Kudos for seeing the job done to the end. I am on my third trip to the dealership for some warranty transmission work. My patience is running thin. It couldn't have been a better time for you to post this video. Keep up the good work, Brian.

What I like most about these videos. Is your demeanor. Never pissed

You're welcome- great to hear from you.

Kudos for the positive attitude after all said and done, I would have been cursing the hell out of it

This was awesome! thank you. I'll be tearing down again in the morning. Replacing a shredded timing belt today was quite a task - to say the least. It was my first time and I'm happy to say that it actually started and ran down the road. It idled pretty low but smooth and even stalled one time - so I must be close - just not close enough. I know that the timing belt alignment is off, as I notice that TDC was difficult to achieve especially when you try to align the cranks with a 12mm. I know I'm off a little. The great thing is that all the bolts will come off easy next time. Your demonstration would have saved me a lot of time. I found a yeehaw on youtube who kinda had it right but was missing the screwdrive/dillbit TDC trick on the cams. I wish I seen it myself, but it started raining around the time I was mounting the belt- kinda hurry a little bit in the rain. Thank you. I'll try to stop back to let you know how I made out.

@thenite187

10 жыл бұрын

Worked great! Thank you. It took a 3/16" drill bit each to hold the two cams with a little play. The Crank didn't line up as perfect by the guide line and arrow, but close enough. It runs smooth with an idle 500 RPM. This video really helped out a lot. 10 hours on the first run, and after watching this, it took only 4 hours - includes an oil change.

@thenite187

10 жыл бұрын

Kirk Frederick oh, and the spring on the tensioner seems to pull an adjuster back to loosen it as the tensioner bolt is loosened. As you tighten it the adjuster moves into position and pulls the timing belt tight. You really don't have to pry against the tensioner at all - it works all by itself by design and works great. It's actually a brilliant work of engineering.

Thanks and thanks for the feedback.

Just got around to seeing this and I must say great work in both the vid and your meticulous explanation of the procedure

Thank you very much! I just read some troll comments- it's nice to get positive feedback like this.

It's good to know we still have pod and honest people out in the world:) thanks so much sir.

I had a REALLY stuck one recently. Let me see if I have any footage from that. They're supposed to just pull off by hand. I had to weld nuts on the face of the above mentioned one and use a bolt puller to get it off.

I just snug it up to make sure all of the slack is out and then let the spring hold the tension. Then tighten the bolt and then twist the longest run from the cam to the crank gears and make sure it can't turn more than 90 degrees.

i learn so much from you mate ! thankyou!

Great video man! Thanks for posting this, and I am glad you got this working for the owner!

These more advanced repairs are great, Brian. You addressed a question I've always wondered about. Is it fair to say that the tight side is found by learning which way the engine rotates, then observing that power comes from a pulling action from the crank (on the tight side)? Is your point that the tight side is always to the front a reliable rule?

Nice video covered all the things amateurs need to know. The one that I think would be challenging to change is the chains on newer Honda's because you have to deal with cam timing vvt adjuster and the oil pressure tension ratchet adjuster. All good stuff to digest before you even pop the cover. Mostly you find these on K series engines.

Great video as always. Thanks. Are the CRV's pretty good cars. I realize it's a Honda. But are there any model specific issues? Been thinking of getting a CRV. Thanks

lol Looks like you've been busy- hopefully having a good time!

Dude you would be my mechanic in a heartbeat if I lived in your neck of the woods!

Thank you for your time

I replaced my timing belt on my 2001 CRV. It had 187,000 miles and still looked brand new. The way Honda recommends installing the timing belt is to have the crank and cams spot timing, pin the cams, then wrap the timing belt around the crank, then around the tensioner (tightened to full relaxed position) the water pump, then partly onto the exhaust cam taking all slack from exhaust cam to crank. then slip onto the intake cam. Then you rotate the crank counter clockwise 6 full turns and stop on your timing mark . check to make sure cams are on timing marks. Loosen tensioner bolt, turn crank counter clockwise to bring slack to tensioner side 3 notches of the crankshaft and then tighten the tensioner bolt.

for a dohc engine after putting timing belt back at first im getting resistance to turn from crank 6 oclock postion. i mean when in tdc im turning from crank at 6 oclock. so from 6 to one quarter of movement i need to put some force to make it spin but after that it spins easily till it finds resistance again. i may be wrong but im feeling a little hard to move it from 6 oclock tdc. is this because of valves spring tension? i have spark plugs off and accesory belt off too. i already changed the oil but not the filter yet i made sure my cams were lubricated too. before putting belt i rotated crankshaft 90 degrees so it would not damage my valves and rotated both cams with no problems and make sure the crank rotated also before putting my cylinder head. thanks for any suggestions. the car is a daewoo 2001 leganza. thank you!

