Support d4a: driving-4-answers-shop.fourthwall.com/ Motivation: kzread.info/dron/t3YSIPcvJsYbwGCDLNiIKA.html This is the liquid polyurethane I used: amzn.to/2VPPayY This is the pigment for coloring the polyurethane that I used: amzn.to/36X81ww Watch the follow-up video: kzread.info/dash/bejne/n3aNysaFo7TXpco.html To skip the intro where I explain everything you need to know about poly mounts go to 4:00 where I start taking out the old ones and pouring new ones in. I am not in any way sponsored, endorsed, supported, etc. by this company. This info is also in the video description but no one reads that apparently :) There's a lot more good options in terms of liquid urethane out there probably, but this one worked really well for me and bonded itself to the metal mount very well.

@autoshamanmechanic8182

7 жыл бұрын

привет все хорошо. когда заводишь двигатель или глушишь происходит детонация двиготеля.тош то инженеры придумали много лет назат это правелные подушки двиготеля.то што ты показал это не провелно.идинствена с твоим изопритением можна времино ездить пока олиминь не лопнит. я этод экспиремент уже пробул. и я не вы ложыл это видео YotTude, пристав кагда машына троит толко двиготел дрибежыт, а если сделать по твоему технологие то двиготел будет валяца но земле,и очень часто будеш обрашяца до сваршиков чтобы они варили тваю машыну. я этот эксперемент уже делол.Удачи тибе .Я Руский

@n7195

7 жыл бұрын

can u straight to the point please ??

@MrRahimhosein

7 жыл бұрын

Tycoolerz Yet no kidding. So much fucking useless talking

@SKPlaysMC

7 жыл бұрын

driving 4 answers iiiy

@nodierpoveda298

6 жыл бұрын

driving 4 answers

As someone trained in low pressure (hand) polyurethane injection moulding, I would suggest a silicone gun and getting some empty tubes. You can fill the tubes with the polyurethane, pop a cap on the end, put in the gun, and squeeze any bubbles out. After mixing, if you have a vacuum chamber, it helps to pull a vacuum on the material too. Once air has been pushed out the nozzle end of the tube, you should endevour to keep the tube NOZZLE DOWN, to trap any air near the cap/plunger end, and not in the nozzle (to avoid injecting it). A heatgun can be used on most material to pop air bubbles that rise to the surface, and heat can be used to accelerate the curing process. Polyurethane will take up to 28 days to 100% cure, and it will gradually get harder over a longer period of time, but it depends on the pre-polymer and the crosslink compound used! Bare in mind, a lot of crosslink compounds and pre-polymers are carcinogenic, wear gloves at a bare minimum with the material, but I would advise a respirator. Methyl-Ethyl Ketone (MEK) or Acetone can be used to remove polyurethane too (Even when set), however, i caution against using it on where you want to keep it because it can make material swell over time. --------- Experience: Producing equipment, cables, joints & connectors from polyurethane for offshore marine, military and survey industries, with my mouldings tested to depths of up to 6000m.

@S.ASmith

2 жыл бұрын

@Snowman88 if you want to melt your fuel lines, yes you can do that. MEK is more aggressive than acetone haha

@S.ASmith

2 жыл бұрын

@Snowman88 Knowledge is a gift to humanity, sharing it with others is the best thing we can do in life.

@trulyblessed8767

Жыл бұрын

You need to start your own business rebuilding motor mounts. I have a geo storm can't find them anywhere

@S.ASmith

Жыл бұрын

@@trulyblessed8767 I could do, but it'd be mail order and I'd need to get a few hundred £££ worth of stuff first. Vacuum chamber is a must really, tubes are cheap, as is a silicone gun. I have MEK and Acetone from doing some paintwork a while ago (few litres of each) You ideally need a jig and a work bench as well, or a hot plate. I'd need some aluminium plate and silicone release spray to sit the engine mounts or bushings on with some way to locate any centre pins or bolt holes. Far from impossible and I might just do it, quite a saturated market though unfortunately.

@orlandoemanoel2409

6 ай бұрын

Nice! I have recently searching how to do some cables connectors waterproof to oceanography equipments to my college's work.

