Excellent video again Brian. I have been telling some of my brew friends to start and follow you and get more insight on your expertise in electric brewing. Looking forward to next vid.

@ShortCircuitedBrewers

7 жыл бұрын

Thanks really appreciate the share too! Cheers!

I have 3 DSPR300 and 2802A running my system with a dedicated small HERMS vessel.

@ShortCircuitedBrewers

7 жыл бұрын

Nice! how do you like those?

@count2719

7 жыл бұрын

I like the second element option of DSPR300 for the boil kettle...I use it to quickly heat strike water in the boil kettle or to boil.

@ShortCircuitedBrewers

7 жыл бұрын

Nice thanks for watching! Cheers! -Brian

@count2719

7 жыл бұрын

Waiting to see the DSPR build. Cheers!

@ShortCircuitedBrewers

7 жыл бұрын

working on it. Stay tuned! :-)

Brian, I am going to build mine from your list of components. As a note, you missed the DSPR-120 unless I missed it on the list. Did you make a vid of actually putting it together?

@ShortCircuitedBrewers

3 жыл бұрын

I do not. This was a hypothetical build. I did do a series on a electric brewing kit for a herms system. I'm actually not a fan of the dspr120 to be honest had 3 go bad just out of warranty..auber wouldn't do anything.

Hi Brian, been following your channel a Lil while and really like what you guys are doing. I think your vids are very good for advanced and new brewers as well. I think you really try to make it easy to get your concepts across. I'm in the process of putting together a control panel right now. However, I'm going to do a 60 amp panel for various reasons for the way I want to use the system. I have never used an electric brewing system before and read and watch all I can. I know many brewers use the same type of system, differently, ie: their methods. The most popular seems to be the 30 amp like in this video series. At around 8 minutes in, you say, you add water to the MT and the HLT and start the recirculation in the HLT? My question is, do you mean you recirculate the HLT through the coil and through the MT to preheat it, and then use some of that heated water for strike water , AND have enough hot water left in the HLT (to have your coil covered, WITHOUT ADDING additional water) to start recirculating the mash right away? I understand some guys , with a 30amp system, fill the HLT to max capacity, and drain off what's needed for strike water, THEN top off the HLT to at least cover the coil? The route I want to go is, heat strike water in BK, and fill and heat HLT simultaneously so I have the HLT/HERMS ready as soon as I mash in. Hence the larger Amps. I hope my babble/question, is not to confusing. lol Thanks

@ShortCircuitedBrewers

7 жыл бұрын

Glad you have found the series informative and helpful! I was a little concerned that part might be confusing. There are several different ways to achieve your mash in water temperatures. One way is to fill your MLT with the appropriate volume of water for mash in, fill the HLT with the appropriate amount for your sparge, recirculate both volumes while heating the HLT to mash in temp. Once mash in is reached, mash in with your grains. One issue with this... Your HLT mash temp after mash in is still at the strike temp. The issue here is that when you start recirculating your mash it will raise above your target mash in temp thus overshooting your mash temp. A 50 or 60 amp panel would be able to heat your mash water in the BK and the sparge water in the HLT to the exact mash temp simultaneously, so that when you transfer your mash water from your boil kettle to the mash tun your HLT is at the correct temp to maintain your mash temp. NOW.. here is the tricky part of that. Your mash tun's thermal mass is going to reduce the temp of your mash/strike water from the kettle when transferred, therefore you will have to play around with how much above your mash in temp you heat your mash water above the appropriate strike point for you mash. IE. if your mash in/strike temp is supposed to be 169 you might need to heat your strike water in the boil kettle to 180 so that when you transfer it to your mash tun the temp drops to 169 or very close to it. Since I have a 20 gallon BK I usually heat most of the volume for the MLT and HLT at the same time.(usually about 180) then fill my mash tun first, (temp drops after transfer to about 169) then transfer the remainder to the HLT and add cold water to the HLT to both achieve the volume I need AND cool it down to the high 140's - low 150's. (which is not an issue since your HLT will adjust from those temps rather quickly) I know that is probably the longest response to a question ever.. lol But i wanted to explain a little more. Would a video on this be helpful at all? I have thought about doing one but wasn't sure.. Let me know. -Brian

