Kandungan video sangat baik, tahniah

why do the wheels look massive are they a funny size or is the body really small for a 1/8??

Is that normal when you hear that chimmy noise on idle? I think its the pullstart not using a one way bearing. Good engine so far i use 20 vp fuel.

@jasongouw274

2 жыл бұрын

The slight metal "ringing" sound you hear on idle are the clutch shoes barely tapping the clutch bell. When engine RPM increases the clutch shoes will fully engage with the bell housing. It is a normal sound in this case.

How much of the spring can you see on the screws for the spring tension for the two speed?

@jasongouw274

Жыл бұрын

If you’re not hearing the shift it’s because the stock clutch is not strong enough for the engine so you won’t hear the engine bog down after the shift (due to the clutch slipping slightly). Either reverse the clutch shoes to increase its angle of attack and “bite” or upgrade to metal clutch shoes. Once you do either of these, you’ll hear the shift point.

Cool video I'm debating wether to buy one.. what is the top speed you would think it does?

@jasongouw274

3 жыл бұрын

Thank you! It is an amazing car for the price, I couldn’t find another nitro on-road in its class for the price point. Quality is solid all around. Top speed out the box is roughly 50mph but that is due to the stock clutch slipping the entire time (you won’t even hear it go into 2nd gear). I talk about this in the video and about reversing the stock clutch shoes to get more bite. You’ll pick up more speed and hear it shift to 2nd this way as it won’t slip anymore. I’m on the tallest gearing now (I think 2 or 3 teeth up from stock). Top speed on 25% and a good tune is 70+ mph easy. The Habao.30 engine is a beast. I also have their Cage Truggy with the same engine. Absolute beast and comes with a 3 needle carb if you really want to dial in your tune throughout throttle positions.

@KayezTP

3 жыл бұрын

@@jasongouw274 reverse the clutch? As in put them on the other way round?

@jasongouw274

3 жыл бұрын

@@KayezTP that’s correct. Reversing clutch shoes in this way will cause the clutch to bite harder and sooner. In the case of this car, it was the only way to get the clutch to fully engage on stock setup since the power of the .30 overpowers the stock composite clutch shoes. I eventually upgraded the entire clutch assembly with 4 shoe clutch and detents for adjusting spring tension.

@KayezTP

3 жыл бұрын

@@jasongouw274 I’ll give it a try as I’m having the same issue with my clutch not shifting. Running Mac 28. Everything stock.

@jasongouw274

3 жыл бұрын

@@KayezTP great, that could most definitely be the issue. Keep me posted once you get a chance to run it that way.

Nice video ! Just bought mine nitro VT, but not receveid yet. How have reverse the cluth system please ? My english is poor and i don't understand everything.... Have you change to another clutch ? Thanks !

@jasongouw274

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you! It is a very fun and fast car if you like on-road. One thing I found was that the stock fuel line was much too small - not enough fuel flow. So this required a much richer needle setting to even get the engine started / running. Highly recommend changing the fuel lines to larger ones. Yes, if you want the transmission to shift you will need to reverse the stock clutch shoes. The stock clutch has 3 shoes, you will have to remove them and install it so they point the other way. This will provide more gripping power for the clutch. Eventually I did upgrade the entire clutch assembly to a 4-shoe clutch. This one: bit.ly/3EI0h2f. And also this clutch assembly has different springs and tension settings so it can be tuned for various engagement rpm and grip pressure. Hope that helps! Have fun!

@Nozzor1

2 жыл бұрын

@@jasongouw274 THANK YOU for your nice and complete reply ! ;) But i've a bad news from my hobby store: they refund me because the car is in back order for unknow time, and it's seem to be permanently... I've look everywhere on the net... My bad... But thanks again, perhaps one day... ;)

@jasongouw274

2 жыл бұрын

@@Nozzor1 I'm sorry to hear that. It seems that there are a lot of global supply chain issues right now especially when related to parts that require electronics, etc. I hope you will find one soon. It will be worth it!

@Nozzor1

2 жыл бұрын

@@jasongouw274 Found two days ago ) 80% kit. Bougt with alpha 0.28 motor and good servos ;) Will be delivered TODAY !

@jasongouw274

2 жыл бұрын

@@Nozzor1 very nice! That is great to hear and you will have additional enjoyment assembling the last bit of the kit. Congrats on the find!

Hi how long you can play with the nitro car? Can you play 20 minutes straight?

@jasongouw274

2 жыл бұрын

It depends on the size of the tank and how hard you're driving it. A full tank lasts 10-15 minutes but I refuel several times before it runs out of fuel (no need to restart the engine each time). I usually run the engine uninterrupted for 1+ hour this way - going through 5-6 tanks of refills.

