climber: this snow is great, snowboarder: this snow is TRASH

35 °C outside, 2:30 am, got to work tomorrow... Yes, show me how to build a snowanchor youtube!

She seems like the real deal!

Imagine Emilie Drinkwater marries James Eatfruit

1:40 the picket is facing a different way to 2:56

@byronmuir9030

3 жыл бұрын

Yes, that's the correct way to place it. When clipping from the top without the attached cable, you face the cable away from the pull and the point of the V shape toward the pull. When mid-clipping with the cable you face the ends of the V toward the pull and the cable toward the pull. This is to prevent buckling of the stake. When it is top clipped the forces through the stake are reversed and it would buckle at a weaker load than having the spine take the load, which is the case of facing the point of the V in the direction of pull.

@jamesaddison81

3 жыл бұрын

@@byronmuir9030 very interesting, thanks!

did you put the picket in backwards when you showed the top clip? I thought it should ALWAYS be open side to the load, not the pointy side.

it would be worth your time to watch howNOT2 testing of snow anchors. Especially if you're in PNW. Painful how some snow anchors perform so poorly.

@justinberkeleyrussell3282

3 ай бұрын

Thanks for calling this out! kzread.info/dash/bejne/hoOtmKmapsLFlLg.html for those interested. Don't be dissuaded by the clickbaity titles and editing - seeing a 3' mid-clip picket pull out at 1 kN (like 225 lbs) is eye opening.

What if it's softer snow then what do you do?

@Govanification

5 жыл бұрын

Try to compact it if possible or use a snow fluke if compaction is not possible.

Could you please tell me the brand name on the ice picket? Thanks

@rayze686

2 жыл бұрын

Its a Yates Cable Picket

If you are building a T-Trench Anchor, you should avoid walking on the snow towards the load. This could cause a colapse.

@profd65

5 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the expert commentary, Mr. Climbing Gym.

@mtnsense

5 жыл бұрын

Actually, in the case of soft powdery snow, you will want to walk on the snow towards the load in order to "work harden" the fluffy snow into more compact snow. If it is firm snow, you are right, and walking on that part of the snow is not beneficial.

@Aestheticnerdlife

4 жыл бұрын

@@profd65 I just realized you're a troll account with no actual knowledge; why do people waste their lives like you.

I'll be sure to bring a block of wood on my next trip so that I'm not hammering metal on metal for crevasse rescuing!