@1:36 I have watched several of Matt's videos and he hasn't used 2x4's. They clip you referenced he was using 1x4's directly over Carlisle wip-300ht on a 45 degree with cor-a-vent under the drip edge flashing.

@HomePerformance

4 жыл бұрын

Yes, I realize you're right about the videos- but I think 2x4's would be an improvement I'd go for.

@FixthisCD

4 жыл бұрын

@@HomePerformance 2x4s would definitely eliminate more screw penetrations in the roof membrane

Again, thank you for sharing your experience!

@HomePerformance

4 жыл бұрын

So glad you find it helpful, Matt

The other added benefit of the diagonal version is how it can create overhangs on all sides of the roof if that is desired.

Excellent. Thank you!

@HomePerformance

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks for following!

I am using 1x4 nail parell to truss and nailing horizon to the 1x4 . i am put a radiant barrier over waterproof cap sheet . you get air flow and a rain sheet at the same time . this good for me i have 9and 12 pitch

Hi, I think this is a good solution. But I keep wondering whether you can skip the wood strips entirely and instead run the coravents horizontally, You still get the air gap without obstructing vapor/water flow. Does this make sense? Also, I believe I have asked this question already in another one of your videos but what lifetime do you expect to get out of those coravents, assuming they are under metal roofing?

Good stuff

@HomePerformance

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks for following

The air gap is mainly for a thermal break. The gap allows radiant sheeting to actually work. Radiant sheeting depends on air. If you could give 2” that would be much better. The reason people place diagonal is it saves on materials and 2nd it makes it safer for roofers to work on steep roofs

Pressure-treated 2x4 would corrode the metal would they not-- as well as the metal screws? Is there such a thing as triple-coated washer metal panel screws?

@HomePerformance

4 жыл бұрын

Haha, interesting point

@eh_bailey

3 жыл бұрын

I think this is one reason they aren't used. Everything would have to me PT rated, and that adds another layer of complexity

I only have experience with tiled roofs (European). The vertical channels are for venting and drainage (snow blowing under your roof tiles). But so little water gets under the tiles, plus plenty of ventilation, that the wood doesn't rot at all. The roof membrane isn't a water absorbent material, so the wood doesn't stay wet for long if it gets wet. For Matt Risinger the choice to go diagonal is probably to make installation easier, like you said in the video. Then again he's in Texas, so water isn't really an issue.

@HomePerformance

4 жыл бұрын

All good points

@joecooper1703

3 жыл бұрын

Austin is not particularly dry. Its average annual rainfall is about on average with the continental US as a whole...34.2" per year in Austin vs US average of 30.21". It's no Seattle, but it's not dry, either. We have to build for rain and flooding, though not for extreme cold or snow. Some parts of central and east Texas have violent thunderstorms and severe flooding pretty regularly.

@HomePerformance

3 жыл бұрын

Maybe the snow is the difference then- the verts just make it more difficult, I’m sure we’d all go diagonal if we could.

@balzacq

Жыл бұрын

@@joecooper1703 Seattle is no Seattle, either, at least not as people imagine it. We only get 39.3" average per year -- but that's spread over constant drizzle from 200 cloudy days out of 365.

1) you are loading the coravent with extra weight, which may be fine, but you are burning screws, lumber and time doing it your way 2) the wider coravent product at the 45 degrees ridge to lip, if the standing seam guys will warranty the roof, just go over it. If not, take 1/4 lumber and go vertical over the coravent 3) for the second option, at that point you know where the support material is because of the coravent - just hit a screw at the ridge, swing the 1/4 lumber and hit it at the eave and then just walk up the roof setting a screw periodically. I would think that vented slats at 45 degrees would be way, way better than any fiddling with tape in 2x material or doing PT (which would just eat your screws anyway).

Just do 1x4 vertical on the rafters with a screen membrane over the front and back edges (if doing a shed style roof) and then horizontals on that (grid style) to attach your metal roofing Perfect example: kzread.info/dash/bejne/h3-fyKaOmMLLkZc.html

If you have air flow, where wood can dry, then it wont rot and there's no need for pressure treated wood. When wood gets wet and stays wet, such as if it were wrapped and no air flow exists, then it will rot. Watch any of Joseph Lstiburek videos on building science and he mentions this in his videos...

