I didn't realize how much I missed your videos until the uploads paused. Welcome back good sir.

That honest review was really a good one. No signs of hiding something or showing just the good sides. Keep that good work up👍

The most honest 3d printer review on youtube! Keep up the good work! Greetings from Brazil

Hey! thank you for this review, just ordered mine yesterday as an upgrade for a 3 year old ender 3 pro. I think I really needed a change and this looked like a good fit for my needs. You gave me some hope and excitement for when I eventually get it some time soon!

I'm printing a lot of CF-PLA on mine, and it's working flawlessly, an ancient roll of Proto-pasta, the original formulation, brittle as hell. Taking the reverse Bowden out of the cable chain is essential, added hinged risers for the lid to give it plenty of clearance.

Oh finally a new video from my favorite 3D printing influencer.

I was just thinking I hadn't seen anything new from you in a while. Welcome back!

@NathanBuildsRobots

6 ай бұрын

Thank you!

I think I speak for everyone when I say. Thank god your safe... a few of us thought Bambu got to you after the last video😅

@NathanBuildsRobots

6 ай бұрын

Actually, they did get me. I have been re-educated. This is Nathan's pro-bambu replacement clone.

@synonymdonut

6 ай бұрын

Fr

@Horsenb

6 ай бұрын

They would probably feed me to a Panda if the had to re educate me .

@Ace-dh5lz

6 ай бұрын

​@@NathanBuildsRobots Bambu Builds Robots lol

@platinumlawnservice

6 ай бұрын

Still waiting for multicolor. Any updates?

That editing at around 13:10 got me, love it!

I remember buying X2 after watching your thorough review and it has served me well, lets see if I can resist getting this one.

C stands for Customer feedback revision! As Creality loves to substitute user testing and feedback part of the product design cycle with a new revision after a few months.

Glad you're back chill homie 😊

Ruthless like always. Keep up the good work👌.

A new hinge!!

@alfredanil

6 ай бұрын

Uncle Jessy proof hinge 🤣🤣🤣

@boggisthecat

6 ай бұрын

Did you get your consultancy fee?

Finally your back, yes! We can use you way better at creality k1 line critics. Actuall change is posible!

Easiest way to induce heat creep is not letting the fan cool off the hotend completely after a print. New filament isn’t coming in so old filament is cooking while the heater temps are transferring directly up into the heat sink due to the fan not being on to dissipate the heat. Do this enough times and your eventually if not immediately get a clog. I point out something so obvious because you do that at least once in this video ( 21:35 ). I was even thinking “he’s gonna clog that nozzle not letting the hot end cool off”.

@boggisthecat

6 ай бұрын

Yes, that is an issue. If you power down before it has cooled then you’ll have a nice surprise to take up some time and possibly spare parts when you switch it back on. When you have a super-reliable machine that never requires power-cycling to escape weird intractable errors then this wouldn’t be as annoying. My AMS unit is cursed, though, so no such luck. 😾 (Did manage 19 hours of a 20 hour print yesterday / this morning, though. So I guess that 95% reliability now. Winding the filament in, stops at print-head, thinks a bit, winds back out, repeats about five times, then claims there is a blockage. Pull filament entirely, pull power from AMS then reapply, load filament, and it now works. I had about eight of these over 60 layers, so a nice semi-random problem.)

@420247paul

6 ай бұрын

no buddy i see what you are saying but that is not heat creep.

Thank you for so detailed and helpful review!

They should release a stripped down version called the S1P and then make a better version of that and call it the S1S

For clogged nozzles I use a cheap rework station instead of a torch to avoid degrading the nozzle/heat-break. When used with the metal NoClogger (available on amazon) there's essentially no clog you cant remedy. Hope that helps in the future, & great vid!

@toastermon2272

4 ай бұрын

I had a similarly bad clog on my K1C 1 week into owning it, spare nozzles are also not available (probably for months), so I just turned off all the fans, turned the hotend all the way up and after waiting a couple of minutes to heatsoak the entire nozzle assembly I could just push the clog out the top with an old guitar string. The whole extruder and nozzle construction is solid and pretty easily serviceable if you know what you're doing.

I have a k1 and I do like it. I fixed most of the small issues and also have it rooted and running stock klipper and fluidd now. I was excited for the new hot end but now am on the fence. I would say the best way to print carbon fiber nylon , petg etc is to use a 0.6mm nozzle. I had issues with heat creep and the nozzle getting plugged up when printing cf material. The only one I had no issues with was cf PLA when using a 0.4mm nozzle.

