Recently installed a RecPro and had the same issue. I purchased a 10k thermistor from Trane to relocate it. My plan was to disconnect the factory thermistor (located clipped to the evap coils) and connect the one i purchased, locate it on the wall next to my old Coleman tstat. But…before doing that i, like you, experimented. I unhooked the factory thermistor from its coil cradle, straightened the wire and wrapped a soft cloth around it. There was enough wire after straightening to get it about 8” away from the coil and more into the return air plenum. The RecPro is designed to run the evap fan all the time. After these mods the unit works fine.

@AdventureRocks

22 күн бұрын

Great tips, thank you for sharing.

Thank you very much. Our second trip in our new camper I realized no matter how I set the thermostat it was incorrect with our inside thermometer. Also it was short cycling just crazy. The ac would kick on and in seconds the thermostat dropped 10 degrees yet we was still sweating. I started researching and came across a few threads and this video explaining the obvious issue. You saved me a ton of trouble shooting and wasting time with the dealership warranty. I’d rather spend my time camping. Thanks so much! To make sure I do not do anything to my warranty I ordered the extension kit from castlewinch. I will cut their harness instead of the factory one but still use the two spare wires and connect the other side of the cut harness there. Then if needed 5 minutes and my factory wiring will be original. I will be doing this tomorrow morning before it gets too hot. With the details I expect no snags. Thank you and hopefully Furrion sees this and WTH were they thinking?🤔 😮

@AdventureRocks

Ай бұрын

Thank you. I look forward to variable speed units too. Sounds like Furrion is close to releasing them as aftermarket. That would also help with all the different sized RVs and varying loads...getting the perfect compressor output to slowly draw down humidity.

Thank you for doing this. I used your idea to tape the inside of the shroud on the supply cold air dump permanently. I sealed the intake plenum as best as I could with foil tape and put the room temperature sensor out the bottom through the filter (leaving it up inside didn't work). Now it works perfectly. No short cycling and the temperature reads accurately. Very interesting video. I appreciate your help!

@AdventureRocks

26 күн бұрын

@@MeyerKen thank you! Glad to hear it.

As to the why they designed it like that, I am pretty sure it was to accommodate dual zone systems with one central thermostat. I can see multiple ways to improve this design, in addition to your suggestions in the video, i would add- an add-on RF thermostat kit where you could locate the sensor anywhere inside your RV without cutting/splicing and running wires, add a plug to the room sensor so in the event that it needs to be relocated for an application, the end user doesn't need to cut and splice wires this would also add a place to plug in the add-on RF module. I believe that you would only really void the warranty on the relay box. I Imagine that you could replace the box prior to making a warranty claim to return the unit back to virgin stock. That's in the case of a issue with the upper unit- your going to have to cover any failures with the relay box out of pocket.

@AdventureRocks

9 күн бұрын

Great point! I didn't think about the multi-zone scenario.

Great job. Very detailed showing how to do this modification and the graphs showing before and after results are great. Awesome job Speaking! Thank You for taking the time.

@AdventureRocks

21 күн бұрын

Thank you!

Pretty sure the humidity issue in a house is due to the house having a fresh air intake. If you run the fan all the time, it's constantly drawing in humid outside air. Even when your AC isn't running. I believe your camper doesn't have a fresh air intake. Therefore humidity didn't signactually rise with the fan on continuous, The short cycling really limits how cold your unit gets and hinders the moisture removal. Good job on the rest of the video though.

@AdventureRocks

16 күн бұрын

Great question. There was a more detailed response from HVAC contractor in the comments below, so see his explanation. A lot has to do with climate/zone. Basically the fan running continuously increases humidity due to re-evaporation of moisture on the coils when compressor shuts off and warm air keeps moving over the coils. The data in chart shows humidity spiking after the compressor turns off as that condensate no longer drains outside, but rather just gets re-dispersed like a humidifier. That sudden spike in humidity is the key indicator. But, you raise a good point that short cycling further inhibits the humidity removal. Some newer/tighter homes have ERVs where fresh air is brought in, but not as many where I live at least. Our climate is so humid that if you have an ERV, you have to pass it through a dehumidifier first as it would rec havoc on the interior climate.

Thank you for sharing your experiment. I own a residential & light commercial HVAC company. I also own an rv similar to yours with the same issue. The manufacturer had to design and size the a/c units to operate in a wide range of environments. They are all almost certainly oversized for most design conditions. In addition, running on fan only once the compressor shuts off causes the fan to blow across a wet evaporator coil and reintroduces the moisture back into the rv causing the humidity to rise again. You couple that with a short cycle on the compressor and the results are high humidity and inconsistent temperature control. Furrion needs to utilize the existing temp sensor for the furnace and they need to install variable speed compressors and variable speed blowers.

