Great video! I've watched 10 or so videos on installing hardwood flooring and this is the first one that talked about instaliing a spline piece. Great advice. Thanks.

@johnmcdonald5998

5 жыл бұрын

Excellent video!!!

Thank you, Ben Affleck. This video is great help.

Thanks for some great information about how to install a hardwood floor. I'm helping a family member install a floor this weekend and they bought their floor from Gaylord. I'm impressed with the information you're providing customers with videos like this. Well done!

Best hardwood floor installation video I’ve ever seen. 👍👍

Most informative and practical diy I’ve watched on HWF installation I’ve watched thus far and makes sense to start in the middle of the room! All set now and ready to begin my installation. Thank you for posting this. ❤️👍🏾

The best informative video I have found for installing a hardwood flooring, specially the part which suggests to start the installation in the middle of the room and the "how it is done". Thank you.

@executiveexhalecoaching

2 ай бұрын

Agreed!

Best hardwood installation video.

My first hardwood install - 5" Brazilian Cherry. This video is great, but I would add that I found out it is easier to cut off any nails or cleats that did not seat properly into the wood with a Dremel tool, rather than to attempt to drive them further into the wood with a punch, especially when installing a wood like Brazilian Cherry.

Great video guys! Thanks for all the tips!

Great video, concise and to the point. Well done.

This is a very professional video. Great job!

Thank You for the fantastic video! Great Help Guys!!

Best & direct video I've watched, I'm having a timber floor put onto a tongue & grooved floor shortly & this video & the instructions are very helpful! Thanks guys!

@Gaylordhardwoodflooring

7 жыл бұрын

Thanks Clint Eastwood. There are some good, but mostly bad and ugly videos online when it comes to hardwood flooring. Hopefully this video went ahead and made your day.

@165liam

7 жыл бұрын

Yes, it made my day punk! lol

Excellent video! Thank you!

Thanks so much for an informative video!

great video the best i have seen thanks

best video i have seen thanks

really great video. Thank you so much for posting this.

@Gaylordhardwoodflooring

5 ай бұрын

You’re welcome! We’re so glad that you found it helpful!

Quality explanation and install

Thanks very much very helpful God bless you

Thanks for using the Silicone Vapor Shield the best ratted underlayment paper that meets the NWFA requirements. No tar saturated or laminated paper therefore no VOC’S and no tar smell after installation. Thanks

Thank you, great info!!!

Great video

Thank you!!

thanks for the info

Great details! Thank you!

this guy is the robot T-1000 from the terminator But very informative. thank you T.

yup. Good video. Thanks.

I'm looking to install wide plank pine of varied widths, 12'', down to 6'' in a dineroom and kitchen. Having a hard time finding Live Sawn. (Not rough sawn). The installer is planning to glue the flooring to the plywood sub-flooring. From what you are saying I need to nail it, not glue. Also, looking into using square nails that show. What questions to ask the installer to find out if he knows what he's doing? Thanks for the video.

I just got my attic refinished and looking to put down wood flooring , do you recommend regular paper underlayment or cork? Or what do you recommend ?

Great video! What is considered a large room?

I am watching my flooring being installed (Bruce HW Hickory) and I noticed some small gaps - at the ends of the boards. I can fit my fingernail into these spaces. Also, there are few corners raised on the transition where he rotated a board to meet the threshhold. I don't mind this type of transition but the corners that stick up will definately hurt. What to do?

Appreciate this video! Thank you. Question - when you're calculating the spacing at the edges are you only concerned with the width of the boards? For example - a room that is 10 feet wide by 30 feet long. Say you're installing Red Oak - would you put 1/2 inch at walls of the 10 foot width and 1.3" at the ends of the 30 foot length of the room? (30 feet of 1.3" gap and 10 feet of .5 inch gap)??

@Gaylordhardwoodflooring

6 жыл бұрын

Yes. When wood is exposed to humidity it grows in the width, not in the length. Like humans when they are exposed to food, they get wider, not taller. :)

at what size room would recommend to start in the center?

