I think she secretly gets me back by short roping me 🤔😂 Moral of the story is don’t let a few pieces of gear cost you your life. If you can’t retrieve it safely leave it behind.

@elyseperry8

Жыл бұрын

I would never…😏

I don't know what makes me more uncomfortable; the amount of times the belayer lets go with the brake hand or how he barks commands at her like she's a dog.

or you can just do the Mexican clean up, remove the quickdraw and take a whipper. Repeat all the way down on every bolt. You are welcome amigo

@hanneshertach8013

Жыл бұрын

I’ve heard that being called Russian rappelling here in Europe

Nice video! Just want to add that the risk of the belayer "flying out" of their untethered stance also happens in diagonal routes. Learned this the hard way with a friend some years back. Safe climbs!

Damn I'm not sure if I just missed some dry humour here but I honestly felt pretty uncomfortable at the repeated direct commands at the confused wife, vs slowing down explaining and doing things safely (could be a learning experience for viewers too) I hope I'm reading too much into it

@nullcomplex.

Жыл бұрын

I'm feeling the same. I would feel very uncomfortable if someone was speaking to me like this while I was learning a new skill.

Great video, the idea with clipping a biner to yourself to clean the overhang draws is handy, there is an overhang sport route in my area I have avoided curiousity until now

Difficult to be happy when you are stressed up with novelty and overwhelmed with tons of instructions without understanding exactly what is going to happen if you do or don't do something.

@BetaClimbers

Жыл бұрын

This sums it up perfectly!

@BetaClimbers

Жыл бұрын

She had no idea what was coming 😂

@DerKlappspaten

Жыл бұрын

That is precisely the reason why one should visit training courses instead of jumping into the deep end! After all your life literally depends on it.

What a charming guy!

Hi Josh! Something that you can do that you didn't mention to stop the draw from sliding down to your belayer, and also make it a bit less awkward when retrieving a draw, is to switch the trolley/tram *below* the piece before you take it down. That keeps you closer and means when you remove a piece it slides down onto the trolley and not all the way down.

good thing you did it at home, close to people and a call to the medical center :-)

Love your wife! The best things in life are the things we most take for granted 🙃

@BetaClimbers

Жыл бұрын

She is the best!

@wisconsinair

7 ай бұрын

Gaw she’s a saint. This video is so hard to watch with him barking at her and putting her down.

Good video, Mr Perry. A few little gems in there. Gems of send.

One QuickDraw costs less than one indoor climbing session. No big loss if one gets left behind.

@lucaslothbrook5388

Жыл бұрын

Exactly!!! And someone like me will pull it down same or next day 😆

Another way to clean the first bolt of an overhanging route or one that moves off left or right is to trolly down to it like you showed, then use one of those quickdraws to go from your belay loop into the gear side (biner that is into the hanger or gear) to put you in directly to that bolt. Put a little tension on that QD, release yourself from the trolly and release the belayer side rope from that 1st draw. You'll stay put at the 1st bolt while the belayer takes up the slack that is in there now. If the swing is clean and not into some large solid object or another bleayer go ahead and enjoy the swing, if not downclimb the last few moves on TR. If you can't downclimb it your belayer can throw you the tail end of the rope or something else. I've been doing it this way for a few years now and it has worked out well, especially since I have about 50 pounds on my usual belayer. This also works if you are planning to leave the 1st bolt clipped for another run or your partner to lead it without needing to stick clip it between climbs. Clip into the 1st bolt biner with another draw, release the belayer's end of the rope, clip in properly to the 1st draw, release the additional draw, then pull the rope through from your end. You'll have a properly clipped 1st draw for the next go.

If the rope above the prusik was cut, wouldn't it slide through the prusik knot and now you're attached to nothing?

Sometimes you you loose some Quickdraws on the route sometimes you win some QuickDraws on on the route. I have lost some carabiners and draws when had to bail but also I found some draws and carabiners from others that bailed

giga Jul is a lot easier to lower with when you use your left hand in the thumb loop to control speed and use your right hand to add friction to brake strand

@BetaClimbers

Жыл бұрын

I’m going to have to make a video” zero to hero with the jul” staring Elyse 🤣

@MisterClimber

Жыл бұрын

@@BetaClimbers jul is king, I ship them plz do it

@MisterClimber

Жыл бұрын

@@BetaClimbers jul is king, I ship them plz do it

crossloading the figure 8? have fun opening again.

when I bail i usually just pot the rope trough the spit hole and rapell down... I use some skiny ass beeners on my "zelb" exactly for these reason so he rope and the beener could both fit in the whole of the spit :). what do you guys call "zelb" btw ? zelb is the auto ensure rope tied to your harnest. we call it zelb in Romania...

This is exactly why I free climb. In my dreams.😂

I might be wrong but aren't hollow blocks rated pretty low? So maybe make a prussik out of something else in case you actually do fall?!

