I just used black gorilla tape and put the original piece back in. I really respect the effort you went to doing this job. I did put pink foam board under my fresh watertank to insulate it better.

@AlcoholFreeRV

2 жыл бұрын

I had previously had FlexMend Underbelly tape along with the zip-tie stiches on my previous attempt. I wanted to avoid losing things again :) And I've been known to go for the "bigger hammer" approach once or twice before lol

Remember a level is a precision instrument, using it as a brace, may affect its accuracy.

Jackstands would probably be very useful in holding up the sheet so that your hands are free to fix your strapping just an idea

Great job..

@AlcoholFreeRV

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks!

Seems like this was only one episode of a multi-part series! Lots of good information here, but the video needs a "Part 2" so we can see the final result. Now that 8 or 9 months have gone by since you posted this, how did things work out? Any further incidents with the underbelly ripping off at highway speeds? Did your idea of wrapping the coroplast around the sewer pipe work OK? My 2005 Travel Supreme 5th wheel had a sealed galvanized steel underbelly that was heated and fully insulated with Fiberglass Pink. Over the years, several leaks had developed and filled the underbelly with lots of water and water-logged insulation. It was real ugly. So, I am pulling all that off, repairing the leaks and other anomalies that I have discovered and then enclosing it all with coroplast topped with Reflectix and foamboard insulation to help keep things rigid. I am toying with the idea of installing two layers of 4mm coroplast with the corrugation layered in opposing directions for a little extra lateral strength. I spoke with my coroplast wholesaler, and he recommended that the coroplast sheets be joined and sealed to each other and to the frame pieces is to use construction-grade, weatherproof "Tuck Tape". The semi-transparent red stuff used in building envelopes.