@NathanBuildsRobots

6 ай бұрын

That's probably why they sent me a spool of CF-PLA. I'm going off script with possibly predictable results?

You open browser tabs (23:12) makes me feel so happy.

Probably already being said but remove the bowden tube out of the chain and you can even print carbon nylon out of the regular K1 series (with a nozzle change) i made a vid about it using the bondtech nozzles. Alround a well needed update, thanks for sharing!

Hey there he is, Congratz on the K1C

Nathan, you look more like a scientist than an engineer.

Maybe a dumb question, but can the regular K1 or K1 Max not print Carbon? Do you need a different extruder and/or nozzle? If so, can you still print everything else?

Thanks for the video. BTW are you planning to review when the FLSUN S1 and T1 comes out?

Creality K1C vs Flashforge Adventurer 5M Pro with one to buy? Base on your reviews?

Damn, the title alone is brutal. Can't wait to watch it.

Do they no longer provide a needle that you can push up through the nozzle to clear it? The rod that you used it designed to push filament into the nozzle form the top like you used it, but it’s not for clearing clogs.

Hello. I bought a Creality K1 hotend to upgrade my V3 SE, and I have a heatbreak from Polisi3d that is supposed to be better than the stock heatbreak in the K1. The only problem is the heatbreak is really hard to get out of the K1 ceramic hotend. Do you know how to remove the heatbreak from the hotend on the K1?

OMG he is back!!

I dont understand why they put that notch in the bottom of the door glass... Why not mount the screen at the top or at the very bottom below the door?

I think what causes your "VFA" is slicing from a STL (point cloud model) where arcs are basically polylines, and I think the print head is doing accel/decel at each line segment when cornering and therefore extruding more near the intersection. I would try feeding a Gcode file that uses geometeric arc interpolation (G02, G03) and see if the problem goes away.

Shouldn't it come with a 0.6mm nozzle? If it's intended for use with CF infused filaments? I have seen quite a few videos / info stating that you should use a 0.6mm or larger nozzle especially with high % of Cf.

Just curious, I really don’t like proprietary parts at all but the newer printers all have a little bit of that in them. Do you know if it’s possible to put the old hot end/nozzle assembly in the newer version? Does the original version/microswiss mod (if/when it’s compatible with k1c) allow it to use a more standard nozzle?

@georgemouer4565

6 ай бұрын

Replacement nozzles are not available anywhere yet ! I asked in the creality store chat and they have no idea when/if they will be available. This is a major problem !!

Hey Nathan! Thanks for the upload. Question. Did Creality make any revisions for the extruder for the K1C?

@NathanBuildsRobots

6 ай бұрын

I don't think so, but I didn't take it apart to check

Sound can't escape through very small gaps due to "wave guide beyond cutoff". That is if the opening is much smaller than the wavelength of the sound, the sound won't propagate through the opening. So high frequency noise might escape, but low frequency noise won't.

@NathanBuildsRobots

6 ай бұрын

That is cool! I didn't know that. I guess what I'm noticing is the higher frequency hissing noises and possibly stepper motor ringing leaking out through the smaller gaps. A lot of mechanical noises is they are a broad spectrum noises, so it's a combination of lower and higher frequencies.

@KennethScharf

6 ай бұрын

@@NathanBuildsRobots The term "wave guide beyond cutoff" actually refers to microwave electromagnetic waves, it's the reason why the microwaves can't go though the door of your microwave oven, thanks to the metal mesh in the glass. The same principle also applies to sound. Anyone building a ported speaker cabinet will run into this when sizing the port opening.

the new batch of K1's come with rubber feet WOW! externally now look like twins

The filament tube needs to come out of the cable chain to relieve that sharp angle. great video thanks,

@boggisthecat

6 ай бұрын

I did exactly that with my Bambu Lab P1S. I used kapton tape to build up the Bowden tube for a good fit to the guide-ring section at the top of the head. Tried a couple of printed ‘guides’ for the Bowden, but they weren’t that successful.

They changed the pulley size? It being Creality, that then makes me wonder whether they also corrected the position of the motor to ensure the belt path was still orthogonal to the moving X gantry? And that makes me realize that I have so far not seen anyone check whether the K1, K1 max and K1C have correct orthogonal belt paths (for the parts where it matters). Maybe a gap you could fill?

