Thanks so much for doing this video. It was the only thing that kept me from scrapping my old Monogram unit. Had I just looked at the parts and the complex, hard-to-read directions that came with the repair kit, I'd have raised the white flag and bought a new unit. With your excellent video and narration, I pciked up the condidence to try the repair. It was a success and I've saved money and the otherwise working Monogram can soldier on. I'm very grateful that you chose to make the effort and share your knowledge.

Bob and wife, This was, by far, the most informative, perfectly done, do-it-yourself video I have ever seen! I have the ice fall again in my GE ZIS42 for the second time. The first was 5 years ago and seemed to be resolved by defrosting and leaving the unit off for a few days to melt/evaporate all of the frozen condensate in the drip tray. Mine's not level as the ice fall this time is down the top-right, front corner. I am going to do this repair myself as your excellently detailed, editorialized video make it clear that it is very doable. Peace, thanks! (Oh, yeah, $9,000 for a new Monogram built-in! All for the great GE quality! It's actually not that bad - the thing is 25 years old! Very stupid engineering design though.)

I feel lucky. My GE Monogram 48 is 24 years old and my condensate pan just failed. I’ve got a small river of ice so far and the ice buildup is also keeping the fan from running. Thanks for the great video of the replacement procedure.

Wow. This is an excellent video as it shows how to disassemble the panels step by step. Thanks for the info as it will definitely make my fix more 'pleasant'.

Bless you for making this video. Our refrigerator is the same model and within three months of the same manufactured date as yours. Same problem with the icicles but I thought it was the inlet valve which I replaced underneath the refrigerator. Tons of fun laying on your stomach with your head, turned sideways trying to do that. Anyway, it looks like that did not solve the problem, and I finally noticed that the water and iceicles went all the way to the top instead of overflowing from the ice tray as I had originally thought and found many posts which said that would be the problem. Not looking forward to this particular fix, but with your video you show it as something very doable and a good chance to clean out the freezer :-). UPDATE: SOLVED This problem on mine. Mine has exactly the same issues shown on yours with the long icicles coming down and pooling on the floor of the freezer. What I found out, and I think was mentioned in some other comments is that the only reason you have icicles is because the heater under the pan is working, therefore the problem is the melted. Water is not draining. It turns out the tube for the drain was plugged up with whatever ends up in tubes after 25 years.… Before you do any of this check that the tube is clear try blowing compressed air through that’s what works for me. Cheers.

pS- got answers to my questions at the very end of the vid…perfect vid Bob! You are very skilled and talented…both attributes I lack.

Thank You Bob! Your video help me a lot! Id save a time an money! I had same problem but side wall ice leak. My problem was drain tube (dirt). Its imposible to clean it from top by compressor... Id open from inside step by step at your video! Once again mr Bob... Thank You

@nickcats9171

9 ай бұрын

How did you clean the drain tube? Suction (shop vac? Or is that too strong?) I put in a new condensate pan & still is leaking water down the side of my freezer. Repair guy thinks the drain hose might be clogged.

This Video deffinatly helps me with my issue, even though im not having that exact problem. Awesome. Thanks

THANK YOU .. MY SON HAS THIS ONE .. He said it was not getting cold .. So I was look at all i can to try to help him.

Thank you for posting this. Im gonna try and instal the pan this wknd. I couldn’t even find a technician who can do the repair in my area as GE doesn’t even cover repairs where i live. A bit daunting but I’ve done worse repairs on dishwashers! This fridge is a colossal failure of engineering. No wonder GE is almost bankrupt! Thanks again

Hi Bob, Thank you! I had replaced the motherboard and the evaporator fan motor due to the FF compartment on my 2003 Monogram side-by-side not cooling. I didn't know enough to realize that the ice I saw as I disassembled the freezer compartment was a real problem! I replaced the evap. fan motor and the motherboard successfully after the refrigerator had sat unplugged for days waiting on the parts. so, it was fully thawed. I plugged it in and it worked beautifully for 4 1/2 days. I was so pleased with my novice self. Then, both compartments went much too warm. Ice in many places. I'm guessing that this drain pan is my issue. Some have suggested a leaking water line for the ice maker. I have thawed the freezer, removed the ice maker components and plugged it back in. It is running well now. If it cools properly and goes five days with no ice, I'm going to assume it's the ice maker line leaking. If I get ice again, I'm going to replace this evap. drain pan. Yes, replacing these large refrigerators is very, very expensive. Your video is EXACTLY what I needed to not throw in the towel and encourage myself to keep going. Thank you, again!

Thanks I have the same frig and same problem....most helpful!

