Thank you for the video, super helpful as always! On my 2013 335is DCT, I got the 50mm nut off the driveshaft with just leaving the transmission in Park, no brace it came off. Used a Sunex 97752A 2" crowfoot wrench from Amazon $15. Thats it. Torqueing it to the prescribed 85nm/62 ft lbs using the crowfoot wrench: The torque wrench was 15” long from center of wrench to center of hand grip. Crow’s foot has an extra 2.25”. the torque will be 15% high or 72.1 lb-ft. The point of the formula is I set the torque wrench at 54 lb-ft to get an actual of 62 lb-ft. Other torque specs: big 50mm nut to driveshaft.... 85nm/ 62 ft lbs.... blue lock tight on splines Rear diff bushing... 21mm back bolt.... 121 ft lbs torque spec Front diff bushings bolts... 73 ft lbs 18mm exhaust hangars Axle bolts... 52 ft lbs... blue locktight gear oil through fill hole and torque to 44.3 lb-ft with 14 mm male hex.

Interesting design. We have an F15 X5 so have it on our car. Now a bunch more tools just to remove the drive shaft. Thanks for sharing. Please keep the F15 videos coming.

Thank you so much. I'm in the middle of doing this job and was unsure of whether the driveshaft was collapsible as you showed. Perfect. I will be posting a video of this job soon as well. Thanks again just what I needed.

Nice video, thanks. I have a 2015 F11 which has this solution when I was expecting the flex disc, this video was great help to know how to deal with it.

Proper informative video. 👏👏

When you remove the plastic cover at 4:35 it is clearly visible that the rubber seal which is on the 50mm nut is on the OUTSIDE part of the flange. But when you put it back at 6:00 you stick it underneath the flange - is that correct? Also - by design it seems it is really NOT holding to anything on the differential - only that rubber seal is holding the driveshaft with the diff. That makes me wonder whether you could simply PULL OUT the driveshaft from the spline shaft of the differential...

At six minutes, it shows him tucking the rubber seal into the pinion nut. This is wrong. Do not do that. The seal sits on the outside of the pinion nut and then the blue retainer.

@simazhenzhen

5 ай бұрын

You are very right. Finally someone pointed it out. I mean people can clearly tell the round foam thing is a dust seal and plastic cap is the seal securer. If leaving behind it, it will squeeze to break when tightening.

@user-jl7hx1zz6d

6 күн бұрын

Thanks for that information/ correction. I will remember this if and when I encounter this. You made this video even more accurate and helpful.

#GoofyEngineering #NotaFan 100 N-m with ease. I got excited this was a demo of the BMW E9X M3 Drive Shaft replacement. These two piece BMW driveshafts have a U-Joint in the middle that is not serviceable. When you develop the M3 DS clunk noise, it is a pain. There are remanufactured M3 driveshafts that replace the u-joint with a serviceable unit. The quick solution is to replace the center bearing in the middle with he bracket. A lot of labor $$$, even though the parts are inexpensive. You can also replace the rubber guibo disk (front of the DS) at the same time.

Aren't you supposed to torque the nut to 120nm then back it off 90 degrees then retorque it to 45nm? That's what I was told by 2 different dealerships.

Good

The 12 point nut is to set the Pinion preload .if not torque to spec. Your looking to buy customer a brand new rear diff . Yes the nut need to be removed to change the Pinion seal which they leak all the time

@GarethFoley

Жыл бұрын

Correct.

@sorry4nothing983

8 ай бұрын

Hi, if i only want to take out the drive shaft for tank removal. Do i have to replace the 12 point nut aswell? Or can i leave it there and only replace the insert nut with both rings? Thanks!

Any insight on center support bearing pre-load when reinstalling the driveshaft? Is it required? Also, why not use parking brakes instead of the driveshaft holding tool?

@jayparnes

Жыл бұрын

On other cars I’ve worked on, the CSB preload is set by pushing the driveshaft towards the front of the car about 5mm, then tightening the CSB bolts.

wait.. if it's splined on the diff, E brake/parking brake will hold it just fine..

It would be nice to have video on how to remove those rear CV axles.

@GarethFoley

Жыл бұрын

This same car needs an axle seal. So that will be coming up at some point.

@Polo08816

Жыл бұрын

@@GarethFoley I've done it before with the BMW tool but that was an expensive purchase. Hopefully the alternative tool options for the F chassis.

@anthonyh958

Жыл бұрын

@@GarethFoley would be great for me if that video drops soon!

Would a 2017 M4 be same?

Don‘t forget to let the car sit after for two hours without driving. This is is the bmw repair procedure. The loctite has to make a proper connection👍🏼

“If you mess with the 12 point nut you’ll have a bad day”. What could happen? Wouldn’t that be how you get access to the pinion seal?

@GarethFoley

Жыл бұрын

The 12 point nut is the pinion shaft nut and sets preload on the pinion bearings. There is no torque spec for this per se since the pinion is preloaded from the factory and total torque required to get to that preload spec will vary from differential to differential. If the nut does need to be removed, for example a pinion seal replacement, you need to mark the nut to the pinion shaft to put it back in the same position. If you unknowingly loosen this nut without marking a preload spot you won't be able to get it back to the same spot where it needs to be.

How would we change the center support bearing? is there a bolt in-between the yoke like on the e chassis?

@turncoat725

13 күн бұрын

Did you figure this out ?

Is the driveshaft holding tool really necessary? ISTA says to use a suitable tool to hold the driveshaft which appears to be a large screw driver through the u-joint at the center support bearing. They do not specify any holding tool for the driveshaft other than that. I only want to do this one time but don't want to spend $350 to hold the driveshaft in place if I don't have to.

@souniquexyz

Жыл бұрын

No, at least in my case, it was not necessary. I put mine up on ramps after coasting to lock the parking prawl. I used a 24" torque wrench with a 50mm crow foot wrench. I applied slow and steady pressure and the nut moved. I reset the wrench a click, it continued to move. After 15-20 minutes, the nut was completely off. I wouldn't recommend anything less than 24" or you just cannot get enough torque (I tried a 12" wrench with a pipe extension around 18" total and I couldn't move the nut).

@exiteternium

12 күн бұрын

@@souniquexyz use the e/parking brake on the center console, it will do the same thing.

Uhm aren’t u supposed to like glue the splines with the expensive green loctite

You lost weight- look much healthier!

$800 worth of tools just to take off a driveshaft...thanks BMW

@tecitez16

Жыл бұрын

They are indeed expensive. Unfortunately they are necessary when you want to do the job right.

@heyhayhay247

Жыл бұрын

@@tecitez16 thank you for the valuable insight?

@angelg.m-m285

Жыл бұрын

Yw 💗

Come on more tools that the mechanic has to pay for and they wonder why nobody wants to work on cars because $100,000 worth of tools is never enough 🙄 it's getting crazy!!

@gustavomercado1599

Жыл бұрын

I mean in the rest of the world tools are paid by the employer

@jeffthejinjer

Жыл бұрын

@@gustavomercado1599 yes most trades supply all the tools for you!

Just a warning y'all, FCP no longer refunds your money for it's lifetime warranty replacement. Instead you will only get store credit in the future. So you have to at least convert your money to store credit.

@jayparnes

Жыл бұрын

Works for me. I’m always buying parts.

F15 fans may want to Google 'X50i Bible' and roll all the way to the end of the thread to access my article on these cars.