Sustainability for All I am installing unfinished 3 1/4” Brazilian Cherry hardwood flooring & finding so many different widths. Most are within 2mm, but many with 4mm difference, creating gaps. Some boards, the width does not match from end to end. Is this a normal issue with this wood? What is the maximum acceptable gap as far as your standards & what can be done about it? Thank you

nice. what kind of wood is that @2:36 ?

This is one of the best videos on naildown flooring I’ve seen. One question I have is you mentioned not to glue the wood directly to subfloor because that could restrict natural movement of the floor during humidity change, but isn’t nailing it to the subfloor the same thing?

@idontthinkso666

4 жыл бұрын

fundamental misunderstanding of how a nail-down wood floor functions. Only one side is nailed. The other is free to move. Glue does not allow for that movement. Read about T&G flooring.

Hi my friend how are you I have a question about the tools

Great video to teach others like me that want to tyr they own. What king of white glue where you using just white wood glue? Thankii

@chrislour8938

6 жыл бұрын

Use mapei bud

@rogerhodges9721

4 жыл бұрын

In the video he said that he was using a polyurethane glue. That would be Gorilla Glue.

You say to make sure we don't glue the floor directly to the subfloor because that will prevent the natural movement of the floor. But the rest of the floor is nailed to the subfloor anyway, so what's the difference ?

Never use glue in the tongue and groove. This will prevent natural expansion and cause it to expand twice as much at the next available expansion point. There are a few exceptions but if you think you need glue in the tongue and groove check carefully for an alternative. There is no need to glue a piece of spline when going groove to groove. Never use a brad nail unless you are working with thinner flooring or attempting to nail a particularly thin rip. A 15 or 16 gauge nail is perfectly adequate in a standard oak floor. The trick is to look for a grain feature to hide the nail. The thing to remember is that wood has a memory. It will always try to revert to its natural shape. This is why when starting a floor it is important to search out good straight boards. If you are working with a lesser grade material you may have to open several bundles to find the appropriate boards. Flooring expands and contracts no matter what you do. You must allow for this no matter how dry you think it is. A good floor begins with good material. In this day and age it is a good idea to get some information on the product manufacturer as well as the floor finish manufacturer. Flooring finishes are specifically designed for floors and should be used no matter what the guy at home depot says. Which brings up the most important point of all. When asking questions do not ask someone who did it once way back when he was sixteen or has never done it at all. There are wood flooring professionals for a reason. They have probably done a job like yours hundreds of times. A professional can at least steer in you in the right direction to get good quality materials which will make or break your job. Now that you are ready to tackle those floors, what about the stairs ? Uh oh.

@markfloors6988

3 жыл бұрын

Never heard of that, some manufacturers will tell you to glue the tongue and grooves (which as an installer you hate because it slows the installation down), doesn't take the glue long to start hardening, so based on your theory...a glue down floor would just absorb the moisture from the glue and would put flooring manufacturers out of business lol, tell the person who told you that they are a liar and don't know what they are talking about

@markjohnson6498

3 жыл бұрын

@@markfloors6988 Wow you are completely ignorant. Did you even watch the video?

@markfloors6988

3 жыл бұрын

@@markjohnson6498 The question is...Are YOU ignorant? I know what is the reason for my commenting to you, do you know the reason behind you commenting to me?

@markfloors6988

3 жыл бұрын

@@markjohnson6498 Or perhaps you need to re-read my comment, maybe you answered to my comment half drunk and sleepy lol

@markfloors6988

3 жыл бұрын

@@markjohnson6498 the time now is 8:52 a.m. January 2nd, and perhaps you were a little hungover from the day before because of New Year's, so drink you some coffee ( black with no sugar or cream) when you get up throw some cold water on your face and then reply back to me with some common sense, thank you

When starting a row in the middle of room, when you nail the first row that you intend on reversing with spline. Sometimes Brad nailing the tounge tilts the board and nailing the spline doesn't pull the board back flush . Any suggestions.