This is a great diy video, but here’s the thing. Just going through all of this project I learned a few things that make this undertaking much cheaper. First thing is that your original pan is made much stronger then the replacement part. Secondly they sell the heating Element as a stand alone item. Here are a few photos that will help you in the diy project. Sorry I can’t figure out who to attach photos , but shoot me a hello and I’ll hook you up with everything I learned on doing this project. But here’s at least the part number of the heating Element off eBay WR51X321 60.00 so I went ahead and picked one up. Now my unit was built in 08, 1995 so my pan is made of Steel

@simonc4234

Жыл бұрын

Hello, I would appreciate if you have information how to just replace the heating element instead of the whole tray kit.

@kennethbeeler1

Жыл бұрын

WR51X321 - Heater Trough Only Replacement for Original GE WR51X321 Not Icing Kit

@simonc4234

Жыл бұрын

How to open up the original sealed tray with silicone on styrofoam?

@kennethbeeler1

Жыл бұрын

@@simonc4234 , is your tray aluminum or steel? Whatever the case use a razor blade and be very gentle.

@MrCabimero

10 ай бұрын

First I admire you for doing this aa a DIY- this was very complicated . If I had done this and filmed it KZread would have taken it down for all the foul language. I have the same unit, built in 95. Just took it out for floor remodel. Had severe rust on top of unit over the ice maker which then dripped down back wall. The unit was installed to specs- the issue was not enough space above the unit to allow for adequate ventilation IMO. This allowed for condensation . Getting a new fridge so I built a chimney - drilled a 2/14 inch hole in the floor and top of the cabinet above Put a piece fo PVC pipe in the hole to allow the heat to escape . Even on the new units GE does not put any vent slots in the front top grill. Don't understand why but that's GE. Thanks again for doing this. Hey, loved the electric screw driver. Kobalt????

I would agree. 100 percent total pos. The hotter and more humid the weather ges. . The bigger pos it is. With today's repair charges that repair would most likely be $ 2000. Great info.

Yep..u were right..this monogram is a pieces of craps. I had to replace inverter and control board in this July and now defrost heater. Thanks very much

Great video. Bought the GE monogram in 2014, and what a piece of crap. Replaced the compressor, inverter, ice maker, damper, heater pan, bimetal defroster switch twice to name a few. The freezer shelves have rusted and the unit hardly turns off, and it uses a tun of electricity. Will never touch GE again. Makes me wonder, they do make airplane engines, right?

I am looking at one of these built in GE Monogram 48" (couple years older - 2001) for a friend, refrigerator side is not cooling. She has had 3 Appliance Services look at it, they tell her the compressor is bad while the freezer sits at -5F. There is NO air entering the refrigerator side even with the baffle in the opening between the freezer & Fridge removed. The ice maker was removed a few years ago and I think that it has something to do with the problem. There is no back pressure below the evap fan to push cold air into refridg., the air has a straight shot down into the freezer. Also wondering what the path is to get air to the other side of the evap coil, maybe that path is pluged. Should be like a furnace, there is a cold air return duct system. There seems to be plenty of cold air coming off the evap coil into the freezer. But ZERO air blows into the refridg. Ideas?

Thank you, thank you, thank you! Darn frustrated trying to replace the freezer temperature sensor (frozen fresh food compartment). Gave up when I got to pulling out the pan (thought it was just styrofoam insulation, now I know thanks to your awesomely informative & well filmed video kudos to the wifey). Can I get to the temp sensor once the pan is removed or do I need to remove the evaporator? yikes! Was hoping there’s an easier way through the outside top grille panel. Gerrrr. Schematics online don’t show the exact location of the temp sensor. Ziss480nxbss 2013. No local repairmen. Recommend by GE repairman said he had to pull the fridge out to repair from the back!!!🤪an extra $500!!

@nickcats9171

10 ай бұрын

Found it! Here’s a SUPER awesome manual w/pics! visualizador.serviplus.com.mx/datos_pt/refr/manuales/ServiceManual_31-9117.pdf

Thank you very much, excellent video, very clear...Congrtulations

Ditto on best DIY vid. Where can a defrost kit be purchased?

I have one too. I agree it's an unreliable piece of crap. I fixed a handful of issues already. I may be having a similar issue. Except I am seeing water fall down the left side of the fridge and pool inside the ice maker. Mine was bought in 2010 and its still a piece of crap

Hi My monogram got same problem freezer -14F but fridge 50F. Will follow u video to fix it. My is 2004 so i could not find the heater switch. Please tell me where is it. Also any idea when freezer door open/close therenis bubbles sound inside compressor tank. But no bubbles soundnqhen fridge door open/close. Thanks

You did a great job.

Hola desde Argentina, GRAN TRABAJO Y MEJOR EXPLICACION, gracias

I have had this replaced 6 times and the reason is because they aren't replacing the black tubes that come with it. I see you are also not replacing the tubes. I was told by GE the tubes need to be replaced at the same time. Do you have a video for that?

