sees a problem and has the knowledge to fix it, having bought a new 40 foot triple slide motor home , I returned to the factory authorized repair shop with ac problems , refrigerator issues and slide out problems ,and the dealers service reps will tell you this is how your unit should preform , however however that statement is not true , showing they have no incentive to do a warranty call against the manufacture , and more times than not requires us to find a solution to problems and repair it yourselves . So much THANKS to you for sharing with your knowledge !

Great info. Will be full-timing it, starting at the end of this month. In the Phoenix area. This idea couldn't have come at a better time for us. Thanks.

good tip john i've been in the hvac field for 20 yrs. that condenser has to give up heat less restriction is always a +

I think dometic figured that out. My 2010 flagstaff has no back frame or screen, its wide open. I put a 1"x1" wire gaurd on it for safety.FYI: They make that stuff in stainless steel too.Good job love your vids,no nonsense.

I use a Rockwell to cut frp. Makes a nice smooth controlled cut.

Aircraft air cooled engines also use a baffle seal between the cowling and cylinders. That keeps the air from recirculating within the engine compartment. Great tip. Wish I had thought of it!

I love this guy's videos he is so down to earth and his ideas are so fantastic, sometimes you think what hell why didn't I think of that? Well you didn't but he does. Thank you so much for sharing your ideas with us you make life simpler.

Using Envirosafe (Pekin, IL) refrigerant ES12a Industrial refrigerant will lower the output cool air temperature 8-14* while reducing the load on the compressor. Price about $15 plus labor. EPA accepted and used world wide in refrigeration systems and automobiles. Ive been using it for decades.

I like watching KZread videos with tips and tricks work and makes sense on a mechanical level

Great solution. An alternative solution would be a heat exchanger coupled to the hot water tank. It is more expensive, but it will increase the efficiency as well.

Good hack. My old Carrier a/c,which I really miss, did not have a back on the shroud. My Coleman does. However, keeping the a/c clean is key as well. We had so much dirt in the area due to road construction that my squirrel cage got clogged. I clean my ac twice yearly.

To the people making comment. This is a technical video just to inform you of a better technique to ensure your air conditioning working at it top peak. I will never understand why some commenters feel I need to put down the video and the people making it? One person said it was drawn out as if he was getting bored. Some people get bored while watching documentaries and educational shows. But they get really excited when you put a cartoon on. While others was questioning the science and his technique which is there is absolutely nothing wrong with. The science is valid and the repair to increase airflow is a valid science what's your problem people? To those that made comments of encouragement and good ideas to add to the video thank you very much for being a decent human being. I guess some of these people really need to get out on their RV as quick as possible because it's starting to become calloused from too much City living. Just a thought. Y'all have a good day and try to be nicer. And John great video man keep up the good work. Who knows I might see you on the road someday.

@byronmouton9527

5 жыл бұрын

Darrel, on target, also cant understand why someone must be compelled to make negative comments on many of these videos. Clearly they must have an extreme superiority complex

@jackhall4680

7 ай бұрын

I agree. To the spreaders of negativity: If the video bothers you, MAKE A BETTER ONE. And keep your negative comments to.yourself. The rest of us are LEARNING and we do not want you to discourage our EXCELLENT TEACHER. We want MORE VIDEOS from him, NOT LESS.

Thanks for posting when you can improve the airflow that much, that ease, that cheap its a win/win Love how you took the time and use the meter to show before and after. well done

@FBPrepping

4 жыл бұрын

Yes you are right. Showing evidence is great for these kind of videos.

Great video, and after working on automotive AC units for 20+ years, your theories make perfect sense. More airflow = lower temps = lower head pressure on system = more heat transfer & cooler air inside at the evaporator. Simple and effective fix... nice work John! Sent this link to some friends of mine that are actually out on the road right now with their rig.😉👍

@JOHNDANIEL1

4 жыл бұрын

A year later what I did made a massive cycle change, and in a summer this year of over 3 degrees on average higher for a month this seriously made a big change. No more freezing up, and I finally figured out why, theres ONE motor on the whole unit, the restriction was so prevalent it slowed it down allowing frosting on the inside a few times. Never happened again after the mod! And no more 75 inside on the worst Texas heat, now its worse point is 70 in 105 degrees mid day. So the fact you remove saturated heat without the fan buffering it on the shroud is amazing and common sense, To most, just not all!