It's too bad you had issues with the nozzle. I was hoping you'd cover printing ASA or ABS with it. I've been printing a lot of ASA in my K1. I wrap it in blankets and use the bed to bring the internal temperature up to 50°C, then as it's printing it slowly creeps up to 60°C and I get beautiful ASA prints. However, the heat brake fan will fail at those temps.

@Liberty4Ever

6 ай бұрын

Good to know that the K1 heat break fan can't take the heat of a pseudo heated chamber. I drape a clear 30 gallon trash bag over my Neptune 4 Pro and the 110 C bed gets the "chamber" temperature up to 55 C and ABS prints very well, but the little model light LED built into the hot end dimmed so much after 100 hours of printing ABS that it's now useless, but so far everything else has withstood the improvised heated build chamber on this open frame bed slinger.

I see ur having fun wit the table😂

Nathan have you seen Vector 3D Teardown of the K1C. His looked very used and also he did not have an all metal gear set as Crealty describe. Your fan on yours also looked rather dirty as well. Have you checked your extruder gearset ? I have a review sample and I’m going to check mine the weekend. What’s rather odd is that some of these seem very used before being sent for reviews.

@NathanBuildsRobots

6 ай бұрын

They are probably engineering or manufacturing test units. They would have run hundreds of hours on them before sending any machines out.

Nathan! Thank you for bringing all these awesome videos to us! I have a question if you could help me out, With all these new printers coming out, i remember your amazing review on the Ender 5 S1 and want to ask at its current reduced price(even cheaper refurbished!!) do you think the Ender 5 S1 is still viable? Being easily fixed and modded?

@NathanBuildsRobots

6 ай бұрын

I'd rather get an Ender 3 V3 SE or KE. There's not much point in having a cube printer if it doesn't come with an enclosure, at least thats what I think.

@mg_customs8531

6 ай бұрын

@@NathanBuildsRobots very true! Think its worth waiting for the Ender 3 V3? What would your price guess be for it?

If you have a look at the settings on the homepage of the touchscreen you have the option to adjust the fans either on and off or percentages of that,, I recently bought a k1 and it's very similar to the k1c

Got mine in today. already 6 prints on it. All were great hyper pla prints. Only complaint is they lip needs to be higher (already found a riser to print) and I agree on the bowden tube. Overall very happy with it for only $549 us

You can reduce the speed of the fans in the slicer, I have my side blower fan at 40% max so it never sounds like a jet engine.

How did the filament break in the bowden tube, but was still in the tube? wouldn't the extruder continue pulling the filament from the break? I think you got a clog and the filament broke from the constant flexing as the motion system continued on.

@NathanBuildsRobots

6 ай бұрын

I think you're right. The filament had a dent in it from the filament grinding away at it. Not sure if it was a nozzle clog or heat creep that caused it, but either way, not good. I suppose there is a possibility that it was bad filament that caused it as well.

@omahena

6 ай бұрын

Exactly what I was wondering. What I learned on my K1 Max is that the extruder gears get so hot that they will soften if not melt PLA filament. After a rushed change from an enclosed ASA print to Creality Hyper PLA the PLA filament melted inside the extruder. Once that happens, you can't make the extruder push out filament and the filament acts like a pin, preventing you from disassembling the extruder to clear the jam. Sucks.

If this has been said already my apologies. Your x axis seems to be moving around much more freely on the rods than the k1 max does has there been changes within the tool head also bearings springs or such? Thanks

@NathanBuildsRobots

6 ай бұрын

Could be the smaller motors requiring less torque to back drive. But none of my k1 printers are particularly hard to move. Maybe try cleaning them?

@dobyrne8565

6 ай бұрын

@@NathanBuildsRobots yeah I’ve done that even cleaned the grease Creality tells you to put on them off of them, and used a light 3n1 oil but no difference. Could be those larger wheels. Thanks for the response Nathan really enjoy your videos

Funny that the first selling point in their ad is "CLOG FREE All-metal Extruder Kit".....

@NathanBuildsRobots

6 ай бұрын

In my best Project Farm voice: We're gonna test that!

When clearing out the clog, why not heat up the metal rod to glowing red and then placing it down the heatbreak/nozzle instead of heating up the whole hotend?

@NathanBuildsRobots

6 ай бұрын

That's a good idea

So it definitely needs a better filament sensor that not only checks for the presence of filament but also whether it is still moving.

