My ender 3 had a dip along the center, so I put a strip of tin foil and that made a big difference.

@gregoryhall2967

Жыл бұрын

This works , had a low corner and just put a triangle of paper

@UnifiedInfo

Жыл бұрын

Duct foil tape for the win👍 best of both worlds lol

@Sharpless2

Жыл бұрын

My ender 3 has a dip as well. I just cut a random piece of glass i had laying around to fit the bed and attached it with clips and tape. It barely takes any longer to heat up and i get perfect layers every time

@DrakeOola

Жыл бұрын

What if I only have aluminum foil?

@jcn115

Жыл бұрын

@@DrakeOola I meant to say aluminum foil, but for whatever reason I wrote tin foil. Aluminum foil works just fine

Thank you all for being such a great community! This has been a frustration and having multipe options to try helps so much 🙏

G10 is a great material to use as a secondary baseplate. Changed my Life in printing

Anyone else both enjoy but still frustrated at the current Era of 3d printing? We get to say we were there to play and contribute to this technology in its youth. I personally believe in 20 years 50% of households will have a 3d printer.

@MsArchitectschannel

8 ай бұрын

Fuuuck off, modern 3d printers are 10x easier than when i started haha none of this auto bed leveling, decent construction, good software, none of that shit I was 15 when we got a printer, a shitty wanhau duplicator 4 (not the s) it was useless, came with ABS and said to use ABS but it didn't have an enclosure and had a massively warped steel sheet (5mm off in the middle) which the ABS didn't even stick to -_- i got loads of amazing prints out of it as a 15 year old, if i can manage it with that POS you can with these amazing printers coming out nowdays! A similarly priced printer is a bamboolab printer nowdays btw

@AshAshAshAshAshAshAshAshAshAsh

8 ай бұрын

I stopped printing for about a decade, not much has changed in that time. Just micro improvements here and there. I don’t see it being something in everyone’s house until bambu style printers are at the $300 range

@motokolo7434

10 сағат бұрын

we got bambu printers for 200$ before gta 6 🗣️🗣️

Mattercontrol slicer has it where you do the paper leveling on like 6 spots of the bed. It works awsome and they have a ton of nice settings and easy user face. Definitely my favorite slicer

You somehow always put a video up to help me fix a issue I just found. Thank you

I discovered that the center of my magnetic bed was low across the entire y axis. So, I made shims using aluminum foil. It works great and transfers heat well.

I chased this method in circles. The problem is my bed started out perfect, and it changed every hour it was heated. So there was never an opportunity to have a bed remain flat long enough to start a print, by the time you got it flat, it would warp more. The solution was to add a 2mm spongy layer of "Thermal Conductivity Pad". Then put glass on top of that. The pad will heat the glass faster, and now you can add one of the glass beds with a textured adhesion grid added to it. The removable magnetic beds for larger printers are maintenance nightmares that never really work for large prints that need the whole bed (you know, the whole reason to have a big bed). Glass with an adhesion pattern on it is a superior solution. For large prints the flex sheets don't really work well.

@MadCowMusic

Жыл бұрын

Have you tried the yellow springs?

@nerddub

8 ай бұрын

my flex sheet has been putting out build volume prints for YEARS now, it sounds like yours was poor quality,

Dude thanks for the tip. Not sure why but my printers quality and reliability went down the shitter recently. Despite the seriously warped bed it'd never been a problem till now but as I was trying and trying to level the bed I remembered this video and stuck a sticky note under one of the low spots and it worked like a charm 👍 Now I just need to grab some tape and do it Iverson again to get rid of the rest of those low spots.

I was literally just fighting this problem. The frame of my slingbed is warped. I will give it a try. Thanks coach!

I like the quick shorts! Wonderful as always!

Other option: There is MANUAL Bed leveling in Marlin. You can probably find a ready compiled marlin with it for you printer if it's stock. And don't be afraid to compile it yourself. It looks a lot scarier than it is.

@littlefrank90

Жыл бұрын

Nah it is defenitely as scary as it looks. Fiddling and compiling your own firmware is not only VERY complicated but it can also potentially brick your printer.

