Thank you for shedding light on the errors made by companies who have worked on my house. Finding anyone who puts the time and attention in to details like the ones you just reviewed is next to impossible.

I haven't watched all Matts videos but this might the first one that I've seen him actually doing the work. Nice.

I’m a mason out of Columbia MO I love using Mortar Net products! Awesome brother, love seeing time spent and actually caring of quality over quantity

I have done this several times. In places where there was negative fall. I used polyurethane concrete self leveling caulk. Very effective

I don’t understand having any thumbs down on this lol. This was very helpful for the way my house was already built and rotted out. I now know how to fix it.

This house is going to be so layered, it will definitely be the last house standing from this era! I love it, I bet Matt is constantly thinking about every extra step he can add to add years to his house...I hope it becomes a family heirloom that stays a Risinger home for several Generations, if we don't get ourselves kicked off the planet by then!

@EasyEd1955

4 жыл бұрын

Well if his family doesn't keep it, I'm sure the next owner will appreciate the effort he put in to keep it as trouble free as possible. Of course, not everyone is a builder and may wonder what the point of going to all the trouble. Some people unfortunately, 'just don't care'.

@Beandiptheredneck

4 жыл бұрын

Adam Garrett he almost makes me feel bad for my “it only has to outlast me” mentality lol

@vanderumd11

2 жыл бұрын

Definitely will be sold

@vanderumd11

2 жыл бұрын

@@Beandiptheredneck that's real. You leave something that's worth a child's entire net worth. They better sell and downsize

Even though I find this project kind off of the rails, I've always appreciated the honesty. I know you bought the house basically sight unseen to help out someone from your church. It has certainly been a journey learning the real condition.

You have a specific video for every last thing I want to over-engineer on my own projects. I wish they sold a lot of this stuff at Lowes because now I'm waiting for deliveries, but it's totally worth it.

I like your focus on the detail on sealing out water that people typically skim over. You showed something unique. People make so many assumptions to resolve a potential problem but you showed some nice detail on a potential future problem you didn't want occurring and unique resolution to it ... nice !!

No joke - your porch is bigger than my house. I've been watching your channel for about a year - great to see you finally doing some work!

Belt and braces approach. Excellent. This is the first time I have seen this detail, and I think it is awesome.

Old school, my man. This is how flashing on chimneys was done (cutting the groove in the brick chimney and inserting a 90 degree bent corner to keep water from running behind the flashing instead of the dumb way done today with surface mounted flashing and gallons of silicone which eventually dries out and allows it to leak. Good job.

This guy is a king! He is water sealing his house like he's water sealing shower. I would love to have him build my house in the future

Really useful information for a problematic condition. Lots of time you find this issue on remodels so a really good fix.

I needed this video. I have a flush built garage that gets water this should do the trick

@ray6808

Ай бұрын

My garage also takes in water and was looking for a solution like this .

These are the kinds of details that make a huge difference.

Really useful info... but man do I hate that stupid ending. Such a bro.

Actually happy to see you using a kneeling pad. I have worked in construction and retail, where kneeling on concrete floors is an all day thing. Knee pads aren't always the best answer.

Your videos are so very helpful. Thank you for the tips and help! I wish everyone built houses like you.

Man you really put a lot of trust into these unproven glues and tapes.

@HistoricHomePlans

4 жыл бұрын

How have you determined they are unproven?

Seeing these little details is just amazing. I was pressure washing my patio off of my walkout basement and had water go right underneath the wall and into said basement. Luckily it's unfinished, but this detail would have been perfect to stop this from happening.

@johnmorreson906

4 жыл бұрын

I have a question we are going to be building a block house in the Philippines but I don't really trust the products that they have can you give me some ideas

Great detail. Hurricane Ike caused $22 k damage to our house in 2008 due to wind-driven rain getting through the brick veneer and running down the sheathing and coming in under the sill plate. (And the weep holes had been plugged by mulch)

@buildshow

4 жыл бұрын

Oh man. That’s terrible Mark.

