The bleed cap adapter shown in this video for the 3 tab round Ford master cylinders, made from PLASTIC: amzn.to/3GKHSTw (Amazon Link) The bleed cap adapter shown in this video for the 3 tab round Ford master cylinders, made from METAL: amzn.to/3q0JaD7 (Amazon Link) The round 3 tab GM adapter that I quickly showed in this video, made from PLASTIC: amzn.to/324rFdg (Amazon Link) The round 3 tab GM adapter that I quickly showed in this video, made from METAL: amzn.to/33pyNkD (Amazon Link) Other Motive brake bleeder kits and adapters: amzn.to/3GRiEDa (Amazon Link) Motive's website for adapter vehicle fitment: www.motiveproducts.com/collections/adapters Harbor Freight in-line filter as shown in the video: www.harborfreight.com/disposable-inline-moisture-filter-68224.html Harbor Freight in-line air filter that is FAR better than the one shown in the video and is only about one dollar more. Get this one if you can! www.harborfreight.com/disposable-inline-moisture-filter-63951.html In-line air pressure regulator SIMILAR to the one I showed in the video. (they don't sell the exact same one that I have any longer): www.harborfreight.com/125-psi-air-flow-regulator-with-gauge-62695.html As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

I made my own power bleeder out of some plumbing parts, a tire inflator compressor attachment and a fernco. The fernco will go over any brake fluid reservoir... sometimes with more leaking sometimes with less. The trick is to adjust the pressure so you get about 5-6 psi constant at the master cylinder. On my Subaru I needed 80 PSI to compensate for the leak, on my GM truck it was a much tighter fit and I only needed about 10 PSI to get 5 PSI at the master cylinder. Please note that if you put 80 PSI on the tighter fitting GM truck the whole thing will pop off and spray brake fluid everywhere... ask me how I know that! Basically if you carefully dial the pressure in, you can use your own homemade power bleeder that you made for $20 (requires compressor)

I built a system like this a few years ago except I added a large Mason jar between compressor and reservoir. This way I’m technically pumping air into a quart jar full of dot4 and this is being forced into the reservoir via another tube. This way I have a quart of fluid absorbing the “air” problem in the reservoir your describing. It works well. For the glass jar, use the flat sealing lid and ring. Drill two holes in lid that accept the diameter of air fittings. Use the brass coupling nuts on the underside. On one of them, add a tub to extend to a low point almost touching the glass bottom. This low point will be used to fill the reservoir. The higher fitting is the air supply from the compressor. Yes, the glass jar will support 15lbs of pressure

@SlipFitGarage

Жыл бұрын

Great idea, Thanks!

Right on Brian, I've spent a "lifetime" bleeding brakes using the traditional two man method, and I recently got that Motive Products Power Bleeder. It almost makes bleeding brakes pleasureable. lol But now that I see this. This is pure genious. This is a great option to have. -Chuck

@SlipFitGarage

2 жыл бұрын

Hey Chuck, glad to see you here.... Thanks for the compliment. I agree, when I originally purchased my Motive bleeder I thought to myself "how did I ever bleed brakes before this". It really does make bleeding brake MUCH easier and it really helps to get stuck air out of the ABS module. But now with this new device that I assembled here in the video.... it makes it even easier when you don't have to pump by hand. Like I mentiond in another comment to WJ Handy dad, the Motive bleeders that I have used seem like the pump is very weak and it takes forever to get the tank and brake system up to 10-15 PSI. Either way..... whether you use the Motive hand pump, or the pressure regulater shown in this video..... it's MUCH easier than bleeding the traditional way with two people. (And I think it's more effective, too..... especially when trying to get stuck air out of the ABS module) Thanks for stopping by, Chuck. The information about the EVAP drive cycle that I found on your video is greatly appreciated. I just need to wait for spring and I'll get that monitor to run eventually. lol.

@PanzerPlatform

2 жыл бұрын

@@SlipFitGarage Right on, I'm heading over to your A30 Pro video. XTool just sent me the A30M for test & review. -Chuck

@SlipFitGarage

2 жыл бұрын

@@PanzerPlatform I don't know much about the A30M but the A30 Pro truly impressed me. The ratio between cost and functionality on that tool is excellent. I will subscribe to your channel and watch for the A30M video.

@PanzerPlatform

2 жыл бұрын

@@SlipFitGarage Prepare to be disappointed. lol

On the Motive bleeder. I cleaned mine after every use but the lines still deteriorated and rotted...blew apart sending fluid everywhere:( Just use air to the MC now:)

Nice setup. I was thinking you could put a bladder on the bottom of the cap, but it would probably be clunky and make a mess.

@SlipFitGarage

Жыл бұрын

That MIGHT work but the bladder material would need to be fairly thin for it to work properly.... and yes, it would probably make a mess, too. Honestly, the short amount of time the fluid is exposed to air is a relatively short period of time. The bleeder I built in this video is perfect for my personal projects. If I was doing a bunch of brake work professionally, I would buy a proper power bleeder. Thanks for the comment.

