Dude!!!! That pump has way to much flow for the drive!! It seems to be ok for the loader but you need to install the smaller pump that you had previously for the drive and the larger pump side for the loader, your basically like trying to take off in 5th gear right now of course it’s gonna shear the key you have way to much strain on it. Find a way to mount the smaller pump for the drive either by bolting it to the larger pump some how or by using pulleys. A lot of the older vintage skid steers are setup this way

@Vein1986

4 ай бұрын

Yeah, too much flow. He might get by by using Hydraulic Adjustable Variable Flow Control Valve so he would have option to have "gears" and will not have to mess with pump with two sections with different flow rates.

Very excited to see how you got all the functions working properly. Once you get the hyd flow right it will be a sweet little machine

If it's shearing the key, then something is wrong with the hydraulic system or the relief valve pressures are set too high. Get some pressure gauges and start checking pressures before you blow your brand new pump. I would probably run those circuits at around 2600 PSI, both loader and drive system. 20 GPM at 2600 PSI requires about 35 HP. Trial and error with hydraulics can get expensive in a hurry. I probably missed it on one of the videos, but would be cool if you could do a diagram of the hydraulic circuit, that way, people with knowledge in hydraulics could help you a little bit more. Also, you may want to add a crossover relief valve on the hydraulic motor circuit. With that valve, when you take your foot of the pedals, it will let the machine coast down, instead of just stop and put all the strain on the motors and drivetrain of a heavy machine stopping. Ideally, you would run an hydrostatic pump just for the drive but that's really expensive. That would provide fine control, variable speed and ability to coast without fully stop the machine all of the sudden.

when we honed cylinders we always had them tilted down a bit so your honing oil would kind of flush the sludge from honing out. Enjoy watching this, hope you get a lot of use out of it.

Might have a drive motor running backwards? Try jacking it up and driving the wheels, see if anything is stuck or acting odd.

Shows the power of hydraulics when you can move that thing with a drill lol.

You need a tandem pump with two different size (in^3) pumps. Seems like the new pump you have is sized correctly for loader functions, but too large for the drive motors. The old pump was too small for both, you need to be looking for a single pump in between those sizes that is compatible with the larger tandem you already have. You could research the drive motors, determine their size and flow requirements (x4), determine the needed rpm for reasonable travel speeds, and determine the proper size pump. You’ve done a great job, you’ll get there.

My grandad had a similar loader/ forklift and he put an oil cooler on where yours is or was with an electric fan with speed control. He fitted it there to keep his feet and lower legs warm as his work always meant his feet were either cold, damp or wet and that small oil cooler would dry his pants legs and warm his feet up really well .

Definitely need a steering priority valve. Steering is a safety function and is more important than the loader. The loader is operating fine with that pump but the drive should be on a variable displacement pump that is built for hydrostatic drive. The foot valve is a poor design Too. It would be better to have a solenoid control valve for fwd and rev. Also that pump running on just a single key is not going to put up with the load well. It definitely would be more appropriate to have a splined shaft running into a coupler on the flywheel. It sounds like the pump is activating the relief valve in drive too. So it bypassing under a load. One other commenter said it well. Trial and error hydraulics leads to destruction and headaches

Run a power steerin pimp on the enginge and a standard medium flow pump for the loader system and the drive.

You can use Hydraulic Adjustable Variable Flow Control Valve for drive so you would have option to have "gears" and will not have to mess with pump with two sections with different flow rates. For having proper AWD use flow divider, and split stream for frint and rear motors separately (or use cross pattern, so front right and rear left would be powered by one stream, and front left and rear right by another). You have sheared key cause you dont have safety relief valve and you have too much flow on drive circuit than motors can utilize. Have in mind that hydraulic system is like "gearbox" and you have put big sprocket on the engine and you have small sprocket on the wheels.

@TheMechanicDave

4 ай бұрын

Do you know where I can buy adjustable flow control valves?

@bobfreeman8952

4 ай бұрын

@@TheMechanicDave Summit Hydraulics & Bailey Hydraulics have them. Think of the output from the new pump as dumping the clutch in 5th gear ... vs the old pump as dumping the clutch in granny-low. The flow from the new pump is so much higher and it's trying to move all that mass FAST the instant you step on the Go pedal -- somethin's gotta give, and it's that poor little ol' key. That's giving its life to save more expensive parts like the pump or the crankshaft. Don't give up on this just yet -- it's a cool project and you're almost there!

