Even though the video is 8 years old now, I've still got to say thanks. Simple, yet very informative. And at almost 116,000 views, I suspect you've helped a whole lot of people.. Well done.

Thank you for making and posting this video! It was extremely helpful. I was having a hard time loading the spring on the bench until I found your video. It is much easier using your method on the jackshaft and especially using a clamp to hold the pulley once it was wound correctly.

I've been searching for a video of this for days! Thank You for posting this! I bought a brand new TAV and it hits overdrive much too quickly, but I didn't want to mess with it until I knew for sure what I had to do.

Very well explained and just exactly what i was looking for!! Thanks Boss!

Ive had a hard time finding anywhere, a step by step method to adjusting/preloading one's driven spring assembly(TAV2)... so I made one, best I could w/ 1 hand...

Awesome, to-the-point video. Thanks much.

Awesome video mate cheers for the info!

Thank you for this... Very helpful.

Excellent video man Really helped out a lot!

@TheTihm

8 жыл бұрын

+J.D. Byrd TYsir... Glad I could be of service ;-)

This video was great help ty

Thanks for the info.

i like the cell music

Much appreciated

Agreed thank you

Thank you after two days looking someone showed the bottom clutch. I have to replace the plastic buttons on sons yerf dog so wish me luck ......

@TheTihm

10 жыл бұрын

'Driven' is the name for the "bottom clutch". I myself have never had to replace the buttons(knock on wood)... but I hear its just a matter of pressing them in(forcibly). GL

I like !

good video

@TheTihm

9 жыл бұрын

Thank you sir! I actually need to REdo it... #1 and #3 are backwards... some may not get the notice... ... but ty again.

Nice vid.. not to bad for tri-pod-less, lol. Sre it'll help way more people than you'll know!

@TheTihm

9 жыл бұрын

btchhopperou812 I have read ALOTTA folks needing the info that I have attempted to supply in this vid... ty. Yea no tripod... not even a 'real' camera... good ole iPod, hehe.

HElp! I had problems with the torque converter. Fixed it. Now have problems with the clutch assembly...the thing you are working on in this video. Anyway, As soon as I give it gas, the pulley moves out and right away its to the high speed setting. This is the preload your talking about right? To prevent the belt from bottoming on the shaft? Trying not to run the gokart over with my truck.

@TheTihm

8 жыл бұрын

+JS Lakenes Preload is the tightening of the spring, so as that it continually places tension on the sheaves to grip the belt. If you dont preload the spring chances are good that you wont go anywhere cause the belt wont grip the pulley sheaves enough to turn the wheels. Not sure where youre getting the idea/info the belt will bottom out. If the "Driven" (unit depicted in the vid) spring is in the #1/#3 hole... put it in the #2 (middle) hole... and follow steps after 1:08. Do each step as you see in the vid... hit pause/rewind if you have to ;-)

Will give it a try. I am missing a little plastic or rubber piece. Is that a deal breaker also? Thank you!

@TheTihm

8 жыл бұрын

+JS Lakenes If your talking bout the stops... you 'can' get away w/ running 2 of the 3 stops... but id recommend replacing any that are missing. FYI... they're only NEEDED on one side of the peak.

Thanks

@TheTihm

9 жыл бұрын

Andre Garner Np!

I have watched this video a bunch of times and i am still haveing a problem when i pre load the spring to 180 some time the spring pops out of the number 2 hole and if it holds when we start trike the driven gear rotates back and locks on the bump stops and wont let the spring get compressed and we have barely any movement if you have any advice please let me know..Been trying to get this going for a week

@TheTihm

9 жыл бұрын

Ensure the spring is the proper rotation(pause vid at 55secs and compare your spring to mine for the direction their wound). You 'may' have a backwards rotational spring... which would cause 'binding', and not allow the proper tension to the spring, which would/could cause the driven hub to push over n lock between the bump stops. It would actually attempt to compress the driven pulley, instead of expanding it... atleast, from my understanding of your description... the wrong spring rotation, would be 'my' first guess. "If" it's NOT that I suppose it's possible your spring is worn and you need a new one... or even worse... the hole has woddeled out and wont hold the spring. WORSE case, you have a mismatched driven, that is 'designed' to run backwards and youre attempting to run forwards... but that's usually a 40 series issue(if ever)... not a 30 series/TAV2.

