EP 1 RALPH LAUREN & BRUCE WEBER - THE IMAGE MAKERS
Ойын-сауық
The way in which a fashion label presents itself to the world can be just as important as the garments it makes. Before a customer gets anywhere near the clothes, chances are they’ll have some impression of the brand’s broader image, and that means a designer’s work must be backed up with a strong and distinctive advertising campaign to generate a dedicated audience.
Nacho Figueras and his family "Romance" for Ralph Lauren | Photograph by Bruce Weber
The Designer/ Photographer Partnerships that Changed the World
Creating a unique and original image that projects wide appeal and an underlying aura of exclusivity, is far from an easy task.. And this is when the world’s top-tier fashion photographers rise above the rest. By capturing the spirit of a brand along with the designer’s vision, they present the clothing in a way that’s both inspiring, enticing, and recognisable over a prolonged period of time.
Let’s look at some of fashion’s most successful collaborations between design houses and the world’s high end photographer’s; exploring how the “magic touch” of the top tier fashion photographers can turn a little-known atelier into an instantly recognisable icon. Examining the influential brands and their photographers that became synonymous with them, the following is a breakdown of how creative execution can develop into a world-famous signature brand image over time.
Today we will take an in-depth look at the collaborative partnership between luxury fashion designer, Ralph Lauren, and the famous photographer, Bruce Weber.
BRUCE WEBER AND RALPH LAUREN
Once described by Interview magazine as presenting “an idealised version of America, one that’s both tantalising close and impossibly romantic,” Weber has created a new standard for high end fashion photography. His diverse body of work spans five decades, starting with his all-American campaigns for Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren, and Abercrombie and Fitch in the 80s and 90s, which made him a household name. As prolific as he is diverse, Weber has graced the cover of high-end magazines world-wide, shooting everything from travel photography to fashion campaigns for luxury fashion brands such as Versace and Louis Vuitton. He is also passionate about portraiture and documentary photography photographing personalities from David Bowie, Kate Moss, and Jane Goodall.
Bruce Weber was born and raised just outside Pittsburgh, in the farming and coal-mining town of Greensburg, PA. His love affair with the camera started early-Bruce would often spend Sunday afternoons doing art projects and making 8mm films in the backyard.
In 1966, after a couple of years studying art at Denison College in Ohio, Weber transferred to New York University to study acting. His first apartment was a fifth-floor walkup between Little Italy and Chinatown-freezing in the winter, blazing in the summer. It was there that Bruce built his first small darkroom and started taking headshot portraits for actors and actresses and models like Bethann Hardison who were just starting out.
In many ways, this proved to be great training for his future as a fashion and portrait photographer. Bruce talked endlessly with each person about what they wanted their headshot to express, and how to communicate that feeling through the clothes they would wear and the lighting he would use.
THE EARLY DAYS
Citing his early mentors to be artistic greats such as Diane Arbus, and Bea Feitler, the renowned art director of Harper’s Bazaar, Weber was soon mixing in the right circles to launch his photography career.
Arbus instructed Bruce to enrol in classes with her old teacher, Lisette Model. Model was one of several people who encouraged him early in his career to express his emotions through his photos. In an interview with the UK Telegraph, he said, “I think that most photographers are basically pretty shy... Model’s classes gave me a lot of courage to go out and speak the truth about my feelings, about what I saw and what I wanted to see.”
At one time, Weber showed Bea Feitler some portraits, and she asked if he liked what he’d shot. Not really, he had to admit. She said, “Do your pictures. I don’t want to you to do what you thought I’d like. I want you to do what you have in your head and your heart."
WRITTEN BY CHITTI LARDI
EDITED BY REBECCA ANDREIS
Пікірлер: 16
I modeled for Bruce a few times about 10 years ago. He's the most genuine and sincere photographer I've ever met. I hate that a few bad seeds have tarnished his name. I heard bad stories in Miami before going over to his house. Those models were probably just upset that they weren't invited to meet him. I was treated respectfully and Bruce really was genuinely interested in learning about me as a person. My agent told him I was a photographer and he even wanted to see my pictures. I'm now embarrassed at the amateur tier snapshots I showed him lol. It was a fascinating experience. He was so down to earth and easy to talk to. It was like being in a nice dream. In hindsight, I should've been more open to putting on that plush frog hat. Photographers are generally sensitive people and I put a small wall up. That wall was respected. I still model and his name comes up at times; people love to trash him...as they did back in those days before I met him. I make it a point to tell everyone how kind and sincere he was with me personally. My story kind of falls on deaf ears but, I'll always stick up for the man. PS I loved this video! Thanks for uploading it :)
@Fashionindustrybroadcast
7 ай бұрын
Thanks Will, we have spoken to many massive models who worked with Bruce, TYSON BECKFORD, John Pearson, MARCUS SCHENKENBERG, Sean O'Pry. The biggest names. All of them spoke highly of Bruce.
