Great video

@buildanddrive

Ай бұрын

Merci jeffrey

Nice video 📹 👍

@buildanddrive

11 ай бұрын

Thanks Omar! 🙏🏽

Excellent content, where did you access inpa from?

@buildanddrive

Ай бұрын

Search for 'mikes easy bmw tools' and see if it works for you. Been a few years since I had to install it.

Sometimes those valves give no error codes sadly, while the flaps are not functioning correctly. Only way to be sure is to pull them out and do the actuation test and physically look and confirm, that the valves fully close and open.

@buildanddrive

2 ай бұрын

Yes, very true. I had one code for disa and I cleared it, then it only came back once. I think the flap breaks and then the shaft can turn freely again so the ECU thinks "the disa flap is turning" so there's no problem and it doesn't give you the code anymore. Good point.

I recently bought a 135k 328i, and I noticed a few crackling sounds during acceleration. From your videos, it might just be the Disa valve, but mines an N51

@buildanddrive

10 ай бұрын

Does it sound similar to the video?

@SujoyShivde

10 ай бұрын

​@@buildanddriveYes, sounds quite similar. But feels more like a slight crackle which gets better after the engine is hot

What code reader do you use? regular OBD or something specially for BMW

@buildanddrive

2 ай бұрын

Obd2 cable for BMWs. depending on which model bmw you have, you need to get the right cable. Some cars have the dcan bus system you need to be able to integrate with.

Where did you get your Inpa program from?

@buildanddrive

Ай бұрын

Google mikes bmw tools and you'll need to buy a obd2 cable.

🎉

@buildanddrive

11 ай бұрын

💪🏽

May i ask why ur seatbelt and airbag on? I wana know i got a long stupid story and want more info to pin point the problem that was before another problem that occurred

@buildanddrive

5 ай бұрын

It took a while to figure out but was the clock spring circuit that failed. You'll have to check your seatbelt circuits, airbag and clockspring. It could also be the airbag module itself. I show how to fix it here: kzread.info/dash/bejne/kX9tp6NwabCyoLw.html

Maybe a bit late to the party but the oil in the intake indicates either a bad/worn CCV or a CCV without heater hoses. Sitting for a longer period of time, then starting will cause oil in the intake on the N52 as well. Usually a bad CCV works it's way down the line and kills the DISA valves too.

@kaiwest_

4 ай бұрын

Also pothole damage is known for killing the CCV and DISA valves so if your bmw has been crashed or damaged in some way it's very recommended to just outright replace these parts even if they aren't immediately showing problems, because they probably will.

@buildanddrive

4 ай бұрын

Didnt know about the pothole thing. CCV failed every 2 years so yes, eventually it killed both DISA valves.

Do you know where the 872-405 A wire goes and the 7507524.9 I've been having trouble finding the place to plug it in

@buildanddrive

10 ай бұрын

Can you send me a photo on Instagram?

@ykstayfaded

10 ай бұрын

@@buildanddrive turns out i had a 330i manifold on my 328i so i got the wrong manifold which didnt have the 2 orange sensor wire plugins so i ordered a 330i one and it should be running after that

My n52 clicks sort of like a clock every other second. I only notice it at idle when I'm outside the car, would it be this? I'm at 266k miles. Kind of sounds like an electric motor is stuck and its trying to move every other second.

@buildanddrive

3 ай бұрын

Can you send me a video on Instagram?

what brand did you buy? I might modify flaps instead since DISAS so expensive so better buy DIY flaps kit from US or Ukraine :)

@buildanddrive

11 ай бұрын

Yes, you can buy the kit with the long metal pin and rebuild it. The brand was some Chinese brand off eBay.

Please share the link for the DISA valve you purchased!

@buildanddrive

11 ай бұрын

No, the seals in this disa valve failed after a year. Get a mahle or valeo part instead if you really want to keep the car a long time

@octuple187

10 ай бұрын

@@buildanddrive How do you find out which brands are OEM?

@buildanddrive

10 ай бұрын

Normally Valeo or Malhe are OEM spec

I have same issue. Is it bad if i dont find the plastic pin. It can be in intake manifold. Do I need to take intake manifold off and try to find it?

@buildanddrive

9 ай бұрын

If you want to, did you find the flap at least?

@rassez1253

9 ай бұрын

@@buildanddrive yea i found it! I wiil try to find the plastic pin but if i dont find it inside the intake manifold then I dont know where it can be. I think the pin has been loose like 2000km so I dont think that im going to find it but I still want to try.

@razvan1927

5 ай бұрын

Don't bother , the plastic pin has been sucked in engine , this happen to me , but the engine is running normal that means the pin was melted and gone into exhust , luckly this disa has plastic pin if it was metal I was screwed@@rassez1253

Looking for help, I had a code related to tank ventilation, I changed the part but after a month it came back again with code related to tank ventilation, this is the second time changing that part in a month,I don't know what could be happening, I always use gasoline 93.

@buildanddrive

3 ай бұрын

What's is the code?

@alpinen52ny79

3 ай бұрын

@@buildanddrive 2A1A- TANK VENTILATION FUNCTION.