@HomePerformance

3 жыл бұрын

Good point Paul

@TarzanArmani007

Жыл бұрын

Don't use pressure treated wood

You’re vertical channels make sense for airflow under the roofing material. The diagonals seem to cut off areas of the roof when natural convection is occurring. I think the cross hatch is the only way to get this done properly. I agree that a 2x4 is going to be stronger than the 1x4 material.

@bustertn2014

4 жыл бұрын

Gotta get the water out. Hence the slope of the 1x4's,

Where did you go to get Core-A-Vent products? In Oregon I've called around and only get Quarrix products stocked at supply houses.

@HomePerformance

4 жыл бұрын

Order directly from them at: cor-a-vent.com

I know one roofer that wraps the wood in roof underlayment.

@HomePerformance

4 жыл бұрын

Wow, that might be overkill imho

Matt uses a regular 1x4 the butyl tape is not necessary according to him. There shouldn't be that much water getting in there. What does get in can drain and dry.

Are you installing through fasten roofing with exposed heads or standing seam concealed fastner roofing? I considered the same approach as you, almost, substituting the core vent with 3" rips of 3/4" plywood ran vertically and 2x4" purlings ran horizontal, all over a deck covered entirely with peel and stick ice and water shield. I then plan on using exposed fastner roofing. My roof is a 12/12 pitch , I am not worried about water intrusion as all the verticals will be fastened through self sealing membrane.

@adamswendsen2494

4 жыл бұрын

Still somewhat concerned over the plywood rotting. Just not as much as horizontal purlins directly on deck. And I would think diaganal would be a rot issue as well.

@HomePerformance

4 жыл бұрын

We’ll be installing hidden fastener mechanical lock standing seam. Agreed, there is no silver bullet.

Another way to approach your dilemma when comparing your alternatives, choose the one used by the guy who has been building houses for 20+ years. Assume he has thought through the pros and cons. Keep up the good work...😁

@HomePerformance

4 жыл бұрын

I hate to be a cynic, but I would NEVER assume that just because anyone has been doing something for 20 years means they’ve critically analyzed the pros and cons and alternatives. If they were taught by their dad, in fact, I would assume the opposite.

Yeah, if I have a shiny silver metal roof, do I still need a radiant barrier?

So the question is, pressure-treated or not pressure-treated? I kind of figure you have to go with pressure-treated 2x4’s.

@HomePerformance

4 жыл бұрын

Unless you wrap them a bit up the sides with waterproofing butyl tape

@TarzanArmani007

Жыл бұрын

No! Don't ever use treated lumber other than a deck. Period. The chemicals eat through your hardware and the metal roof.

Seems to me that there actually will be little or no rain that actually gets beneath your metal roofing. The steps to allow for drying _in the event there is water intrusion_ are good, but surely pressure-treated stock is not required to support the panels.

@drencrum

3 жыл бұрын

Yeah, it's mostly just to allow the back of the roofing to dry out and not thermally transfer anything into the insulated space, if it was shingles you would do a second layer of osb (expensive) but at least the nails would never rust and rot and you effectively have a roof over your roof.

@joshuasmith1215

Жыл бұрын

Agreed. If untreated wood has the ability to dry when it gets wet, it's not going to rot. If it gets wet and stays wet and fungus finds the surface, then it's rot time. People forget that people literally sailed the world's oceans in wood boats.

@misterlyle.

Жыл бұрын

@@joshuasmith1215 Thanks for your reply. I recently learned that even pressure-treated lumber can rot if it gets rained on too often.

@TarzanArmani007

Жыл бұрын

Don't use pressure treated wood anywhere other than what is meant for. It's chemical treatment eats through hardware and the back of metal roof material

Are any high-end home owners ordering Tesla-Solar-Glass shingles?

I am using 1x4 nail parell to truss and nailing horizon to the 1x4 . i am put a radiant barrier over waterproof cap sheet . you get air flow and a rain sheet at the same time . this good for me i have 9and 12 pitch