In this world of on demand videos I find myself wanting to binge watch this build, keep pumping them out brother, im excited to see more details about your build. Here's a idea for you; make a dvd of the build and make a time capsule in a wall or floor of your house, that way in 100 years when its being remodeled they will find it. You could ask fans what to put in it, that would be great just be sure to add a build hat!

Loving these videos with Matt actually doing work :P Good to know you still have the skills. Great videos, keep it up

Matt, at some point you're going to decide weather you're building a house or a submarine. LOVE THE BUILD SHOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

thats an interesting solution to your problem. since I will be building in snow country, I was thinking that a complete wrap around porch, about 8 feet out, with gravel base should keep any and all water away from my foundation/basement walls. the freeze/thaw cycle would never have a chance either.

Thanks for the advice this is a great solution when building a wall on concrete slab

Just the detail I was looking for, thanks Matt!

Matt's house is 16% flashing by weight lol Love it!

One little missed detail...your vertical zip tape on the seams of the zip panels should shingle/lap over the horizontal zip tape you installed for the flashing. I don't agree with the kerf cut into the concrete with flashing embed in sealant. This is a water wicking scenario when the sealant fails. I would use a brick ledge flashing profile making sure the slope is maintained during install. This way, water intrusion won't wick up into the zip panel. Never butt joints with flashing.

Whoa! That's a nice detail. Way to look ahead. Great problem solving!

Love your content, though I am not a builder, other than amateur handyman. Love your occasional collaborations with the "other" Matt on his "mansion" project as well. Thank you for the content, always enjoyable!

Matt, since you're in Austin: you should consider doing a 'compare & contrast' with Gary Zuker's build there-since he went the ''natural materials' and 'DIY route''; toured on Kirsten Dirksen's channel. . . . Video is titled 'Austin coder builds timeless cob home using precise patterns'.

I like that. That can take years of sideways rain and not give out.

Love the detail of your videos. So easy to follow

I have kerfed 1 inch deep at planned sheeting line and stood up flashing bedded in tremco buytl and incorporate into WRB. No bend necessary and a much deeper embedment. On house to garage slabs I cast in place.

Thanks, Matt. Throwing ideas into my brain that may come in handy at some future buildpoint.

I swear Matt will have a zip tape feature wall in his new finished house. 😂

Like concrete, there are 2 types of sealant, ones that have failed and ones that will fail,...….mechanical flashing, IE shingled does not require sealants. Sealants are required in some places/circumstances...…..that's just the way it is...…..while they can certainly be minimized, they can not eliminated.

@PhotonHerald

4 жыл бұрын

The sealant isn't there as a front-line defense. It's basically there as a "belt an suspenders and ..." type solution. The actual finish of the wall/porch surface is the front line defense. The flashing is there to handle whatever little bit gets by the wall finish. The sealant is there mainly as a bulk filler (like packing peanuts in a shipping box) for the minimal space in the kerf cut and under the flashing. If it has its own waterproof/resistant properties, and is long-lived as a sealant? Bonus points! So, even if the sealant fails (as a sealant or an adhesive), it's still providing the bulk fill in the waterproofing solution.

@aayotechnology

4 жыл бұрын

So you wouldn’t have butt-jointed the flashing?

@shawncockrell6007

4 жыл бұрын

@@aayotechnology Unless there was a detail/tolerance that prevented it no,...but it would have still used the same sealants no matter what. Who knows, the sealant might out last the flashing.....

@mitchdenner9743

4 жыл бұрын

Nothing is guaranteed in life, we just do the best to minimize.

You always deliver good useful detailed info that we listen closely to fully grok. Not sure if the conga drums are a necessary counterpoint. Maybe long notes on an organ would move the flow more subtly

I like thinking about little things that would give houses a longer life span, because I see so many houses falling apart due to not having basic prevention, then Matt here goes and 3X that haha

This detail is precisely what I need in my remodel.

