One suggestion I might offer: sometimes turning the same number of flats on each carb to adjust the jets doesn’t work perfectly. What is important is that the jet lowering is the same on each carb. I have found that a better way to insure that result is to measure the depth of the jet on the one carb after lowering with a caliper and then make sure the depth measurement is the same on the other carb. 😊 Lin

@EconoboxGarage

11 ай бұрын

Thanks for this Lin. I did double check the depth but forgot to mention it. I will be sure to cover that bit in the next couple of videos.

It's all getting very exciting now Ian!

@EconoboxGarage

11 ай бұрын

Won't be long now!!!

Nicely done, Ian. Getting close now. LIN

@EconoboxGarage

11 ай бұрын

Thanks Lin!

Yet another good video, Ian! One tip you may want to share is that you can easily determine if the piston is at TDC by sticking a plastic straw in the spark plug hole. You then turn the crank and watch the straw go up, sit still for a split second, then go back down. You can move the crank back and forth until the straw reaches its highest point and just before it starts to go back down.

@EconoboxGarage

11 ай бұрын

Great tip, thank you.

By the way, I’m getting SO anxious to see the video of the first start that I can hardly stand it! Since you’ve already revealed that you’ve driven it, there’s no suspense regarding whether it starts, however.

@EconoboxGarage

11 ай бұрын

You won;t have to wait too long...watch for episode 131 coming soon!

Ian, vacuum advance is an economy device and is at its strongest at light throttle - when cruising etc. It is not necessary at idle. Hence, the vacuum port on the carburettor is positioned so vacuum is not available on closed throttle. Porting it from the manifold will apply vacuum to the diaphragm at closed throttle (idle and deceleration). Vacuum at idle is usually around 21”Hg, but during deceleration close to 30”Hg - not good for an aging vacuum diaphragm. Unless you’re chasing fuel economy you may as well run your engine without it.

@EconoboxGarage

11 ай бұрын

Thanks for the input. I'm going to run with what I've got for now and see how it goes. I believe there is a vacuum advance unit for the Lucas distributor that is designed for a manifold source. I may try and source that in the future.

remember to put the brackets on the heat shield, as per 68 MG Midget, may prevent cracking.

@EconoboxGarage

11 ай бұрын

Thanks for the tip. I'll look into those.

19 days 'till Labor Day! I expect to see a first drive video on the 6th. I used to be the SU carb guru in my town, while I was in high school. Older guys (20's & 30's was old to me at the time) would come knocking on my door in the morning so I could tune their carbs. I got $10 and they were happy to pay because the car finally ran right. Not bad for a few minutes work considering that I was only making $1.25 an hour at my regular job.

@EconoboxGarage

11 ай бұрын

Hadn't even thought of that! Thanks for the reminder.

Ian, great carb setup and of course engine looks breathtaking! Every video is like an adventure and I have to make sure I have some popcorn available to watch your next one.

@EconoboxGarage

11 ай бұрын

Thanks Dan.

those carbs are very well done. I always find it funny that the oil needs to go in those dashpots, but only in that center tube. They don't need to be filled entirely. I may have done that a few times accidentally. It makes a big mess as the oil leaks out around the bottom of the pots.

@EconoboxGarage

11 ай бұрын

Thanks Ken. This whole project has been a valuable learning experience. The past twenty or so years has been working on a fuel injected Ford Festiva... with extra spice added of course!

There's nothing hard about tuning SU carbs. The main things are to have the right needles and to make sure the jets are centred. The actual tuning is very easy but you really need a Unisyn or something similar to check thst they are in sync. I note that you have a later model engine and assuming the carbs came with it they should be fine.

@EconoboxGarage

11 ай бұрын

Thanks. These are the later HS2s with the spring loaded needles.

hope you did not forget the damping oil in the carbs

@EconoboxGarage

11 ай бұрын

All fluids coming in episode 130!

Engine looks pristine! Those head bolts look new to me. What kind are they? Looking forward to seeing you fire it up!

@EconoboxGarage

11 ай бұрын

Gareth, almost all the bolts and studs in the engine are ARP.

LIKE 26

@EconoboxGarage

11 ай бұрын

Thanks for the visit

Did you have to cut the two rods that go into the master cylinder? I have disc brakes that were added before and I am told that I have to shorten them to 3 11/16. Thanks, John

@EconoboxGarage

10 ай бұрын

Hello John. I didn't change mine at all. My rear brakes are the original Bugeye drums, the front disc setup is off a later Midget and I used the standard Bugeye master cylinder. I understand that it is not the ideal setup but it seems to be working OK.

@user-jq5zk4kd2g

10 ай бұрын

@@EconoboxGarage thanks for the info.

It looks like your distributor drive is 180 degrees out.

@EconoboxGarage

11 ай бұрын

Come back for episode 131!