Just a quick tip about getting the pin out! If you just focus the flame on the metal pin it gets super hot and then you can use pliers to get it to pull right out from the rubber.

@TurboRetard

3 жыл бұрын

Awesome tip thanks man!

@leolldankology

3 жыл бұрын

This makes the metal brittle.

@milandjuric8043

3 жыл бұрын

@@leolldankology That depends on the composition and heat treat, if its low carbon, something like less than 0.3%, there should be no problems

@chronicblazer84

3 жыл бұрын

@@milandjuric8043 and you know the composition because you have a technical drawing from the original manufacture? Should be alright is a pretty big term, especially when you don't have this information readily available.

@atomsk1646

3 жыл бұрын

@@chronicblazer84 f it man just try what works if it works.

Everyone did this in the nissan community years ago glad to see people still using it with success

@LeglessWonder

3 жыл бұрын

I knew of a lot of DSM guys doing it too. Haven't seen it done in forever tho. Prices back then were so much higher

@LegitimentPie

3 жыл бұрын

I'm doing this for my 2005 1.8l stick shift sentra lmao, can't wait for these things to cure

@DiegoAstudillo193

3 жыл бұрын

Exactly! This was a must

@MrCoolvibeztv8079

3 жыл бұрын

I did it on my bmw 8 years ago and they lasted until I sold it ..💯

@edwardfletcher7790

Ай бұрын

​​@@LegitimentPieAre the mounts still holding up ?

What you really want to see starts at 6:35..............you are welcome!!!

@d4a

7 жыл бұрын

You're right. I'm going to put an annotation.

@natesforge

5 жыл бұрын

mvp

@user-gn1bx4rq9u

5 жыл бұрын

TQ bro

@blackonblack...9244

5 жыл бұрын

@@d4a To me the entire video was very informative from start to finish. Can aftermarket shops perform these DIYs on a car? I'm just wondering because I think I have two that failed on me since the Dealership had to replace my motor for legit warranty work. I've been thinking about getting them all replaced.

@MrMaxitaple

5 жыл бұрын

God bless u

Why am I watching this. I don't even have a car.

@BPoweredLove

4 жыл бұрын

Why am I watching this? I don't even know what a car is.

@GTSTWINCAM16

4 жыл бұрын

pvc LMAO!!!!!

@kynkai

4 жыл бұрын

Why am I watching this? I don't even have any electronic devices to watch this on.

@kentduggan8626

4 жыл бұрын

I think I know someone that saw an object one time

@TheNewyorican69

4 жыл бұрын

PVC let me guess why you don’t have a car because you got caught drinking and driving And the police impounded your car 😂

You've really come a long ways since these old times! I appreciate the upgrade in audio and video equipment. Lol.

I did this 20 years ago on my '89 Civic Si. I made the engine mounts solid with 50a polyurethane. The increase in felt harshness and vibration from the engine was tremendous. It was for a race car, so I didn't mind. If you are doing this on a street car, your passengers will hate it. I imagine drilling holes to emulate the shape of the original mounts would have reduced the vibration, but it was a race car, so I just left it in torture mode.

@luc1f3r0_mf7

8 ай бұрын

Batman: WHERE ARE THEY? Joker:… Batman: Get the ‘89 Civic

Best to use a degassing chamber (which can be homebuilt) and a large plastic graduated paint tub (Home Depot, Lowes, Menards) as opposed to a paint rolling pan liner. Makes pouring a hell of a lot easier. I've used Smooth-On for several years for many things, from replacement parts mold casting to original castings to fillers, as is here. To make the pour "pretty", get a melamine board instead of cardboard and hot glue the part to it. No run out. No sticking. Easy parting. And if you want a profile to the poly, create it with modeling clay in the bottom of the casing. If your originals had a profile in the rubber, you could even cast it with this poly to place inside the case by simply using talc as the parting agent. You might even be able to extract the pin from the original rubber with a homemade electromagnetic coil to heat the pin but not the rubber. The pin gets hot, the rubber around the pin melts and allows the pin to slip out with a pair of pliers. Then, just slice up the remaining rubber into sections with a coping saw and peel it out. Safer and legal, since burning rubber is both a health danger and illegal in the US. Just be sure to re-temper the pin afterwards. Videos for each of these steps exist on KZread - some in multiples.

how is it holding up?