Great stuff, as always. I’m excited to see how you finish this floor. I’ve struggled to perfect this detail and appreciate your thoughtful guidance here.

I look forward to seeing this front door!

Sweet, this is exactly what I was looking for. Thanks Matt!

I missed this video. Now I've got to start over. 😢

I would suggest having another bead of sealant behind the vertical leg to prevent any chance of sweat (condensation) or water overtopping of the flashing for mold/mildew prevention. Also, you're creating an open hole when running screws through the flashing, so apply an extra vertical broad bead on the wall through which the screw will pass sealing that possible water pathway. I just don't think your tape will adhere or resist punctures as well as you hope ( I noticed your head shaking in doubt) it will.

I love those 3 buck knee pads.

I used the brad nailer on the wall of the flashing edge towards the wall after applying the flashing sealant. I hope the nail didn't hurt it.

Me: I'm a belt-and-suspenders guy. Matt: I'm a belt and suspenders and button and velcro and duct tape and zip-ties guy.

This may be a solution I was looking for.

Anything worth doing is worth over doing. Nice.

This really looks like complex thinking..and i believe this will happen only when you are building your own..usually i don't see this kind of details in houses that somebody else is building..But again..it looks like it actually works...btw i think..it looks to me like that metal sheet was bended too much..i would suggest bent it in angle more than 90 degree (so it would rather want to touch the wall instead of going opposite way then you have to force it by screws towards the wood)...i'm a bit afraid that that stainless steel might come off..even it was glued..but during days or years..it might.. But again..Nice video and you did what you could to prevent water coming inside..100 points for that :)

you ha ve done every thing right

Hi Mate, if you wanted to add an extra precaution for waterproofing you could add a waterproofing membrane. I have seen cases here in Australia where people haven't waterproofed bathrooms properly and haven't fully coated the base of the shower and just sealed the floor-wall junctions, the concrete gets waterlogged and the moisture migrates under the waterproofing and out into the neighbouring rooms. This could happen with your flashing if you get moisture sitting there for long enough. Very unlikely but could be worthwhile if you want to ensure no water enters your house

I've concluded that this house is a good exercise in using every bit of cutting edge techniques available. I'd guess that you could get 90% of the benefits in all that he's done by spending 50-60% of the money he's spending. There are thousands and thousands of houses built with 19th century technology that don't have water damage after many decades of exposure in much more harsh climates than Austin. While I admire his insulation package from the aspect of reducing greenhouse gas emissions from heating (occasionally) and cooling (often) this house, with cutting edge mechanicals, the insulation overkill is, in my engineering opinion, wasted money. I think there would be more value to society in figuring out how to translate some of these technologies to production builder houses at a reasonable cost. For example, how could Zip type sheathing replace OSB and Tyvek at a reasonable cost in a 2000 home development.

@microwavedsoda

4 жыл бұрын

Jealous?

@michaelpatrick6950

4 жыл бұрын

@@microwavedsoda Why would I be jealous? Just stating an opinion that he's going overboard and I doubt if anyone could convince a bank to loan the money without sponsor discounts. As an engineer it's an impressive effort. As an engineer it's not justifiable other than as an experiment.

