In the third instalment of "The Image Makers," we explore a collaborative partnership which is truly unique. It is between revered fashion photographer, Nick Knight and the legendary designer, Alexander McQueen. The partnership runs deeper than a professionally advantageous collaboration, presenting if you will, a merger of minds. The imagery and artwork produced in the twelve years that Night and McQueen worked together blurred boundaries, and continually pushed conservative norms; exemplifying the brilliant results that can be achieved when two creative geniuses join forces.
Nick Knight refers to himself as an image-maker -but within the fashion industry, the 56-year-old is regarded as one of the most influential photographers of this century.
Born Nicholas David Gordon in London in 1958, he followed artistic leanings from an early age. He studied at Bournemouth and Poole College of Art and Design. Around this time, his first photography book, "Skinheads", hit the shelves in 1982.
Before completing his studies, his rise to one of the world’s most sought-after photographers had already started. His notoriety led to a commission by I-D magazine’s editor, Terry Jones, for its fifth-anniversary issue. During this time, he also worked with Japanese designer Yohji Yamamoto - shooting his 1986 catalogue under the art director Marc Ascoli. From there, he went on to create successive catalogues for the designer, before scoring a position as the commissioning picture editor for i-D.
Knight has developed a worldwide reputation as an avant-garde digital artist and fashion photographer. His work continually pushes the boundaries of societal expectations, resulting in electrifying and captivating images. They leave an indelible mark in one’s mind, the result of three decades of tireless work. His impressive portfolio of images conveys a deeper subtext behind their subliminal advertising.
Knight's desire to experiment with cutting-edge technologies is the reason behind the launch of his fashion website SHOWstudio.com. Its debut in 2000 aimed to show "the entire creative process from conception to completion."
His ability to work outside recognisable paradigms is the reason that Alexander McQueen sought him out to discuss collaboration. Nick Knight, in turn, saw a reciprocal imagination in the designer that knew no boundaries. He later tells Huffington Post:
"(McQueen) wanted to do things differently from everybody else... To do things that felt much more exciting to work on... More experimental and more dangerous.”
Throughout his tragically short life, some of Alexander McQueen's nicknames include "l'enfant terrible," and "the hooligan of English Fashion", due to his working-class origins, and rebellious nature. He put controversial, eyebrow-raising shows on the map, often causing outrage; forcing people to reflect on their own ethical choices.
Undeterred, McQueen continued with his showstopping runway shows and mesmerising designs. This garnered the love and adulation of fashion worshippers the world over. His designs exhibit attention to detail and costume-like beauty seldom seen. And as a result, rockstars (David Bowie), A-List celebrities (Sarah Jessica Parker) and socialites (Plum Sykes) lined up for custom fittings. Even among the critics, he was noted for his exceptional talent, innovation, and unquestionably - among the best in his craft.
He was born Lee Alexander McQueen on March 17, 1969 in Lewisham, London. The youngest of six kids, his father was a taxi driver, his mother, a teacher.
Throughout interviews, he often speaks of being the "pink sheep" of the family. It is a reference to him being a misfit, but not a reject. At 18 years old, he told his family that he was gay. By that time, he describes having known for at least 10 years. After a rocky period, his family accepted his sexuality. His close relationship with his mother and protective love for his sisters influenced a lot of his work. His designs became a form of empowerment for women; referring to them as a layer of armour that could be used against the cruelties of the modern world.
"I grew up with three older sisters, and I saw them go through a lot of shit, I always wanted to be able to protect them."
He explains, in an interview with The Guardian. "They would call me up to their room and I'd help them pick out clothes for work. Just, you know, what skirt with what cardigan, but I was always trying to make them look strong and sheltered."
DIRECTED BY PAUL G ROBERTS
WRITTEN BY CHITTI LARDI
EDITED BY REBECCA ANDREIS