Amazon links to relevant products (from the description): Flap assemblies (x4) - amzn.to/2d3dawe Manifold gasket - Amazon US: amzn.to/2bV8sLi | Amazon UK: amzn.to/2cpztel J-B Weld epoxy - Amazon US: amzn.to/2HC7RRk | UK: amzn.to/2woHtUC

@kpo42641

5 жыл бұрын

Hello Craig, If you have it could you post the actual Ford part number for the flap assemblies? The part on the link does not have the Ford P/N. I tried to capture it from the video but want to be sure.Thanks KPO.

@nigelb1428

3 жыл бұрын

@@kpo42641 I think it's either 1317276 or 1S7G9Y428AA

@johnnyherring4825

3 жыл бұрын

What yr did they stop using tbese

@zaluq

15 күн бұрын

The flaps , are they a sold pr piece or sold as a set of 4 ?

All your videos are extremely well made, the filming and audio is top notch. Thanks for helping. I’ve done 3 repairs with your videos.

Your content and presentation is on a whole new level. One of the best content creators in my opinion

Sir, you've set the bar high with this video I'm very grateful and equally impressed bravo.

I would like just tell A BIG THANK YOU because you spend so much time creating a such amazing video helping others. Really appreciate it.

Bought a Focus CC last weekend as of the date stamp of my comment... Had it 3 days. Engine light comes on. P2008 faulty code. Intake solenoids were shot. Bought new ones. Solved. However..... I stubbled onto this video when I was investigating the solenoid issue. And boy I'm glad I did. You just saved me a few hundred pounds. Out of curiosity I decided to take a look at the intake manifold. (I had the bonnet open for the solenoids so hey) I think I was very lucky... 2 out of the four flaps were about to fail catastrophically!! Entirely new manifold is on its way. Thank you.

Hi! I did the replacement job at the weekend. - My Mondeo MK3 had about original 183.000 km (2005 2.0 Petrol) - I could hear only a light noise, but the problem was there. - The rod and other parts were undamaged so I've replaced only the 4 flaps. (The flap shafts were damaged) - There was no second screw on my Oil pipe bracket. Removal was not necessary. As a hobby mechanic the whole process took about hard 10 hours! The intake manifold removal is a huge job! (I have renewed all cable clips etc.) Now the engine is quiter, there is no diesel sound. In my opinion this problems comes after 200.000+ km . Thank you very much the video and the instructions!

Thank you so much for making this video. I've noticed this exact noise from my motor for quite a long time and you have supplied me with some valuable information.

Used this vid to remove the flaps. Engine runs great! Excellent instructions, thanks mate!

Thank you so much for this video I recently replaced the pcv valve on a Mazda 5 hoping to reduce the oil consumption and this video with the manifold replacement video was a godsend. The reason why this video was so important is because I removed the swirl flap actuator during removal of the manifold. I then put it back with the swirl flaps closed and thought nothing of it but looking at these videos again I wondered if I had the rod 90 degrees out and the flaps should be open.. Sure enough it was and the actuator wasn't doing anything. Luckily only driven the car a few miles before my conscience got the better of me. Luckily you can remove the actuator whilst the manifold is still on the car. I checked my swirl flaps and they all seemed to be in good condition with minimal movement so I've left them in. Time will tell if that was a good decision or not! Car is a 2010 Mazda 5 with 100k miles on it so about 160k Kms. Thanks again for these videos 🙏

I replaced the thermostat in my 2005 Duratec 2.0 16valve and while at it i removed all the swirl flaps in the manifold with no issues to the running of the engine. It runs perfect. So saved myself a few quid.. I was told to do this by a ford mechanic and he was rite.. Took 3hrs start to finish. Was easier to remove the radiator and that gave full access to everything. Great video..

@mateuszjankowski8918

4 жыл бұрын

Has he blanked hole after flaps bar or just removed it all? Thx Matt

Excellent content. Will definitely consider this reconditioning process if my manifold is worn-out

Thank you for posting these videos really helped me, was a tough job but got it done in the end I went for just removing the flaps entirely 👍

@charlesmcgowan7738

4 жыл бұрын

How did you delete them permanently

@ThEhArDmEnPaTh

3 жыл бұрын

How it runs?