How do you force this freezer into the defrost mode.

Great information...

I wish you have a video on how to install the evap heater

Thank you for the video. I was about to replace the defrost heater but now I'm not sure if that's my problem or if it's the heating element in the pan. Do you have experience replacing the Defrost Heater Assembly WR51X322? Same fridge as yours.

My hunch: reason why this pan fails is that it becomes waterlogged and frozen. Good voltage and proper resistance = coil cannot overcome the frozen environment. They send this pan with some sealant on the pan side, but it likely fails over time. You can feel the weight difference when replacing this part. Next time someone goes in for this repair, compare the weights of the old pan vs the new and share!

It's amazing how the brain can make you see what you want to see. You rationalized the old heating element being bad every which way to Sunday..lol The most common reason for clogged drains is (drumroll please) a CLOGGED DRAIN caused by dirt in the drain line.! The vast majority of refrigerators don't even have drain pan heaters. They really are not necessary because a heater doesn't stop dirt from clogging the drain, which is the number 1 reason for backups and frozen drain pans. if the resistance value of the old heating element matches the new one then ether you have 2 out of tolerance heating elements (consider the odds of that) or both elements are good. The only way that heating element could possibly get hot in only one area is if it broke and grounded itself , in which case the resistance reading would be infinite when measured across the terminals but give some lower value than 330 ohms ( not 3300 ohms as you stated) when measured to ground. Since you disconnected the ground wire, a grounded element would not get hot at all. Since you are able to use a multimeter, you can check the heating element at the control board if you have the tech sheet that came with the fridge. 330 ohms plus or minus 5 percent and it's good as is the wiring going to the element. You can then check for 120 volts at the control board when in defrost mode. No 120 volts then the board is bad. If both tests pass, you have a blocked drain line. I didn't watch the video to the end so forgive me if I stated something you also stated. Btw, I hope you cleared the rain line before putting everything back together.

@hodask12

3 жыл бұрын

Mine is doing the same thing. So do u recommend cleaning the drain pipe first and not change anything?! Or change. If so .. Where did u buy the part and what was the item number. ? Thanks in advance. Also did u change the temperature sensor and deforest Thermostat ? 🙏🏻🙏🏻

@TheNYgolfer

3 жыл бұрын

@@hodask12 I would need the model number of your refrigerator so I can look up the part number . For a clogged drain there is no need to change the defrost thermostat or temperature sensor ( aka thermistor). Those 2 items are often the cause of an iced over evaporator (self defrost issues) not an iced up drain pan as in this video. Are you sure you have a clogged drain and not a self defrost issue? A clogged drain means you have water dripping into the freezer but the freezer and refrigerator temperatures are normal. A problem with the self defrosting system results in a frosted over evaporator which then restricts airflow and the refrigerator and freezer temperatures would be higher than normal.

@donjones3355

11 ай бұрын

We have a Monogram as well. Our refrigerator is 52, freezer is 20. I replaced the defrost timer. Thinking about changing the heater pan. Any ideas what our problem could be? Thanks.

@nickcats9171

10 ай бұрын

You are very knowledgeable 👍. Do you know if the temperature sensor is near the evaporator? Didn’t see it on the video. Help please🙏🏻 Can’t find schematic w/exact location. Hate to remove everything & it’s not there. Ziss48onxbss

@nickcats9171

10 ай бұрын

Found it! Here’s a SUPER awesome manual w/pics! visualizador.serviplus.com.mx/datos_pt/refr/manuales/ServiceManual_31-9117.pdf

I have a cabinet depth GE Profile built in model #PSB48YSXASS, which I believe has the same issue. My defrost tray is somewhat smaller than yours but a pain in the ass to get to never the less. I have a couple questions if you don't mind. #1 Is there a way short of buying a new unit for comparison to know what the proper resistance specs should be? I noticed that even your bad unit showed to be good. #2 My unit is a 2009 model. I don't think I have a defrost timer. is it feasible to connect the old defrost tray directly to 110v ac for testing? Or am I looking to get fried? #3 Is there anything else I should be looking at that could be a source of my problem? For example there is a wire loop with 4 small ceramic cubes attached that extends into the drain tube from under the tray. I have no idea what it is and it does not appear on any parts explosion diagram. And lastly, What's it gonna take to get you to come over and fix the damn thing for me? 😁 Thanks! Would greatly appreciate and advice you can offer.

Great video

Bob…you’re fantastic! We are having the exact same issue with our exact same refrigerator and model. Difference is, we just replaced our floors 6 months ago with hardwood, so our floor by the fridge was damaged too. Yikes! I’m in Deerfield Illinois and am going to call in ABT electronics in Glenview….can you give me your best guestimate on price for parts and then labor that would be fair? Thanks Bob…and btw….if you haven’t, you should be hired by GE to teach this stuff AFTER the pay you for re-engineering their crappy kitchen appliances which are awful…. Again….thanks Bob.