@BetaClimbers

Жыл бұрын

Yepp that’s right.

@marcushill78

Жыл бұрын

Can't you use a traxion or similar instead of a prussik?

@BetaClimbers

Жыл бұрын

@@marcushill78 trax aren’t rated for falls either but I’d bet it would work. Especially if your belayer isn’t feeling extra slacky. You would just swing. 🤔

Mr Perry, Sir! I tell people a bail carabineer is the best safety equipment when leading. Why be sketchy? 😂 Also I have been thinking about gear recovery with a stick clip and a PAS; Say, 4 bolts up and need to bail. Lower to 3rd bolt, PAS in, Use stick clip to remove 4th bolt quick draw, Take!/Test/remove PAS, Lower to 2nd bolt, Repeat process What do you think Sir!

@BetaClimbers

Жыл бұрын

Lol guess it depends on the bail-biner 😂 Always on belay…so sounds good to me! Sounds kinda like what I said at the end but In reverse lol

@ClimbingEasy

Жыл бұрын

@@BetaClimbers Better then just the bolt lolol. But yes exactly, the only issue was having the stick clip up on lead lol. Edit: the lead has a tiny throw line; so if a bail occurs, the leader PAS into nearest bolt, tosses throw line to belayer, belayer attaches stick clip, leader hauls stick clip, then repeat previous process. I know they make a device that will retrieve a quick draw...

When I need new draws I just hit gumby crags.

@BetaClimbers

Жыл бұрын

Climbing hack

Not leaving gear kit- 20ft stick clip, Jamar, pulley, Trax.

3:08 looks more like she's saying "how did I get stuck with this slacker taking unnecessary risks for comfort? I need a man who wears a helmet on rope."

I tried the mega juul and even got used to its operations. It's manageable, but never felt that smooth to me. Definitely finicky. The giga juul was a bit better, but still kinda meh?

@bullfrogboss8008

5 ай бұрын

On the opposite side of the green plastic thumb loop there is small vertical hole in the mega Jul. Clip a wire gate carabiner into this hole and boom, you have a nice grigri style lever that makes smooth lowering easier. This together with controlling the loose rope side with your other hand and a little bit of practice makes lowering with mega jul surprisingly smooth

Helmet Gang ⛑️

Clipping into the knot on the harness like that is essentially using a flat figure 8. Which isn't a life supporting knot. Would have been better to go directly to the belay loop. I don't think it really a big issue here but not something you should be showing people on the internet.

@BetaClimbers

Жыл бұрын

Yeah good point, a bit sloppy I don’t mind it with a stopper knot over it and using it for direct clipping in this context. Using it as let’s say a anchor wouldn’t be ugly for sure. Thanks

@marcushill78

Жыл бұрын

In trad climbing in the UK we belay off the rope loop all the time.

@thematthewbox

Жыл бұрын

@@marcushill78 you should loop up some pull tests of the flat figure 8. It rolls scary low.

@raphaelbeinhauer9242

Жыл бұрын

@@marcushill78 But is'nt that when you also build your anchor with your rope? That would mean that the loop isn't ring loaded, but just loaded normally.

she was not happy :) just like my wife, haah.

@BetaClimbers

Жыл бұрын

😂😂😂 yeah doesn’t like the camera much! 🤣

You can also use a small cordelette instead of the carabiner, and if you get creative and the route is not too long, you can even recover the cordelette. (EDIT based on @Jamenfaendah comment: this is only intended for abseiling, not for being lowered!)

@BetaClimbers

Жыл бұрын

Right on I have done that before, just got to prevent any rope on rope 🤙🏻

@lregoli

Жыл бұрын

@@BetaClimbers Sure, the rope will be fine (it's sliding, so it doesn't really get hot). The cordelette, on the other hand, can only be used a handful of times. You get creative when you are a student on a pasta with pesto diet. One lost carabiner means a few weeks with no pesto!

@Jamenfaendah

Жыл бұрын

No this is very dangerous!! Getting lowered over a sling or other soft materials will break said material, and it doesn't matter if your rope is fine or you saved some bucks if you are dead. You can find a lot of videos about rope on rope and a study about this exact problem from the German mountaineering magazine Bergundsteigen shows that a 11.5 single rope will burn through a 10(!) mm (probably PA kernmantel) sling in 5.5 meters! www.bergundsteigen.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/26-28-ablassen-ist-nicht-abseilen.pdf Abseiling from a sling is fine, being lowered is not. Maybe you have some great way to prevent rope on rope while being lowered, but leaving this alone as advice is IMO not very good.

@lregoli

Жыл бұрын

@@Jamenfaendah 100% agreed. What I said only applies if you are abseiling. Even a short distance of rope-on-rope drag while being loaded will cut through the sling. I should have clarified that, good catch!

Talk to your Mrs with no respect talking down to her like she can idiot when knowing it's her first to, e belaying someone's health and well-being