@emersonjosecicerodesa2620

2 жыл бұрын

Bom dia, vc pode me falar onde vc comprou as abas?estou com o mesmo problema aqui no Brasil e não encontro pra comprar

Excellent video. Very Informational and I've already had my own experience with this issue/taken my intake off multiple times. Thank you

It happened to my co-workers car. Local Ford dealer tried to chrage $450 for doing manifold replacement. Very informative video. Great tutorials. Thanks.

Man you are genius, you saved my brain.I was going to be insane cause of this sound, i thought that the problem was timing chain or lifters but you resolved my problem! Thanky you so much! We are talking about mazda 2

@leonbradshaw127

3 жыл бұрын

I have the same issue with my ST150 fiesta

@poosh6529

2 жыл бұрын

@@leonbradshaw127 I've been reading that specifically the ST150 doesn't have the swirl flaps, seems to be the exception. I'm not sure though, do you know for sure?

Excellent video and explanation of the flap issue!

Well mate! Here in Canada they dont sell the flaps separtly, i have to buy the hole shebang and the pcv valve comes with the hose and the box. Nice clear to the point video. Also the one for removing the intake manifold. Thanks.

Thanks for the video. Yesterday I removed the swirl flaps on my 2.0 ltr focus but it did not have the metal carrier guides, which I assume is the latest manifold version? However the swirl flaps had excessive movement so they were taken out. The rod appears to be in good condition without wear, which I will keep hold of. I also replaced the psv hose (£43!) which was split very badly when I consider its only covered 76k.The psv valve was also replaced. During the first road test it doesn't rev independently when stationary and is smooth when changing gear as the throttle pick up used to cause slight knocking due to pick up lag. Just to mention on the focus it appears a little tighter when removing the manifold as I found tilting it was my only hope. All in took over 5hrs as removal was hard especially the centre bolt. Thanks again for the clear instructions and the tip on taping the socket to the bolts on reassembly. Cheers

Beautiful explanation how a flap or runner work in a intake manifold .... thanks 🙏🙏🙏

One of the best videos on youtube!

Thanks for the great videos. I fix my Bad Flaps today on my 2003 Mondeo. I remove them and the car runs great. Thx again Craig! :) BR/ Micke from sweden.

@stickytarmacs

4 жыл бұрын

Hello i did this and now my car wont stay on it starts and dies?

@Suraniset

4 жыл бұрын

@@stickytarmacs you have to seal the holes

Just did the pcv job on my Volvo S40 1.8 from 2005 which has the same engine. I inspected the flaps and found that there were no bushings and not much wear. Vehicle has 150.000 km and i have only owned it for 2 years so i don't know if someone has done the changed the flaps, though i doubt it very much. Great video btw, very helpful.

Just changed the whole intake manifold on my 2008 focus 2.0 titanium (UK) for one out of a fiesta st150 runs much better thanks, virtually a straight swap but without the swirl flaps and fitted a new PCV valve & roose motorsport PCV hose thanks for posting these videos Craig they're really helpful 😀👍🏻

Great video, very informative. Everything I needed to know. Thanks for posting.

Thank you for the great detailed video! I think my best option is to deflap and call it good. My car is a Mercury Milan and has over 275k miles on it.

Years ago I had this problem with my duratec 2.0 focus...I bought an intake manifold for an Escape 2.3L application. The escape manifold don't have flaps. Still mounted the solenoids and actuator but just didn't hook up the linkage as there was none. Worked fine for me for 100k miles.

Hi very nicely done video! We have an 07 Focus for 11 years and it has been amazing. The big dirty secret is to do ALL your own work. This means proper tools learning as much as you can and getting down and dirty. Oil changes are a must with high quality oil and filter. We just began to notice this clicking down at the end of the intake. Beyond a doubt this is what it is. I plan to inspect shortly and probably just remove the flaps. Great work!