@criticalw88

6 жыл бұрын

Since the spring of the driven is outboard, don't you need a yellow "reverse wound" spring? Gokart supply has such a spring as described. I see all of the Chinese Comet CVT knock-off with red springs like yours, yet the driven spring is outboard.

Will this stop my belt from locking up.. bike will be riding fine then the rear part of the torque converter will lock up causing the wheel to stop moving

@TheTihm

7 жыл бұрын

james lee that sounds like a bearing issue (in the jackshaft).

Do you have to wait to put the clip on or can you do it before you put the assembly on the shaft I'm guessing it doesnt preload the spring if it isn't done after..??..

@TheTihm

3 жыл бұрын

Not following my order of operation will cause more problems, than ease, the "process".

Man i wish i saw this first instead of doing it all by hand

@TheTihm

3 жыл бұрын

Ya when I made this vid, there wasn't ANY (worthy) instructional vids, on the 'driven' part... figured the 'driver' was pretty much self explanatory.

hey, I know this an older video, hopefully you'll see this and be able to help me, I've got a gtc torque converter, which is the same model as the tav2 40 series, I have followed the steps on your video and everything seems to work fine at lower speeds. however when I reach top speeds of my bike anywhere around 30-33mph the driven unit pulls away from belt and allows it to slip. any idea why this is happening? under preloaded it?

@TheTihm

8 жыл бұрын

+Mitchell w Well... if the 'driven' is engaging 'too soon' (which is what it sounds like it's doing)... and it 'is' on a bike (considerably light weight compared to a kart) it's afew things it 'could' be... but... I dont know what you are running (engine/gearing/wheel size/terrain/etc) and dont know how old your setup is... also, Im not too familiar w/ the 40 series TC, mine is the 30 series. The 40 series TAV2 is a 'newer' setup and possibly has bugs to the design... dont know. However, TAV2 is a term used to explain that there is a 'factory' backplate affixed to the engine which houses the JackShaft for the Driven. The fact that you said a "40" TAV2 makes me think that they still havent worked out the bugs... again... 'dont know'. Of course, a CLEANING/maintenance is ALWAYS recommended when it doesnt work properly. A single grain of sand 'can' prevent the WHOLE unit from working properly. You asked... could it be loaded improperly? Doubtful, but normally an improperly preloaded Driven wont engage upon takeoff (on a kart)... 'may' on a lightweight vehicle but strongly doubt it. As I explained in the description, #1 and #3 are explained backwards on the vid... try resetting the Driven to the opposite side hole and see if it works for you? If you made a typo and actually have a 30 series... I can give a better possibility of troubleshooting possibilities. However, if it IS a 40 series... check out "Kartfab" he's the guy I goto to ask bout 40 series unit stuff.. ;-)

@xploitedyouth77

8 жыл бұрын

Ah man thank you so much for the fast response and the info. I did mistaken the number I do have a 30 series 1002 TC2. 3/4" Bore, 10 Teeth, #40/41 chain, Bolts onto 2-7 HP Engines. Fully Compatible with Comet* 218353A TAV2* 30 Torque Converter for Go Kart or Mini Bike Honestly don't know too much about all this stuff just getting into it, got mechanical knowledge but not for this stuff. I will definitely clean it tomorrow and give it another go, as you said it could just be dirt. I wasn't previously doing that before switching preset holes, I had changed it from the middle hole to a flat terrain and it was too loose for my likings so I switched back to the middle hole as it came. And then that's when the issues started happening. Again thank you for the info. I appreciate it.