Great idea! Amazing how much restriction their was in the factory vent.

Great idea! Cracks me up how some people can be so critical. This makes total sense and I will be doing this to both of my units this weekend. (along with a thorough cleaning) friends, if this doesn't work, (or only minimally) you've lost an hour of your life and $10. Thanks for taking the time to make this vid!

@JOHNDANIEL1

5 жыл бұрын

All the issues I was having with the AC unit have stopped, amazing what problems the makers created to produce a cosmetic appearance.

Reduce restriction, eliminate leaks. I caulk and foam tape to seal any leaks where the sheet metal surrounds the evaporator & condenser. Just take a flashlight and shine it around to see tiny gaps, or just feel around to detect where air is getting around the radiator coils. Also clean it at least once a year for better air flow.

Thanks, it would be interesting to see the difference between the airflow flowing out versus blowing in, added smoke would show the turbulence that you talk about. Your comments about the shape of molding is right on, laminar air flow can be very important as the designs from golf balls to aircraft and with the AC unit like you are talking about.

Easy 5-10F difference . And less heat in the enclosure also extends the life of the other components in the A/C unit.

hell that even looks better to me. Plenty of different styles of screen and mesh you could use to do this. Great idea!

Very nice work. The older Dometic units as Mr. Hyatt points out a few comments later were a three-sided box with nothing in the back but the heat transfer fins. Mamy home condensers have very little protection so the fins can be exposed and not have any restrictions. I suspect the "Designers" at Dometic had more influence than the design engineers and so the change. Anyway, great work and a tremendous improvement to anyone with four-sided box.

My older coleman has an open back, I have modified the wood framing up inside the bottom to open up the space where air must flow(cut about 1" of the corner of the inside 2x4s to increase space. I also bored large holes on both sides and installed bigger filters to allow more air into return air space. The hoghair style plenum insulation around front of airbox can be swapped out for an extruded foam board and prevent heat exchanging issues. Putting some between motor and back of plenum is another spot for improvement...just dont block air circulation into motor vents.

Thanks for the video. I appreciate the time to explain everything and the hassle of handling the camera while being very descriptive about it also.👍👍

Good work. Keeping that a/c coil clean is a big plus too.

When i replaced my a/c unit i did notice and feel like these covers were so restricted, i will be doing this to my unit now, thanks for the vid!!

@JOHNDANIEL1

5 жыл бұрын

The best part is your unit will run less as it cycles and thats how you use less power. More heat removed means more cool made in a shorter compressor on cycle.

I did a similar thing too my cooler. The cover was cracked all over, used trailer, I installed industrial screening, as in for Windows on military vehicles, much tougher and easier too work with. Also much cheaper, only spent $3 for 100 foot roll. But you have too get the special cutter since this stuff can almost absorb a bullet. Did this before I even used the unit. Unit says it is 25amp at 120volts, but it runs full power with only 11-12 amp draw. I love it, and this is a great idea....

@dj-rm7bz

5 жыл бұрын

Brian Stoering where did you get the industrial screen you mentioned in your comment about the RV a/c mod?

Nice tip...I'll bet this guy is fun to be around....I'm a junker too and love making modifications to improve performance...Now, where's my wife,s vibrator.....

Great hack! We plan to make this modification next weekend. Thanks for sharing!

consider using pipe insolation on the coolant lines going into the RV i did it on my cars AC lines and noticed a huge difference.. although it did run above the exhaust manifold aswell

Thank you for the video and information. I know some people were saying you took too long. You could have made it in half the time but there are some people need every turn of the screw driver to understand. Maybe, notating 4 or 5 spots like at 4:23 for the cut out, made up time, and 7:40 for the riveting would help solve that time thing for more advanced viewers. Me, I got to watch it all, know what I mean?