@markfothebeast

3 жыл бұрын

Take a hammer and scrap flooring piece and push the groove in to the tongue and make it go straight. I'm not pro but I'm dealing with this right now.

@bryce817

3 жыл бұрын

@@markfothebeast i been trying different methods. Best I found was cleat nailing both sides of the board that you will be putting the spline into. Set the cleats with a nail punch. Then glue the spine and brad nail in place. Brad the next row to prevent sucking it down too hard, this works good for me.

@markfothebeast

3 жыл бұрын

@@bryce817 Good idea. I just worked with the tilt until I put in about 15 (2-1/4" plank) rows. That's when I watched this video. I glued the splines, then cleat nailed that side and did a couple rows on that side. The part I'm not clear on is how many rows must I install on the opposing side? I can only go so far until I finish some work in the connecting room.

@geodude6244

3 жыл бұрын

Put floor glue under it and put some boxes on it also i think a finish nailer would be better

@markfothebeast

3 жыл бұрын

@@geodude6244 Nail a plank with a finish nailer once and see how much effort it requires to pull out with one hand. They come right out. There's a pneumatic palm cleat nailer that fits in even tighter spots. Cleats have way more holding power over 15g/16g finish nails.

You're not going to overlap and tape the underlay? And, a thirty-foot hardwood floor with bloat up to 2 1/2"? Have you ever lived in a home with 20/30 rooms? Such expansion simply does not occur. By that token, a gymnasium floor would expand the better part of a FOOT! How exactly does any of this non-floating floor expand, when it's NAILED DOWN? Are the nails elastic?

.5 inch expansion on your start and final rows is the acceptable expansion that works and is about the most your ever going to get any builder or homeowner to tolerate. the left side of the room is always tight and the right side (the cut end) needs the width of the tongue for expansion. The sides barely expand enough to even worry about it's only the 1st and final rows that need the .5 inch. You do need to treat any angled walls as if they are end walls and leave the .5 SEE MY COMMENTS UNDER YOUR MATH COMMENT BELOW.

@daniels1293

4 жыл бұрын

No every side needs 1/4 inch for expansion any more than that and you need to do base and shoe molding for it to cover since most moulding is 3/8ths of an inch. If youre tight on the left side you can have squeaks down the road.

Did you make the vent frame or is it a separate piece?

@moeali3190

4 жыл бұрын

4G64SicKShoT it’s a separate piece

What is wrong when glue keep coming between the gaps of the floor. The floor has been down for about a year but it is still gushing glue in only one section

@aboden69

5 жыл бұрын

are you sure its glue. The glue should set, and harden. Its either defective glue, or something seeping out of the subfloor.

Why is the joist direction not addressed when deciding the direction to lay the hardwood? I’ve been taught and installation instructions on the hardwood, the hardwood should not be installed parallel to the joists.

Where is the leveling process?

I was wondering if you could step back further from the camera, and tilt up more? I think it would feel more natural.

Thank you for all the advice. Now how do I show this to the guys who are going to install my floors and not insult them?

@mlconnors6117

5 жыл бұрын

It’s your money and they are working for you. If they don’t like it find someone else who can accept constructive criticism.

How the heck would you leave 1 1/4" on both sides? Base is usually 1/2" thick. And quarter round looks terrible but if you had to use it it's still not wide enough

@aboden69

5 жыл бұрын

He told you, you have to cut the dry wall so that the expansion can continue into the wall, and then you are able to reinstall existing baseboard without worry.