@alexcintas8792

4 жыл бұрын

The 2007 Duane doesn't have them.

thank you so very much sir you gave me hope of life I have this very issue on my neck at the moment and cannot source the intake used or new to save my life the wear on it is significant and something needs to be done immediately... I will look into your links >>Good narrating skills by the way....

hi watched a couple of your vids, and there all very professional and well explained .this helps us all out , keep up the good work .atb JOHN

Superb video! Thanks!

very good job. thanks for sharing!

You sir have probably the best user content quality I've seen on a diy video.... Ever! Just bought an 07 focus 2.0 duratec with 55000 miles and am really worried about these flaps. My car already has a pcv failure which led me to your videos. I also have two bad pulleys and a stuck thermostat or bad coolant temp sensor. I'm not sure because the car will warm up to temp but takes a a little. However once it warms up it seems to pick when it wants to open the t stat and usually when I'm putting around town. It's random as sometimes heat is fine. So I'm pulling the manifold and doing a tstat while I'm there doing pcv. Contemplating deleting the plates but worried about if I fill the holes with epoxy, that it might come out or I'll get a check engine light as I need emissions.

@CraigsDIY

5 жыл бұрын

I would just inspect the flaps (the rod particularly, as shown). Decide what to do based on their condition, if they're fine then leave them, maybe end-for-end the rod like me. If you do remove them I doubt you'll get a CEL, so long as you put the actuator and its connection back with nothing to do, the effect of the flaps appears to be subtle. Almost certainly tstat failed, so long as temp sensor giving sensible readings (ambient temp when cold, and up) it's probably fine.

Inciteful video! Thank you very much.

05' Mazda Tribute 2.3. ran 30k miles with it no problems. Went to 9 shops nobody could figure out until a guy who a focus noticed the sound immediately. Fixing tomorrow

Very good detailed video thankyou very helpful

Superb work

Dude great video and explanation

Excellent presentation.

Nice work mate 👍👍

I did a simple vacuum mod to a Ford Fusion intake w/o intake runners and installed, easier and works great.

@LiilTyweezy

4 жыл бұрын

What do you mean simple vacuum mod? Did you just remove the intake runners and did you still plug up the rubber motor?

Tremendous stuff ! I have a 2010 Focus Mk2 with 2.0L Duratec engine. It seems like Ford gave up the flaps, and placed a "Runner Control Valve" which seems to do the same job, and is very easy to replace (Ford #BS7E-9J559-AA).

@roycai8895

3 ай бұрын

I thought the valves controls the flaps ? I just bought the valves because I have the P2008 code on my 2007 ford focus, but now I am thinking of de-flaping it which would make the valve pointless. (I guess the good thing is it'll shut off the check engine light)

Hello Craig, just watched your Duratec manifold R&R video and now this one on fixing the swirl flaps. Interesting suggestion to just not re-install the flaps due to cost and take the little fuel economy hit. I may consider that after inspection once the manifold is removed. I mentioned before you seem to have good video capture and editing abilities, it really makes for a high production value, especially with the post recorded voice over. I think I'm going to try that also on my next repair job. Thanks, KPO

@darylkinnett675

4 жыл бұрын

How did your manifold turn out removing the flaps? Was going to get started on this myself over the weekend. Thanks for any information.

@joshuamackay7581

4 жыл бұрын

Kris Lynette I’m currently doing the delete method on my 2002 Mondeo 2.0 Duratec HE as my flaps are around 5x as bad of movement as this video after inspection tonight. It has taken me 3 months to get around to it as I suspected flaps to be the cause and had to weigh up options before jumping the gun. Will update you tomorrow once car is together and another update after a week or so with a flap delete. Note I’m not that experienced with cars and the removal task alone took nearly 6 hours with several 1/4 socket extensions written off as the 3/4 set doesn’t fit where bolts are