A vacuum-box will help you to get the airbubbles out of the liquid PU! We use it almost every day and the results are absolutely great.

@FredLarracuente

3 жыл бұрын

Correct. Another option is to use a lower-viscosity PU. The lower the viscosity, the easier the bubbles will rise to the top and out of the PU.

@budgreen4x4

3 жыл бұрын

Correct. Stock ones are pressed while heated under vacuum in a mold. Much better than the pour in.. longer lasting too

Wow! Inspirational, and very useful DIY for rare expensive mounts. Thank you for this! Will try making one for my '97 Acura CL 3.0 right side mount.

Quick tip on removing the rubber. If you drill a series of holes around the center it makes for a lot less rubber to burn. Also it allows the flame to penetrate through the bushing rubber. That method has the added effect of directing a lot of the fumes coming off the rubber to move away from the guy holding the torch.

It would be a very good Idea to use a Dremel with a cutoff wheel to cut small grooves around the center sleeve and inside the large outer ring to help create a stronger bond to the polyurethane.

@d4a

7 жыл бұрын

+electronicsNmore That's a good idea. The mounts are still going strong, but I'm sure that if anything fails it will be the bond between the center sleeve and the poly. It would probably be a good idea to roughen up the center sleeve outer surface as much as possible.

@electronicsNmore

7 жыл бұрын

driving 4 answers It was a great video. :-)

@S.ASmith

3 жыл бұрын

It would be btter to use a proper metal-polyurethane primer. Clean the surface of the matal with MEK or Acetone, use some MEK to water down a little primer, apply with a small artist brush in a very thin layer, leave it 20-60 minutes to set, then pour or inject your material. I recommend using same method STR/Seacon/Subconn etc use for moulding cables or joints and equipment, ie: a empty tube + nozzle + cap, with a silicone gun. It allows you to push the air out of the nozzle end prior to injection. Not only this, but vacuuming the material down for a minute to remove air bubbles also helps. It depends on the material though (ie: pre-polymer and crosslink).

@Slava870909

2 жыл бұрын

@@d4a Hello, 4 years have passed, please tell us how these elements look now !. It will be great to see after all this time. Please.

@greggv8

2 жыл бұрын

@@d4a Smooth-On sells a product they call Ure-Bond to help their urethane rubbers stick better.

LOL, I have been enjoying your Iconic Engines series and this popped up in my feed. I watched this video when it first came out! You've come a long way.

@nate2529

4 жыл бұрын

Same here. I realized that I had watches this video years ago without even realizing it was him. So much has changed! Lol

@jameswwchong

4 жыл бұрын

Me too!!! You didn’t used to smile... now you do!! Great!!

Amazing guide! You're awesome bro! I'm so glad you went into the details about stiffness and shared the product you used.

@d4a

7 жыл бұрын

Road Worthy Thank you. It makes me really happy when people find it useful :)

Wow I never thought of chucking up a wire brush in a drill press. That's brilliant.

@alfredomarquez9777

7 жыл бұрын

There are some rubber drums that hold sandpaper rings, that placed on a drillstand work beautifully too.

@cultusmechanicus8001

7 жыл бұрын

Just dont do it like him NEVER wirebrush with a drillpress and wear Rubber gloves.....NEVER Benn there, Done That .......it fucking Hurts when it grabs the rubber ;)

THANKS!!! Just today I was wondering how I was going to make the bushings for a custom 4-point trailing axle suspension for a 5 ton baja truck...Now I know how!! GREAT JOB!!!

@edwardfletcher7790

Ай бұрын

How did the DIY bushings go ?

Thanks for this video. I have a 1996 Riviera with a bad motor mount that is impossible to replace. They simply are not available, and even the used ones from salvage yards are all so old that the rubber is gone. But repairing my motor mount using this method sounds like just the thing I need to do. Thanks again.