I am a homeowner with a day job who does not do anything construction related for a living. That being said I am working on framing out my basement and Bought this kzread.infoUgkxHQsUrwNr5GQrnx9V4xDdUr56qxwuiBHt gun. I have done a few walls already, have probably shot a couple hundred nails through this thing and have yet to have a misfire. It works awesome, good depth on every nail if you have your compressor set right. My literal only complaint is that it is a bit heavy and my arm can get a little tired especially whrn I am nailing at odd angles. That being said I am super happy with it and would buy it again. Hoping the old girl allows me to get my whole basement finished out!

what is the guage of the brad nailer you used .?

@justinhc123

7 жыл бұрын

PBS #007 16 gauge

@PBS-nm1uu

7 жыл бұрын

thanks

Hi. Do you guys just sell flooring, or do you also install? I live in Austin, Texas, and I want someone like you to install my floor. I recently interviewed a contractor and he didn’t want to start in the center of one of my big rooms, which is not a perfect square. He said “it’s easier and faster” to start at the edge and that “it won’t be noticeable.” Another contractor said I didn’t have to undercut the door jambs and casings because it “wouldn’t be noticeable” if I didn’t. I have no confidence in these guys and I don’t want them touching my floors.

@michaelbacile8439

4 жыл бұрын

It’s not absolutely necessary to start in the middle of a room. If your contractor measured the room and it is square, he is right that it will be easier and faster (also come out with the same product in the end). Only time I’ve ever started rooms in the center is if a home is wayyy out of square. (Speaking with 10 years experience)

@michaelbacile8439

4 жыл бұрын

I defiantly wouldn’t accept them cutting around door jambs instead of undercutting though

How exactly does starting in the center of the room "cut down the movement of the wood"? Calling B.S. on that statement. It can't be cut down that way and all the staples are now applying pressure toward that center, which could cause problems. You can, and pro's do, split the difference even when starting at an edge. Pro's also always undercut jambs and usually the drywall if it's not "held up" already. Why face nail the vent frame? Grove it with a router (or table saw) and the flooring where it doesn't have a tongue and spline it (most come with a groove). When using a floor jack, your scrap brace should span to the studs on either side to greatly reduce the chance of damaging the drywall. Lastly if you are going to start in the center of the room, you should be able to figure it out so you don't end up with less than half the width of you flooring face next to either wall.

@markfothebeast

3 жыл бұрын

Solid wood expands towards the tongue.

EMPIRE PUT WOOD FLOORING IN OUR HOME AND DID NOT PUT ANY TYPE OF PAPER OR PADDING JUST THE WOOD WE CHOOSE FOR THE FLOOR

I am about to install, the new floor has zero percent moisture while subfloor has 7%... help!

@SolosHold

7 жыл бұрын

lol, I love how a whole floor can move 800 thousandths, even though everything is nailed. Something in that idea blows my mind.

@Recovery12Life

6 жыл бұрын

Solos Hold build a table top from solid wood, attach it to the apron with nails or screws on all four sides, sit back and wait for the seasons to change and that top will rip appart those aprons. and thats just a couple feet, multiply that movement by 20 ft. wood moves, leave a gap.

Staples floor to subfloor with 10,000 staples. Says "absolutely don't" glue boards down so floor can move. [I'm so confused. Is this legit somehow?]

@guineapig55555

4 жыл бұрын

metal staples will bend and migrate over time; construction glue not so much

@idontthinkso666

4 жыл бұрын

OMG, no, it's not about the staples bending, or anything else. People, do your research. T&G flooring is nailed down on ONLY ONE SIDE! Each board expands/contracts more or less in unison with the adjacent boards, and the T&G detail allows the floor to maintain its integrity. Carpenters have been using T&G joinery for centuries, but now You Tube brings it to the masses and they think it is black magic.

How floor expands if it was nailed? Then it should move nail away from its place for an inch for examle.

@truhunk1

4 жыл бұрын

Yes, I was wondering the same thing.

@TonyB851

3 жыл бұрын

The entire subfloor expands and contracts. It's not so much just that each individual board expands, but rather the subfloor expands with the boards attached, sort of 3 dimensionally. That's what I was told, at least ...