I put a shield on top of mine. This is so the the sun is not in direct contact with the AC unit. It's basically a piece of sheet metal air gapped over the ac. The metal gets all the radiant heat from the sun. You are just cooling the hot air rather than the hot air and radiation absorbed into the body of the ac. The temp of the body panel on the ac is always well over 120 in the summer while its only 94 or so out. This all started when my ac could not cool my place down enough. Buying a new ac was out of the question since I was renting. I had some corrugated hurricane panels. I laid those over the AC unit and now my ac was able to cool the place down and actually shut off like it was supposed to. It made my bill drop a lot. My summer bills were over $300 before this. Now over or under $200. If my ac is not in the shade, I make sure its air gapped like this now.

@JOHNDANIEL1

4 жыл бұрын

A year later what I did made a massive cycle change, and in a summer this year of over 3 degrees on average higher for a month this seriously made a big change. No more freezing up, and I finally figured out why, theres ONE motor on the whole unit, the restriction was so prevalent it slowed it down allowing frosting on the inside a few times. Never happened again after the mod! And no more 75 inside on the worst Texas heat, now its worse point is 70 in 105 degrees mid day. So the fact you remove saturated heat without the fan buffering it on the shroud is amazing and common sense, To most, just not all!

if you want to know if this works for your own RV, run the a/c on a really hot day and see how effective it is. Then go up on the roof and take the cover/cap/shell off(opening up the airflow) and go back inside and see if there is improvement. If there is, do the mod, if not, put the cover back on and forget about it.

@aldercamper9430

4 жыл бұрын

Not a lot of people can objectively tell the difference... It's can be feeling colder/hotter, but to few people can accurately measure temperature, make some graphs, measure current draw, temperature difference (inside / outside / before / after), solar insolation e.t.c...

@theunconventionaldeal3879

4 жыл бұрын

I did the same mod months ago on a perfectly working unit, temps dropped 2 degrees on the output.

@JOHNDANIEL1

4 жыл бұрын

@@theunconventionaldeal3879 A year later what I did made a massive cycle change, and in a summer this year of over 3 degrees on average higher for a month this seriously made a big change. No more freezing up, and I finally figured out why, theres ONE motor on the whole unit, the restriction was so prevalent it slowed it down allowing frosting on the inside a few times. Never happened again after the mod! And no more 75 inside on the worst Texas heat, now its worse point is 70 in 105 degrees mid day. So the fact you remove saturated heat without the fan buffering it on the shroud is amazing and common sense, To most, just not all!

@theunconventionaldeal3879

4 жыл бұрын

@@JOHNDANIEL1 mines not 100% effective but it works better until I replace it, without covering windows it's 82 and 105 outside so good till I get a new one.

@moodberry

3 жыл бұрын

@@JOHNDANIEL1 SO you are saying that it was 75 when it was 105 outside, and this gave you a 5 degree improvement? That's great! My unit is a heat pump, so I expect that in the winter, it would also heat better

Okay I'm hooked, now waiting to see your fridge rebuild

You sir are a genius. Going to do both on my camper. Thank you.

My factory Dometic on a 2017 Trailer actually shut it self off after running for a few hours in direct sunlight... this mod is high on my list.

Nice trick here! One thing I would do different is put some trim on the outside also and make it look better.

You seemed distracted for a moment by the stress of the 4 legged inspectors looking over your work. You shouldn't worry, they appeared to approve of everything you were doing.

Thank you for all this DIY info I’m definitely subscribing!

Roof air from a camper will cool your shop Way better than a window unit. I learned that the hard way! Giing back to roof air 👍 check out red dot has redesigned and reintroduced their roof air for semi trucks. It expells the heat up top away from your cab, and doesn't put more heat in front of your radiator and intercooler.