Brilliant idea , I can't count how many mounts I have bought in the past few years. Track racing is never forgiving . Get a mix up several different hardness and compress it into tubes , hopefully enough of waxing on the inside diameter will allow me to push out the blank so we can be cut to size and shaped on the lathe and mill. Again brilliant idea and many thanks .

This is so clever! I may do this for my transmission mount which has become hard to find.

@edwardfletcher7790

Ай бұрын

How did it go ?

A plastic tomato sauce bottle with a pouring tip is a great container that gives much better control of the flow of liquids. The tip allows you to pour into small, precise places, and you just don't get the product spillage seen here. The easiest way to remove old mounts is to burn them on an outdoor wood fired bbq without trying to remove them from the OME bracket. Once all rubber is gone, the outer sleeves of the OME push in mounts can then be cut once with a reciprocal saw & twisted free easily. Plastic bagging or pallet wrap serves as a great release surface to avoid cardboard hang up! Maybe a better way than using cardboard to local centre sleeves is to 12mm chipboard. Three nails will locate the outer rim, then put the centre piece where it needs to be (offset or not offset), and drill a hole through the centre so you can fit a bolt to the chipboard & hold it in place firmly with a nut. Common floor wax is a great release agent I use all the time in fiberglassing along with PVA release, so I'm also keen to try them when i attempt this manufacturing myself.

@d4a

6 жыл бұрын

WJP004 Great tips!

Great idea and demo video, thanks for sharing. I like that I saw this BEFORE I did my engine swap not after!

Badass! Best DIY ive seen in years!!! Youre awesome! Thanks!

Good afternoon, my friend, congratulations for this important tutorial .. I appreciate all the information you can give me to learn how to do that work ..

Awesome! Job. Keep it up and keep posting

Awesome idea for engine mounts. This product would work great on old machines that have components that have deteriorated over time. Great idea!

Very informative and instructive. Gave me some great resource ideas.

Reminds me of the quick fix for one of the cars I owned. Punch the center through a hockey puck. Worked better than an OEM replacement. Lasted 100k miles. Was impressed.

@woozhi9218

4 жыл бұрын

Lower arm or engine mount

@der_pinguin44

4 жыл бұрын

@@woozhi9218 engine.

That was totally cool. Had no idea you could do this.

@d4a

7 жыл бұрын

Thanks. Glad you like it.

wow ! you just helped me fix something that I made a long time ago thank you. Thank you ! I love it when a plan comes together thank you

I worked in a prototype shop and we had a job to make some custom urethane wheels. We had a metal insert placed in a mold. The insert had areal rough surface making it better for bonding. Plus I believe we had a primer to put on metal to help in bonding, anything you didn't want the urethane to stick to (the outside of the mold) had mold release.

This is some great insight, i love it. definitely will try it..

My Mazdaspeed 3 has three engine mounts: the rear motor mount (down low, between the transmission and the subframe), the passenger motor mount (up high on the left side of the passenger's side of the engine bay, between that side of the engine and the longitudinal frame rail there, and the transmission motor mount, about halfway down the height of the engine, under the battery box). The mounts are designed to run OTS Energy Suspension polyurethane bushings, for easy replacement, if necessary. I will say thins: a major contributing factor of NVH is the orientation/loading of the bushing itself. All of my bushings are in the 80+ duro range, and it does add some vibes, but I'm putting down 385/380 @ the wheels, so the performance boost of having the engine very solidly mounted is worth it to me, especially with an eye toward occasionally tracking. Great vid, BTW.

@NGinuity

7 жыл бұрын

That's good to know about the Speed 3. I have a regular 3 and swapped the terrible oil filled mounts for 80 duro poly mounts. It drove me nuts and they didn't stay long.

This is insane! How have I not heard of this before?!

Excellent filming, editing, lighting--everything! Once of the best DIY vids. Cool!

@d4a

7 жыл бұрын

davecc0000 Thank you for your kind words and support, it means a lot.

If you add dye to only one part before mixing, you'll have a better visual on when the product is completely mixed.