@leestevens446

4 жыл бұрын

I have to say that demonstrating materials and methods that are not as advanced as we were using 10 years ago doesn't really qualify as "cutting edge", but I guess that is somewhat in the eye of the beholder. Matt's claim to fame is a platform for publicizing stuff not commonly done by the trades, which is good thing, in and of itself. Leaving aside for the moment the cost/ benefit value judgement made in the reply above, I would throw this out: In 18 years working in the Boston area, I did entirely renovations and additions on existing structures, aged 30 to 90 years old. I found that 100% of the structures I worked on had present infestations of carpenter ants or termites, or significant damage from past infestations. All of those revolved around water penetration and damage; the bugs follow the moisture softening, and then accelerate it.The upshot was I have had a personal "crusade" for water management, starting way back when (mid-seventies, actually). When I moved to Colorado in 1994, I worked for another builder for a short time, doing new houses (the boom times). I looked at the shoddy building practices, felt the warm dry air, and concluded that the locals knew their stuff. Once back to doing my own jobs, I had to start on renovations and additions, all over again. Quickly learned, most of the same water intrusion problems existed here, just to a lesser degree, and without the bugs (except for one notable project). The changing insulation standards that started after the '73 energy crisis threw the industry into turmoil, and I don't see in the construction landscape that anywhere near the improved response has been made, given all this time. A few years ago, I was called as an expert examiner, by my attorney, for a severe water leak situation in a 6 year old house in a "New Community". When the legal dust had settled, I was engaged to do the remediation work. Wind driven rains from the north would leave one third of the living room floor in a huge puddle of water. Other windows had leaks that had internal structural damage. Every person(neighbor) who walked by while we were on-site had a leak story of their own. I simply shake my head at the greed, ignorance and incompetence that is rampant in the developer/ residential construction industry. Most citizens are now so conditioned by the "Walmart Effect" (you can have a bigger one of EVERYTHING, and way cheaper, too) that quality and long-term considerations of durability and maintenance costs never come up as a decision-making factor. A really smart client of mine (45 years ago) told me there are two ways to buy something: PRICE or COST.

@MsElijah16

4 жыл бұрын

Lee Stevens what do u mean price or cost?

@vanderumd11

2 жыл бұрын

@@michaelpatrick6950 it's hilarious you think banks make the decisions on the money. We build too many blank check houses here in MD. These customers make $220k annually and the bank approves any tech they want all the way up to $2M. We know the price will go up in 20 years

Nice closure detail.

Dont like relying on sealant in any aspect of building. That flashing is heavy sealant reliant. Tricky detail anyway.

@franklempka2159

3 жыл бұрын

Definitely true about sealants but stainless and the lip turned down into the concrete will help, the better idea is a bigger curb!

Great tip! Thanks for sharing this!

Hey Mat, a quick question from Australia. Did you do anything to minimize thermal bridging between the existing slab inside the house and the new slab on the porch? If not what suggestions do you have to insulate between the internal and external slabs. Would be interested in a video discussing this. Stay safe.

Amazing video like usual. Keep it up.

Well done!

Smart Man, your house it bringing up some really cool designs

like the content and level of detail, but that cutting of concrete without dust collection doesn't seem it would be OSHA approved. also it would of been nice to dust off the zip system board with a wet town and let the dry before applying that zip tape. Looked like it was caked with concrete dust.

internal corners look great but what did you do on external corner with metal flashing - we have the same situation on our balcony/porch which been filtrating for 40 years on the line where is concrete slab of the porch is connecting to the wall of the house, now we are trying to the same system as you just showed with copper flashing and external corner is very tricky one to make it tight, flash and waterproofed..

I will do it too. Thanks for idea.

Please refer me to a place where I can get this flushing because the addition was built directly onto patio concrete and the wall framing was put directly onto it which allowed some water to flow into the house under the framing which may have rotten the old joists and Im in the middle of replacing the joists and sistering the suds along with new bottom frame under the studs. I wish I could attach some pictures to this but.... I need advice to do it myself, I would put new exterior walls but i need to prevent the water from coming in. So I need a place to buy the flush metal thing. I need help asap.. Thank you

How do we know that these systems that have only been around for 10 years will last 100?

@buildshow

4 жыл бұрын

How well do they last on your kitchen table? I’ll be covering my entire structure with 2” of foam so all my tapes and sealants won’t see much +- 15 degrees of inside temps.

@SigmaDG

4 жыл бұрын

It’s also called accelerated age testing. We do it all the time in composites. There are a bunch of ASTM standards in fact for this very purpose.