@frankhoffman6974

Жыл бұрын

@@littlefrank90 you gotta be a real jackass, I tried this a few days ago. I literally configured my firmware for a totally different printer. My printer appeared to be “bricked” but I ended up just trying again with the correct firmware. BAM marlin auto leveling. It drastically improved the print quality and time. DEFINITELY worth the heart attack

@Iisakki3000

Жыл бұрын

​@@littlefrank90 What in the misinformation? I mean I guess sure it "can" brick it, but realistically the worst case scenario is that you just flash the stock firmware back on it. That said klipper makes is far isier to mess with the settings of the firmware, highly recommended for anyone interested in modding their printer, who can spare a raspberry pi for the project.

@king_james_official

Жыл бұрын

@@littlefrank90 you don't have to compile anything. there are hundreds of precompiled binaries that you can download

@michaelbuckers

Жыл бұрын

@@littlefrank90 Come on m8 there's basically no way you can brick a 3d printer by flashing bad firmware. Just flash a factory one and it'll be right back in working order. Also warped bed isn't always the culprit. Sometimes it's rail sagging, because the metal isn't perfectly rigid and actually bends quite a bit even under small load. My printer has perfectly flat bed but the rails sag by 0.2mm at the center.

I used some post-its on a warped bed years ago, before switching to glass. Worked quite fine.

Out of experience I can say this does work pretty well. I had the same Idea about a half a year back and used painters tape. This is one of the many reasons why magnetic beds are the best choice for general purpose printing i my opinion. I think your suggestion to use kapton tape is better than using painters tape, because not only is it more resistant to head but also thinner and therefore allows finer adjustment. If the used tape is too thick it might raise the low points way too high, turning it into a high point, which negates the purpose. Also be aware that you might need to raise the bed temperature a bit, because you can't get rid of all the air, especially a the edges of the tape, so the air will insulate the heat.

I bought a glass bed from Creality and it also had a warp. 🙃

@ihavecojones

Жыл бұрын

really? Wow... u gotta be that really unlucky motherducker that always finds a fishbone to choke on... Are you sure your printbed isn't just really tilted over? Because I know how those glass plates are made and trust me, if one is warped... a whole series of them are warped. and you're the first one I've heard to complain about warping on a glass plate.

@ThePastaManCan

5 ай бұрын

I guess you figured out it was loose gantry ?

Thank you.I have been looking for a solution to this problem like forever every single 3.D printer I ordered had a warped bed.

I just added BLTouch to my Ender 3. It was stressful to put it on but in the end it IS SO WORTH IT!!!

I don't have any printer yet but just ordered a prusa mk4 kit and I am glad it has auto leveling. So hyped to get into 3d printing

cool, I've done almost the same but without dial gauge and used blue painter's tape (which is less pain because no air bubbles) =) great minds thinks alike!

I have a high heat (kapton) tape on mine, works great. Mine is yellow but I've seen it in clear and blue, like seen here.

I use aluminum foil squares in varying sizes.

I got an auto leveler for Christmas and went through all the steps to install it. But when it came to attaching the wires I say that the wires that I needed to remove were glued in place. So now I have an auto level on my printer that is not usable, thanks Ender 3D.

@gergthewerg

Жыл бұрын

Its hotglue, they are ways of removing it pretty easily

I modded my CR-6 with silicon spacers instead of the plastic ones, and turned the glass bed upside down and used glue instead. Now it's damn near perfect, I had over a mm difference before but now after 6 hours trial end error, fine tuning, it's down to 0.05 when I do the auto level.

This is crazy I did exactly this maybe a year ago, same kapton tape too!

About ABL not compensating enough. In my experience this is a hardware issue related to slop in the Z axis rollers. It's especially prevalent in single Z axis stepper designs like the Ender 3, as they raise slightly more on the stepper side. The nozzle just isn't moving as much as the software calls for.

@NoLongo

Жыл бұрын

I’m not convinced you can ever get rid of all the slop, but if you need that much accuracy then you should be on a better machine anyway. I used a laser cut piece of acrylic as a gauge and rested the gantry on it. I turned the height up and down by hand watching a little sliver of light appear between the gantry and the acrylic, after lot of fiddling it was almost perfect and good enough for me.

@sail4life

Жыл бұрын

@@NoLongo A dual Z axis upgrade fixed it for me. Practically a mirror finish on the first layer with PETG now.