An amazing photographer and I have always loved his style! Especially in the Ralph Lauren campaigns.
@Fashionindustrybroadcast
10 ай бұрын
Couldn't agree more!
When a creative mind meets the right lense to share their vision with the world...🎉
Amazing video ❤
@Fashionindustrybroadcast
Жыл бұрын
Hi Rita, Glad you liked it!! Love it if you Subscribed and liked our channel xxx
beautiful video
@Fashionindustrybroadcast
6 ай бұрын
Thank you
I might understand how 16 year old girls can't protect themselves from predators. But tall strong athletic men is another story. Why, if anything happened, didn't they say no then instead of telling stories now? Not that I don't believe this could happen, it is that huge sportive strong men cannot be victims of an older chubby photographer. They always could say NO instead of monetizing the situation. They don't look like victims but just regular opportunists.
@Fashionindustrybroadcast
Жыл бұрын
Vladimir FIB spoke t0 a dozen of the most famous people who worked with Bruce as agents, models, editors, stylists and clients. Not one of them said Bruce was anything but professional with them. The fashion business on both the creative side and the business side is full of openly gay people. Being sexual predator is not a habit that will help your career, whether you are straight or gay. From what we learnt it is hard to imagine Bruce Weber as the predator he was accused of being buy a handful of no name supposed 'models'. Some of whom have questionable histories and credibility. And one can see how some 'opportunist' types would see Bruce as an easy target to try and extort.
Let’s just wait for all the woke ‘cancel culture’ pile on about how Bruce is a sexual villain predator. But who knows anything for certain except what he did with his lens.
@Fashionindustrybroadcast
Жыл бұрын
It would be good if people commented on what the film is about, the creative partnership and the power of the image in creating these iconic powerhouse brands. It's a remarkable story. And we have many more amazing stories in this series.
@Fashionindustrybroadcast
Жыл бұрын
It is true that Ralph Lauren as well as Conde Nast was forced to stop working with Bruce as a result of the allegations in the media. Whether that was just or not will never be certain. What we do know is that 'cancel culture' is a real thing, and it is often not based on a fair hearing of the two sides. The accuser often stands as judge, jury and executioner. Just ask Johnny Depp.
@CuirPhotodotNet
Жыл бұрын
@@Fashionindustrybroadcast .....hmmm....where do i begin....the partnership between RL....and BW...is a full circle effect of the influences.... of CINEMA and FASHION....the NYC garment industry produced CINEMA to begin with ...and CINEMA created AMERICANA...as a world wide cultural ideal.......the people of the Great Depression...and the Baby Boomer generations are the biggest groups of people to embrace the dreams the 2 worlds created.....what Bruce and Ralph did was use all of the tools of idealization to sell very stylish clothes that everyone can wear and the clothes wear like IRON...and NEVER go out of style...the 2 gentlemen posed the most interesting question to me....what is more ravishing....to wear the clothes ...or appreciate the ads...i wish there would have been a serious exploration of the worlds Bruce created in his ads for Ralph...and Calvin together...that would have shown more of his versatility and effect on the planet as one of the most influential artists on the planet...i remember him saying that his images for Ralph...were about...PERFECT BREEDING....while his work with Calvin....was about THREATENING SEXUALITY....which fundamentally is what America is all about...the TENSION of PRESENTATION of what the USA is....the ILLUSION of being SHINING and IMMACULATE..for the PLANET...and the MODERNITY of what it means to be an INDIVIDUAL...to have FREEDOM and LIBERTY...and to be able to ALWAYS be STRONG....and VITAL....and DYNAMIC enough to EXPRESS IT....read as YOUNG...VIBRANT....and SEXY...REGARDLESS of GENDER...or SEXUAL ORIENTATION......i enjoy his work....i think history will be kind to him in the long run...and i do also hope very much that the men who have levelled those accusations against him find peace....
@Fashionindustrybroadcast
Жыл бұрын
Amen to that Cornelius !