Hi Nathan, hope your well and the fight with this printer was not too a pain? I just awhile ago on 31st December 2023, Got my 1st ever enclosed fast klipper 3D Printer the Qidi X-Plus-3. It been a great printer. But I had a big problem just last week where I left the printer doing a overnight print for the 1st time and woke up the next day to find that the model had un-stuck from the bed and was melted in the ball of death around the printing fast at 400 per second head. the ball was fully wrapped around the lower part of the hot end. I stopped the printing, and had to spend about 30 minutes slowly hot gun heating the ball of now set melted white PLA and carefully poking it off. I got it off and it had split the silicone sock and that had got partly stuck in the middle of that ball. The thing is, I had the bed auto leveled fine and done a great z off set as the model before printed with zero problems so the leveling and off set must have been okay? I got to now remove the hot end ceramic heater block and cooling fins and clean the rest of the melted PLA off them. Qidi do have a 2nd hot end in the box of a Hardened nozzle hot end So I fit that for now! Qidi are a great company for helping us so they said they will send me another normal copper hot end heater block unit. Just a pain as the bed was clean and had fresh glue layer so odd indeed it failed. Anyway I love the speed and detailed printing my X-Plus -3 does just thought you like to wear about my issues?

@NathanBuildsRobots

6 ай бұрын

Someone needs to add a sensor or switch that can detect that kind of error. Computer vision might be able to do it, but a dedicated Senator should be great because it would ideally be more reliable

You can set the preview images in Orca. You can choose between several file Formats and sizes. One will fit the X1C. Try .PNG and 256x256

@NathanBuildsRobots "K1 Bed Leveling Kit" on printables managed to get me bed down to 0.52mm variance. And it's a really quick print.

Its really hard to load filament because it goes through such a sharp turn just before the hotend. You have to push filament hard into the tube at the back while it tries to grab it.

the amount of aliexpress tabs that are open 💀 Overall amazing review! I was thinking of buying myself a K1C, most other reviewers were bashing the printer for not being a Bambu or Prusa yet seemed to not be able to mention why. And all reviewers seem to think we have money to spare... I am slightly worried about network security with this new printer, its web interface is cool but insecure... and with political prejudice I am slightly worried for network security because Creality is situated in China, who don't have the cleanest track record when it comes to spying... I will put this printer on a separate network and hope for the best...

I just got this one in and How do I remove the styrofoam from behin and below the build plate?

@JasonAkers0

4 ай бұрын

Nevermind, figured it out.

Thanks for your elaborate video. 34:00 maybe next time you could insert the nozzle in a separate heat block outside of the printer and hook it up a bench power supply, then you should easily be able to push the residual stuff through with that tool.

Good info NBR. I thought when they said K1C it was a joke.

I like the cable chain improvement, but the rest of the stuff it seems my regular K1 is just as good if not better. My 3d printed hepa/activated carbon filter seems way better, my Triangle Labs "diamond like" nozzle seems way better -- and I can put a 0.6 on it if I want to print CF materials. You can just buy and trivially install the same "AI Cam" on the K1.

@NathanBuildsRobots

6 ай бұрын

How much AI does it have though? :D

Why not try the cleaned out nozzle/break? It would have been useful to know if clearing a glog like that would actually work.

Nice review, When can we expect the V3 SE Modder Board to be available for sale? It's very cool could think of a few possibilities.

Hey Nathan I just saw couple teardown videos where the creator is very upset about the fact that the extruder (gears) are not "all-metal" as it's claimed everywhere on the advertisement materials (all-metal extruder), what do you think about it? Could it be called all-metal when only the wheels that drive the filament are metal or it's something shady? I'd love to hear your take on it if it's something worth to talk about

@NathanBuildsRobots

6 ай бұрын

Plastic gears are fine. You only need metal gears if you're going over 80C chamber temp. Are you going over 80C chamber temp?

Your jokes are so dry, they are actually funny. Keep up the good work.

Remove the bowden tube from the last buckle on the cable chain. Then the bend is correct. My original bowden tube actually got worn out after 100 h and snapped.

Hello Nathan, does the printer have a heated chamber?

@Liberty4Ever

6 ай бұрын

The K1 has a passively heated chamber. The heated bed slowly heats the enclosed chamber. It's obviously not as good as an actively heated chamber but it works fairly well for ABS, ASA, etc.

exclude is cool. its on my bambu as well :) them be alot of tabs open there buddy ;) also u should print some jaw grips for ur vice. metal on metal leaves marks.