@tayza3387

Жыл бұрын

​@@sail4lifegg

@tayza3387

Жыл бұрын

​@sail4life &gg

@tayza3387

Жыл бұрын

​

Thank you!! I currently have 4 post-it notes under my magnetic bed. I will definitely look into getting proper non-flammable tape instead!

@davewhite16

Жыл бұрын

That’s what I have 😅

Ooh, I needed this. Thanks

This! Not everything needs a high tech solution. One corner of my venerable Wanhao i3 Plus would always be too low, no matter what I did. So I cut a bigger corner out of a A4 size copy paper and put it under the flex sheet on that corner. Nothing buth great prints after.

If abl fails in 3x3 setup in your printer, try 5x5 mesh.

@skilledcamman4752

9 ай бұрын

im literally using 10x10 on 210x210 bed still doesnt help

@mathewschau9361

5 ай бұрын

Set to probe 5 to 8 times per spot then average. Youll want to tinker with the settings so you can probe fast too. I had the same issue and that fixed it for me

Thank you so much! I noticed the off area right away on my printer. I printed the sample dog and a couple small parts for the printer. I gave it up after that because it was too much of a pain in the butt. I bought a magnetic mat already, so all I need is the tape.

I did this in my early days before i started to play with firmware and added manual mesh and eventually went to bltouch and BD sensor. Auto leveling is a nice feature when you get comfortable enough to add it.

With creality that was every print struggle, with Prusa i can leave it for months and pop it back on and zero adjustments needed. Highly recommend, very reliable

This made all the difference!!!! Ty you so much

I used aluminum tape UNDER the mag base. See my vid from 9-21-20. Using it above like TT did would make it much easier to adjust if you didn’t get it right the first time

Try Axis Twist Compensation if you are running Klipper and nothing seems to fix the issue. Best to make a quick button mount that can be put into your nozzle heatblock with a battery and LED so you get a consistent distance. Because Axis Twist Compensation requires you to do a manual z offset in various locations. But it doesn't actually measure the z offset but rather the difference between the probe and your nozzle. It then averages the results around 0. Klipper will then read from a table much like auto bed leveling but based on the X axis. So if your X axis is 0.002mm off at 20 and -0.08mm off at 40 it will add 0.002mm at 20 to the probed height and add -0.08mm at 40 to the probed height and in between it will pretend the bend is linear. I made a small 3d printed button holder with 2 holes in it then pushed a button I desoldered from something into the print and together with an LED and battery I probed my printers bed 66 times. It varies between -0.06 to 0.07. So more than a single layer at 0.1mm. After saving the configuration I printed a flat 0.1mm thick thing 100x100mm and it still had some areas that were thinner than others but there were no holes nor was there any scraping on the build plate. I would strongly recommend this to people with an Ender 3 with ABL. Though it does take a while this is the only real way to correct the issue. Or if you are running a printer with dual X rods. The issue is multiplied in those. I tried making the aluminium extrusion flat again by using 2 thick iron bars and heat but it did absolutely nothing. The bars were clamped hard into the extrusion and it simply didn't help.

I added in the center of my Ender 3 S1 Pro a single post it and now it's waaaaay better

I gotta try this, I think my Ender 3's bed is a little higher in the middle. It doesn't always effect prints, but if there's a large thin surface area touching the bed, it makes noticeable defects that look like mountains when the nozzle slightly scrapes the filament

@unittwophoto

Жыл бұрын

I wouldn't do this if it's high in the middle. This would raise the middle.

Mind blown how I never thought of this.....BOOM!!!

carbon fiber slab with 5mm thickness cut and checked by a machinist, in a cnc mill, with laser sensors, thats NASA grade surface for 3D printah

Watching videos like this makes me so glad I decided to get a printer with auto bed leveling. There's enough to fiddle with already in this hobby, I don't need to add this problem into the mix :P

@1221Ralph

11 ай бұрын

My ender 3 max neo has ABL but I still need to level. Its frustrating. P1s is my next purchase

good idea, I may have to try this. I Have BLtouch and it helped a lot but not perfect even when expanding the points from 5,4 to gradually reaching 10,10.