@DGM_Creative

2 жыл бұрын

Wow 1 hour is long,,, i thought it's gonna be overheat in 20 minutes like the electric RC

@jasongouw274

2 жыл бұрын

@@DGM_Creative I love nitros because of that - just keep the tank full and it’ll keep running. If the engine is tuned properly and you’re running proper fuel, overheating is not an issue. I have had not-so-well-built (cheaper) nitro cars where running it for 20+ minutes causes other plastic parts to fail on the car or driveline, but the engine is fine with a good tune. Have fun!

@DGM_Creative

2 жыл бұрын

I Subscribe man,, appreciate it

Great video I watched it a few times getting mine sorted How small were your stock fuel lines? Mine are 5mm internal diameter. I was going to change them seeing your video

@jasongouw274

Жыл бұрын

Thank you! Yea, the stock fuel lines were waaayyy too small. I can barely get the engine started for break-in at the recommended "rich" needle settings - it ran super lean from the constricted fuel lines. I switched the stock lines to something much larger and have been using the larger lines since with no issue.

The only bad thing about it is that it is so loud!

What’s your tune now I can’t get mine right

@jasongouw274

3 жыл бұрын

Woodruffryder_Dbb Woodworks79 I am running my own fuel blend with 0% Nitro so the tune will be much different if you’re running regular nitro fuel. I will say that this engine has a long need carburetor so the sequence for proper tuning is adjust: 1. Low speed, 2. High speed, 3. Low speed. After this initial tune, run it around for a few minutes to get it up to temp and fine tune again starting with LSN - HSN - LSN. Also make sure that the idle stop screw gives you a throttle barrel opening gap of about 0.5mm - 0.8mm. You can leave the mid speed needle about flush until you have everything else dialed in. Glow plug heat range can also be a factor. What % fuel are you running and what’s the weather temperature where you’re at?

@woodruffryder_dbb

3 жыл бұрын

Cool thanks yea this car is a beast I know once it’s dailed in it’s going to wake up even more I have to adjust the 2 speed I just noticed the set screw is turned all the way in so I’ll play with that one I get it running good

@jasongouw274

3 жыл бұрын

@@woodruffryder_dbb Absolutely, this car is ridiculously fast and fun to drive! Out of the box I couldn't get the 2nd gear to shift no matter the adjustment on the gears. It turned out to be the stock composite clutch shoes were not strong enough to handle the engine power so it was "slipping" almost the entire time. I reversed the engine clutch shoes which give them more bite and gripping power and was able to immediately hear the 2nd gear shifts. If you're experiencing the same you might want to try reversing the clutch shoes (engine clutch not transmission clutch) or upgrading to aluminum shoes at some point. Here's a detailed writeup I did on adjusting the 2 speed transmission on the VT. It uses a clutch-type transmission which is less common, more sensitive to adjust, but more "tune-ability": www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?3657699-Clutch-Type-2-Speed-Transmissions-how-they-work-and-how-to-properly-set-them%21

@jasongouw274

3 жыл бұрын

I forgot to mention that the stock fuel line on the Hyper VT is way too constricting at that length. I had to set my HSN about 5.5 turns out to even get it start the first time. I ended up changing the fuel lines to larger diameter and HSN is in the proper range of 2.5 - 3 turns out.

@woodruffryder_dbb

3 жыл бұрын

Just watched the video again now where did you order the new clutch shoes from I can’t wait to get this thing to shift cuz it rips in first 💨💨💨😭

easy spare parts?

@jasongouw274

2 жыл бұрын

Haven't had any issues getting spare parts. I get them directly from Habao which has stock in US warehouse so shipping is decently quick. Ebay also has a lot of parts available.

Your a little rich, if your not breaking in your engine you should go more lean.

Hello at 20:20 in this tuning vid, he explains that the mixture control valve (mid range needle as some call it) allows more fuel in with counter clockwise rotation like the other needles. But you are saying it’s the opposite. What’s your take on his reasoning? kzread.info/dash/bejne/rICl2cxtYbSYibQ.html

