How the OBD2 performance chip power booster and ECU remap module works.
Turn your car into a ROCKET with this amazing device that reprograms your ECU for maximum torque while reducing fuel consumption. But only if you have a vivid imagination.
I actually love quack stuff like this. It's probably come from the same factories that made the clone ELM 327 diagnostic units, but have now turned their attention to the much more profitable bogus OBD tuners. The component cost is very low and the construction can be done on one thin single sided PCB.
Their operation is as follows. The 12V supply at the OBD2 port is used to derive a 5V supply to power a low cost microcontroller. The unit fakes communication with the cars ECU by flashing and then flickering the LEDs like an OBD2 diagnostic unit. In reality no communication is taking place because the unit is not capable of changing the state of the car's low impedance networks. Instead it just senses activity on them (if it even does that) to control LED activity. It's possible that the only reason the network pins are involved at all is to make the unit look plausible to an untrained eye. Although some cars can have some parameters changed via the OBD2 (On Board Diagnostics) port for easy dealer tweaks and the more extreme geeky re-tune garages, the concept of a single tiny device that can determine the brand, model, engine type and any subsequent manufacturer updates, then look up a chart with settings and limits and then somehow adjust the settings for efficiency based on the drivers style is somewhat debatable. It would be a very clever piece of software and the chance of it being found in a $3 dongle is low. There would also be the huge risk of literally bricking your car, and if it was being driven at the time that could be dramatic.
That's not to say that these units can't affect the performance of your car though. All it takes is a solder bridge or wrong component to totally take down a network and result in very odd behaviour. They also have a bit of a random current draw, possibly approaching nearly 100mA even when your engine is turned off, so some of them are pretty much the equivalent of leaving an interior light on 24/7.
That said, they achieve their intended purpose with aplomb, and have just enough tech to pass themselves off as plausible. Very much a worthy addition to your collection of dubious devices, especially if you pay less than $3 all in. Also a rather neat case and plug assembly that is begging for your own OBD project, whether that's a bus monitor, security bypass device (uh-oh) or simply a convenient source of a continuous 12V supply.
Here's a generic eBay search link. Target price is $3 or less:-
www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from...
Here are a couple of links to the KZread garage department to inspire you to get more intimate with your ECU.
South Main Auto. For Eric O's start to finish fault deduction.
/ @southmainauto
New Level Auto. For Keith's automotive fault investigations.
/ onboardtech333kmd
Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics.
/ motoyam82
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm
This also keeps the channel independent of KZread's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.
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I made my kids get out and walk, now my car is faster, uses less fuel and is a lot quieter.
The real scam is ....you made a 30 min video ....about this.
As a auto electrician of almost 13 years, learned everything from my old man which has been doing auto electrics from 16 years old and is 64 now and still going strong, the only possible way to make your car faster/increase horse power is Go fast strips from bonnet to boot (hood to trunk) and a spoiler big enough to be used a aeroplane wing, last but not least a exhaust pipe off of a scania.
Let's not completely overlook the possibility that it was no light show but was actually communicating with and increasing the horsepower of your bench supply.
Ooooo can I answer this one before I even watch? It does absolutely nothing
It works by tricking the driver into thinking they're getting better volumetric efficiency so well that they don't even bother to check. Truth over facts.
And suddenly Clive notices that his bench power supply is running more smoothly and producing more torque than ever before thanks to having connected that module.
If your plugging a £3 OBD device in you car your pretty much saying "My life's worth £3 and I trust Chinese electronics with my life."
This is what Americans call snake oil
Want extra horsepower? Paint some red flames on the hood
The fact these things do thier little "data" light show with just the power connected, but nothing else is amazing.
A viewer pointed me here, I just coincidentally released the same video! I didn't know you had already done it.
Clive, you're wondering about why some cars don't use CANbus. Keep in mind that OBD-II originally was a US standard, where all cars sold in the US from the 1996 model year forward were required to have the standard 16-pin port. At that time, CAN wasn't really a thing yet. The EPA recognized 3 or 4 different communication protocols at the time, because most automakers used protocols that were based on one of those 3. Most European cars used ISO9141, Also called "K-line" or KKL. And, in fact, most of them were using that protocol even before OBD-II, and as a result, with the right software and an adapter, my OBD-II cables will connect to older European cars. Most Asian cars used something based on another standard, Ford in the US used a protocol called Keyword 2000, and GM used another. The early OBD-II standards allowed for those 4 protocols, and established a common set of commands and trouble codes, plus a framework for manufacturer specific fault codes. Most of the rest of the world didn't really start using the OBD-II port until after CAN became the dominant standard, which was around the year 2000 in most cases. However, because the original standard in the US required those other protocols, they continue to be supported. Hence why you need 16 pins. I know that pins 4 and 5 are always grounds (negative terminal on a car) pins 7 and 8 are the K-Line pins for pre- CAN European cars, and pin 16 is always positive. There's one other pin that's also positive when the ignition is switched on, and the other pins are used with the assorted other protocols.
Imagine if Circuit Boards were actually this big at
Thank goodness these things
About 8 years ago I repaired the fuel tank on an early 60s VW Camper. When I was flushing it out I found what looked like silver "Mint Imperials" in the bottom of the tank - turns out these were lead additives that were put in the tank when leaded petrol was being phased out back in the 90s and had done precisely bugger all in the 12+ years they'd been in there! Air-cooled VW engines didn't have cast iron heads anyway so it was doubly useless.
Reminds me of those magnetic "Fuel Savers" you used to see a few years ago...
It's amazing i plugged it in before i went to bed in the morning i still had a full tank of fuel incredible.
I like how the packaging of the red one says it's for diesel cars but the device itself says it's for benzine ones.
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