@AdventureRocks

Ай бұрын

Great points. I'm with you 100%. I believe Furrion is close to releasing a variable speed/inverter style unit for general public/aftermarket, which will be interesting to see how they did the temp sensor on that one.

Adventure Rocks, what a great detailed video. I sent you an email and pictures with some questions about moving the AC sensor in my TT. Thanks in advance.

@AdventureRocks

Ай бұрын

Thank you, appreciate the feedback!

Great Video, I did the relocation kit and had the same results you are describing. And with the extra resistance I noticed the thermostat skips degrees and will only detect odd numbers, so if I set it to 72 it won’t shut off till it hits 71. Not a big deal as the camper is definitely more comfortable now. Only issue I had recently was the unit freezing up because it was running so much cause it’s so hot. The auto low fan seems to be not helping it get rid of moisture on the coil fast enough.

@AdventureRocks

26 күн бұрын

Thank you! And sorry to hear about the unit freezing up. I haven't had that issue yet, but some others have mentioned the same so I'll have to keep an eye out. You probably already checked the freeze sensor in fins up in plenum, but a few other users commented that their freeze sensor had fallen out of the fins or the manufacturer didn't put it in the right spot to begin with.

@LDub_FlyingFish

26 күн бұрын

@@AdventureRocks yes it’s only when it’s hot hot, and the freeze sensor does work shuts it off and then will restart, but it seems on low fan speed it builds quicker. If it does happen I just run the fan till it melts and it’ll run. Also my location I moved the temp sensor to is more accurate to actual room temp, but close to the kitchenette so it’s susceptible to temp fluctuations during cooking and I just have to keep that in mind. Just moments of inconvenience compared to when it was cycling all the time and I’d have to drive it down to 65 to get 73 in the camper.

A very helpful video. I am literally at that point of having to relocate my room sensor, or I hear there is an aftermarket one with a 10' line but you have to run it from the A/C to the thermostat. I have your situation where we have moved from an EcoThermDometic to a Furrion A/C and have two extra wires that could be used but involves snipping the sensor. Very informative. (Sidebar: Furrion also claims that installing a SoftStart will void your warranty as well.)

@AdventureRocks

Ай бұрын

@@starhopper457 interesting, thanks for sharing. So far the mod has been completely worth it, running like a champ now!

@starhopper457

Ай бұрын

@@AdventureRocks Followup, Sir, if I may... do you have a link or name of the device used to measure Temp and Humidity? LOL, you need a section on your AZ page for your favorite tools that you use in your vids!

@AdventureRocks

Ай бұрын

@@starhopper457 no problem! Yes here is the temp and humidity sensor: amzn.to/3XTmJma I use them in fridges, underbelly, etc... Really anywhere. They seem pretty accurate and the Bluetooth and WiFi connectivity is versatile.

Excellent video. Thank you for the detail!

@AdventureRocks

Ай бұрын

Thank you

Great Video I have 2021 Grand Design 2800BH with two Furrion AC and was have the same problem with the on and off about every 2 min. Call Furrion and they were not much help. Then i call Grand Design and they shipped out two wall sensor thermostat and ac control module for free. Seem to work a lot better on the wall. Will have try the Auto fan mode. Thanks for the video

@AdventureRocks

Ай бұрын

Thank you. Great feedback. I heard GD was shipping out relocation parts under warranty, but when I spoke with them in last month I gather they may have changed more recently? In speaking with the CS rep it sounded like too many good-intentioned owners got the relocation parts from GD direct and it didn't solve the problem as there was another problem with their AC, thus I gather they will now send relocation parts out if a tech diagnoses the sensor as the issue. Who knows though...maybe it's on a case by case basis.

Interesting for sure. However if I replace again it will be with one wired for a wall thermo and one that shuts of if a cooling cycle is complete. I drank the coolaid and purchased a Houghton from Rec Pro. Not happy. They claim it is super quiet. Compared to jack hammer. The worst part is that it runs all the time. We also have a Dometic and it is a bit louder but it shuts off when not needed. Fortunately we use the Hiughton only then it gets in the high 80’s to supplement. No more latest and greatest for me. Coleman or Dometic only.

@AdventureRocks

2 ай бұрын

I hear you. Great points.

Good video and timely as we just picked up a new travel trailer with 2 Furrion Chill ACs. Im hoping that Jayco’s BMPro system controls the ACs with their separate wall mount temp sensors.

@AdventureRocks

2 ай бұрын

Thank you. I believe that is the case with BMPRO temp sensor and node overriding in your case. You'll have to report back once you can confirm.

