Very nice work as always!

Great idea for the safe stowage of your geni

@ninehundreddollarluxuryyac5958

5 жыл бұрын

Thanks ! Part 2 is up if you want to see the final steps in the project.

Where are you buying the honeycomb, and what is the average cost?

Can you use PVC pipe for rounded corners instead of wood corner round?

Is that polyester resin you used for the lamination?

@ninehundreddollarluxuryyac5958

5 жыл бұрын

Yes, I think its the cheapest kind, and its what the boat was originally made out of.

Is Nidacore strong enough for a boat floor?

@ninehundreddollarluxuryyac5958

5 жыл бұрын

It can be. It comes in different thicknesses from 1/4 inch to 2 inches. When laminated with glasscloth, doubling the thickness of the core increases strength by 4 times while hardly increasing weight at all. Remember, most of the weight is in the glass/resin composite skin you make, not in the core itself. I have tried the 1/4, the 3/4 and 1 inch for various applications. The 1/4 inch is kind of weak for a floor, especially if there is much of a span between supports. If you were building a racer or an airplane cabin floor where weight is the big issue, I would try 3/4 core with just one layer of light, woven cloth on each side. Dropping a sharp object could do some damage to the super-thin skin, so for a cruiser, I'd use the same 3/4 thick panel with the cloth and a layer of chopped strand mat on top just for protection from heavy or sharp things. When I made my countertop, I put a layer of chopped strand, a layer of woven cloth and another layer of chopped strand. It is much, much stronger than it needs to be, and actually getting a bit heavy (maybe 20-30 pounds). If I had it to do over, I think I'd do one layer of chopped strand mat on each side. I'm glad I have the three layers in the supports under the generator doghouse though. For anything structural, weight bearing, or under considerable stress, definitely alternate layers of chopped strand mat and woven cloth on top of a thick core. Remember, adding core thickness increases strength considerably without adding weight, while adding layers of glass increases weight rapidly.

@davemall1

5 жыл бұрын

@@ninehundreddollarluxuryyac5958 Thanks for the reply, I am planning on replacing stringers, floor and probably a transom on an 18' ski boat. This product looks great. Do you have any suggestions on how to mount a pedistal seat to it? It doesn't look like it will take a screw very well in a high stress area.

@ninehundreddollarluxuryyac5958

5 жыл бұрын

@@davemall1 It could work really well for making stringers and floor. Older boats have wood stringers which can rot and cause the kind of problems you're probably trying to fix. Most modern boats including all Carver models ending in 7 and above, have fiberglass stringers. A lot of times the stringers shape is made with foam, and layers of fiberglass are built up using the foam as a form to shape the glass. The foam has zero strength, its only a mold for the glass which is the structural strength of the stringer. One often overlooked solution is to lay up a bunch of layers of fiberglass over the rotted wood. Use fairing compound if necessary so you have a rounded fillet at the edge between hull and stringer, then run fiberglass over the stringer and out onto the inside of the hull. Cut each layer of glass a bit longer than the previous one so it extends a bit farther out onto the inside of the hull. This tabbing should be pretty wide, at least 6 or 8 inches to assure the bond between your newly created fiberglass stringer and the hull. Tab it in this way whether you use foam, nidacore, or your old stringers to form the glass. Nidacore acts like end-cut wood as a core material. It resists crushing in one dimension better than the other two. Its literally a bundle of plastic straws, so the straws crush easily from the sides but are impossible to crush in the long direction of the straws in the bundle of straws if that makes sense. Nidacore has the straws "on-end" going from the top face of the panel to the bottom face so this is the direction where it will be extremely strong. Your stringers will be strongest if you get the thickest nidacore and lay the flat, furry side against the hull. If the stringer needs to be taller than that, put resin on top and lay another layer of nidacore on top so the resin glues them both together. They are stronger if they can't slide across each other. I'd put a backing plate made of metal, starboard, or even wood below the nidacore deck and screw the pedestal into the backing plate or bolt through it with the core in between. Remember, this is the direction in which the core will most resist crushing. Run your backing plate as wide as you have space for. The wider the backing plate, the more it spreads the load out over a bigger area of core. I'm no expert. I've only used these materials for four months so far. This is just based on what I've learned about it so far. Good luck with your restoration project. Its always rewarding to make something work again.