How to Belay from the Top of a Climb
Apex Guide David explains the technical set up of the redirect and direct belay methods used during a top belay when climbing. Hear his pros and cons of each method, so that you can be an informed climber on your next multipitch or during a top belay toprope!
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Пікірлер: 22
Very clear and thorough. Thank you
Well done . Thanks
سڵاوتان لێبێت
Is the other end of the rope tied to your partner below while the majority of the rope is pooled at the top belayers feet? Am I reading the situation as a whole correctly?
@xaviergorloo8050
3 жыл бұрын
Probably
@mountainpeak6604
3 жыл бұрын
Yes. The rope leading from the top of the device holds your partner in place and breaks their fall, meanwhile (as the belayer) you draw slack through the bottom of the device. The slack may either be pooled near the belayer or dropped off the side of the wall and drawn up once the climber reaches the belayer.
Why are you clipped in above the master point? Doesn't that give your point of connection zero redundancy?
@crabbiboi5528
Жыл бұрын
That's pretty much the standard. The anchor is redundant, using two three or four bolts or placed protection. In the method you are talking about would you build a separate anchor for yourself and one for your belay?
@Bustercruz
Жыл бұрын
@@crabbiboi5528 Clipping in to the shelf of the anchor can be redundant but the way this instructor is clipped in above the master point to a single strand on a two piece anchor is not. It looks like he's using rope for the anchor material which is plenty strong enough to not require any redundancy, but if the one peice that rope is attached to blows (assuming its a 2 piece anchor) its game over. Definitely not recommended to clip in the way this instructor is.
@Bustercruz
Жыл бұрын
I noticed this as well... definitely not best practice.
@crabbiboi5528
Жыл бұрын
@Buster Jesik I wasn't referring to the actual clip. The way he is clipped in is kinda sketch. I was talking about a standard cordolette or sling anchor with two or three pieces of pro.
@crabbiboi5528
Жыл бұрын
In this setup, it looks like he just has a single strand of rope around a boulder or tree. Either way, if you are clipped into the master or shelf if that anchor rope breaks, he is going down. Seeing how it's a full ass rope and not just a cordolette or sling I would say the system is probably strong enough. I mean we use a single climb line most of the time and we're fine with it not being redundant. Would I do it this way if it were me? Ehh, mabye. Is there a better way to do it? Proabably.
seems alot easier to use a gri gri for this since everyone has one nowadays anyway
@yvespigeon3021
2 жыл бұрын
Personally, I don't like the Gri gri... so bulky and heavy gear
@dannyCOTW
2 жыл бұрын
grigri is handy but not mandatory, the question is if it is worth 5x the price plus extra moving parts. sometimes, sure.
@Messiahs
Жыл бұрын
@@yvespigeon3021 If you are too weak to carry a Grigri up, you are doing sth wrong.
@yvespigeon3021
Жыл бұрын
@@Messiahs ?? My wife and I are rock and Ice climbers since years... I don't know what is going on with your Comments to me...
@FourT6and22
Жыл бұрын
I don't like the GriGri because then you have to carry a tube-style device anyway if you want to rappel double line. So might as well just carry an ATC-style device in the first place and ditch the GriGri.
Dude screw down so you don’t screw up