Les comparto mi experiencia y solución: Tengo un BMW 530i (E60) con motor n52... Todo comenzó con el clásico chillido que hace el vehículo cuando la válvula pcv está dañada, así lo dejé pensando que era alguna polea, le cambié la banda y la polea loca y el chillido seguía, otro síntoma es que el vehículo de la nada se me apagaba, y comence a notar que el consumo de gasolina no era el óptimo, lo volvía a encender y andaba de nuevo, después hice la prueba con el motor encendido intentaba quitar el tapón del aceite y era tanta la succión que a veces ni siquiera lo podía quitar, lo que me llevó a la conclusión de que la válvula pcv estaba dañada... Después cambie la pcv (en estos motores se cambia la tapa de punterías completa, ya que la pcv viene integrada a la tapa), y asunto arreglado, se quitó el chillido y dejó de apagarse de la nada, hasta aquí todo bien.... Pasó el tiempo y noté que el consumo de gasolina estaba muy elevado y el carro comenzó a hacerme otros síntomas, ralentí inestable, y cuando el motor caía a las 600-700 rpm, el coche comenzaba a vibrar, pero era una vibración excesiva en general, adentro se escuchaba demasiado, el volante, tablero, el habitáculo vibraba mucho y sentí que el carro tenía pérdida de potencia, Check engine encendido con código de falla 2AA9, pero ojo!!, Primero lo escanee con un escáner clásico, actron sencillo y no arrojaba código, hasta que le metí un escáner más completo y con este si lo arrojó, por lo que recomiendo que lo escaneen con el mejor posible... Después quité las 2 válvulas disa y sorpresa!, todo el colector de admisión tenía residuos de aceite, quite el sistema de admision, le hice su limpieza, probé las disa y estaban atascadas, las abrí para checarlas por dentro y que creen?...la disa primaria tenía ya el motor oxidado y con residuos de aceite, le hice su limpieza y volvió a la vida!, pero la secundaria estaba inundada de aceite! Y la tarjeta electrónica que lleva se estropeó, solo pude rescatar la disa primaria, así que preferí comprar las 2 disa usadas en buen estado y originales, que nuevas genéricas... Después hice las pruebas para checar las válvulas, es importante que hagan la prueba de esta manera: coloquen las disa usadas en su lugar pero sin conectar, teniendo las disa nuevas afuera, les puse sus conectores para poder observarlas, eché a andar el vehículo y la primaria cerró por completo y se mantuvo cerrada en ralentí (así debe ser), y la secundaria cerró entre las 3500 y 4500 rpm (así debe ser también), y dependiendo las rpm están abriendo y cerrando todo el tiempo, por lo que concluí que estaban en perfecto estado, ya solo armé todo nuevamente y asunto arreglado, el coche anda perfecto, y ya no tiene ningún síntoma que les mencioné, le borré el código y ya no apareció más.. En conclusión, cuando noten el primer síntoma o que la pcv comienza a dar problemas, no duden en cambiarla inmediatamente!!, esto les evitará problemas con las disa y créanme, les ahorrará bastante tiempo y dinero (disa nuevas, gasto de gasolina innecesaria, sensores, etc)... Si en algo les puedo colaborar, estoy a la orden, saludos!

@buildanddrive

2 ай бұрын

Thanks for the information. My fuel consumption is a bit higher than normal now. I suggest also smoke testing the engine to find where the air is leaking from. I made a video and will try this again.

Hello ! I have a problem, i repaired my disa valve and i installed it on my car.I checked the disa valve with the inpa and it is working but when i start the engine the flap it doesn’t close. What to do to fix this ? Thank you!

@buildanddrive

4 ай бұрын

Maybe reset disa adaptations in inpa

@razvan1927

4 ай бұрын

@@buildanddrive do you have any videos of how to reset adaption only for disa? P.S. I found that it is working in reverse, when engine starts the valve is open when I rev the engine the valve is closing … I could installed the valve wrong ?

@razvan1927

4 ай бұрын

@@buildanddrive I founded the problem, I didn't know that the actuator of the disa valve have a single position and if you reverse it will open the valve when it should close. Thank you for your answer!

Only the 3 stage manifold has the disa valves ?

@buildanddrive

4 ай бұрын

2 stage manifold also has 1 disa valve on the outer side

We’re you concerned at all that the pin snapped? It did on mine too and people say that it might end up in the engine

@buildanddrive

4 ай бұрын

Very concerned. I thought it may have damaged a valve or something. Since it was so small and plastic, I assume it went through the engine with no problems. Im glad I caught the problem early.

Hi, do you need to “teach” the new Disa after change, or you just change it and then it’s finish?

@buildanddrive

7 ай бұрын

You just change it. I think It automatically does a check when you start the car. If there is a problem, it throws a code

@jasan-xq2lk

4 ай бұрын

@@buildanddriveI changed my disa valve, and I’m still having the rough idle. Even though that was the issue, the disa was literally broken. What do I do?

@buildanddrive

4 ай бұрын

@@jasan-xq2lk check my channel for a smoke test. Find the air leaks in your intake/engine

@marcinstasiak6821

Ай бұрын

Czy można jeździć z odłączoną dużą disą

From my experience generic Disa valve is a bad idea. It's better to buy a used original part with the updated (latest) part number.

@buildanddrive

11 ай бұрын

Yep, but I didn't want to pay an insane amount of money. Funny thing is, the seals in this Chinese part failed after a year. I had idle issues and had to silicone it 😆

are you German? you speak very good English to be a German

@buildanddrive

11 ай бұрын

Ich bin nicht Deutsche.