On the Elegoo Neptune Max 4 there is a similar problem with the heating bed. The bed heats up uneven, that is raising and lowering the bed due to its massive print size. The best advice I heard is to let the bed heat up circa 25 min for a 60 degree bed. Depends on your room temperature tho. Just search Neptune 4 review and fix from functional print friday. I hope that it will help you.👍🏻

Can you reverse the brass pieces? I 3d printed bigger spacers for the bottom of some of my printers. You can also drill out a penny. As it is cheaper then buying them.

G'day m8....i won one of these for xmas from Elegoo. So far ive not run into this problem, i just looked at my belt ends and the brass seems to be smaller than what your showing. Maybe elegoo got to this early and fixed it, as mine came from Elegoo, yours maybe early stock that was all ready in the warehouse in North America. Im not defending Elegoo, but over the last 4 years ive seen this happen often. As im in Australia we buy from all the big Printer Company's main US site's and stock is sent from Asia directly to the buyer, so we tend to get new updated stock. Big Cheers for the informative video on this potential hazard, From A m8 Downunder🙃

Respectfully I will comment and will suggest you to configure tilt screw calculate on Klipper in your print cfg file, that way you can tram your bed to be level, also to make sure your x axis is not skewed, you will have to find some z axis leveling tools on thingiverse and loose the z belt sync and adjust the height making even slight downward pressure against the parts you printed that help me ensure my EN4P was completely leveled. Then I run the probe calibrate command and adjust the z offset and boom my bed numbers were awesome. No more problems. There is a ton of info out there on how to make those adjustments. How my info helps.

@engineerable

2 ай бұрын

Thanks, my X axis was visibly skewed right out of the box, and I leveled it before starting to print. I need to look into the tilt screw calculate.

@TheBlitzGen8832

2 ай бұрын

@@engineerable I was a little hesitant when it comes to tweaking klipper, I found great videos that guide me through all steps required, I'm glad I did it was so much easier to tram the bed, trust me few pei sheet damaged later, as usual I was trying to stick to old habits of marlin tweaking which is good but klipper makes everything easy nowadays.

Same spot failures bro that corner is doom until its locked in..

@engineerable

2 ай бұрын

How do you suggest "locking it in". The bed leveling matrix doesn't seem to adjust for it.

@sTheecreep

2 ай бұрын

For me it was a combination of tin foil shams, leveling the gantry, and micro adjusting wheels and running auto leveling, a really good tip I got is go into "level" set the z height and just back out and you can freely move the print head and bed and and do manual auxiliary leveling that way faster, that and several bed level test prints and hours of struggleing... Also make sure the wheels under bed are correct a 36 hour print through my wheels of track and caused a whole mess.

@engineerable

2 ай бұрын

@@sTheecreep The first thing I had to do out of box was level the gantry as it was visibly crooked. I've seen the aluminum shims, and wondered if that was what would be necessary for that corner. I get the feeling that the Z axis backlash prevents it from properly compensating for the bed leveling matrix. I could measure the z-axis backlash. Is there backlash compensation in Klipper like there is for CNC machines?

😏 *promo sm*

Have you tried heating your bed for 30-60 minutes before running your mesh bed leveling? Beds generally warp as they heat. By preheating your bed, you are compensating for the warp created as your bed heats up. An enclosure helps reduce the time needed to preheat your bed. I got the grow tent kind from Amazon for 25 bucks. If you can find another listing like that it’s a worthy investment for your printer.

@engineerable

3 ай бұрын

Thanks for advice. I haven't tried preheating for that long before doing the mesh bed leveling. Does that mean that you would need to preheat for that long before each print? The bed temps I use range from 40C for TPU to 80-90C for ASA. I think the issue with the bed leveling mesh is the poor accuracy of the bed distance sensor, combined with backlash in z axis. The bed distance sensor is inaccurate by +/- 0.5mm. Every time it homes before a print, it might be perfect, or off by +/- 0.5mm. I do have use an enclosure. For sure the changes I made in this video made a big difference, but there's still some inaccuracy in the bed distance sensor. I have to calibrate the Z distance using the sheet of paper before every print.

@DigBickMcQueen

3 ай бұрын

@@engineerable hmm. 0.5mm is a lot of deviation . I personally don’t run a bed mesh every print. I do that around once every couple of weeks. I had the same issue you did and found the solution I shared on Reddit which fixed it but my probe isn’t as inaccurate as yours. However if the rest of your bed is sticking fine then I don’t think your probe’s 0.5mm inaccuracy is as impactful as your may think. For reference I’m running an ender 3 V2 with a cr touch as the bed probe.

@portela237

3 ай бұрын

You would want to preheat before printing as well, but 30 minutes seems pretty excessive. 5 minutes should be enough.

@engineerable

3 ай бұрын

@@portela237 I always preheat, reset the Z offset, then print

@2001pulsar

3 ай бұрын

I found 20 minutes needed to get good level from cold.