i just did this yesterday, after watching this helpful video. The best material to use to clean the contact points is ordinary plain white printer paper. Don't use sandpaper. You can put some alcohol or contact cleaner or deoxit on the paper, and rub the contacts around on it to clean them, also rubbing them on a dry portion of the paper to polish them. Clean and polish the contacts in the body of the switch by balling up some paper and using a fine screwdriver or pick to scrub it back and forth over the contacts. Be careful and make sure your metal tool does not scratch the contacts, only the paper should touch them. Paper contains a small amount of silica in it naturally, so it acts like a very fine abrasive and it's just perfect for polishing and burnishing electrical contacts without putting scratches in them or wearing off the plating. If you don't want to get into the switch at all, which is understandable as it's delicate and microscopic, a spritz of DeOxit and working it back and forth 100 times or so may break up enough of the corrosion to make it reliable again.

Ah thank you very much. I bought a GBA that doesn't power on. Try to clean power switch with a contact cleaner and it works intermittently. I finally removed the cover to the switch and actually clean that contact...surprised the contact could be so dirty. Now the power switch works perfectly. :D

Oh that's genius! I had no idea the switch could be dismantled without damage, and i would have never guessed that it can be done in-situ! That's great! Apropos acetone, it can be used on circuit boards and components without actual harm, it won't damage the soldermask, switches or connectors, and it usually shouldn't attack the silkscreen either. It will eagerly consume outer enclosure pieces though (polycarbonate, polystyrene, ABS), so just keep those well away. The reason you can be quite certain that it won't harm anything mounted on the PCB is because many larger plants wash the board with MEK post-soldering. Acetone and MEK are both ketones and work very similarly, but MEK is more potent, so everything that is weak to acetone, will also be dissolved or at least severely attacked by MEK. Soldermask is epoxy-based and switches and connectors are made from polyamides, PBT, PEI and LCP, you can look up chemical compatibility on those, they're extremely solvent resistant. Some silkscreen processes for lower volume board production can be solvent-based rather than thermoset, so they could potentially be washed off, but every component is expected to be used in a variety of processes which may involve MEK or acetone.

Straight to the point!! Some people make video of 40min just to show this. After 40min you still dont get it.

Thanks mate just about to spend a fortune on these. 👍👍

Great video. Thanks for the tips.

Thanks again, this video is really helpful.

Thanks a lot for this! If I only knew this earlier.

Thanks, you are my hero

Thanks

What heat should the soldering iron be at to not damage anything?

battery LED flickering between green and red even with a fresh set of batteries, the power switch is almost certainly your

Why is the big capacitor electrolytic?

@bengrimmett1239

6 жыл бұрын

PS4 Custom Gamer designed that way. Higher capacitance per volume for the price compared to MLC or tantalum

@ps3customgamer

6 жыл бұрын

Ben Grimmett my modded GBA came with one of these caps. Does it make a difference for the AGS-101 being 6.3v with the same 470uf or something else?

Didn't work.

Thanks