Perfect solder station. I build it. I believe there is a mistake on the pcb schematic with the parts, the BC337 is turned around. I like your projects, thank you.

What a nice project well done!!!!

Now I know how to save my money. Thanks!

will definitely try it :))

Hi! Greeting about the nice realization. So everything seems compact and beautiful. The power supply from +5 volts is submitted to Arduino VIN. But there is a stabilizer and therefore after it remains +4.1 volts. This can be measured at Arduino's pin "5V" .

@HMProjects

2 жыл бұрын

Hi and thanks your appreciation! Yes, normally on pin VIN wee feed 6 to 12V in order to get 5V at the pin "5v" but since wee don't use that pin there is no problem. And also there is no problem because the ATmega328 microcontroller operating voltage is between 2.7V and 5.5V, it may affect the clock speed on the microcontroller but I don't know for sure.

very good video sir, thank you! I don't like the small station very much! give me the big one and then even shielded with power supply in an aluminum box because of the weight, the holder for soldering iron can then be fixed to the cabinet. healthy greetings from the Netherlands! Rob

Amazing 👍 well done

@HMProjects

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you !

Не планировали платы в Китае заказывать? Хороший проект, можно в продажу легко запускать

Very helpful Post

Hi .. very good .. can you list the parts used ..?

How many size of the pcb board and how many size of the pcb for the lcd..sir..?

Can you please provide pcb file so I want to modify some dip components to smd components

Thanks for sharing

@HMProjects

2 жыл бұрын

You're welcome !!

hello, good video, can you use Oled Screen 128*64 0.96? Without modifying anything

dây màu xanh kết nối đến đâu vậy anh?màn hình phiên bản v3 lắp vô bo chủ v4 hoạt động được không,tại mỏ t12 có dạng 5 lổ và 4 lổ

Cool!

permission to ask, what control method is used?

What is the dimension of the pcb? In centimeters,because i want to command both of them from jlcpcb

Best choice project for me bro! I've modified it's OPAM to work with C210 JBC soldering tip TC and now almost done, not so accurately but ok for me . Actually, code is very hard for me to modify SLEEP MODE and TURN OFF MODE as JBC soldering station that means when putting handle back to holder, It goes to SLEEP MODE immediately not like T12 using vibration switch in your code. So could you please show me how to modify it? Thank you very much

@phtrrrr

3 ай бұрын

Bác thay opamp nào vậy bác?

Thanks for share.... Nice one.. Can you share the Gerber file.. All files removed from old link

You can maybe do design to buy PCBs from JLCPCB or PCBWay or something?

@HMProjects

2 жыл бұрын

It's not a hard thing to generate the Gerber files, I will update the files folder soon.

Hello, very nice project. is any way for this board to drive hakko907 or 936 soldering pen standard .if not and only for t12 version can you made and share for 936 and 907 soldering pen versions.tanx

@HMProjects

2 жыл бұрын

Hi. The T12 tips have the thermocouple in series with the heating element, you can try to connect the heating element and the thermocouple on the 907 handle, I believe it's possible but I'm no sure how it will respond in temperature changes because it will have a lag on the 907 handle( when the heating element will reach the temperature it will take some time that the actual tip will reach that temperature).

@h_pars

2 жыл бұрын

@@HMProjects yes but 907 and 936 have heater element and ntc or ptc in it and 4 wire two wire for heat element and two wire for ntc or ptc in it to control that soldering pen know do you know any versions to drive it i try to send you a link of one of that solder pens now

@h_pars

2 жыл бұрын

A digital driver for soldering pen like this link: www.google.com/url?sa=i&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.joom.com%2Fen%2Fproducts%2F5d65114a1436d40101b82e0a&psig=AOvVaw34hzj3PdrtjRnGZb_pEIza&ust=1632822735425000&source=images&cd=vfe&ved=2ahUKEwi43KPq8J7zAhVWdqwKHd4YCMYQr4kDegUIARD6Ag

@HMProjects

2 жыл бұрын

@@h_pars I know that handle from Hakko 907 and exactly what I've said, it has 4 wires 2 from the heating element and 2 from the thermocouple and you need to put them in series, but first you have to measure them with a multimeter. The heating element has around 8 Ohms and the thermocouple usually has a lower resistance.