@TheTihm

8 жыл бұрын

+Mitchell w Ah... kk np. Seeing as that it is a 30 series... it's possible the spring is worn. To somewhat give you a picture of what "I" see is happening... envision you're pedaling a BMX bicycle down a steep hill... eventually you get "just" faster than you can pedal... yet you still 'attempt' to pedal to get faster. You are the engine... your feet are the Driver... and evidently the rear sprocket/wheel is the rear wheel/Driven. Except in your case its sounds like just wear being an issue (not rpm). This is basically what it 'sounds' like is happening. It 'could' be either the Driver OR the Driven causing the problem, for you. FYI "Stock" Driven springs are red... yet the replacements are green (dont ask why). The spring 'may' be worn... which would explain it opening up too soon and causing the belt to loosen... going to flat/street setting is kinda hard on a spring, due to it engaging sooner... THAT would be by 'first' guess. Next, it could be the Driver unit not engaging enough or even at all, at the 30-33mph rpm (still dont know the calculated topspeed... www.diygokarts.com/speed-calculator.html ... (if like mine) stock engine is ~3600rpm stock governor in, ~5000rpm stock governor removed). This could be caused by being dirty and not opening the weights up all the way, compressing the 2 sheaves together "enough", OR ... the sliding sheave may be getting hung up/jammed on the 'hub'/slide... check for a burr(s) on the hub sheave slides and rails. There are afew other things that 'could&' cause the same issue... but if the ONLY thing you did was swap setting holes... those would be the first 2 things Id look at. FYI only way to tell if the Driven spring is worn is comparing it to a new one unfortunately... but their only ~10$, so its not much ;-)

@bradley1995

4 жыл бұрын

@@TheTihm wow dude! Way to help this guy! I'm subbing! Wisdom is power! Thanks for sharing!

So for hills counterclockwise or clockwise ? Stiffer springs is yellow stiffer than red?

@TheTihm

5 жыл бұрын

Hills in hole #1 (#3 in vid)... Same preload sequence... Yes yellow is stiffer n allows the driven to open at a higher rpm.

@alphamoto466

5 жыл бұрын

@@TheTihm is yellow the stiffest

@TheTihm

5 жыл бұрын

Ya... If you're needing more... I strongly suggest a 40 series TC.

@alphamoto466

5 жыл бұрын

@@TheTihm a spring from a 40 series? I cant fit a 40 series on a dirtbike

@TheTihm

5 жыл бұрын

@@alphamoto466 never said 40 series spring... N thx for the info bout ur bike.

What is the difference between all three holes which one has the highest top speed?

@richcar3434

4 жыл бұрын

As far as I've understood, none of the 3 holes will alter the top speed...what they will do, is slow down or speed up the low to high transition, and you can adjust this according to your needs...for example; if you have a minibike with a "high" horsepower engine, you'll want to choose the converter hole that "slowly" transitions into high gear. Otherwise you'll be the king of busted back, throw you off, wheelies!..(which is no fun and pretty embarrassing)..I've been there. ...that being said, I still dont know which hole gives you more spring resistance for a softer launch, so I hope someone can answer that.

@richcar3434

4 жыл бұрын

Ok, I read some more...so hole #3 gives the spring more resistance for a slower transition into high gear...and on down to #1, which will net the quickest transition from idle to wide open...(and my back breaking wheelies)

what is the advantage to using the street setting with less preload and what does it do?

@TheTihm

8 жыл бұрын

#1 setting (#3 in vid) is the setting that allows the driven to engage (open) under less of a load (sooner). Unless you live on flat/level ground, I recommend using #2 vs #1.

@Butters_Stunts

8 жыл бұрын

+Tihm Kart ok I'll find out and see tomorrow

I can't get the clip on, how did you do that?

@TheTihm

9 жыл бұрын

@109277734116986625862 First insure that the driven hub is pushed ALL the way on. Next, youll need a set of Retaining Ring Pliers to put it on easily. Hope this helps...?

Some of these comments are 3 to 6 years old hopefully I can get an answer I need some help. Mine is together never did anything with the spring all the pulleys line up but this thing is eating belts up. I may have put the lock nut on to tight when we had to change out the sprocket. Any ideas?