If you want to get the air bubbles out, you take your mini torch and pass the flame over it right after you pour it. I was a polymer tech for quite a while. Also, it helps if you heat the mount first as well.

I replaced my worn out rubber mount with P.V.A. polyvinyl adhesive, used for bonding glazed ceramic and vinyl asbestos tiles.I was impressed by the excellent stiffness and great results.

Never thought about repouring mounts. ir, actually msking new custom mounts for a new project. thank you for a nice introduction to this!

stack wood under the mount before removing or damaging the rubber. start with the lowest point and use a hammer to imprint the wood. drill the hole for the shaft then stamp the mount surround. insert bolts into the holes in the vertical position, stamp and drill them as well. then remove rubber and insert back into template. then pour mold.

Thanks for the video and help👍

Great video! Thanks for the info, I will be using this in the future.

Perfect low cost DIY solution! Love this idea! We just replaced the motor mounts in my son's 69 Bronco, not sure this would have worked for that but I could picture making body bushings and linkage bushings using this method as well?! Thanks for the video!

@d4a

7 жыл бұрын

Griffin Benchmark Thanks for watching, glad you liked it. I'm sure it would have worked fine for the Bronco too, as long as the mold isn't some super complex shape that is impossible to pour. Haven't tried suspension and other bushings yet, but lots of other people suggested it and said they would give it a go. In theory it should work, but I'll have to give it a try myself before I can be sure.

I did the same thing , but I used Polyurethane caulk / sealant . About $8 a tube. Probably not as good , plenty of air bubbles? but was very strong also. You have to be extremely accurate in measuring and keeping the inner bushing in place. Otherwise bolting into the car will not work. Nice job!

Thanks to this guy I am saving $1000 on motor mounts

@edwardfletcher7790

Ай бұрын

How did your mounts go mate ?

Thanks for your time and effort making this video.

awesome video. definatly gonna try this on my truck

Nice one, ill try this on the rally car, those powerflex rubbers cost a fortune, great idea.

Excellent idea. Thanks for sharing!

@d4a

7 жыл бұрын

Thanks. Glad you like it.

Fantastic keep videos coming...im sick of being ripped off by companies,suppliers of performance parts and garages it just goes to shows if you have dedication,will,time and knowledge you can do anything at home...thankyou

@d4a

7 жыл бұрын

Glad you liked it!

Excellent Tutorial Buddy, I shall do this on my golf

@davidhinson7882

5 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the tip on the use of Reoflex 60 . I found reoflex 40& to on Amazon. Where did you obtain the 60 grade

These videos are good bro!! Keep them coming!!

@d4a

8 жыл бұрын

Thank you. Will do :)

Ingenious brother don't let the naysayers get to you here you're idea is sound and I'll be doing my upper ford mount this weekend to see how it works out. Thanks

@d4a

7 жыл бұрын

+Victor Borg Thank you for your support. Glad you like the vid.

OUTSTANDING video! Many thanks.

Great video,. Will help a lot of people!

If you have a thick metal engine mount, you can drill some holes into the thick areas from the area where the rubber was, so there are areas where the polyurethane can hook into, preventing spinning and sliding even further beyond coarse sanding. Also, if you can get just the rubber out, you may be able to coat it in fiberglass (in a manner that allows you to pull the rubber back out) to make a reusable mold.

@justin3102

6 жыл бұрын

@

@autobarn234

6 жыл бұрын

This is great!

@3dmixer552

5 жыл бұрын

genius.

@LuisCastillo-wz2ij

5 жыл бұрын

.

Awesome! I'll have to do this at some point. Good work sir.

@d4a

7 жыл бұрын

Thanks, I'm glad you liked it.

@MrTheHillfolk

4 жыл бұрын

Did you try it yet

Wow they look great. Good job!

Excellent instructional video. Great job.

If possible, when removing the original pressed in rubber inner bush, to weaken the pressed in steel mount's press fit in the outer casing, rather than attack it with the hammer and pointed chisel/drift, to collapse it, if there is a gap in the rubber big enough to get a hacksaw blade in you could VERY carefully saw thru the inner sleeve taking care not to saw into the outer part, then it should come out easily. just an idea:-) thanks for the idea and taking the time to post a video, friend!