Thats a great upgrade, these ac units need all the help they need, its hot out there

@JOHNDANIEL1

5 жыл бұрын

Doing a video soon showing how to mount a $140 5000 btu AC on the roof of a RV with some fancy sheet metal work for sending cool down into the rig and return air back.

Some RVs have an aluminum or galvanized roof which is not painted. If you paint your roof white, it makes a dramatic difference in the heat soak that transfers to the interior of the RV. A lot of states have rebate programs for people who can paint their roof white to save air conditioner costs and load to the grid.

Very smart man ,I always send viewers and Diyers here to learn the right way .good vid again!

Great tip!! Gonna be doing that to my travel trailer soon!!! Thx for sharing!!

Thanks Uncle, appreciate your attitude and instruction!

Great Video.. I’m gonna do that to my Dometic AC unit on my class A motorhome..thanks for the video..

@JOHNDANIEL1

6 жыл бұрын

Stay tuned because we have 20 of these 100 watt panels ebay.to/2KIw4E9 to put on this big Jayco

The Carrier Air V air conditioner (no longer made) on my 2003 5th wheel has no grill at all over its condenser coils. I actually had to install a steel mesh grill over it to protect it from being damaged by hail stones here in Colorado. The added grill made no noticeable difference it the AC cooling capacity. (Cleaning the coils once a year keeps it working well.)

@ddd228

5 жыл бұрын

Mine is exposed too. I just cleaned my filters!!!!!

John, great idea. Thank you for the video and sharing with us.

And also clean the unit occasionally as dirt build up will affect its performance.

I modified both ac units on my 36 ft Tiffin Alegro Bay and it worked great for both of them. One unit is 17 years old and the smaller one is new. The other improvement I noticed is a significant reduction in ac noise. It would be interesting to measure dB before and after.

We just bought a trailer in Yuma , will be doing this soon. Thanks

Excellent tip! Thank you for sharing your knowledge on this.

Awesome hack man thanks for sharing! Gets hot here in Tucson!

Just watched your video I think this is a great idea. I know if you increase engine hp you start with exhaust. Gotta get the air out.

Dude, great idea! Gonna do that. These AC manufacturers don’t want us to keep our units working, it’s not good for their bottom line. Thanks!

Great idea. I live in Bullhead City, AZ and like to "camp" in our front yard when home. I have installed buth the RV Air Flow and Soft Start units but even with this both of the Coleman Mach 10's compressor would cut off when the ambient temperature reached ~110 degrees. The compressor stays off until either the Circuit breaker is cycled off/on, or the thermostat is turned off then back on. I chose to use black vinyl coated 1/2" square welded wire fence material (Amazon) and rather than rivets, washers or custom fabricated brackets I just cut the fence material to fit inside the rear air intake and also the left side exhaust vents because improving air flow there helps to cool the compressor. I drilled two small 1/16" holes through the plastic shroud, one on each side of the welded wire then I twisted the wire to fasten the welded wire material to the inside of the shroud. Repeat this process every few inches as needed to secure the welded wire matrerial against the plastic shroud. Then I used a Dremel with an abrasive cutting wheel to cut the shroud's horizontal plastic rib, leaving several horizontal and all vertical ribs to maintain structural integrity. I will have to wait for 110+ degree days to know for sure but the reduced compressor vibration and lower compressor run current leads me to believe that this will allow cooling the RV even with ambient temperatures >115 degrees... of course with only two units at best the tinside temperasture will remain ~20 degrees cooler than outside temperatures. 95 degrees since there is virtually no humidity is tolerable but 115 or more with AC units that turn off isn't. In the event that there isn't enough improvement, I can still cut out more of the shroud's ribs...

@danhoy8356

28 күн бұрын

Good to know this works. I was thinking about getting on with the dam there. I work at one up in WA state.. but kinda want the sun lol

Outstanding video going to perform same upgrade to my RV air-conditioning!

Xactly what I have been looking for. Thank you so much for putting this video out and for explaining why it works! Awesome job brother. Im in East TX where its 100+Subed.