@jasongouw274

Жыл бұрын

@hellfire08 great question and definitely an area without a lot of information on the internet. So the midrange screw is not a needle valve at all. Instead, it moves the position of the needle/jet orifice toward the center of the venturi or toward the outside (closer to the venturi wall). Now, the needle/jet orifice is where fuel enters the venturi when air flows past due to the venturi effect. The higher the airflow, the more fuel is drawn. Now, a fluid (such as air and yes air is a fluid) flows fastest at the center of a pipe and slowest at the pipe walls. This is due to friction of the walls mostly (re fluid dynamics). So when we adjust the midrange screw to make the orifice at the center of the airflow, it will draw the most fuel. Now, we have to consider the fact that the throttle barrel moves in and out (assuming slide barrel carb) so this alters the geometry of the “pipe” and thus altering the relative position of the orifice. As an example, if we adjust to make the orifice dead center at WOT, then the fuel curve would skew to be most rich at WOT and most lean at idle (bc at WOT the orifice is center in the tube and getting max airflow ie venturi effect and at idle the orifice is not even inline with the airflow thus yielding the least venturi effect. If we position the orifice center at 1/2 throttle, the the fuel curve would skew leaner at idle - richest at 1/2 throttle - then leaner again at WOT. In conclusion, the midrange screw is not a valve like the LS or HS but it allows us to tweak the position of the fuel orifice to optimize leaner/richer mixtures at varying throttle positions. I use the midrange adjustment to fine tune and smooth out engine performance at partial throttle. It’s also not a precise adjustment like HS or LS. Use the midrange adjust to smooth out your partial throttle response. Hope this helped shed some light! Again, great question!

@hellfire08

Жыл бұрын

@@jasongouw274 thanks for the response. So for break in, you recommend turning the midrange valve clockwise half turn? I need to watch your vid again. Also for the gear on the clutch bell, is it normal threads? I just tried to remove mine and it seems like it’s really on there. Also I just received my VT and decided to inspect the engine internals before running it. Glad I did because their was quite a bit of metal shavings and what appeared to be 15-20 grands of SAND in the exhaust port of the block and some on top of the piston. No idea how that got in there but glad I caught it.

@jasongouw274

Жыл бұрын

@@hellfire08 for break-in you can leave the midrange where it is but I highly recommend changing the fuel lines to something larger (read my description notes). The stock lines were so small and quite a bit of length that it required opening HS +2 turns over factory recommended just to get it to start and still ran lean (not sure if Habao upgraded fuel lines with more recent versions). As far as the allen screw that keeps the clutch assembly down, I believe it’s normal thread. Might just have a little loctite from factory. I wrap the flywheel with a towel then grab it with channel lock pliers. Then I use a good quality metric Allen wrench to unscrew the Allen bolt counterclockwise. Great that you checked engine internals and cleared out manufacturing debris!

@hellfire08

Жыл бұрын

@@jasongouw274 yeah I got the gearing changed. It was normal threaded. I got about 8 tanks through it and it’s running good. Also The fuel lines on mine seem to have normal inner diameter so I’m not going to change them. I’m also not concerned about the length. In fact, a lot of racers run longer fuel lines than necessary because it allows the car to run longer upside down in case it flips over and has no negative effects on the engine in normal running conditions. I just had one more question, what kind of adapter are you using on the torch to warm the head? Is it some kind of indirect flame heating adapter? I couldn’t find anything like it for sale. Thanks

@jasongouw274

Жыл бұрын

@@hellfire08 I used a propane heat gun. The make is Titan model 51886. It's really a 4 burner jet that's shrouded so the flames are not exposed. If you search for "Propane heat gun" you might find some other models. It's been great preheating the engines this way - makes starting much easier and less wear on the engine.

The third screw you called the midrange needle isn't that at all it's the fuel spray bar adjustment it has nothing to do with midrange adjustment your just asking for problems if you go start turning that screw 40+ yrs nitro experience

@jasongouw274

Жыл бұрын

Hey there appreciate your input but the third screw is there for a reason. It’s definitely not a needle but does alter mid-throttle fuel/air mixture. Read some of the other replies I made to a comment concerning this adjustment. I even explain the physics behind it. I’d be curious if it weren’t supposed to be adjusted why manufacturers would go through extra efforts and expensive to put this on the carb with a higher probably of user frustration if they messed with it incorrectly. I wouldn’t recommend it for the novice but for some of us who mix our own fuel blends and make modifications to the engine, this screw has been incredibly useful in smoothing out the mid throttle response while nailing the low and high end as well.

La chiesa a monte i nanzeschini Nicolò cioè il cugino lord fagueld

Lord fagueld

Filling the pipe with the stuffing is changing the chamber resonance and killing your performance. Stop that.

@jasongouw274

2 жыл бұрын

Well, I'm not sure how much more performance I need on the street. No road tracks nearby. With "stuffed" exhaust it already breaks traction on all 4 wheels if I punch it. Not able to hit close to top speed in my area for on roads. In terms of chamber resonance, the stuffed section is after the tuned chamber of the pipe so it doesn't negate the tuned section - only changes the optimal power rpm due to more-dense exhaust gases from the back pressure. If I wanted real speed I wouldn't consider any stock pipes anyway - I've since put in a Nova 28-8 with Nova tuned pipe. But honestly I can't put any of that speed down just wear through tires.. lol.

Lord fagueld