@joshuamackay7581

4 жыл бұрын

Okay, so I finished it earlier on today, the rod was an absolute prick to remove! And there oddly was only a plastic casing with all this ground up looking plastic in centre between inlets. I had to clean all of it down including between inlets were rod was due to how worn it was for the epoxy to grip. I filled every hole the rod went through and left the agitator on attached to side but left the white clip piece out as well so no cel code was thrown either. Initial test drive so far so much more responsive, picks up speed faster. I have noticed a slight delay or something along those lines if giving gas backing of n full gas straight away. Will see what it’s like for the next few days but seems to be running beautiful. Have not noticed a decrease in fuel consumption yet but will be able to tell later on down the line. Give it a go if you haven’t already. Also massive thanks to this channel. Has helped me through my journey with alot of swearing i got there in the end lol

Very good video. Too late for me but..thanks 4 your work.

Very usefull. Thank you man!!👍👍👍

Another great video. I removed mine completely as taking the manifold off was hard enough, I wasn't doing it twice lol. Never noticed a change in fuel consumption or running of the engine. As you said, some report a slight increase in consumption and some even say there's reduced power/torque in the lower rpm but I didn't really notice anything.

@RDCST

7 жыл бұрын

Did you get any DTC failure code?

@DavidB445

7 жыл бұрын

No, never had a problem with it done. Just removed the flaps, sealed up the holes left and bolted it back on.

@RDCST

7 жыл бұрын

Thanks for your answer.

@alanclifton4268

6 жыл бұрын

What did you use to seal them up? I need to do this later so any info is appreciated.

@Andy77337

6 жыл бұрын

The st150 version didn't have swirl flaps out the factory so I think removing is probably the best way, another great video though shows exactly how to make it like new again

Amazing videos, carefully done with the right amount of detail. These videos are real life savers (and money savers) for me. How did the car run afterwards? how much did the replacent flaps cost? All the best

@CraigsDIY

7 жыл бұрын

It ran no differently, as you can see in the video my flaps were a little loose and would have been vibrating, but working fine and no reason to think they would affect performance. It is just about dealing with the danger of them failing and killing the engine.

My car had 70,000 miles on it and the flaps were not worn at all, they still fit tightly in the housings. I removed them anyway, the car runs just as well as it used to, maybe even slightly better. I also installed an oil catch can because the oil seperator on these cars suck too much oil into the inlet for my liking. Might be why the flaps had so little wear in my case.

Thank you very much for this! My sister's 2005 Focus has some really loud flaps and I'm considering doing this fix. Appreciate the insight!

@sdbw1990

5 жыл бұрын

Did you end up doing this? I have an 05. Focus and was thinking about doing it

@chrisl2090

Жыл бұрын

@@sdbw1990 going to take this on next weekend It looks like... my intake flaps are super loud sounds like a diesel and low rpms. Every time I drive it now it makes me nervous after seeing these catastrophic failures.

@sdbw1990

Жыл бұрын

@@chrisl2090 I did this a little while ago. Went pretty good. I used jb weld to fill in the holes between cylinders. Car still running well years later!

@chrisl2090

Жыл бұрын

@@sdbw1990 I appreciate the reply. I have 248k miles on this 05 and I dont think the flaps have ever been looked at. Looking forward to a nice clean and none clattered idle..

great job, regards from ARG

Thank you for this video. Pardon my question: is this also applicable for a 2009 Mk2 (Mk2.5) gas Duratec HE engine? Do they have the same assembly? Took me forever to get a video that somehow might be related to the ticking sound (identified by our mechanic as "normal for injectors"). Thanks again!

Same engine different country. I also removed my flaps with zero problems. All of my modifications have actually gotten me and extra 2mpg. I removed the flaps and rod but replaced the actuator so that there is no check engine light and no botched vacuum leaks. I have also eliminated the EGR valve, installed an intake kit and an aluminum throttle body. I am going to soon install the manifold off of the 2.3L SUV that has runner control and use the swirl flap circuit to control it. This will give me dual length runner and that is far more effective for power and fuel economy than the swirl flaps.

