Once you drill in the hole, place the drill in reverse, and the backward motion will not grab and jerk. However, it will create a nice circle that will help once you place it back to cutting direction.

pro tip, start hole saw in reverse for a few seconds then go back right tighty direction and you shouldn't skip the bit anymore

Drilling in reverse will give you a much cleaner cut

Try using you drill in reverse after the bit drills the pilot hole. It should still cut through the polyethylene just fine. IT will take a bit longer but still give a very clean cut and less chance of kicking back as it is not as agressive.

I know that center one is your out let but did you say you’re doing 2 inlet holes?? More water pressure since it’s gravity fed??

How are you connecting to tubing from the chiller ? Are you using 3/4" tubing or 1"? Would you switch to 3/4" bulkheads if you were using 3/4" tubing? thanks

Would placing both holes on the short end of the tank be a mistake? Im thinking this would result in shorter hoses (less condensation/less heat loss), but Im not sure if this would impede proper circulation. Thanks!

Hey. Read some of the other comments and starting my own project. In his hidsight would you have just used the drain hole that’s already there and drilled one less hole? Or is two necessary?

Do you think adding some plumbers putty along with the bulk head can ensure enclosure? Bought some cause I was going to use a drainage pipe instead but found this video, would want to make use of the putty if it helps😊

The factory out let is plenty! Just fine reducers to fit it. For a outlet. Start drilling a bunch of holes in it, and rein it. Can always run the top hose over the top for a inlet. can use a spray bar, or like a water fountain. Its got factory holes around the top rail. for a mount if you wish

I just did mine and tried something different to clean the hole up. If you have a heat gun, pull anything excessive off by hand. After that, use your heat gun to melt up the rest of the little pieces. I tried this aesthetically on the top of the tup where I hit it with my saw and it shaped up nicely so I cleaned this up the same way.

Thank you for your videos. I bought your framing and plumping plans. I understand that you used the existing drain hole on the 100 gal rubbermaid tank as your outlet to the chiller. Did you use a y connector shutoff valve at the drain hole so the outlet hole can also be used to drain the tub? Hope that makes sense.

Any reason for the Rubbermaid over the metal? Thanks for the video good stuff!

Thanks for all the great videos! Does it matter how high on the tank the holes are cut for the inlet and outlet? Any reason one should be higher or lower than the other? Thanks!

I am thinking about getting the framing plans off your website. I have a 150 gal Rubbermaid tub and wanted to know if the plans are speced for 150 gal. If not what changes would need to be made for 150 gal tub?

I have a rubbermaid tub just like the one in your vid, and I use the icepod chiller. What do you recommend for insulation around the tub to help it stay cool, and what about the condensation?

Make your pilot hole without the hole saw on the arbor. After your pilot hole is complete then add the hole saw back onto the arbor. This allows you to slowly move the hole saw in rather than that abrupt start when the pilot bit goes through. 👍🏻

just found your channel. thank you! any reason this wouldn't work with the galvanized steel tanks?

Would you recommend a special hole saw drill bit for a galvanized steel horse trough tank?

I bought a water chiller that shipped with all the tubing, bulkhead fittings, elbow barb fittings, etc all sized at 3/4" (the Penguin Cold Therapy Chiller). Do you think I need to upgrade these parts to 1"? or am I fine using what they sent with the chiller?