@peggenlejoncar9529

3 жыл бұрын

Yes and if burn rubber not fingers or hands it,its very poison for body.

@GraceEngineering

2 жыл бұрын

One could also use a Dremel rotary tool to get into the bushing with a but more precision. I prefer to use a tungsten carbide bit that will actually cut a hacksaw blade in half.

Mate that was awesome. Well made video and very informative.

you did good work and for the price is a good opportunity of learning something new!!! congratulations!!!

@d4a

7 жыл бұрын

Thank you!

thanks, very informative. good detail.

I have to say next time I need a carrier bearing insulator for a drive line I'm going to do this. New carrier bearings are $185 up to over $1000 if you can even get one it's in my experience almost always the rubber insulator that rots and not the bearing. In my old Datsun I would of had to get a new driveline made to get a carrier bearing. So I cut up a mudflap and wrapped the carrier bearing every couple years I had to rewrap it . But this man im going to try it.

@ModelLights

5 жыл бұрын

Just FYI, a lot of the drivelines are based on a Subaru drive line from the mid to late 90s or early 2000s, and licensed from Subaru. I had a 2005 Cadillac SRX with such a driveline, and the part was costly. But the CTS part was $35, and had the same inner rubber spider and bearing, only had to dismount the outer mount from the old part, and put in the new bearing and isolator into it. Worked perfectly and far less money. Anyone encountering these should see if there's another cheaper model car or even this CTS part that will work (since many are also licensed from Subaru and the same part and bearing design), and simply replace the isolator and bearing, your old outer ring and mounting tabs are probably not damaged at all.

It's so nice to watch a video right after you've bought all factory parts for a car and driving it ;-((((((((((((((((((((((((((

Nice How To. Thanks for sharing!

Well done! You have the spirit of the old hot rodders, using creativity and imagination to achieve results.

@d4a

7 жыл бұрын

Thank you! I really appreciate your comment.

I would highly recommend doing this in a well ventilated area and wearing gloves and a respirator. I work with PU (polyurethane) on a daily basis as a mold maker and this stuff can make you really sick! DO NOT USE this in your living room! Aside from that, Smooth-On makes some great products for prototyping, I use them daily! +1 If you have access to a vacuum pot, you can degas the urethane prior to pouring. This will get rid of any unwanted air bubbles. Also, most polyurethane rubber compounds can be post-cured in a scientific oven to reach optimal mechanical properties. Cheers!

@nuxboxen

2 жыл бұрын

Guys take heed... look up isocyanates both burning and mixing polyurethane is no joke. I've talked with painters who've been exposed and it's not fun whatsoever.

For those talking about compressing the polymer to reduce the size of the air bubbles, you could probably get a similar benefit by just putting the mixed liquid in a vacuum press before pouring. It's similar to what you'd do with any epoxy/composites when you're going to have the final product visible. Putting the mixed epoxy under vacuum removes the air bubbles that make the epoxy visible and potentially less durable

@JunkCCCP

5 жыл бұрын

@Michael Hensley That's not a good reasoning. Air bubbles introduce inconsistencies and if there are a lot of them, they greatly weaken the final product. If you need more absorbtion, you just use a softer Shore hardness polyurethane (40A instead of 60A like the guy here used).

Thanks for making this! I am finally getting around to getting new tires and sway bar links for my AW11, and this will help me a lot when I get to fabricating some new motor mounts.

@d4a

7 жыл бұрын

Long time no see :) Glad you like it.