@CraigsDIY

7 жыл бұрын

Interesting. Thanks for sharing. Would like to see more about upgrading to the 2.3 L manifold and converting the IMRC's to the old control. Won't you need a re-map?

@judgestacker9472

7 жыл бұрын

You will not need to remap as in change the MAP sensor arc. When I install it I will use the control circuit of the old tumble flaps to operate the IMRC. Once I get a tuner, the one I am going to get supports altering how that circuit functions and I can set the RPMs that the IMRC changes at. I want to see how it will operate on a stock tune though before I change it. I'll keep you updated.

@hardyXXL

7 жыл бұрын

Can you give us some more info about the actuator? What did you replace it with in order to avoid the CEL. I've been thinking of removing the flaps myself, but I wouldn't want to have a CEL always on.

@CraigsDIY

7 жыл бұрын

hardyXXL - he means he put the actuator back in situ, so as to avoid a CEL. It won't do any harm.

@hardyXXL

7 жыл бұрын

Oh gotcha, thanks for clarifying it! I'm gonna give that a try.

A1 plus plus video So helpful Thanks so much

Nice job done :)

Thank you for this great video. I really appreciate the format of audio edited with video. Easy watch and a good use of my time. I do have an important question.about option 3 as I will be choosing this option. Will this trigger an engineer code? I live with in the metro area of PDX Oregon. We have emission test every 2 years and check engine lights will fail the vehicle. Does removing the glass create an engine code?

@CraigsDIY

4 жыл бұрын

No. In theory the ECU should probably have a different map but in practice nobody reports any issues. It certainly won't effect emissions or set errors.

Well this video give me all the info on how these flap work...so as for me in central america parts are expensive so i disable the the flap system and uplug the solenoid and tube....leaving all flap open....bc the electronic throttle control the system as a regular car....car run super smooth and lots torque is nice and i get a extra mpg...first it was bugging and starving for air especially when i slow down and accelerate....

Great video. I have a 2009 SMax 2.0tdci. Is it likely to have flaps?

Thank You !

Excellent thank you

Woooooop.....crazy person instaling them on again....

Very nice vid.

I have a 2.0L 2005 ford focus and took the intake manifold off and removed the flaps of death. It's an arduous task with many sensors that don't want to come loose and none of them are the same! So each one has to be done differently. Most of them require pushing in the middle of the plastic electronic part and pulling, but not all. Like me, you will have to look at them and figure out how to release them. Ok, some hints on other things: 1. Consider replacing the PCV valve and put in a new PCV hose. These are not cheap if you get the proper parts (mine cost $15 for the PCV valve and $28 for the hose). Normally you cut the PCV hose off to release the intake manifold and then replace it, because getting a pliers down to the hose clamp and pulling the hose off the PCV valve is an enormously difficult task. Just cut and replace. The PCV valve has a plastic clip holder that you must not break! If you do, you must buy the entire oil separator to get a new one and these were $33 on Ebay. To pry off the clip, you need to remove the oil separator which is held on by 8 bolts, two of which you must have an 8mm wrench to release and the other 6 you can use a ratchet and socket. Then use a small small screwdriver and try to pry the clip off - some people use a knife. Be careful! Clean the oil separator with brake clean. Then put the oil separator back. At this point, my suggestion is to connect the PCV hose on the bottom (hose clamp) but on the top- install the PCV valve on the PCV hose (hose clamp) and you must leave the plastic clip on the PCV valve then when you get the intake manifold on the car you can then just press the PCV valve on to the oil separator and then using the long rod that held the flaps of death just press down on the plastic clip to snap it on. Otherwise, it's almost impossible to put the PCV hose on the PCV valve by using a pliers on the hose clamp with such limited space. 2. Clean the MAP sensor in the intake manifold. You need an electronics parts cleaner for this - I used CRC Electronics Part Cleaner (wal-mart). The MAP sensor is located near the bottom of the intake manifold, and is held on with a 20 Star screw. So do it while off the vehicle. kzread.info/dash/bejne/m5ebw66iddLVmMY.html 3. While the intake manifold is off the car, clean the MAF sensor with a special MAF cleaner. The MAF requires special care, so handle it such. It's held on by two 20 star screws. kzread.info/dash/bejne/h22EtpqTfpa6iKw.html 4. Clean the throttle body - and there is a special cleaner for this also. Wal-Mart has the MAF and Throttle body cleaner in one package in their auto parts. 5. Use poster putty or some other stuff that will seal the plug hole where that square rod was. 6. Replace all the vacuum hoses on the intake manifold while off the car. So much easier! 7. Clean all the sensor connectors with the electronics part cleaner. 8. Replace the manifold gaskets with new ones cause you don't want a leak there! 9. The manifold intake runner control (MIRC) is basically useless at this point, but the electronics need it. The control has a vacuum hose that connects to the front of the intake manifold - make sure you replace this. The second hose goes goes to the vacuum actuator that controlled the flaps of death. What I did was connect this hose to the plug on the right side of the MIRC, because that hose now serves no purpose, neither does the actuator. 10. Use a torque wrench on the intake manifold bolts at 13 ft lbs. All other bolts or screws snug. 11. You need to reset you electronics to get the car to work right. After doing all this work my car just died - not holding an idle! Disconnect the battery. Reconnect. Turn on ignition switch (not to start!, just to run) and let it sit for about 30-45 seconds then turn off. Try starting. It took me some time and feathering the throttle to get it to run, but then bingo, the computer saw the changes and fixed itself and the car's idle was ok.