@h_pars

2 жыл бұрын

@@HMProjects tanx

Hi ! I made this great project. Thanks for sharing !!! I have two issues : 1.the exe file was not good (the display does not show correctly), but I used the ino file and the display now works correctly. 2.can I use a PENSOL soldering iron, with a type K thermocouple??? If so, how do I connect the thermocouple and how do I connect the resistance ? I should connect the plus of the thermocouple to the input of the Op-Amp, its minus to the ground, right?!? But where do I connect the heating resistance? Between minus and what pin??? I look forward to an answer to this problem and thank you in advance !

@HMProjects

10 ай бұрын

First, I didn't use the HEX file so I can't tell if it's good or bad, and you can't simply use the IDE to upload the HEX files to microcontroller. Second, the T12 tips have the thermocouple in series with the heater (only 2 connection points, + and -) that means that the power applied to the heater and temperature measurement are made on the same line. On the other hand the Pensol have the thermocouple separate from the heater( 4 connection points, heater and +/- of the thermocouple), you can try to connect in series the thermocouple with the heater or you can try to modify the thermocouple amplifier circuitry by making a separate connection for the thermocouple and the heater connected to P+ and P- as it is, the polarity doesn't matter in this case, only thermocouple have polarity. Hope it helps.

@mk808android2

10 ай бұрын

Thank you so much for this fast reply ! I will try to make separate connection for K termocouple. I will keep you informed. Regards !

@mk808android2

10 ай бұрын

Hi, I did it ! I separated the signal amplification part from the thermocouple (I directly connected the thermocouple to C13/R7 and the ground, respecting the polarity), and I left the control part of the letcon resistance unchanged. It works very well. I'm going to calibrate the tip (I haven't quite understood how to do it yet, but I'm persevering) and put everything in a nice case, in line with this great project. Some information about how the calibration is done, is it possible? Thank you very much, once again, for sharing the project and for the personal support.

@mk808android2

9 ай бұрын

Please, please, can you share with us the procedure of tip calibration ?? I made this great project, but I used an Pensol iron. And it is obvious that the temperature calibration must be done, because I can tin only when the station indicates 500 degrees (through boost). Thank you for this project and I hope you will clarify this aspect as well. All the best !

@mk808android2

9 ай бұрын

I managed, as far as I could, to do a calibration. I have another puzzlement: I checked the code (and it's OK), I checked R12 and R13 (and they're OK) and yet the voltage shown on the display is much lower than the real one. I'm wodering why ???

Super 🙏🙏🙏💐

Привет, красавец, скажите пожалуйста у вас есть данная разработка для паяльного фена? Хочу собрать устройства 2в1

nice

Hello, i built the V3 soldering station but the iron doesn't heat up, i used lm358 and it doesn't work it appears error on the screen. Can you help me please.

@HMProjects

9 ай бұрын

Hi, it can be multiple causes but surely is something wrong on the pcb or with the the components you use. 1. Check if the Q1 is mounted correctly, check it's pin configuration. 2. Check all the components on the thermocouple amplifier, check the op-amp if you mounted correctly or if is good. 3. Check the Q2. 4. Look if soldered all the jumper wires on the pcb ( assuming that you made the pcb that I provided ) 5. And lastly check if you have proper connection from the T12 tip to the station. I hope it helps.

Hi any bill of materials ?

Untuk ukuran pcb brp?

Hi, I have a problem with the temperature reading from the thermocouple. The error is about 50 Degrees. This leads to the fact that the top of the soldering iron is not sufficiently heated and the mosfet cuts off the power of the heater. The display constantly changes in value and does not calm down. Has anyone had this problem and what could be the solution?

@redvalley9807

Жыл бұрын

Is your soldering iron with thermistor or thermocouple ?

Also using hakko 907 in this Circuit

Hello sir i want to ask you can i use 0.96 inch oled display thanks

@HMProjects

Жыл бұрын

Hi, yes of course you can, you have to use the library for that display.

@moobdi3

Жыл бұрын

Thank you soo much i like yor projects can you make for us ( hot air station)based on arduino nano...... thanks

Dear sir how to contact with you

Could it be for lgt8f328 or not? Thank you 🙏

@HMProjects

2 жыл бұрын

I can't say, I never used one of those before. I did quick research and it seems that it is compatible with the Arduino Nano board, I'm not sure but it should comply with arduino IDE. But better you have to try it yourself if you have one.

@agusboys4524

2 жыл бұрын

@@HMProjects I've tried, but it doesn't work, it only appears on the monitor, for rotary it doesn't work. Is there a program that needs to be changed? Thank you.🙏

brother do you have this file link direct to easyeda?