@JOHNDANIEL1

6 жыл бұрын

101 hear today, supposed to hit 105 before cooling off. But, 14% humidity!

Very good idea creative and simple yet I bet it really helps I mean you got that hot air out. I'm gonna give it a try. on my R-Vision Trail- Lite. Thanks for sharing the idea.

Damn good idea, I'm going to do all 3 sides but I'll probably use the small screen on it just for the hail we have in south central oklahoma

A hint, I've been using a diamond blade in my angle grinder for years to cut vinyl siding. It works great! Never clogs.

Great video! Great info! Thanks so much! Trying to learn as much as I can about my RV! Will be traveling full time by myself!

30 years in the HVAC and R business. He is correct! Less air flow equals less capacity! Also, Clean those coils! When they block up with dirt and it will hurt!

My next RV project! Thanks!!

That is awesome I'm about to head to Florida this coming up weekend and would like to have plenty of nice cold air and less draw easy fixed thanks for a cool video

Saw it ....did it......WOW!!! THANK YOU!!!

Thanks for the video very informative I will be doing this to mine as soon as I get a day free from work ! 👍👍

THANK YOU FOR SHARING YOUR KNOWLEDGE SIR. YOU WILL BE BLESSED, LOOK FOR IT.

Using induction heat source on compressor free absorption refrigerator also works well

What a simple hack! I'm not even sure you need the metal edging if you just put some washers on the inside of the rivets over the metal screen. As far as the wasps go, that metal grill has to be more effective than the big open slots in the stock cover, lol. Great episode.

@scottspencer8358

5 жыл бұрын

Bubba Warbucks The metal transition strips will help aid in rigidity making it even stronger than orignal design.

@MeanderingMarty

5 жыл бұрын

Why didn't I think of this!!!! You know that I will be ripping mine off and doing this. I also might try a water mister to try and make it shed even more heat.

Love it doing it next week , looking forward to more of your video's !

Great tip and if you do all three sides it will keep out the little green frogs 😈👍👊

I cut both of mine out on my Coleman Mach3 It is the type that sucks instead of blows through the rear. But did it anyway sure it will help with flow. Also cut a few sections out of the sides so it can breathe with more flow coming in

I'm able to keep the temperature 30-35 degrees cooler inside my RV. I installed 2 misting nozzles at the condenser in order to cool the air entering the unit. This combined with some strategically placed mylar (windows and roof vents) works like a charm! 115 degrees outside....78 inside..

@MissionaryForMexico

Жыл бұрын

This will also change the compreser pressure reading aswell!

@TheMajictech

11 ай бұрын

It’ll work Until the minerals in the water clog up the condenser fins

I believe this mod to work as suggested. Only thing I wish he would of showed us was the air speed out of unit with the unmodified shroud still on.

@kipdon

3 жыл бұрын

I thought he did in the beginning of the video...? He was just simulating it inside the shop with a house fan. also at the end of the video I believe he did again Up on the roof when he was about to put the modded cover on.

I loving this! Thanks for info!

Awesome John!! Thanks I am going to work on our 46 ft Jayco Toy hauler 3 units!!

@JOHNDANIEL1

10 ай бұрын

Sounds great! , Keep a spotter and don't fall off that nice rig!

New subscriber, great content with a lot of common sense solutions to a wide range of everyday problems. Im a fixit guy myself, so i love yer style! 👍 And you're right, I can fix it myself, it aint that hard!! ❤😊

Thats awesome that you got the Ac to improve its performance. I am thinking I may try it for both roof Airs in my Allgro. Good job on the video by the way. Jim

@JOHNDANIEL1

4 жыл бұрын

It made a significant difference, very well proven this summer.