@Crusader1815

4 жыл бұрын

With enough money, you can make something last thousands of years. You could go with all stainless steel framing and sheathing, welded together. Your kitchen sink does pretty well as a water barrier, and if you go to a railroad museum, you'll see stainless steel passenger cars that have been mostly outside in the weather since they were built in the 40s. They last pretty well. This will cost you mucho dinero, but for a thousand years, hey, it's worth it, right? Finish off the exterior with thick granite ashlar blocks, and, well, you've seen the Lion Gate at Mycenae, right? That's been there 3250 years now.

@PwNaSaUrUsxLEET

4 жыл бұрын

@@SigmaDG this is the answer I was looking for. Thanks

@Nanan00

4 жыл бұрын

ASTM life cycle testing, blast it with UV at high temps and then spray it with salt water or acid etc. The plastic may last but adhesives tend to be the first part to go, I too am interested in how the zip flashing and others hold up over a few decades.

Dude, you're a gangster!!

Nice video, Dusty

Look at the boss getting his hands dirty! He must want to make sure this is done right the first time.

Yeah i prefer to triple flash mine with metal first and i run it all the way up the wall and bend to the floor and run it off the porch, then a carbon fiber liner over that with a 2 part epoxy sealer to adhere both together, then i have a rubber matting an inch thick that i glue on the wall down to the floor and again over the porch and off the side and i layer rubberized epoxy rolled on with a paint roller 2 inch nap, then i put the final layer on 1/2 inch thick steel plating and i first paint hot molton lead onto the wall and the floor and adhere the steel (one piece of course fully custom) to the lead and i then use a sandwiching machine by JCB that has 900hp and is fully hydraulic and custom and it presses it all together and then it gets a 3.5 inch thick foamrubber matting and we cover it in mesh and fiberglass resin and layer it up about 6 times twice a day for a week straight and once dry we paint on allgrip and then a coat of rubberized bedliner and finally we spray closed cell foam on the outside of that and mash on a 2 inch thick piece of kevlar. Let me know if you want to join us in the big leagues there guy. 😊

I refuse to wait through 4 minutes of scam heater advertising just to watch the video

@hillishomesolutions3173

4 ай бұрын

I give videos 1 ad. I am gone when the second starts.

@mattrisinger I wish I could afford your services, but as an aspiring young homeowner, I plan to buy & rehabilitate property using the many things I learn from you & the Build Show crew.

interesting solution. thanks for sharing.

What's the minimum required in Texas? our builder did not install any flashing where the siding meets the foundation and the foundation sticks out about an inch off the exterior wall, this along with the fact that the siding butts with the foundation instead of overlapping, is causing water to leak into our garage. The problem is that, this can be seen happening at other portions of the house which is concerning.

Very nice.Dean

I know Austin doesn't get that cold, but it DOES freeze there. If moisture ever made it into that kerf cut, that seems to be an invitation for a split/cracked slab.

@PhotonHerald

4 жыл бұрын

The way the wall system is planned, any water that somehow makes it in is going to be minimal and will likely evaporate rather than accumulate.

That is such an amazing idea! I would have never have thought of something like that. Thanks for sharing

I had a similar detailing problem on a school build where the architectural plan shows stud walls resting directly on top of the slab instead of sitting on a curb. Since it's new construction and the walls were not built yet (but the structural is up), I just sent an RFI and had the GC add curbs lol. I'm sure the concrete guys had a fun time charging for a change order too.

@HistoricHomePlans

4 жыл бұрын

Slabs without curbs are so much easier to form, place and screed. The architect was probably hoping to save the client some money. So much for that.

I find myself here after investigating the inside corner leak issue on our 1961 carport-became-family room. Super depressing to think it's most likely just a bottom plate sitting right on the concrete, then a piece of OSB and a J channel. 😭

Building a frame one foot inside existing cement slab. Can you pour a small curb before putting up the frame walls to keep water out. For anyone that sees this to answer.