@vincef374

Жыл бұрын

I charge $900. That’s parts and labor complete.

I have the 36" Monogram, and I hate hate hate it. But it's a built in, so I'd have to replace it with an exact same size model, which would cost around $10k. I've had several repairs professionally done by GE, and now I think I have a bad air damper. Grrr

What were the symptoms that led you to suspect the defrost pan was bad? Freezer to cold and fresh food warm?

What was the part number ?! I have the same fridge. Hi. Mine is acting up .. Where did u buy the part and what was the item number. ? Thanks in advance. Also did u change the temperature sensor and deforest Thermostat ? 🙏🏻🙏🏻

@kennethbeeler1

Жыл бұрын

did you ever get the part number? if so, can you give it to me thanks

@nickcats9171

10 ай бұрын

Is the temperature sensor near the evaporator? Didn’t see it on the video. Help please🙏🏻 Can’t find schematic w/exact location. Hate to remove everything & it’s not there.

@nickcats9171

10 ай бұрын

Found it! Here’s a SUPER awesome manual w/pics! visualizador.serviplus.com.mx/datos_pt/refr/manuales/ServiceManual_31-9117.pdf

Cant find fan or defrost controller.

Bob, What is the part # for the kit that you used and from whom did you order it? Seems there may have been changes made to the "de-icing" kit contents. Thanks again for the thorough video!

@kennethbeeler1

Жыл бұрын

did you ever get the part number?

@jflivingston

Жыл бұрын

@@kennethbeeler1 Yes, it is WR49X10021 GE Icing Kit - about $200-225. Much better than $3,000 that GE Service quoted! Two suggestions: get a VERY long extension for a screwdriver as a screw on the top of the freezer needs to be removed to free the coil and get a hot-wire foam cutter to shave about 1/4" off of the entire bottom of the new drip pan (the drip pan styrofoam insulation is a bit too thick and it WILL prevent you reinstalling the metal bottom plate.) Lastly, it's a tight squeeze and pay attention to the orientation of all the parts and wires as you take it apart. It's an easy repair if you really want to do it!

@jflivingston

Жыл бұрын

Ah, the drain hose as mentioned in another comment. If you don't damage the end of the existing hose that connects to the drain pan, I would skip replacing it unless it is plugged with 'gunk'. Run a thin piece of wire through the existing hose to verify it's not plugged. It really is an easy repair, but pay attention!

@barrygrossman8062

Жыл бұрын

Bob..how long should the repair take with a trained tech?

@barrygrossman8062

Жыл бұрын

@@kennethbeeler1 Ken…How long did it take you to do the repair? Thanks…

Hi Bob, This is the second time I'm doing this job, obviously a design flaw with GE Monogram side-by-side units. After looking at the rest of the kit, aside from the drain pan / heater assembly, how necessary do you feel it is to replace the drain hoses and the rest of that insulation as well? I didn't replace the drain hose, merely making sure it was clear because it looked like a major hassle as it routes into and, if I recall correctly, under or near the compressor. Also, what electric screwdriver do you have? It seems to have a decent speed. I rely on those heavily and have both a Dewalt (8V) and a Craftsman (4V), both gyroscopic types. Thanks in advance for your reply and also for making this great video.

@not2criticalbeercritic193

3 жыл бұрын

Do you recall what the part # was for the kit? Also, where did you order it from?

@aerlial360

3 жыл бұрын

@@not2criticalbeercritic193 WR49X10021. This my second time doing this job. I got it from Marcone but I have a commercial account with them which gives me really low prices, otherwise, there are cheaper places to get it.

@kennethbeeler1

Жыл бұрын

@@not2criticalbeercritic193 Did you ever get that part number? if so, can you get it to me, thanks

Bob you never gave us the part num... help please

I've got one of these, had the same thing fail.

@hodask12

3 жыл бұрын

Hi. Mine is acting up .. Where did u buy the part and what was the item number. ? Thanks in advance. Also did u change the temperature sensor and deforest Thermostat ? 🙏🏻🙏🏻

I have a GE Monogram ZIPS480DTASS purchased 2008 my inverter shorted out and I changed it but before I did I put the unit in test mode and now it beeps 3x when pressed (see video) kzread.infouTDwJp5wg58 and to add insult to injury its not defrosting properly (maybe cools at preset temp for 3 days) after that temps start to rise drastically (freezer 22F fridge 55F) after that I have to unplug it for a night, then I'll notice water from the drain tube, power the unit on and repeat. what do I need to replace to get this unit working properly? Which pins on the main control board do I need to test

Gosh, what garbage these things are. (ZIC360) Anyone know an aftermarket part number for the freezer drawer slides?