@williamchristian2491

4 жыл бұрын

Nope. Don't use poster putty. Use SteelStick or other epoxy blend that works to putty but drys hard. Make sure you leave a space for the actuator.

who, thats a good video!!!!! thanks.

Спасибо!

Hola , exelentes videos , tengo un Mondeo 2005 2.0 y me han ayudado mucho, solo que tengo que esperar a traducir, hay alguna manera que se puedan ver los subtítulos

loved your video! we just bought a 2010 ford focus and found out the actuator isnt attached to the car, the previous owner took the rod out and the flaps. do you know we can eliminate the p2004 code by attaching an actuator and attaching the vacuum hose to it, or splice the vacuum hose to another vacuum line? you would be doing us a great service if you happen to know the answer to this question, thanks in advance!

@CraigsDIY

6 жыл бұрын

I think it's sufficient to just connect the electronics up, if the PCM sees the right electrical circuit it should be happy, it's not sophisticated enough to actually know what's happening. If the existing hose is available you could use it and just leave the actuator working nothing, on that note check the old mod sealed up the hose nipple on the manifold.

Hello Craig, great video. I removed the intake on my Ford vehicle and the flaps and rod are in really good shape. However for some reason I only had the bushing between #1 and #2. I had no bushing between #3 and #4. Have you ever heard of the bushing only being on 1 side? Since mine appears to be missing a bushing, I am considering removing the flaps. You mention removing the flaps and rod and then sealing the end where the actuator is. Wouldn't the actuator arm (white plastic piece) still seal this up against the green rubber seal just as it did when the metal rod was in place? Also, do you think having holes between each runner (where the rod once passed) would cause any issues?

@CraigsDIY

3 жыл бұрын

Maybe I never experimented with it, the rod inserts into it so its absence might cause issues? And there's no need for it once internals removed. You could seal the internal holes up too for the sake of perfectionism but I doubt they'd make any measurable difference to anything, especially in the context of the flaps for which the engine's tuned now being gone.

I removed the flaps completely and it runs just fine even after 510000 km.

@CraigsDIY

7 жыл бұрын

510,000 km? Good effort... what else (major) have you had to replace/fix?

@christianolsson834

7 жыл бұрын

nothing on the engine. But new shocks after 350000, new dual mass flywheel after 300000, and the usual bits like brakes etc that all cars go thru. High quality long life car that doesnt necessarily "feels" so. Mine is an ex Danish police car, there´s something done to the engine, faster than the V6 version anyway. One interesting thing is that the multilink back suspension seems to last forever though. Never done anything to tht suspension in all years. And we live on the countryside...