I had no idea you made this video, I saw this video like 4 years ago, and then subscribed like 2 or 3 years ago lol

I feel like a wax paper on the cardboard would probably release easier

@briancolvin6554

3 жыл бұрын

That's what I was thinking. 👍

thanks a lot for sharing your idea. what kind of product u use. and where I can get it ?? the mix I mean

Nice job, love the do it yourself idea of this, even if it is for hard to get parts.

excellent tutorial. thank you I have learn a lot

Actually contrary to many comments about the "bonded in" nature of the pin and outer ring to the urethane, I believe here what he has suggested, is the best of both worlds. The STOCK RUBBER ones are around Shore 40A to 50A but the Urethane can similarly be purchase to Shore 40A or 50A or 60A or very soft Shore 10A or very much harder in the higher Shore D scale. The comparison is urethane compared to rubber have slightly different absorption of vibration and slightly less stress defection for similar Shore hardness. This has to do with modulus of elasticity. If you pick a urethane similar to the original rubber bushing the stress defection would be similar with a softer, i.e. more energy absorbing, urethane bushing as the urethane has a higher modulus of elasticity and less stress deflection all things equal. As urethane is basically both higher tensile, and compressive strength for a particular hardness its going to absorb more energy so deflection will be less, and the internal stresses will be higher. So the idea of going harder is bad as it increases shock loading with high resulting internal stresses. This leads to reduced life and compression set unless carefully engineered, just like rubber bushings. But urethane is an engineered chemical whereas rubber is made like making a cake from a combination of materials coming together to form a unified whole, heavily dependent on processing the same. Still don't push it if you don't want to crumble your bushings be careful. You may have better engineered material but you don't want push it too far or it will deteriorate just as bad or worse than rubber. The difference is rubber will gradually give up whereas urethane will all of a sudden give up. He is on the right track not to allow sliding movement and accomplish suspension normal deflections with deflection of the urethane like is done with rubber bushes. Auto suspension engineers have a 100 years of experience and mass use to back them up with the bonded in flexible rubber bushes technology. The urethane applied the same way is a change of material not basic design... so the man here is right to build his bushes as he does.

@mqbitsko25

5 жыл бұрын

So in other words if you choose a shore hardness of polyurethane that's the same as the original rubber the urethane will dampen vibrations more effectively? Seems like that would be the right way to go, rather than using a harder material. Start there and work your way up if necessary.

@radonvon3120

4 жыл бұрын

Kimball Scarr good advice I was wondering about that

I left some of the original rubber in so it was more PU reinforced rubber. Worked very well.

@d4a

7 жыл бұрын

That is a good idea. If you leave the original rubber in you don't have to measure anything and the results are almost identical. I wanted 100% poly for the sake of showing you can DIY the same thing that's being sold for a lot more $$$.

Wow, watched this video years ago and I just subscribed to you with notifications because of your newer content.

Very informative, good detail

Super brillant idea! 😉

@josegilgarciagarcia7339

5 жыл бұрын

Disculpa amigo me podrías comentar de conque nombre consigo las resinas en México?

@josegilgarciagarcia7339

4 жыл бұрын

Saludos juppausrmpott

You sir, are an Epic hero!! thank you for sharing this..

@d4a

7 жыл бұрын

My pleasure. Thanks for watching!

Fantastic info. Brilliant approach

Enjoyed watching... something i'd like to try for sure

the whole measuring and offsetting the pins is sketchy to me so if i were to do this i would just pour the poly in the motor mount with the old insert in there already, maybe drill holes or cut out some of the old stuff

@BlueRice

4 жыл бұрын

thats what i do. few years ago. all i did was replace the liquid with 3M rubber. the one you used to seal restroom or wood. it was too rough for my taste and i brought oem mounts.

@bgee461

3 жыл бұрын

I suspect the offset isn't by design, it's the old rubber having collapsed and now he's transferred that 'collapse' into his new mounts.

So how are the engine mounts holding up and how are they performing overall?

@HunterSydenhamRacing

2 жыл бұрын

He made a follow up video, im sure you could find it with a search around

Amazing work! Thanks fornsharing this! Ill be doing this fornmy mini vtec conversion!

I've discovered this channel yesterday and already love it, i'm into car too!

@d4a

7 жыл бұрын

Thanks! Glad you like it. More stuff is coming.

@adammieysa6520

4 жыл бұрын

Tdl

I used a vibrating plate to settle air bubbles. Amazing how much air traps

@jamesnesfield7288

7 жыл бұрын

did this work?

Clean the mount with denatured alcohol, use masking tape to make sure you don't run everywhere and fill the voids in the rubber mount with windshield adhesive. Works just as well, quicker, cheaper, easier.

