Just changed out one of these on a CDI. It was leaking water out. Your video eased my mind on what could possibly go wrong!

Thanks for posting this - it explained the issue really well and I’ve now fixed the problem. Much appreciated.

Absolutely top notch video. You are the only one on KZread who explains servicing the Watts AAV with the plastic plug on the side! The upside-down installation when putting back the cleaned plastic plug with the widget on the end is golden. I have now fixed the two I had on my system. They will now be spares for when the new ones I just put on crap out. I also added proper ball valves on mine so I can do the replacement without turning off and depressurizing the system.

Thank you. I have the spring type on my Biasi boiler. It has been made easy to service by just rinsing out for a dozen years now. But I didn't understand that spring! I thought the orings on the the allen head part were sized just to let air but not water past (by surface tension). Now it makes more sense and I know to clean that bit better. On my system, I just drain down to the level of the air valve or a bit lower, then do the work. I keep some old plastic container underneath for drips. This air valve has always worked but this year it has leaked out litres of water and stained the floor.

Legend, having this exact issue now and know how to fix. Thank you

The needle valve on top can be disassembled, cleaned and put back together. Use a flattened nail and hit the brass pin from te top. Then you can remove the rubber ring: grease it with vaseline. Clean the brass pin. Remove the spring and the plastic retainer. Now clean the inner lining. Reassemble the valve

Thanks for the video!. I had a WATTS AAV with the plastic allen screw in the side. I replaced with a new AAV, took the old AAV apart and it was just as you described with the spring loaded little trip lever. I soaked the old unit in CLR for a few days (disassembled), brushed the parts off and reassembled. Works like new so I now have a spare. Thanks again for the video!

@hermit3400

8 ай бұрын

I did the same thing. Now I have a spare.

I think my air vent might be giving problems. Nice to see your cat. My two have been helping.

Top man the perfect video for the fix and repair I needed to know more information about. (Touch wood) the actual cleaning of the spring loaded pin around the baby o-ring, must be what was the issue. More info if anyone is interested is this part is working spot on just bled all the radiators and no air in non of them. So for a 21+ year old boiler , may just last a bit longer. I have a JAGUAR 28 KTVJ , this part in question is sat right behind and is part of the pump assembly. Brass top lid and float as seen in video. The body of the AAV is a bespoke housing connected to the pump. Why did I fix this myself , the part is obsolete, may get lucky on eBay ??? But a clean up is what was needed.

Worked on 25 year old vaillant boiler. Thank you

Very good video

love these keep em up pal

I have a newer Tyco Hy Vent and it was leaking water. I just had to take it apart and clean the rust/scale off the float,rubber seal inside ,inner sides of the vent and make sure the large top rubber seal was clean and the tapered seat it set in was clean.Then I used a pipe wrench on the top and vice grip's on bottom to tighten the vent cap . This new vent does not have a needle type valve,just a cheap plastic lever with rubber embedded in it to make a seal. I think overall,the vent was leaking because the top cover was not tight enough to make a good seal. No leaks anymore. Hy Vents getting cheaper made,mostly plastic inside.

It’s worked, 👍 thanks a lot.

Some smaller calefi air vents won’t open as easy as this. Soak the whole thing in descaler the sludge scale etc should clean out. That applies to the last one the one that seems like a sealed unit. I have come across one without an Allen key part. Those suggesting it’s cheap enough to replace why waste money.

How tight or snug should the cap be in normal use?

We had one of them fail at work today, I opened the cap to check for air in the pipe and the water came out, closed the cap it still come out, the cap had a little o ring round the base that was split, the engineer had that problem of deciding weather or not to take it off the pipe, as he wasn't sure how much pressure was in the system after draining a load of water off, then being brave enough to unscrew the AAV typically it was in one of them closing valves, bloody typical lol, but like you say when its spraying out you would need to be brave to just keep unscrewing it off lol

The AAV has black solution leaking and going down the pipes in the airing cupboard. One engineer turned it off but did not install a new AAV, 3 months later another engineer has just turned it back on as he said it causes a build up of air and pressure in your boiler system which will cause the heating system to fail/break down. So I'm not sure if it should be turned off or kept on?? Either way it will cause issues. Please can you help! (Tank boiler system but getting to point to install a combi boiler instead!) Thanks Emma

$17 for a new one....just buy it and replace it! Avoid all the BS ;)

Yeah - I got off track there for a bit :-)

NBA.