I have 2 Furrions on my 5th wheel - I simply poked the temp sensor down through the mesh air filter so it's in the room and not up in the unit. That made a big difference for me.

@AdventureRocks

Ай бұрын

Great tip. Thank you for sharing.

@samcunningham6009

Ай бұрын

Well I did the same thing with no improvement.

@AdventureRocks

Ай бұрын

​@@samcunningham6009if everything else is working properly on yours as far as the temperature of supply air being 20+ degrees different, I'd recommend trying the full relocation of temp sensor next.

@RoyGwinn

Ай бұрын

I was about to ask the same thing. Just kind of wondering how far the temp sensor needs to be move out of the unit to improve this situation. I am sure a good many rv's do not have the wires already run to the thermostat. I can see that being a pretty big job to run the wires over to the thermostat without leaving marks, or even worse, on the walls and ceiling

I wonder if the thermostat gave you higher readings because it is mounted on an exterior wall which would be slightly warmer than say an interior wall... Just a thought. Thank you for sharing your experience with us, great video.

@AdventureRocks

Ай бұрын

Thank you. Great point. I could definitely see the exterior wall generating heat especially if sun was hitting it on the outside too. It turned out that the thermostat itself was generating a little bit of heat compared to the surrounding wall and then I guess with me extending the wire the resistance changed slightly causing it to read about 3 or so degrees higher in the end...I don't mind it though as that means setting it to 72 makes it more like 69ish. It has been working like a champ since though...much more dry on the humidity side by having compressor run longer and then no fan when it's off.

Great video - i have purchased this unit. I noticed a "dry" setting on the thermostat. Do you have this setting and have you implemented this setting in your data.? I am not sure exactly what this setting does.

@AdventureRocks

19 күн бұрын

Yes, the "dry" setting is kinda misleading in my opinion. It seems to more run the compressor based off a set amount of runtime as opposed to the set temperature, but it cools constantly while the compressor is running so the actual temperature keeps dropping. For example, I started out at 75 degrees...then it ran till about 71 degrees...came back on and ran till about 67 degrees...and kept getting cooler down to about 64 or so. Kinda odd setting in my opinion, but basically I think it is designed to run the compressor longer in hopes of pulling more humdity out of the air...which it indeed does, but there's no way to slow down the compressor or fan given it isn't variable speed so it has an extreme cooling effect.

When relocating the room sensor to the wall thermostat did you disconnect the existing sensor in the plenum and use that to go in the thermostat?

@AdventureRocks

Ай бұрын

Yes, indeed. I just spliced into existing sensor and used existing surplus thermostat wires to extend. There's a third party that also makes a kit complete with sensor and wire, but then you have to run your wire through a chase to the wall. I did change the resistance in the wire by extending it, which has caused thermostat to read about 2-3 degrees warmer than reality.

@DavidHage-yw4le

Ай бұрын

@@AdventureRocksExtremely helpful thank you. I did buy two of the relocation kits you mention from Castle Winch LLC which are plug and play compatible with the Furrion Chill units. However I am not technically inclined to even attempt that job myself. I live in Orlando and will need to find someone to undertake that task. Any suggestions please let me know. And thank you again. GREAT video!

@AdventureRocks

Ай бұрын

@@DavidHage-yw4le I hear you. If by chance you have surplus wires running between your AC and existing wall thermostat, it'll make the job a lot easier, but I think any RV tech can do it for you, especially if you show them the video in advance. For all I know many of the RV techs may already know about this issue and have completed it for others. My AC though is running like a champ after performing the modification even after testing it and more extreme temperatures.

Have 2 Furrions in my Brinkley z3100 and I have been wanting to do the sensor relocation modification. Thanks for posting this video! I was going to purchase a third party sensor relocation kit but now want to check to see if I have extra wiring. So to confirm.. You cut the sensor from the existing wiring, clamped the ends of that wiring and then spliced it into the same colored wiring behind the thermostat right?

@AdventureRocks

2 ай бұрын

Thank you. Yes, you're exactly right. It's been running like a champ since relocating.

Our furrion AC started tripping the circuit breaker and it will turn on then off. Do you think this is the issue with the humidity?

@AdventureRocks

Ай бұрын

Usually if a breaker is tripping repeatedly it indicates overdrawn amperage, meaning the AC is pulling too much current. Typically an AC is on its own breaker, usually 20A or higher. There could be an issue in the 120V power feeding AC, or some component in AC is failing causing it to pull more amps than expected. Hard to say...a lot of factors, and more diagnosis needed by a tech perhaps, but I don't think my solution in this video will solve your problem unfortunately. I'm sorry about that and hope you all can figure it out.