I did this! And it works! But I used aluminum foil "ducting" tape. It works for a while but I think it's thermal expansion that created a wrinkle in the middle. So also choose a tape that won't expand. I'm thinking polyimide tape

I was so impressed when I was trying Klipper out on my printer with auto bed leveling. The UI showed me an exaggerated visualization of the points it probed on the bed, so my caveman brain could understand what it looked like and remedy it. 🤯

I made my own auto bed leveller(bfptouch if you want instructions) for ender 3 and heed my advice. 1; its awesome. 2: i made it my first project which meant i had tons of things to learn so progress was slow (start with something small). 3. The software was the bigger headache, but in retrospect there were communities i could have requested help from. Marlin has easy setup and usage, but you have to flash settings each time you change them; klipper is easier to change stuff, but you have to program the levelling sequence yourself. (Again, ask for help somewhere). Its soooo worth it. If you made it right, the accuracy is very good. Make sure the probe is as free floating as possible. If it is and you are still getting bad results, check your printer for z wobble.

i am looking for those perfect first layers

Uses an old mirror and auto leveler Haven't manually leveled my bed in like 6 months

ran mine over a marble cutting block with some 400 grit on it.. perfectly flat

The creality glass is nice. Underside grips the bed no problem after being clamped for a day.

Great tip, thank you

Creality's beds are warped from the start... Perfect quality check...

@_Wheels_21

10 ай бұрын

Same with Kingroon. I bought one, did a level check, and my build plate is the shape of an upside down bowl. It's VISIBLY warped.

@shireofthedead1

7 ай бұрын

My replacement bed for my k1 max came in flat and warped over a month from the heat cycles it looks like a Pringles chip now

I have a 3/16 thick piece of lexan. Takes about 30 minutes to get to temp and warps like mug, but prints stick like glue.

Great idea!!!

Aluminum foil (or aluminum tape) would better transfer heat, but there will be a slight air gap between areas with foil or tape and areas without them; this will reduce heat transfer and therefore surface temperature in some areas. Without measuring this, I don’t know if it would be significant, but it is a valid concern.

I have magnetic bed, and between metal plate and bed I just lay a few flat bits of aluminum foil. I think it is better because of its better thermal conductivity

I thought you were going to show us how to map your bed and then print out a custom shim out of a high temp filament. I realize the faults of that idea but now I wonder 🤔

I have a post-it-note on my Ender 3 bed , right in the middle 😂

感谢！是值得尝试的方法！

So what does it mean when I have a perfect first layer but then it starts to get all wavy on the 2nd? Overall it doesn't affect print quality but it does concern me that I'm doing something wrong.

@MadCowMusic

Жыл бұрын

Z-offset is probably a smidgen too low meaning the 2nd layer will be trying to print at the same distance from the bed as the 1st layer. Other reasons this might happen include dirty lead-screw and worn down or damaged lead-screw nut or gantry wheels. When the lead-screw nut wears down the Z-offset will change a little bit every time that axis switches directions which would happen right when the 2nd layer starts.

ive always used aluminum foil between my bed an glass or sheets an that has always took care of it for me. once its in place an clamped down from the glass or sheet it stays where u place it an it take physically pulling the aluminum sheets to get them loose so ive always suggested aluminum foil. if id suggest a tape it would have to be a aluminum tape cause i feel like most tapes would work almost like an insulator.

Sometime with cheaper printers, it's the gantry that's warped, or FOD or worn pom wheels will create the appearance of a warped bed. The ender 3 bed will bulge up from the center when heated as well. Without the dual z axis will also tend to slope on the right. Check your pom wheels under the bed and on the gantry. Also flashlight test when the bed is heated to see the effective warp when printing.

@codys1108

Жыл бұрын

Flashlight test?

Thanks mate!

This is an awesome idea! I'm going to do this to my Ender 5 Pro. It has a dip right in the middle.

I'm having a heck ofva time getting my printer to print a decent first layer. I even have dual Z, and Beacon3D surface scanner with klipper...I bet you could figure it out...

@JonCherba

Жыл бұрын

@teachingtech

@MadCowMusic

Жыл бұрын

Glue-stick!

Why'd you wanna level the *flat* spots?

Here's an idea: Maybe, just maybe, the companies that make these printers should ensure that we don't have these issues? Maybe? It's pretty ridiculous that we have to do these things.

I use kapcon tape. I get great results. Can get it really close.