@RayRay-ic4fl

4 жыл бұрын

Hello, this comment was awhile back but still relevant; What do you do with the solenoid that attaches to the intake manifold that engages the actuator? Did it throw off a CEL code removing it?

@joshuamackay7581

4 жыл бұрын

Ray Loyst i left it attached so I didn’t have any code thrown. Just removed flaps and rod plus the piece of plastic that goes from arm to rod end

@billiardball9650

4 жыл бұрын

hello did you have to seal up every hole in each cylender or just the one that meets the acuater

Excellent videos. I am the the US yet many things cross to my 2006 Focus ST with the 2.3l duratec. I just removed the manifold and have removed the rod and flaps. On another KZread video the guy fills the holes between the runners with epoxy. Is this necessary?

@CraigsDIY

7 жыл бұрын

Not necessary to fill the holes. But it wouldn't hurt.

very nice video i have mazda 3 2008 with 230 000km do you think is time to remplace that or my car do not have problem in 2008 ?

How do I know that my focus needs this service? Are there any signs, noises or symptoms? I had thought about the PCV valve, just putting a filter on it without connecting it to the manifold, I don't know if it's a good idea.

300.000kms mk4 petrol 2.0 Duratec Mondeo owner here . I am experiencing elevated IATs when not in WOT, sometimes elevating up to 70-90c !! No strange sound from the manifold though, is there any chance stuck flaps could be an issue ?

My 2004 Focus with 2.3 PZEV engine has two vacuum tubes and two IMRC solenoids. But otherwise the manifold looks very similar. I'm sure it's a different Ford part number though.

My 1.8 Mondeo from 2003 already has 241k km on it. What's your advice? Count my loses if the manifold flaps give in? I don't drive much with it

i got an 03 mondy with 350,000+ km on the clock, apparently engine was replaced or repaired at around 180, any scratch i get on the car i just cover up with spraypaint of a similar color, hoping to not need to replace anything other than the gearbox again any time soon so im thinking a good ol delete would be best

hello.. I have the same issue in my flaffer and need to replace.. may i know where can I buy those new flaffer that you put.. I have Ford Focus hatchback 2.OL 2007.. thanks

What happen if you run the car without the flaps and keep the actuator so you don't get actuator code

Does the duratec petrol engine 2.0 from ford focus mk 2.5 (facelift) has these swirl flaps? I hear a hissing noise from around the manifold and the fuel range is quite poor.

this same piece would work for fusion 2006 2.3?, seems to be the same intek

So can I just leave them open or remove the flaps? Is hard to find those where I'm at.? Is for a Mazda 3 2010. Thanks mate

Were these on the 2008 USA focus?

What a great series of detailled video's!! Can You tell me if an Mondeo MK4 whit a duratec HE 2.0 petrol engine from 11-2008 has swirl flaps?I have engine fault code P2008 I think that whit your video's i can do it myself.Thjanks in advanceBertus.

@CraigsDIY

7 жыл бұрын

I think they do but I don't have experience... but it is hard to find references to problems with them on the Mk4s. Your code may relate instead to the IMRC solenoid(s) on the later engines. Google "imrc solenoid valve mondeo"; part # 1357313, see diagram @ eucatparts.com/?action=cat_ford_part&s_id_part=1210075&s_id_model=130&s_code_image=G012525403

Hello. Did this defect cause the engine to malfunction, or did it just cause noise?

Ur ma herooo!

I have a 2005 Mazda 3 2.3 Removed the flaps and the car just won't run right. I did NOT seal the holes between cylinders. I had a tune done and it still will run oddly. When cold the acceleration is hesitant. Even when warm sometimes I throw a code and have sluggish acceleration. At this point I may just replace the flaps or intake with a used one. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

So ive just bought a Mk3 Mondeo, noisy tappets or so i thought. Followed your commentry and thought id investigate the inlet flaps. MY GOD!!! One had completely come off. The other 3 had lost their shape and were very worn. I removed the inlet manifold and a couple of them complete fell out. Is the medal rod supposed to be 1 piece as mine was in 3 bits!?! Anyway thanks, im gonna run it without flaps for now and see how it gets on. Awesome video. Subscribed!!