@Esmiteee

7 жыл бұрын

Sure, do a video of the different ways to do the herms mash in. I think that people do it all different ways under the name of "HERMS". I understand your version, makes sense to me. Also, it's system specific on how exactly you do it. Yes, I will be heating up strike water in my BK while also heating .....let's call it "mash recirculate water", technically, it's really not sparge water yet. It will turn into sparge water after the mash has ended and the temp is raised. And Yes, as You point out about having the strike water that is heated in the BK and pumped to the MT, the temp will drop. I think what I'll be doing is, once the strike water is nearing the correct temperature in the BK, I'll start to recirculate it to the MT and back to the BK for a short time to prepare heat the MT. will see how that goes as soon as I get my system complete.

@ShortCircuitedBrewers

7 жыл бұрын

I agree there are many ways to do the transfer.. in our recent.live broadcast, I did it yet another way. Heated mist of the water in the BK, put 3 gsllons of cold in the HLT then transferred to the MLT by circulating through the coil to preheat it. The MLT was cold and when I transferred the strike water I was only a coupke of degrees off.

@Esmiteee

7 жыл бұрын

Oh, I watched the live brew, but you were all ready mashing when I tuned in. So I missed that part. I did however witness the part when your wife went to get the pizza.........I yelled ahhhhhh, cause I seen it coming. That sucks, but, that's exactly how that happens. your reactions were great. Oh well, nothing you can do about it.

@ShortCircuitedBrewers

7 жыл бұрын

LOL That was not funny at the time but made for some comedy during the broadcast. Thanks for watching the channel. Cheers!

I am curious why you need the contactor before the SSR's. You said to turn the element on and off I think. Isn't that what the SSR does according to the on/off signal sent by the PID? Is the Contactor for system safety? My setup does not have the contactor and works fine. Just curious incase I should be adding contactors. Thanks

@ShortCircuitedBrewers

7 жыл бұрын

SSR'S generally fail to the ON state. The contactor is the in the power "chain" for protection in the event the SSR fails to the ON state the contactor allows you to terminate the power to the elemeny manually.

@toddwebster917

7 жыл бұрын

That makes sense now. I have see this first and did not think about that situation. I have used the cheap FOTEK SSR's. They overheat very easy and lock on. I have a switch on each element to physically kill power to the element when needed. I ended up switching to the Auber SSR's and added 2 fans to the box to suck air from top to bottom through the box and the SSR's stay nice and cool!

@ShortCircuitedBrewers

7 жыл бұрын

Whatever works.. safety first.. Cheers!

you have the dspr 120 on the boil kettle, could you not just use another syl 2352 in it's place ?

@ShortCircuitedBrewers

4 жыл бұрын

It's bad too.. Lol I have it there as a passive temp reader. The SSR output on it is dead too.

@kevinmurphy4712

4 жыл бұрын

@@ShortCircuitedBrewers No the DSPR120 is going to the ssr for the boil kettle, I was wondering if I could just use a syl2352 in it's place to control the boil.

@ShortCircuitedBrewers

4 жыл бұрын

If I rewired it I could. Or switch the power and sensor cables. Was not really worth all that effort honestly. I was fine with the temp being goofy. It still boiled fine.

@kevinmurphy4712

4 жыл бұрын

I found the answer, thanks

@ShortCircuitedBrewers

4 жыл бұрын

@@kevinmurphy4712 did I miss the question?

