I once had a potentially dangerous situation when using the last method with my partner. The anchor set up was the same, but instead of an abseil ring there was a single fixed snapgate (definitely not my favourite type of anchor for safety, but always like them for getting to the end of a hard lead 😂). Anyway, I'd clipped the snapgate and put a screwgate in the upper bolt to take the wear and so she could just remove the screwgate to lower off, but while she was toproping the rope had either unclipped from the snapgate, or the other strand had clipped itself in. If she'd taken out the screwgate she would have been attached to nothing. Thankfully she was switched on and realised this, but could have been bad if she was a complete beginner. She always takes a sling/lanyard, even when using this toprope method, just to clip in and make sure everything is safe before removing the screwgate. Just something to watch out for if using this method.

@Vim_Tim

8 ай бұрын

Regrettably, this is exactly how a young climber died in Alabama recently. The “Mussy hook” anchors became unclipped after she removed the locker and she fell from the top of the climb.

@Jordan-L24

8 ай бұрын

@@Vim_Tim I heard about that incident. Such a tragedy. When I heard I immediately thought of the situation my partner and I had been in. Since posting my first comment I've started leaving the quickdraws in the route when using any sort of top rope method. Even if the person top roping is climbing on the strand of rope that's not through the draws. It just gives another level of redundancy if the anchor was to fail or unclip somehow. The worst that would happen is my partner wouldn't get up the route and I'd have to climb it again to retrieve my gear, which normally isn't an issue because when using these methods it's usually with people climbing lower grades than me. Either that or Prusik up the rope or leave gear, which is a pain, but not the end of the world. Thoughts are with the young girls family and friends. I hope others can learn from this tragic incident.

@niallmurphy2163

5 ай бұрын

@@Jordan-L24 The person who is going to clean the anchor could clip the the belay strand into the highest quickdraw on the way up. That gives the redundancy needed.

Great video and I loved the lower off trick at the end. I often use a sling with either overhand or figure of eight as you described. To make the knot easier to undo I will clip a spare carabiner through the centre of it. That stops the knot from tightening up too much, and after you take out the carabiner at the end of the session, the know usually comes undone without any trouble. I can't think of a reason why that would weaken the knot or reduce safety - what do you think?

Nice video. As I have quite a few friends who aren't that comfortable leading, I own a Edelrid bulletproof carabiner to toprope on. I've used it for years and it doesn't show any sigs of wear.

Love watching and learning from your vids. Big Thumbs up!!! Your last method on this vid has all of the weight on a single bolt. Doesn't that violate the "equalized" part of anchor building? Where this is being used as a top rope, there won't be a lot of force on any of this system, but still, it puts everything onto a single anchor. Working with many Scout troops and youth groups, I am a little bit conservative in my effort to both provide a good, safe experience and at the same time protect myself from liability. I may rig this way for myself, but for others I will use one of the other equalized methods. Something else that I am sure you probably do is use a steel biner rather than alloy at the top of a top rope anchor where the rope will introduce more wear and tear as climbers move up a climb and then are lowered down. Not such a big deal if it is one up and down, but it is more important when working groups.

@JBMountainSkills

10 ай бұрын

With bolts, I'm not super concerned with equalisation (assuming they're in good order etc.) If in doubt, equalise in a regular manner. Steelies are good for proper group use for sure 💪

Helpful video thanks, What would you recommend for rams horn/monster hook lower offs?

Is putting carabiners through main ring(s) going to wear the ring and not only general wear like the rope but possibly sharper?

@Vim_Tim

10 ай бұрын

In general, stainless steel is a way harder metal than forged aluminum. I have never heard anyone claim that the vibrational movement of aluminum carabiners on steel rings/hangers can cause any notable damage, especially in the form of sharp edges or imperfections.

@shoqed

4 ай бұрын

I think it would have to be loaded in the same exact way each time over a long period, so it's not likely if other people use different carabiners, redirect through both bolts, and polish the ring by lowering in the meantime. There have been cases where the biner was sharpened but it was on a permadraw, so it was loaded always the same way, because the other draws were always forcing it in the same orientation and almost no one was lowered from that draw becaue it was on an easier section

what about anchor on the right how do you set that up

@GBScouts

Жыл бұрын

3:10

@disgruntledwookie369

Жыл бұрын

Personally I would use a sling or cord and create a master point. Quickdraws work great if the bolts are level but it's just a shortcut. Overhand on a bight is usually sufficient but if there's a lot of side to side movement on the climb I'd probably go with a limited sliding x, though some people (eg. Ryan from HowNot2 would argue that the limiter knots aren't really that necessary. Fears about extension and shock loading may be overblown. Of course, if you do this you can't pre-thread the rope for the lower off and cleaning the anchor requires someone who knows what they're doing.