@HMProjects

Жыл бұрын

No, sorry. It is private at this moment, I deleted the top pcb by mistake and now I have to remake it.

What are the tht resistors size power?

@HMProjects

2 жыл бұрын

I used 1/4W resistors.

Does anyone have the parts list?

May I know the pcb size?

@HMProjects

2 жыл бұрын

There are two pcb-s, 4x7 cm.

hi friend i tried to make but it showing in arduino ide fatal error: Adafruit_GrayOLED . h : No such file or directory

@HMProjects

Жыл бұрын

Gray What?.. I never used such library, depending on what OLED display you use it can be Adafruit SSD1306.h or Adafruit SH1106.h this two I used.

@pakistanzindahbad

Жыл бұрын

@@HMProjects yes i have installed these two liburaries but same make a zip liburary folder in your pc and upload on g drive

@muhammadnibrahim3457

Жыл бұрын

@@pakistanzindahbad The case is the same as mine Error code appears Adafruit_sh1106.h : no such file or directory

@pakistanzindahbad

Жыл бұрын

@@muhammadnibrahim3457 yes but i write the hex file using tl866 programmer it is working fine in my case

Hello values? C1 = ?. C2 = ?

Hi... Can you update of part list please... Best Regards

@HMProjects

Жыл бұрын

Hi. take a look on my channel I made a new and better version of this station, there you will find all the filles.

I have enclosure for your project... to make "portable smart solder" base on t12 solder...

@HMProjects

Жыл бұрын

Ok, thanks. Watch my latest video, I made a new version of this soldering station with some improvements on pcb and software and a 3D printed enclosure.

What a genius station : ( Can i use 24v 2.80 Amps Powersupply from laptop ? Have these Station a Auto Sleep mode ? Please i will use a JBC Handle Grip with t12 Tips can i doo these dream be come true ? Please helps Greets from Germany

@HMProjects

2 ай бұрын

Hi, yes you can use that power supply, 2.8A is enough for this soldering station but I would recommend you to supply it at 19V and I would recommend you to build version 4 or 5 of the soldering station (see the videos on my channel), and lastly, as long as you use T12 tips, it doesn't matter which handle it is, but be careful to respect the connections and polarity. Oh, I almost forgot, this station has auto sleep mode, and auto off mode if the station is not used for a longer time. I hope this helps.

@user-bw5hk5nb3k

2 ай бұрын

Yes i will use T12 Tips but can i use the handle grip from JBC to modding it and use with T12 that where amazing ?

Rework station project please

@HMProjects

Жыл бұрын

Maybe in a future project.

Materials???

@HMProjects

Жыл бұрын

I put a link in video description with all the necessary files, in schematic you have all the parts you need, resistors should be 1/4W.

@PHONGNGUYEN-sj9nx

Жыл бұрын

@@HMProjects D3 - 5v zenner? D4 - 18v C1,C2 - ? v/10uf C13 - ? v/0.47uf C7 - 35v/10uf ?

@PHONGNGUYEN-sj9nx

Жыл бұрын

@@HMProjects help me

@HMProjects

Жыл бұрын

@@PHONGNGUYEN-sj9nx Sorry for the late reply. D1/5V zener, D3/18V zener, but if you don't have 18V you can use 16 or 15V zener, I actually used 15V one if I remember correctly, For C1 and C2 I used 35V capacitors, since we use 24V power supply on the input C2 should be 25V or higher and C1 can be lower 10 or 16V but for convenience I used both 35V, it doesn't matter. And C7 and C13 for both I used 35V capacitors, be careful C13 should be between 100nf and 1uf, if you use a higher value you'll have unstable temperature readings. And another thing that I later find out, for R5 instead of 1K resistor is better to use 4.7K or 5K, whit 1K it will draw a little more unnecessary current and it will run quite hot. I hope it helps!

@PHONGNGUYEN-sj9nx

Жыл бұрын

@@HMProjects oke tks bro

analogWrite(CONTROL_PIN, 255); // this shuts off the heater ??? analogWrite(CONTROL_PIN, 0); HOW DIFFERENT

@HMProjects

Жыл бұрын

Hi. Difference is that at 255 PWM is at 100 procent and 0 is 0 procent, if the output pin from the Arduino were connected directly to mosfet gate at 255 mosfet normally will be open and at 0 will be closed but there are additional circuit ( see schematic ), so now at 0 procent mosfet is open and at 255 is close because the npn transistor will short to ground the mosfet gate, if it makes sense. Thanks for watching!

Hot gun diy sir