I heard you were out at Luke's and took some footage - when will we be seeing that? I'm headed up there next month to pick up a Stablebot!

@NathanBuildsRobots

6 ай бұрын

Nice, I'll be editing that video next, should be less than a week from now!

Hi Which would you update to, from an ENDER 3 S1 PRO the K1C OR the CR10 SE, hanks

@einsteind

5 ай бұрын

With robustness in mind, thanks

meh, Rigor doesn't seem to be applied to testing Creality's 'improvements"? i get a similar feel about the A1 bed cord. It's a question i think many of us have about the longevity of proprietary stuff. Removing the bowden tube from the chain, and probably having a taller lid to accommodate a more gentle slope and remove the kink (not kink shaming). It's an easy mod to print an extender to set the lid on or newer iterations of the K1 can come with a taller lid. Thing is, it's such an easy fix that should have been already done, they knew the problem existed and it feels like they did a slap dash fix and didn't test it, which doesn't evoke confidence.

I took my ptfe tube out of the closes holder on the cable chain to the print head in order to give it a easy bend into the extruder

@NathanBuildsRobots

6 ай бұрын

yeah I would definitely do that for this printer, especially when printing stiff filaments

@davidlapes2751

6 ай бұрын

Could also print a former to limit the radius of the curve into the extruder

Would you suggest the k1c or the flashforge 5m pro? They are the same price for me.

@NathanBuildsRobots

4 ай бұрын

I like the 5M pro more. Less issues. There are some mods for the k1 out there if you’re into that but that drives the price up

@Antoan108

4 ай бұрын

​@@NathanBuildsRobots mods for the k1c? Not k1. What kind of mods are you talking about?

@Antoan108

4 ай бұрын

@NathanBuildsRobots do you mean mods for the k1 or k1c? As I'm asking about the k1c and flashforge 5m pro, not the base k1.

So, out of the box it will print without cloud or wifi connection?

@NathanBuildsRobots

6 ай бұрын

Yes. Network setup is optional and you can just feed it flash drives and SD cards through the usb port (for SD cards you need an SD card reader though)

Love the Erev Shel Shoshanim background music...

im confused your worried about the dorr open gaps etc but the top is totally open.

Creality's US store does not have replacement nozzles for the K1C ! I asked in the store chat when/if they would be available and they had no idea !! This is a major problem!

@NathanBuildsRobots

6 ай бұрын

IF you make a new standard nozzle you need a plan for rolling it out. hopefully they will have them in stock soon!

So is it running Fluidd out of the box?

Actually seeing the Unicorn Nozzle I thought the "C" in K1C stands for "Colour". For Prusas mk3(s(+))+MMU2 were a lot of complains how hard/unreliable tuning of unload/ramping of filament was. This was greatly improved if people changed to the Revo hotend. The integrated heatbreak/nozzle combo leaves much better filament tips on unload. So you might can do filament changes with an ERCF without cut&poo. If you take a look at the new K2, there might be a chance it can do multicolour without cut&poo. Faster and less waste. The k1c nozzle cost about $4 to $5 on Aliexpress. So you can call it an consumable. If it realy helps automatic filamentchangers to reduce time and waste, the downside of not being able to clean it if it cloggs might be worth the compromise.

I'm using Creality Ender PLA filament @ 300mm /sec and as fast as 500mm/sec tops and still prints good, In everyday printing you can't have both fast and good prints.

Hasnt even started printing and already repairing the door handle :D

The repeated shots of the print head going weeeeeep 😂.

Great video man! Earned a sub! I may just pick up the K1 since it doesn't have the proprietary nozzle design. It's that or an A1 Mini/standard A1.

@NathanBuildsRobots

6 ай бұрын

You can't get an A1 right now because they are dealing with a cable strain issue that is a potential fire hazard.

@cagerage21

6 ай бұрын

I saw that. Your video was how I learned about that also lol! Am I safe to just snag a K1? I have some bestbuy credit to use so it won't be $599. ​@NathanBuildsRobots

@djklermundable

4 ай бұрын

@@cagerage21 My K1C from Microcenter was only $539. Got it this week

What I‘d like to see for all these Bambu Lab, Qidi, Creality CoreXY-printers, are 3rd party hotend assemblies that allow flexible nozzle changes using standard nozzles without requiring to screw or deal with cables. Just a smple mechanism that makes nozzle changes as fast as Formula 1 tire changes. This may be even provided by hobbyists with knowledge in mechanics and electrical engineering.