Another great video - there's a lot going on there with the hydraulics. Very difficult to know what is going on - looking forward to see how it progresses.

It sounds like your pump is bogging down which could be because it's got to much volume and not enough pressure or to much pressure not enough flow. It could also be one or more of your hydraulic motors or wheel hubs is locking up, Seizing up or really tight, it would be the same effect as if you had a locked hand brake or caliper on a car, I don't think that loader has brakes like a car does. Those are wot I'd be checking for first. I'm a motor mechanic by the way not a equipment Technician but I hope this helps.

You should take the whole cylinder everything with you when you go to the hydraulic shop.

Good luck you will get there

What is the gpm of the pump, total and each section. The pump is overloading the engine when you are trying to climb the grade. That says the pump has too much gpm for the engine . Find out the make and model of the wheel motors. The wheel motors have a maximum flow through them If you exceed that gpm you can have pressure spikes that could be the reason you are shearing drive keys on the pump shift. You also need to know what size are the hoses going to the wheel motors are. The smaller the hose the higher the resistance to flow. If you are trying to push 16gpm through a 3/8" hose you are bound to have problems. If I remember correctly the trailer tug my find had me replace the engine in, had a 8gpm pump that was split by a rotary flow divider 60/40 between the drive and the lifting cylinder at 2500psi. It had 3/8" lines on the drives. Do not use a hardened key as it could damage the engine. As to the steering and lift circuit, a 50/50 rotary flow divider plumbed into it would give you live power to both. Block the machine up and check if each wheel motor turns freely when one of the hoses are disconnected.

haha ive run some hydraulic things on a drill too i was suprised how well it worked on a small skidster

A solution to removing the seat and the panel it sets on would be to hinge the panel. I had a 1973 ride on ditch witch that had a hinge in the front allowing the entire assembly to flip up to access under it.

What you need is a FLOW diagram to see what's going wrong . Witch side of the pump is HI/LO FLOW ? OR two axels Automatic 4x4 trans HI /Lo BIGGER MOTOR . or GOOD USED SKID STEER . great video. Thanks

I have a Swinger 100 w/ y112 continental engine very similar to your machine. June runs a Danfoss series 18? Hydrostat pump and I love the thing

Looks like too big pump for the system for sure.

That's a hydraulic heater for the cab

The ditch witch was a V30 so you can google the images

Use a restrictor on the drive circuit or use more than one return line might have pressure not returning to the tank quick enough

Are your pumps backward?? Little pump for the drive - big pump for the bucket?

To much pressure at wheels needs a pressure valve to adjust. Or yours is not working (pedal valve). With a small pump would not know it could be not adjusted correctly by old owner's. Your pump trying to move hole loader at high rate of speed like in 5th gear. It needs to start in 1st 2second Lower pressure to get back control to the drive motor's, hence why It works on small pump. Look on small pump gpm see if you can get close to it on the newer pump with a control valve separately. Everything else seems to look awesome. Good work.

I think it's like trying to pull out in high gear and that high

Try restricting the out flow to the drive as there's too much flow right now and the engine is bogging down as if you're taking off in a high gear

Something not right in the hydraulic system, also the foot pedal feels like on/off, not good. Hopefully it will clear! 👍

Je overdruk ventiel moet even wat versteld worden denk ik zo

When you hone a cylinder you shouldn't be squeezing it by the barrel nearest the end to hold on to it

Way too much pump. Get the right size

You just made all the Milwaukee fanboys climax with that move 🤣

Someone has really fckd shit up up with the pumps. The Pump shaft and coupler are way way way too small for the engine power. There is no relief valve installed. On the drive. There belongs a variable piston pump with a gear pump in there Not a tandem gear pump. Piston pump works with about 350 bar. Now there is no relief valve installed because it was in the pump before. The tandem torns the shaft with both of them at 350 bar Maybe take a look at this thing with someone who actually has some knowledge with hydraulics.. this machine doesnt get workable this way It can work when a speed control valve is added but it then has low wheel power and bad speed regulation. And a lot of power loss on the hydraulics.

Armchair quarterback here, but I think you just have too much pump for your kubota. The reason you keep shearing the keyway is the shock load of revving the engine to compensate for the lack of power, that is why the engine keeps bogging out once you get going. Also looks like you should upgrade to an M28 drill ;)

I think you might have to big of hydraulic pump to much gpm

First 😊

Poor drill clutch