@James-ns6jm

5 жыл бұрын

i was think what if he just filled in the rubber cavity with the polyurethane instead. Should give a much stiffer ride. less engine movement, not quite as much as pure polyurethane mounts but just as good. And most likely wont vibrate when idling.

Great idea Thank you so much for sharing this.. Eternally grateful 🙏

Like the tip about the coloring of choosing, thanks for the heads up

A standard rubber bushing is designed to flex and twist when needed to, hence why the rubber is attached to the outer ring and the central pin. Doing what you have done, basically fixing it with a solid lump of Polyurethane, will not allow the same degrees of movement and could possibly damage the Poly bushing. What I am trying to say is when you bolt up the centre of the mount it will have no movement, where as a 'Bought' Poly bushing has the pin in the centre removed/not attached so that the bushing can rotate easier. That is what the gaps in the original bushing are for, twisting movement. When you tighten the bolt in the centre of your fixed mounts, it will tighten everything and you will have NO twisting movement and a very short bushing life. When you change a wishbone bushing or whole wishbone, the car should be settled at ride height before tightening the mounts, so that everything is straight and allows for the proper twisting/movement of the bushing. 15 years of Mechanical Engineering has proven this to me many times. If you want to do this properly you need to pour the Poly without the centre pin, then drill out the hole required and grease the pin so it has rotation. Good idea tho, might try it one day :)

@downunderdan5132

7 жыл бұрын

TheFrowningLizard that's true. It's how most OEM and aftermarket bushes are supplied. As you say the pins should pivot and be lubricated. It's a good start in DIY though 🤔😊

@oldowl4290

6 жыл бұрын

By "wishbone" I assume you mean Control Arm bushings. Most engine mounts, especially ones that are oriented vertically do not require the same amount of flexing as a control arm. Regardless, what if you were to first lightly grease the pin with say a very thin coat of something like Vaseline. If wiped off enough to leave an extremely thin coat I assume you would be able to easily remove the pin once the poly has cured and then reinsert it again with whatever proper bushing grease such as silicone grease (which you didn't specify). You could also do this with a few other smaller pins in the middle ring of the poly to create 4 to 6 added holes for flexing. I think doing these two things would take this DIY mod as far as it can go.

@alonzorottmann5706

6 жыл бұрын

you must not know much about high performance mounts. polyurethane IS the material that high energy mounts are made of. they are the "flexible " version of solid metal mounts. if you are applying any HP to them the poly will be much better feeling that that sloppy rubber. Even OEM mounts for my Ram are hard to find and one is over $300. this is actually an extremely good idea.

@vincevegacustoms754

6 жыл бұрын

TheFrowningLizard this is how poly bushings are made,they just vacuum mold them,but this is the material they use,you can select diff hardness to get the movement you need without causing to much vibrations...next step after this is solid aluminium inserts welded on the mount(solid mounts) If the car dont make the required power to run them it will vibrate even more...

@eltostonsito

6 жыл бұрын

@ alonzo rottman. Yep that's how I found this video. Searching for an alternative to the pricey front mounts for my 2007 Dodge Ram 1500. Will be working on the mounts this weekend but more than likely I'll be using the Windo Weld.

Gracias y excelente, como se llaman los dos compuestos quimicos? Saludos desde México.

@jorgepadillavillares8064

4 жыл бұрын

Sera poluretano oh resina epoxica

Great video, might be well timed for me too as I want to redo every mount/bushing on my car.

Great KZread! Thank you for sharing your knowledge and time!

so Great

@d4a

7 жыл бұрын

CARS LOVER Thank you.

Should try wax paper on top of the cardboard, very cool, might have to try this

I'm impressed, i didnt know that this was possible. I'd set it up in a customwood MDF jig & bolt the parts in place, you could also do the holes in the rubber by using long thin bolts with plastic straws around them. I have had one car i could have 'saved' using this idea. & Currently 2 strut arms that need this done. ( Good balljoint @ each end, + worn bush in centre ) Thankyou/m

Thanks man! Right on to my old golf