@TheTihm

3 жыл бұрын

Ensure the belt is 'wide side' towards engine (the arrows are at times printed backwards I've found). Also makesure the surface of each pulley is smooth n rust free. Use 400-600 grit paper to smooth out bumps/rust. A urethane sealer will lengthen the pulleys surface condition once smooth. The China belts are cheap n unravel easily... once the string gets exposed, use of "Flex seal" in the pop open can, "helps".

my tav goes to overdrive way too early and keeps my engine from hitting high rpm top end. any advice???

@TheTihm

8 жыл бұрын

W/out knowing details, I cant give an accurate diagnosis. Any or all of these things 'could' cause that problem: Could be the gearing... could be the spring is worn (Driven)... could be the engine is worn... could be the hole slot you put the spring in, was #1 and not #3... could be a fuel/carb/throttle issue... could be an assortment of things. Things that one wouldnt think was the issue, could actually be the problem... but like I said.... cant give a proper diagnosis w/out details ;-) A vid w/ commentary would be awesome! ;-)

@vtecbanger3180

8 жыл бұрын

+Tihm Kart engine is about 16 hp well built. tav2 is new and set to stock second hole. tires are tiny and rear sprocket is almost as big as the tire. it went 45mph with a clutch and stock engine. now I have the same engine with alot of goods invested including the valve train. should pull to 10k rpm but flat lines at 5k because the cvt shoots right to overdrive after the burnout

@TheTihm

8 жыл бұрын

OK... Then try moving the spring to hole #3. By doing so, the spring is given more torque and wont open "as" soon. ANOTHER option is going to the next stronger "yellow" spring ( www.bmikarts.com/Comet-Yellow-Spring-for-30-Series-Driven_p_1028.html ). A TAV2 is only rated to about 10hp tops (guessing your runnin a very modded clone?)... but I think the JS plate may have something to do 'that' rating. Dont know what 'goods' you purchased... but... If you are running 22+lbs springs and a larger carb (bout the only way to reach 10k rpm on a clone) the TAV isnt preventing you from reaching higher rpms. It would be your gearing vs hp/torque >5k rpms #PowerCurve. W/out knowing all the details... Id guess youre in need of a bigger cam for the engine. If youre running a stock cam... that "16hp" peaks at around 4k~4.5k rpm then nose dives, meaning at about 5k rpms the engine is no longer able to create enough torque/hp to accelerate any higher, because the weight/drag on the tires prevents the gearing to be rotated any faster, w/ the lackingness of torque/hp from the engine/Driver... (hope that makes sense to you?) If I were you... I would gear lower (less teeth on TC or more teeth on axle... or a smaller tire). Sometimes gearing lower w/ a higher rpm swap, will allow higher speeds... again... depending the torque/hp vs drag, at said rpm. W/out details I can ONLY hypothesize a guess... hope this was helpful?!?

@vtecbanger3180

8 жыл бұрын

+Tihm Kart very helpful. I can only try to find an 8 tooth front sprocket. the carb is vm22, springs are 28lbs, the cam is a mod2 with 1.3 rockers and rs pushrod guide. the reason I went with that stuff is because I use it for trail riding. I thought if I went with a bigger cam I may loose bottom end power. it's just strange to me the kart could go faster with clutch stock engine no governor.. it's gx200 clone. 197cc it has 10.5:1 compression I run 100 octane, arc rod, flywheel ect.

@TheTihm

8 жыл бұрын

The TC should compensate for the lowend loss. At 10k RPM... id find the highest cam available... or the 10k rpm is pointless.

I am having trouble with my wheels spinning when in idle. It even wants to turn the wheels when I pull the starter cord. This is my second torque converter and still can't seem to figure out how to get the belt to spin freely until more RPMs are applied. I do have the flat side of the belt facing the engine and my idle is dialed way down. Here is a video of my issue. Any advice would be great. kzread.info/dash/bejne/faB1yZNtmsrSm84.html

What if my driven doesn’t have any holes for adjustment?

@TheTihm

5 жыл бұрын

Then its not a "Comet"/knock-off brand "30 series" driven...

@IvanU90

4 жыл бұрын

Drill some

What happens if you don’t preload the spring

@TheTihm

4 жыл бұрын

It won't engage... it'll just there.

@ogs_cookieboy9328

4 жыл бұрын

Thank you