Great video. No time wasted, you make your point clear an fast. I like it.

That was perfect. I have plenty of steel drop to build my table. Thanks for taking the time to show this to us.

Just wanna weigh in here real quick, regarding the whole "drops too quickly" thing: It's a hydraulic cylinder (and one I'd lay my life on that HF didn't themselves manufacture, a point in its favor, in this case). This means that there is an input and a reduction valve _somewhere_ in there (as evidenced by the facts that: A. you can pump air into it to lift it, and B. A doesn't continue to happen until said cylinder explodes, the metal deforms, and/or the user lacks the mechanical advantage to KEEP pumping it up). Now, we may safely rest assured that a HF tool is not 10ga steel with linkages precision ground from a solid billet of steel. This means that there are connectors from component to component. Indeed, there's an additive valve on the side ("make table go up") and a release handle on the pushbar ("make table go down"). Let us focus on the latter. While our OP is correct, the release handle and its componentry ARE welded to the frame, by virtue of the fact one isn't breaking welds when one pulls the handle, there _must. be. a. moving. part._ ...which, low and behold, there is! A bicycle-handbrake-style wire runs INSIDE of a frame-welded protective tube! And, should one trace this wire, look at that: it's attached to the BASE of the cylinder (the release valve) with a single bolt and nut (1/2? 9/16? Something like that). *HOW TO FIX IT* So. If pulling the handle pulls the wire which pulls on the actuator it is coupled to by our 9/16 bolt, AND pulling it too far causes the slamming action, then sense would dictate one must REDUCE the max pull exerted BY said cable. How? Simple. 1. Choke back on the cable. That is, 1a. ...loosen the damn bolt... 1b. ...slide 1/4" of the cable back out (so the shorter, free, "tail" - the part that doesn't run to the handle - is shortened still more)... 1c. ...retighten the bolt. It is vital this is as tight as you can get it without damaging the parts. 2. Now, retry. It should be fine now. Nice, slow, easy release. If it's still not satisfactory, continue below: *TROUBLESHOOTING* After the above, you will face one of three scenarios: *s1: It worked*. You don't need to troubleshoot. You're done. you may ignore the rest of this. No trouble, no need for shooting. *s2: still slams down*. Continue to repeat the above process, each time freeing about 1/8-1/4" of cable until it all works. *s3: it won't move at all*. This is unlikely, unless: I. it didn't release AT ALL at first, OR In this case, repeat the above instructions. II. you pulled the cable the wrong direction when sliding it, OR repeat the above instructions, but this time slide the cable the OTHER way. You want the LOOSE SIDE getting SHORTER. III. you failed to tighten the bolt back up, or back up ENOUGH (in which case the cable just slides loosely along the bolt and no pressure is released). pull the cable so the crimped part (the bolt will have left an impression) is back where it started originally. Then, repeat all the above instructions.

Love the screw lift. As im a paraplegic, the foot pump on the hf one would force me to do some serious modifications. But not the screw part. One could also just use a ratchet.

Great video. You are a genius! Thanks for sharing.

i just bought one, 1000 model. I love it so far.

Do you have a video or a guide how you builded it???

That version is $379 now. No coupons either.

@carlos.75

4 ай бұрын

Cupón available today comes out to $299. At least in the South Florida area

yes mannn... you really hit the problem.. the one hydraulic.. you have to be very carefull if it goes down quickly.. that its imposible with the other. i think to end the job you have to put some security.. like a chain or something.. just in case. the rest is super well done..

I'm trying to make that decision right now. Lol my problem with the HF is it only goes to 34". I'd like to go to 40 so I'm not bent over.... plus the HF does lower very quick. What are the dimensions of your lift table? Length of the 'X' vs lift. Thanks!

@hans-jurgenwiegand3103

4 жыл бұрын

Lab Rat life I would build a plywood filler on top of the platform, to get my needed elevation. I’m going to build one on my 500 lbs model, so I can get heavy loads in & out of my SUV, by myself. I hope it helps in your decision!

Perfect video .American Made..North America need get back to Wuork again . Cheers from Canada.

You sell plans to your lift?

What is the weight limit on home made cart?

Great advice, great 'review'. Personally I like the fun and challenge of making my own. Maybe I need to have a go at an air driven ram to do the lift. Let's see how that goes. Then again, the screw drive is pretty well fool proof. Out of curiosity, what thread diameter and pitch do you have on your thread mechanism. Cheers from Downunder

@UnsanctionedFabrication

5 жыл бұрын

I used standard American 3/4"-10 medium strength threaded rod, Thanks for watching!

@vi67

4 жыл бұрын

@@UnsanctionedFabrication You mentioned difficulty raising under heavy load so perhaps 3/4" Acme Threaded Rod would be a better choice.

@sunilmehra2614

3 жыл бұрын

Sir mujhe hui banan h aidai btaye 9130902092

Very good

How much lift your lift

Bolt me kese ghum rhi h btao na

Very Good!... #22 ✝ {7-4-2022}

Great video… However the harbor freight model is garbage. Seems to be built strong but the hydraulic does not last.

nis