Custom CNC VZ235 bed :D PROBLEM SOLVED

You can get pretty thin glass. Or get a thicker build plate.

Great idea.

Thanks

Thats why I use Prusa ❤ I have no problém with first layer.

Maybe try shims or some feeler gauges. ...Iddy its

Is that kapton tape used in the video?

Thanks, suddenly i was not able to level my bed no matter what i did. I ordered a new bed but if it eventually happens again, I'll try this.

Even the automatic Z offset doesn’t seem all too reliable sadly

my glass is bent. don’t ask how

@gergthewerg

Жыл бұрын

Haha that's so funny

@beauregardslim1914

Жыл бұрын

Mine too. Well, probably not "bent" but definitely lower in the middle. I think it is from the coating wearing out.

@whatstdiggn

Жыл бұрын

How?

@tomfiszelson1485

11 ай бұрын

it's weird but in the long run , glass is not completely solid. For example, If you measure the thickness of the glass of an old 19 century window you will see that it's thinner on the top than on the bottom.

Heat tape Use it a lot in powder coating

I honestly gave up and just put a sheet of glass on mine...Then it was heating up too much and ruined the first several layers of my prints. I gave up completely and just bought a P1S 3 years later.

I've done this but with just a sheet on a4 paper taped down

Tip works but there is a problem. On lage print i had problems that magnet cant hold print surface

What tape would you recommend for this?

Where can I get the device to measure the deformation of my bed? Thanks!

i upgraded my ender 3 V2 with BLtouch sond and its perfect.

@sebik-does-everything

6 ай бұрын

and its also cheepest

I ordered a second build plate which like the first is made of glass. Will that do?

Just get a glass bed. So worth it imo

Can't say that its smart but when mine warped I heat and cooled it in hot water a few times after cleaning and left it on a warm relatively flat bench it seem to help me out... Buuuuuut I have to add I think it was the lack of weight on the heated bed and that I think it had warped from the clips.. so take what you will from me but it helped 😆

What tape is good to go? I found M3 425, which is meant to be thermally conductive and - relatively to other tapes - quite thick, with 0.17 mm including the liner. Is that what's recommended?

Why don’t you put glass on your 3d printer? Me: it fucks up my leveling

After some time I found it way easier to just get my own piece of actually flat aluminum. Plus gave me an excuse to install mains heating and boom no more taco bed

my OG Ender-3 seems to print thicker on the left side of the bed and thinner on the right. This is only noticeable when printing larger objects that span both sides. Is this a warped bed when heated or are my sprints not set right or is my x-y axis not parallel to the bed?

1.2 mm nozzle suddenly bed leveling just doesn't matter anymore :-)

What kind of tape? Where can I get it?

Great idea, but this has some drawbacks. If you have multiple printers this locks the sheet with tape to that printer. This is also very tricky, as sometimes the difference needed is very small, and the thickness of tape or multiple layers can be too much.

@rolandogonzalez7173

Жыл бұрын

Putting the tape on the bed side instead would make sense then.

@whatstdiggn

Жыл бұрын

Follow directions please. He said put the tape on the bed not the back side of the magnetic print surface. Instructions are to remove magnetic surface first. like when people don't follow order of operations and get zero for that math problem meme.

Just get a prusa No problems with 1st layer ever 😅

What kind of tape is that?

Does Kapton Tape works for this fix?

@TeachingTech

Жыл бұрын

Yes but it's generally thin, so you will need more layers.

I feel so dumb right now. I literally have a roll of kapton tape next to my printer. This is brilliant.

@Akisame-LuigI-O

Жыл бұрын

Yeah, this tape should work. It's decently thermally conductive besides you only need a thin layer

Remove removable print surface. Level as best you can. Print a 0.1mm single layer of petg covering the whole bed, with ironing. Leave it on there, put removable surface back on top of your printed layer, re-level.

My glass bed got dips in the middle and it’s crealit

Why does filament stick to the nozzle I’ve tried adjusting and everything temps and leveling I’m using an anycubic i3 mega

@MadCowMusic

Жыл бұрын

Change the Nozzle. It might be dirty, clogged, or damaged.

@MadCowMusic

Жыл бұрын

Another quick fix to try is heating the nozzle then wiping it with a cloth; sometimes the plastic will stick to the cloth and become unstuck from the nozzle.