Oliver, this was an excellent video. The combination of video and on screen instructions was invaluable and I subscribed and liked. I also decided that this repair was beyond my abilities due to amount of disassembly, which was priceless. Thank you.

@OliverPorter92

Ай бұрын

Thanks for watching and glad it helped! Sorry you were unable to complete.

Always check the side window the sequence of operation.Very nice video in detail.Thankd

Use an electric skillet to test sensors like the high heat sensor. It should open around 220 degrees and close when it drops down to around 180 degrees. Look on it label: L220-40F. Use a laser type thermometer to measure. It may have continuity when cold, but open and close at the wrong temp.

@OliverPorter92

19 күн бұрын

@@michaeldvorak5556 great method! Thanks for sharing!

You are an absolute stallion! Thank you so much for making this video

@OliverPorter92

9 ай бұрын

Thanks for watching! So glad it helped!

Hi. I have ohms reading? But switching to beeping on multimeter there’s no beeping.

If the thermal fuse is bad , one must also replace the operating Thermostat as it must also be bad , The operating thermostat should have sensed the temperature is too high and cut off the heat well below the temperature the thermal fuse will blow at ,, the thermal fuse is there as a fail safe If the operating thermostat fails to cut off the heat when it should have done so .

Very good video...Test results for solenoids seem to be in spec... so I'm not sure why you changed them out. Could you clarify please?

@OliverPorter92

9 ай бұрын

Thanks! They would not work when installed.

My whirlpool gas dryer is lint free and clean. ignitor works and gas flame comes on for 15 seconds then goes off for 90 seconds then repeats. Is this normal with no clothes in the dryer?

My dryer starts but the igniter does not light. I replaced the igniter but no luck. Imeasured the resistance of the igniter and it was 60 ohms so its good. I measured only 56 volts across the 2 pieces of metal that hold the igniter in place. I have in the past measured 120 volts. Any tips?

@tonymallia1940

Жыл бұрын

any luck ken?

@n1kkri

Жыл бұрын

@@tonymallia1940 yes, there was no power at the igniter. The problem was the Flame sensor relay. $13 and back in business

@michaeldvorak5556

19 күн бұрын

@@n1kkri you have 2 coils in series. The ignitor is parallel to one, and the flame sensor is parallel to the other. If the sensor fails in the open state, you have power going through both coils, and the voltage to the ignitor is too low to light up the ignitor. The sensor should be closed when it first starts. This bypasses that coil and provides all the voltage across the ignitor coil to light the ignitor. When sensor detects the lite ignitor it opens, this gas valve opens and the ignitor is turned off. If the coils are working, you will have gas and a flame. The detector will see this and keep the ignitor off. If the ignitor cycles on and off but no flame, the third (secondary) coil has failed. It should have opened its valve when power was provided to the coils.