@Brokkolesz

3 жыл бұрын

How does it run without flaps? Any issues, abnormalities?

Hey sir to take of intake manifold need to remove of fan ? Or not

Awsome!!!!

this is my favorite ASMR

Craig, if you just pull out the small vacuum pipe at the front, is there still a risk of the flaps falling into the engine?, I have remove the pipe and it has stopped the rattling noise but not sure if It's a long term fix

@CraigsDIY

7 жыл бұрын

It's not a long term fix, just an indicative test... if they are loose enough to rattle, they are still loose in there and can still eventually fail. You may slow the wear down a little but not stop it 100%.

My 2005 Mercury Mariner 2.3 had this issue, but in my case, Ford had relocated the flaps deeper into the manifold and they are sealed into the main body of the manifold, which is completely sealed. The only way to solve the rattle was to replace the entire manifold with a new one from Ford; about $200.00 U.S. at the time. The engine ran fine but sounded like it was falling apart.

@CraigsDIY

4 жыл бұрын

Those are called IMRCs (runner controls) and aid with the airflow, some manifolds have both. Honestly $200 for a brand new manifold assembly is not the worst outcome.

@E-COMMERCETRENDS

8 ай бұрын

Hello l have a 2005 petrol 2.0 Ford Focus recently whenever I park my car in direct sunlight when I start the engine l am hearing unusual noise from the dashboard around the car radio area

Are they in s-max too?

Hi sr I have a 2006 ford fusion 2.3 4 cyl. Have a code p2004 imrc. Stuck open. You know whats of problem there. Can help me. Thanks..

What model mk3 is this, I’m in love with that front bumper I have a Zetec and the fog lights are disgusting and the zs ones are nice but I really like your bumper

@CraigsDIY

3 жыл бұрын

Just a standard pre-facelift, not Zetec. I agree sometimes simple and basic is best.

Hi Craig, is this the same engine B4204S3 of Ford/Mazda? Same engine in some Volvos. My volvo has B4204S3 engine 2011. Same problem will occur soon I believe and got to follow your advice. Thanks heaps. Great videos.

@CraigsDIY

4 жыл бұрын

The later engines seemed to have less problems with the flaps, you might be lucky.

does these flaps fits american focus as well as Europe focus?

i started to hear some clicking noise as well:/ focus mk2 1.6 07

Amazing video. Is it possible to pull the rod and remove the flaps only to reinstall the rod (without flaps). My thinking is that reinstalling the rod (without flaps) you will plug the holes that would have been left in the manifold runners if you didnt reinstall the rod. You remove the compromised flaps, save yourself the trouble of reinstalling new flaps that will wear out, and not create holes in the manifold. Thanks!!

@CraigsDIY

5 жыл бұрын

You could, but the rod is really what's dangerous and it is what actually fails as shown in the video. Removing the flaps will probably slow the wear on it but I'm not sure how much. As to the holes between the runners, you could also seal them up with epoxy to isolate each tract but honestly I doubt it would make any perceptible difference to anything.

Bom dia,estou com o mesmo problema e não consigo encontrar essa peça pra comprar aqui no Brasil,vc pode me ajudar por favor?

Thanks for the great videos . I have a 2005 Ford Focus Duratec (USA) . Can I just disable the flaps as a preventative measure (pull the actuator vacuum line and plug it) ?

@CraigsDIY

7 жыл бұрын

You could and I guess it would help a little, but the wear and failure is (I think) caused primarily by vibration, not the actuating of the flaps, so it wouldn't be a long term solution.

@johnmora5830

7 жыл бұрын

Paul Patt i too have have one do they have the flaps