It is unclear as to what the 2nd SYL-2352 is being used for, terminal 7 and 8 are not connected to anything? Just for temp readings? I imagine you have a temp probe in HLT, and another temp probe on the output of your herms coil so you can figure out what temp wort you are sending into your mash tun. My herms portion is a PID with a 5 gallon pot ( so I can step up temp fast) with an element and temp probe with a small herms coil, and a non electric analog temp gauge on output from herms coil. There is water loss on the 5 gallon HLT pot after an hour (or more depending on step or mash out) of recirculating. It will be interesting to see if that herms tube blows pressure or keeps enough water in to keep element wet. Thanks for all you contribute!

@ShortCircuitedBrewers

7 жыл бұрын

You are correct the middle PID is to monitor mash temp.. as a side note it came in handy when my BK PID stopped going into manual mode. swapped them out.. BREW ON.. Yeah it will be interesting. Mike did put a 1300 watt element in it and did not have any issues. adding a PID to it will be an adventure. we are going to put a pressure relief on it so we don't make a bomb. . lol Thanks as always for watching! Cheers! -Brian

@ShortCircuitedBrewers

7 жыл бұрын

Oh I almost forgot, what the real pain was... making that coil.. we did that ourselves filled the copper with sand and coiled it around a round wooden post that was a real pain. Not for the weak or faint of heart... lol

@adammarcus8562

7 жыл бұрын

Short Circuited Brewers You aren't kidding , made mine that way to less the sand and 6 inch diameter post. all copper counterflow chiller using the same post was harder yet. Thanks for the reply@

At 4:36 you only need 2 x 120 volt and 3 x 240 volt lights

@ShortCircuitedBrewers

4 жыл бұрын

ok. Is there a question?

@kevinmurphy4712

4 жыл бұрын

@@ShortCircuitedBrewers You said it the other way around

@ShortCircuitedBrewers

4 жыл бұрын

Oh.. well shoot!! Messed it up again!!

@speedbuggy7240

3 жыл бұрын

@@kevinmurphy4712 I just want thank you for asking questions. I'm new to home brewing and I would never have caught any of what you did. Thanks to you I'll be using the syl-2352 as well.. Did you find any other errors or is there anything you recommend to do different? I was also thinking of using a newer style of fuses instead of the old round ones. Do you think there would issues using a different style of fuses?

@kevinmurphy4712

3 жыл бұрын

@@speedbuggy7240 Just think of a safety concern, the more safe the better.

No coupon code for Auber ?

@ShortCircuitedBrewers

4 жыл бұрын

Nah they're stingy... Lol

@kevinmurphy4712

4 жыл бұрын

@@ShortCircuitedBrewers Thanks just the same...lol

@ShortCircuitedBrewers

4 жыл бұрын

@@kevinmurphy4712 👍🍻

I almost stopped listening when you said that "beer isn't worth dying over" jk jk

@ShortCircuitedBrewers

7 жыл бұрын

LOL Maybe next time I will say... ALMOST not worth dying over!! Thanks for Watching! -Brian

Way too much garbage to brew beer. Anyone who needs this much bling to brew beer should just buy a keg of Sam Adams and be done with it...

@ShortCircuitedBrewers

5 жыл бұрын

What type of brewing system do you prefer to brew on? Cheers! 👍🍻

@dirtyblond2332

5 жыл бұрын

@@ShortCircuitedBrewers - 20 years of brewing over propane, but switched to electric last year after a minor distilling snafu (fuel alcohol) ;) We use 5500w elements and control with a simple PWM for both beer and fuel. Everything is stainless or copper, for sanitary reasons (copper for still removes sulphur), so we have nice equipment, but flashing lights and digital displays somehow would take away the romance and replace it with a chinese automation feel. While I can appreciate the bling for what it is, pretty, in my experience, its just multiple added potential failure points. My point was, all the flashing lights in the world wont make your product better if you cant brew by the basics to begin with. I know a long list of folks with pretty control boxes who cant make a beer worth drinking, while I know many guys and gals that can make some of the best craft you'll ever taste, from home depot buckets. To each their own.