Could l get the name of the caulking you used. Doing same Idea in my garage. Thanks

Great video

I think this will help me. My porch (concrete) is above my garage. I got a water leak damaging the ceiling of this unit. The concrete has several cracks but the water leak stains makes me believe that the water is coming straight down from the siding that most likely doesn't have the flashing joint. What else do you recommend i could do to the concrete porch, which was built back in 1976, to ensure there are not more water leaks. The association can't afford to redo the whole concrete porch. Contractor is recommending a Rubber membrane to repel the water in the meantime. any recommendations? have you ever deal with something like that?

Love your videos Matt!

I'm not convinced with the concrete cut myself......especially in my area of the NE heavy winter area. I understand why you did it and with a clean line strike(being a "Z" trap flashing), but concrete is a finicky animal. Salt, moisture, degraditation to the surface.....Myself a brick flash with a heavy bead of poly caulk. Plus you said a 3/4" rise in the concrete as well. I dispise any chance of concrete degradation especially in this scenario in the North country.

One more for ya lol why use hardie over lp smart side?

I’m betting it pops up out of that groove since it had to be pulled back against the wall with screws.

@tsicby

3 жыл бұрын

Yeah, metal flashing should be bent at more of an angle to allow gravity to drain off any water that accumulates on it. This looked like a 90 deg angle on it. If it had more of a slope to the angle it probably wouldn't want to pop-out like that.

Hey Matt, I've built my house myself watching a LOT of your videos, so thanks for good information being shared. I have the same ledge around my walkout basement/patio slab. I was just going to use the Huber Liquid Flash for the transition between the Zipwall and the slab drop which is about three inches. Do you think that will be fine or should I use the Prosoco? I liquid flashed all of my windows, so I have both on hand. I was going to use your "Zip 1.5" method.

@zefrum3

Жыл бұрын

sponsorship legalities will prevent him from answering, most likely. IMHO and not having much experience with the products, I would bet both fluid applied materials are essentially the same chemistry

Matt, the only detraction from your video I can see is your Zip R sheathing seam tape is now back lapped on your flashing tape. That would be incorrect as per engineers specifications. All tapes and membranes must have positive lapping process from bottom to top regardless of the quality of product.

@buildshow

4 жыл бұрын

Probably true but it’s a covered porch with a 2’ overhang. Not much water washing down these walls.

Why dont ye saulder the overlap of the straight pieces ? Wont last 100 plus years Could have used copper also

@fisqual

4 жыл бұрын

I think the concrete would corrode thru the copper pretty quickly just like the galvanized he told us not to use? Sure would look nice though.

anyone can help me? if i want to put a 2x4 frame to close up a carport, but the concrete is not even. so i can't just secure the bottom stud into the concrete because theres air gaps between the concrete and wood. is there something i can use in between?

Your videos are awesome. I changed the garage door to the opposite side and had been having water coming in after I applied stucco, I completely missed doing this and will be doing it soon. Also I’m trying to level my garage floor because it’s uneven due to the door movement. It had about 2” difference for water to out come in but now I need it leveled. Know how I can do that since it quite a bit ? Thanks

I have the same scenario, but I am putting a 3" topping slab on top top f my structural slab. This is an exposed exterior balcony. Should I do this application on my structural slab and extend flashing up past the topping slab ? Or should I only do this process on top of final topping slab against my wall? Thanks guys.

Would not comply if in Australia. Must be 50mm step down to garage .. usually 100mm to external .

What do you do when there's a door threshold?

Great work my brother!

Byutal ah! How did you like working with hot gum? Lol Well your going to be alright, “but” you should use Dow 795. Byutal never really sets up but when exposed to uv light it will dry and crumble, 795 will stick and move. With that it looks good and will work. Also FYI put a little slope to it if water sits it wicks or eats it’s way threw.

Can this be used in cement stairs?