Just added another thing to my list. I have a brand new RV with 2 15K AC units, and both combined barely keep up. I already inspected the plenums on both and found the front AC was partially blocked on both ducts and corrected it, so now going to check the covers and open them up if needed. This mod makes perfect sense because the whole idea of the large dehumidifier is to pull the heat away. Just the act of compressing the gas into liquid raises the refrigerant to 120*, and in order to change into liquid, you need to remove the heat, otherwise you just have hot highly compressed gas. It needs to be liquid when it hits the expansion valve, because changing from liquid to gas is what drops the temp across the evaporator, so hot gas entering the expansion valve doesn't cool down anywhere near as much as liquid does. Great tip on the cover mod, never would have considered it an issue.

@heliarc5186

2 жыл бұрын

Does yours have ducts running through roof? On mine, I have round twist adjusters for ac. I removed it. So it's a hole with upper plastic. Don't know if you have those types. But man it let's way more air in the center portion. I usually have had to supplement acs last year I got 2 portable acs along with 2 ac roof units. Talk about stressing breaker... trying to get mine working efficiently so I can get away with only 1. Or none

@perrykee6800

Жыл бұрын

BTW acdii; RV AC units do not use TXVs. Although, your point is correct about the refrigerate being 100% back to the liquid phase in order to provide cooling!

Keep in mind that the aluminum strip that is riveted behind the shroud will expand and contract with extreme temperature swings will also add stress onto the rivets to push against the plastic. One way to solve this problem is to elongate the holes in the aluminum strip.

@NackDSP

Жыл бұрын

Plastic expands and contracts with temperature much more than aluminum, but your point is valid. When there is a difference in temperature expansion coefficients of two materials, there will be stress on the fasteners.

@johnnybravobandit

Жыл бұрын

@@NackDSP it's rivets. They'll be fine.

@GBuds_RVremodel

2 ай бұрын

As an aviation fabricator, your over thinking this. It's true but there's not enough to make any difference, unless it's about 30,000ft

Great idea!! Gonna do the same. Thank you! Just subscribed!!

Excellent idea thank you for sharing this important information listening from Brownwood Texas

Oh I am definitely doing that

Priceless! thanks you man.

Sold! Thank You for your interesting content and grat idea's!

WOW! Thank you SO MUCH. It works Perfect!!

look at the window shacker in you house has the exact same expanded metal for the grill on the back

This is a Great idea! The next step up is to put a misting nozzle between the fan and evaporator. Like WRX STI had misting the intercooler.

Great idea. Thanks

Amazing idea!

A lot easier, cheaper, and reduces weight, if you take a small drill bit, perhaps 1/8 inch, and drill about 50 or 100 small holes into the slotted area of the case, to increase the open area. Even just a few tiny holes in those vertical pieces will greatly reduce their resistance to air flow.

Mine is an 87' Dometic Aire ,and has no part of the cover in front of the fins.still work's fine.

You just made the engineers at Dometic look like fools. Very good work!! I will be giving you a shout-out on my channel next time I mention A/C units.

@JOHNDANIEL1

6 жыл бұрын

After doing the video yesterday, today we peaked out at 102, temp inside was under 68 all day. Obvious issue solved. I am living in it next to my house while doing a major remodel. Glad I figured it out.

@geraldhenrickson7472

5 жыл бұрын

Not really. I am sure the engineers at Dometic determined just how much airflow is needed. This test means nothing. Just keep your a/c clean and move on.

@DuffyF56

5 жыл бұрын

Increased airflow increases the heat transfer. Simple thermodynamics.

@whataboutbob9786

5 жыл бұрын

Domestic saving money, manufacturing plastic cap. RV owner saving money with modification. Actual good tip/mod.

@Colaaah

5 жыл бұрын

@@geraldhenrickson7472 yeah they worked out how you need to change your a/c unit for a new one sooner from running so hot and burning out earlier then it should, but long enough after the warranty finishes...

Check your sub cool and super heat numbers and match them up with the manufacturer's numbers in both ways. That's the real test of whether or not it's working right. I'm pretty sure the engineers at Dometic have it dialed in a certain way.

Thank you im going to try it

That's brilliant. Thanks for sharing.