Why not just start at a wall? That room is not that big. I run string(neon pink or a lime green) that way everyone can see it. Chalk, sometimes someone missed the mark and you have to do another line, waste of time to me. String is dead on all the time. Then I can measure to the front of the line or the back but never the center. I was never taught to use a backer board. If we ever started in the middle we always put the first board down, added spline and toenail or sewing(on joists) as the old guys like me call it. Always glue board to board when turning floor around, otherwise it will gap. Did your installer top nail that vent? When installing vent, use the same board on both sides of vent so it looks perfect. When I finish up, I still hand nail on joist. I takes a little longer but will hold a lot longer. Good luck.

Relative humidity needs to be 35 + 50

I don't see 1/2 inch expansion gaps anywhere. Those gaps should be on every wall. The wood by the floor vent was butted up against the wall for the most part.

I can't get over your company name.

@jasonrich4664

5 жыл бұрын

😂

@jamesbond5423

5 жыл бұрын

Gay used to mean happy...funny how they keep making everything that was good bad huh? Then we have people like you who know nothing and have no iq so you believe everything your taught. Explains why this world is the way it is

@scannon90

5 жыл бұрын

That’s enough, Beavis.

Brad nailing for hardwood flooring? Never. You have to use at least 16 gauges finish gun , I personally use 15 gauges angled Hitachi finish gun, and never without glue/adhesive .

@guineapig55555

Жыл бұрын

aren't finish nails way too weak for hardwood?

@gabeo.731

Жыл бұрын

@@guineapig55555 Finish nails only for start and finish, or wherever the stapler gun cannot fit.

I would also add that gluing to the subfloor and NOT gluing the tongue and groove would make more sense. You are arguing in favor of panelizing the floor. You want each gap between board to be the location where the wood can expand/contract. Gluing to the sub does mean you need flexible glue, and the tongue/groove joint should explicitly NOT be glued.

A

2:20 I'm sorry, what!? How do you reason that the location where one starts the install is the only place where the wood is restricted from movement, and the rest of the floor moves as giant panelized unit? Makes absolutely no sense.

not really a concern if you live in non humid area.

Why on God's green earth did you not rack the floor ahead of you? You grabbed one board at a time? 😱😱😱😱

bullshit regarding expansion of nailed down floor. If it is installed properly - there is no movement at all. Metal cleats every 3 inches hold board so tight , so it is even impossible to move it in a fraction of inch even if you hit it with mallet. Expansion gap is required only for floating floors like laminate , cork etc. Every single video on youtube says leave expansion gap 3/4, 1/2 , 1 in etc. Its bullshit.

@Gaylordhardwoodflooring

6 жыл бұрын

It sounds like your experience with wood is limited. We've seen wood flooring expand enough to move exterior walls. If every single video on youtube says to leave an expansion gap and you are the only one disputing it, you might want to re-consider and educate yourself a little bit more. We have some excellent information on wood movement on our website: www.gaylordhardwoodflooring.com

@Recovery12Life

6 жыл бұрын

Gaylord Hardwood Flooring I dont understand how so many people question the gap requirements. its true that the recomended wall gaps are worst case and most wont need exactly that much but better safe than sorry. wood DOES move seasonaly and nails dont stop it. these floors are meant to last as long as the house stands, be sanded multiple times and refinished, why risk problems, just leave a gap.

Umm btw 50% of that is not needed One that set off the red flag was leaving a 1 1/4 gap it does not need that much space And I come from a flooring family and it’s just a longer and more expensive if you did it the the cheaper way it would the same I would not recommend this way

Good video but the company's name i had to laugh at...

Ok, so identifying and rectifying major humidity issues could be anywhere from $1000 to $50,000. So you kind of buried what was your paraphrased most Important issue into one sentence.

GAYLORD? couldn't get a better name ............ like seriously who names a company like that .....lol must be a gaylord

@foreveryours7705

5 жыл бұрын

lmao

Backer board waste of time