Which OBDII scan tool did you use? Nice job on the design and setup. I have a 2005 F150 that I'm pulling my hair out on

@SlipFitGarage

Жыл бұрын

On this particular project I used my Autel 908.... however, any scan tool with the ABS brake bleed function would've worked okay. They can really be frustrating to get the air completely bled out of. Keep at it, you'll eventually get it. By the way.... have you entered my drawing for a free Foxwell NT809 bidirectional scan tool yet? If not, check out my most recent video on how to enter and win. It's free with no strings attached. The drawing is next Friday. If you have already entered, then please disregard. Good luck, Sir!

NICE

@SlipFitGarage

9 ай бұрын

Thank you!

Panzer Platform sent me here. Interesting... I guess you shut off your air, remove the MC cap, refill the MC, and then put back on and do next wheel? Seems like more trouble than just doing the motive with brake fluid in it. But yes, as far as bleeding goes, the Fords seem impossible to get a firm pedal. Every Vic I've seen (including ones I've never touched the brake system) have the same pedal... goes right to the floor when parked and goes right to the floor after stopping. But all of them brake fine when driving. And little to no air ever comes out, whether doing 1 man, 2 man, Motive, or the scan tool ABS bleed.

@SlipFitGarage

2 жыл бұрын

Hello, thanks for stopping by. I have watched several of your videos. In fact, if I'm not mistaken, It was your video that shows how to turn off the TPMS light on the dash using FORscan. I have purchased the OBDLink EX from Amazon and I plan to give that a try in the next few days. Fingers crossed. And yes, I just remove the cap to top-off the master cylinder. It's not much of a hassle considering how easy it is to put air back into the system, and I don't put fluid in the Motive tank anyway (to keep it clean) so actually this is much easier than hand pumping the Motive tank back up to 15 psi when I top off the MC. If you have ever used the Motive bleeder then you'll know what I mean when I say it takes forever to pump that tank and brake system up to pressure. I have used several of these Motive hand pumps and all of them seem like the pump doesn't work..... but eventually it starts to build pressure. It seems like it takes a hundred pumps before you get anywhere. lol. As for Ford brake pedal feel.... I agree. The majority of the Fords that I have driven always seemed to have mushy brakes. Fortunately, this 2008 CV that I recently purchased had a very firm brake pedal right at the top. The pedal felt great! But of course I couldn't leave well enough alone and I had to install a "Line Lock" to assist in doing burnouts when I feel the need. (probably not very often since I just put 4 new wheels and tires on the car a few weeks ago. lol) Once I opened the brake system and air got into the ABS module, it was a chore to get the pedal back to where it was and this device that I put together was very helpful. (along with running the auto bleed on my scan tool many times) Again, thanks for stopping by and thanks for the comment. I will post a comment on your FORscan video when I attempt to turn off my TPMS light.

@WJHandyDad

2 жыл бұрын

@@SlipFitGarage thank you for the nice comments. yes, I just started using the Motive and I've liked it thus far. I clean it with denatured alcohol in between uses and so far it seems to work. I even tried running the automated ABS bleed while doing the motive bleeder but it didn't seem to work. I guess you have to press the pedal too. I've done so many ABS bleeds I'm losing my mind, but still don't have a "firm" pedal.

Make sure to bleed off the water in your compressor tank so that it doesn't rust through and explode...

@SlipFitGarage

Жыл бұрын

Absolutely. That is a MUST DO with any air compressor (not just for bleeding brakes) Thanks for the comment.

Why all thise fittings, go to the junkyard and get the cap and fit a nipple. buy a simpel Pump nipple (for the tire) and a hose, then use your tire for pressor.

@SlipFitGarage

Жыл бұрын

Because it's what I had..... Feel free to make your own design however you see fit. None of this is set in stone....

If anyone has a vacuum pump,you can PRESSURE bleed the brakes; wait a minute.... Oh yes,i was right»» You see,when you create VACUUM at the wheel bleed nipple,the atmospheric pressure, pushes down on the fluid inside the Master Cyl.with a PRESSURE of...1 atmosphere; that is what...14 psi?? So,you convert Vac into Press... but..are they the same?? confused??

@SlipFitGarage

10 ай бұрын

I'm only confused because I'm not sure if this is a question for me, or just simply a comment? If you're posting that vacuum bleeding is the same as pressure bleeding, well... it's not. You can word things however you like, but it's not the same. And the main reason why I say that is because of the air bubbles that get sucked past the bleed screw threads when doing a vacuum bleed. And the grease around the threads trick does NOT work. The brake fluid washes away that grease almost intimately. Hey, don't get me wrong.... If vacuum bleeding works for you then by all means keep vacuum bleeding. I'm not trying to tell anyone how THEY should do anything. I am simply showing how I bleed stubborn brakes. This method works for ME. Your mileage may vary...