Love the Ron Paul poster!

Brian, i used to have a Kawaski Z-1, and the cam chain was installed by counting the teeth from intake to exhaust to be sure the cams were timed properly

Great detailed video for the crv timing belt I would have liked to actually see you pull apart the Waterpump and belt though

I haven't use a machine shop for a subaru job like this since.... yesterday. And that was the third one this month.

Just changed a timing belt on a x14xe Astra g. Markings are aligned and tension is correct. The tensioner pointer shakes a bit while the engine is running. Is this normal?

Nice job. I've got a 2008 CRV that I was adjusting the valves on and decided to do a compression check because it had been missing. 3 cylinder head 190 PSI but number two was only a hundred and twenty. It had been setting a check engine light for p0172 which is rich exhaust or fuel trim reading. I would assume the exhaust valve is leaking which would be consistent with both of those conditions. I've done a ton of research online but haven't really found any problems like this on the 2007 through 2011 CRV like they had on the earlier model CRV. Since you're a Honda technician I wonder if you've heard of valve problems on this later model? Thanks again for your great write-up

Awesome video. Very thorough and detailed. Thanks for this vid.

wish you would have shown how to get the crankshaft pulley off

I've seen this problem with first gen CR-Vs. Then I did this job for a friend, the cam was actually lose and I was able to turn it with my hand. So I think that tight cam pulley was caused by the tight exhaust valves. The car I worked on burned the exhaust valve at 120K miles - couple of years later after replacing the timing belt. The way I like to set the belt tensioner is to put it and and bend the cloth hanger and use it to hook the spring end and pull into the position.

Also, thanks for all the great videos!

Brian, you're my only hope. I did a timing belt on a 96 integra. Pretty much the same motor. I line up the timing marks for the crank using the oil pump housing, I put them dead on with the cams. I locked the cams in place with drill bits, the works. But, the harmonic balancer TDC mark was off by a bit. I ran it, didn't bend any valves so it's not off by much, but I have all sorts of misfire codes. Can I adjust the timing with the distributor or do I need to go back and line up the balancer?

great video / good lighting

Another great, informative video!

I do try to. Thanks for noticing ; )

Love the video. Question: Aren't you supposed to get the crank marks exact or are you have going' to adjust the distributor to get the timing dead on. I am doing the timing belt on this exact engine right now and can't get the marks to line up either but always thought you could. I wondered if there is a way around not having the crank marks exact. Please help!

Nice video . Good for other B series Acura / Honda engine like Integra B18B engine too. Your method of setting the tensioner is not quite what the manual describes but it obviously works. However, I followed the method in the manual . Thanks for making for these very helpful automotive repair videos.

Excellent video Brian...keep it up

Could be burned valves, blocked catalytic converter, egr valve stuck open, fuel filter restriction etc.

what is the average cost of what your doing new water pump, tensioner, belt

hey briansmoblie1 i was looking at buying a 98 honda crv. the dude selling it it saying it has a flat spot and needs max advanced timing to run. any ideas? thanks Troy

Doesnt get any better than that. Thanks !!

I subscribed because of the Ron Paul poster.

GREAT JOB MY BROTHER!!!!!

W up bro where can got good timer belt kit and the crankshaft sensor where can got good parts my Honda CR-V 2000 ex 5 speed foot Joe bro thank you video

do the cam pinholes hold the cams in position when putting the timing belt on?