@boggisthecat

6 ай бұрын

I am waiting on the BIQU Panda hot-end. It’s the E3D Revo hotend system adapted for the Bambu Lab machines. It’s certainly possible that there will be something made for the K1 series. I have the Revo system on a (only slightly modified, only one careful owner, honest…) Ender 3. It is very good, with only having to mess with the z-offset a bit on nozzle-change. Using the nozzle to probe should make this an effortless option for the Bambu Lab machines.

Long time lurker, first time poster. Nathan, thank you for what you do, and for the humor and thoroughness your reviews bring to the 3D printing community. I feel as though we are in the Apple VS PC mentality with 3D printers now. Bambu Labs is clearly the “Apple” of 3D printers, elegant looking, largely work well, but locked down, and not very customizable. The other brands, such as Creality seem to fall under the “PC” moniker of work well enough, lots of customization options, and huge community support. It’s a good time to be a 3D printer enthusiast!

@NathanBuildsRobots

6 ай бұрын

The Creality K1 is like the Microsoft Surface Laptop of 3D printers. Not quite the same as apple. But not quite a PC either. The Ender 3 is the true PC analogy, and it's still my favorite printer for superb customizability.

Orca slicer does have a print preview icon

watching this over and over till mine gets here 🤣😂😅🍻🍻

Will the VFA go away if you use a step file?

@NathanBuildsRobots

6 ай бұрын

Good question, I don't know for certain but I've noticed the issue on objects of specific radiuses, and it's not on every model, sometimes its better or worse. I think the rasterization could be causing it, but I think it has to do with the belt or stepper motor resonance.

For me ... I couldn't care less about carbon fibre, but I love the updates for other filaments!

@meikgeik

5 ай бұрын

Agree. It's useless unless you get into the CF nylon like he said. I'm amazed at how many people just parrot the claims of filament manufacturers when it comes to CF infused filament.

@djklermundable

4 ай бұрын

@@meikgeik Dude, there is no magical relationship between PA (Nylon) and carbon fiber. If it makes PA filament stronger in ways, than it also does the same for PLA or others.

In the last video, I commented something along the lines of “if you disappear we know what happened”. Now you’re back, how was your “hiatus”? Any new thoughts regarding pandas?

@NathanBuildsRobots

6 ай бұрын

Yes, I have formulated an excellent counterpoint to their philosophy. It goes: “REEEEEEEEEEEEE”

It runs klipper right? Can just limit the fan in the config.

@ScottLahteine

6 ай бұрын

Ah, right. I was assuming it runs Karlin.

Anybody know if Creality is working on some sort of multi-material add-on ?

@polar_baer

6 ай бұрын

Wouldn’t work with any of their K1 models anyway, they don’t have multiple extruder heads

@thingswelike

6 ай бұрын

They've said that they are. Last I heard was within first half of this year.

What I learned in sound pollution class is that human perception of sound is logarithmic, thats why every 10 point decibels increase multiplies the sound level by 10 times. Lets suppose the hole in the K1 door is 1/25 the doors size, you will have a 96% energy reduction in the sound waves, but in decibels it will be like 12 decibels less. Closing that little hole correctely may get to 99%, but it will be only another decibel.

Does it have plastic gears?

The camera looks very crisp

People who bought previous version are like beta testers who paid full price? or they received upgrades or replaced to upgraded printer version for free?

2 questions: what carbon fiber filament did you use? And did you fallow the instructions? The clogged nozzle was a big red flag for this review.

I returned a K-1 because the same exact thing happened on mine, I tried to use that tool to unclog it, but it was done. How does a printer with less than 10 hours of usage on it have a nozzle clog it’s unacceptable. I love the fact that you can root these printers, but they need to make a more simple approach on their designs. Mind you I was only using PLA plus.

43:04 looks like you have the clogging where the heat sink isnt perforated all the way through for optimal cooling.

Sorry for posting another comment but I got to the part of the video where you are questioning the two screws that hold the hotend in place,,, you might have a point about "canterleavering" if you are doing something seriously wrong with the tip of the printer and it's coming into contact with the workpiece or dragging into the build plate 🤔,,, I always thought you had to avoid the nozzle coming into contact with object's??