Hi Brian! Great job!!!!! How can you tell that the timing belt tension is correct at this one? There is no pointer or similar. Manuals tell you to use expensive tools for tension setting... So confused.. Thanks

Thank you for replay.. but what if a other make car has no spring? You use 90 degrees rule? Thanks

GM side post batteries can be a PITA. Clean the battery cables and remove the cable boots checking for corrosion. Also check the main body ground and the engine block ground as well. There is a possible that the alternator exciter wire was damaged or that the wreck was enough to damage something inside of the alternator. Autozone and O'Reiley can not check the Ecotec alternators for some reason. P.S. If the headlight attaches to a plastic headlight header it is very likely broken.

Very helpful video.

what will happen if you put belt on wrong ? and how to fix it ?

How likely is it to find these problems on used CRVs? like a 10 year old 120K miles CRV...

If you want a general rule it's this. Whichever side has the tensioner is the slack side. Whichever doesn't is the slack side. You'll find there's usually one side that's a straight shot from the crank to the cam. That will always be your tension side.

I just did my timing belt on my 1997 Honda CRV rotated at six times with tensioner loose top dead center I tighten the tensioner should I have backed it off three three teeth on the gear then tighten it like you say I will I be okay I just don't want it to jump time any help would be greatly appreciated

Even with the cam timing off a bit, one other way to check if it was cam timing or a valve problem would have been (with #4 at TDC), check that the valves for that cylinder weren’t being held open - even back off the adjusters until you have some play in the rockers - then repeat your test. If it’s still leaking air, it’s not cam timing.

Brian, couldn't you bring the head to a machine shop for a valve job or would you just go for a recond. one?

It didn't hit the piston, but it did help it to not close all the way and burn up the valve.

GMB generally work very well on these.

Continuation- would a minor fender bender cause the alternator to "malfunction" it split into two parts but ill have to take another look it was dark (just now) and i was getting flustered, i was looking at pictures of a 03 cavalier alternator and it seems like mine has a bigger gap some wheres on the alternator, just wondering what your take on it was??

amazing how little power it takes

Brian i got another quick question, i got in a very minor fender bender, the day before (it was there fault) the girl ran into my driver side bumper, all it did was crack the bumper and broke the head light, but after that the charging light came on and off so i tested it the battery was good at12.5 volts but when i started it up it dropped to 12, and then when i turned the blower and head lights on it went down to 11.5 11.8 and stayed there, the alternator was fine before it.....

Good work

Thanks!

They're pretty decent if you service them right.

Could the engine being out of time by one tooth on the cam have caused the valve to contact the cylinder and damage it?

I have an unrelated question. Do you use an impact wrench? I don't recall ever seeing you use one.

Great video!

Good job bro

Any big job that I spent hundreds in parts and machining I bill at least that or half the total up front if it's someone is unestablished with me, or if I really don't want the car or if anything warrants it. That way if they die, cut bait, or whatever I don't feel it financially. It's an anxiety/stress thing for me, but it's almost never needed. Just a comfort with some commitment.

YEAH!

Welcome

Since Honda's use a CVCC engine design with interference. It it possible the timing belt broke or the tech put it in wrong the first time to break the valve?

what is your opinion on drive by wire throttles?

Do you need a special tool to remove the crankshaft pulley? Would you recommend Genuine Honda for any parts or will aftermarket last the 7 years and 105k?

@thenite187

10 жыл бұрын

Actually no.. The trick is loosening the bolt. I imagine there is a tool out there somewhere, but is it worth the one-time-use-tool. I just took off the flywheel cover (small black plate with 4 10mm bolts and 1 17mm bolt) just left of the engine. You notice there are hole that you can just fit a small flat head screw drive, then advance the flywheel counterclockwise until you can wedge the screw drive against an engine part - then go ahead and loosen the crankshaft pulley bolt. I had to use 5' pipe on the end of my 1/2 drive socket wrench to crack it loose. It tool a lot of power to do it too. Once it broke loose the bolt came out and the pulley just slides off. No pulley puller required. Just make sure you don't lose the small 1/8"x1/8"x3/8" pulley key or you'll be very mad at yourself. Good luck.

Are you going to replace the cylinder head or just the bad valve?

Go back in and re set the timing belt properly. This time make sure all your slack is on the tensioner side and the other side has the belt tight.

Hi, do you know what year that CRV you are working on is?

Brian you do great work bro! A true professional...

just watching this i feel so frustrated. you go to all that work and fix things that need to be fixed and believe it will solve the problem and it turns out you have been foiled!!! but seriously, u do good work.

Thanks

Great and funny vid!

Here it's illegal to "break the horizon" with them or basically you can't aim them at the sky for whatever reason. I don't know why.

Like the G.W.B #43 poster

Amen with some exceptions. They pay one good guy top $ to stay and baby sit all the others.

OMG, Brian, I thought you were going to open it up and find out they put the belt on inside out. I've seen dealers make some pretty dumb mistakes. Of course the customer probably wouldn't have made it out of their parking lot but that would have been hilarious.

I wish I knew those cam pin holes were there a year ago, nice info. BTW... Water pump- I was told "only buy a Honda replacement or else it will leak." After researching, that is not entirely true. You can buy a no-name replacement, but it MUST be from the country of manufacture (in this case Japan, NOT China). Reason being the tiny difference in metal content causes different rates of thermal expansion/contraction in comparison to the block, resulting in a leak. Just thought I would share.

@DobermansRock

5 жыл бұрын

Never heard that but it makes sense. Especially with aluminum that is super sensitive to heat.

Hey. On this vehicle, is there a way to pull of just the belt cover to check the belt itself for wear instead of pulling off the whole valve cover? The reason I am asking is I am looking to buy one this weekend and the seller says the best has recently been changed but has no paperwork to prove it. I want to check it out without messing up the valve cover gasket.

@briansmobile1

9 жыл бұрын

They made it so you have to take off the valve cover in order to make you set up for valve adjustment at the same time. It's possible, but you'll break things.

@MyAccountBitch

9 жыл бұрын

I figured. Lame. Thanks though.

you wont re-use head studs right ?

I hate that led flashlight.It washes out the picture so we can't see.The laser pointer mucho better..Doesn't that camera have a light on it? I bet you get alot of business working on cars since u been online doing these videos. You are detail oriented and that's what i like in a mechanic/technician...

What year model is this car...?

Those cam pins sure are a slick idea. I wouldn't worry about the marks as long as the bars are up before pins are in. This should be done every 100K and never put off replacing the water pump when you have it this far down. Also make sure to drain and flush your Honda cooling system at its earliest interval recommended in the owners Manual or I would say once a year or cycle of seasons. This is to slow the decay that occurs on the aluminum from the breakdown of your coolant. Have a deuce running like shit? Do the whole seafoam treatment. That stuff is not a gimmick. Get around the folks with big boats for going out deep sea fishing or that kind of watercraft. They use the stuff a lot. Its not that fake octane booster BS. Seafoam knocks out a lot of carbon buildup and varnish. Heard knocking valves go silent with it. It gets my backing for any gear head to use.

The cam timing problem must have been introduced later. It could not have damaged just one cylinder.

I know this is a very old video but I have a question. does this engine have close tolerance between valves and pistons? If it were to jump time can the valves smack the pistons???

@19580822

4 жыл бұрын

Yes they can. The term is an "interference" engine. I learned that the hard way when my timing belt broke!

@MegaChuck51

4 жыл бұрын

@@19580822 I learned it the hard way with a KZ1000.

I bet there's some Subaru guru's in Oregon. Check some of the Subaru forums- you'll find a good one.

I am a tech at a local Honda dealer here and almost every first gen CRV I have seen will eventually need a Head or complete Motor. Putting a brand new Head on a motor with 100 to 200k miles isnt good for the bottom end. Hence a complete engine replacement. Problem is that buying a used engine you run the risk of the same problem happening soon after replacement. Honda just had a poor design with the valve train on the B20 series engines.

yep.

hi,, I have a question my friend just bought a Honda crv 2004 and the guy who sold the vehicle told him that the timing belt didn't need to be replaced because it was a chain belt.. but im jus watching in this video that is a regular timing belt, can you tell me at how many miles is this belt supposed to be replaced

@michaelmayo7987

9 жыл бұрын

Vladko Rod---The '04 CR-V has a timing chain. It's not normally considered a "maintenance item", but rather is replaced when it is suspected to be defective or becoming that way. I originally thought this video was about an '04 because of the title, but when I viewed the video it was obvious it was a Gen 1 CR-V.

@vladkorod736

9 жыл бұрын

ok ,, thank you very much!!

I want a video response or it wouldn't happen.

Could be.

You bet!