Thanks for this video! You've really explained this well. I've been searching for various instructional videos on bike repair lately and I'm glad to say this is it. I've just ordered the bottom bracket removal tool so now I know exactly what I need to do.

wow....looking at various posts you have put up, I have never learned so much about bikes (see your ceramic bearing video) good job!

Excellent! I had to work with most of the Loctite products before I retired, especially 609. Make sure you use the 609 here to allow removal later if needed. In the old days before we had Loctite 609 we often used......clear nail polish! Seriously! Dont know if it would work here as it has acetone and I would not want it to contact an epoxy-carbon frame. Also your application of the 609 is right on. Too many people apply way too much and it then glops out everywhere (like perhaps into the bearings here). In this application you only need a film of it like you applied . I also have to commend you on talking about the cure time! Most people say it 'dries' in 24 hours. There is no drying, it is a chemical reaction and thus it cures. Finally, this chemical reaction takes place anaerobically, so when you are done do not squeeze the bottle before capping it to get the air out 'so the bottle lasts longer' like I have often seen. Just use it, wipe off the bottle threads if any spilled, and put the cap back on. You have great videos.

@waltp3373

4 жыл бұрын

I've used nail polish for years on screws to keep them from coming loose.

What a great video! Very helpful. Step by step and full of details. Thanks a lot!

Oh man that must be such a nice feeling. Every time I try and fix my bike I gets worse or something else breaks. 😢

@ollieb9875

4 жыл бұрын

I've been "fixing" my bike months hah. New carbon handlebars, stem, seat post, saddle.. groupset, shifters, cabling.. tubes and tyres.. it never ends! I keep buying the wrong things. For instance, installing those microSHIFT shifters and cheapo Chinese derailleur without realising now I don't have a barrel adjuster for indexing. no adjuster on the derailleur?! Jesus 🙄 Mind you, not much else to work on when in lockdown and it's pissing with rain 😂 be well, ride safe!

@Chobaca

4 жыл бұрын

@@ollieb9875 nice to know it's not just me.

@SegaDisneyUniverse

4 жыл бұрын

For real! I tried fixing up my brand new bike and ended up tipping it over by accident and chippped one of my break levers! I have bad luck with mountain bikes!😐

@ollieb9875

4 жыл бұрын

@Hartley Hare just like that eh 😆 what can happen with levitating bikes is the chain stays get knocked out of alignment, a bad thing. With steel you can coax it back but aluminium I dunno, carbon I do believe it's totally dickered but it should just snap. Or the wheel is bent, that may be fixed with trueing I suppose. Ah well. So much for flying bikes eh 😅

@fedor5664

4 жыл бұрын

Lol me too

I don't even have the same crank setup and I still watched the whole video. haha! Excellent video.

Great video!!!! Like the tools you make....thanks for the tips!!!

Great vid. Thanks so much for posting this! I hear TREK are returning to threaded BB's.

Nice job on the video - very well done. After replacing the bot bracket bearings, most of the remaining creak on my bike went away after greasing and re-torquing the chain ring bolts. I also filed down a small burr (1/2mm high) on one of the rings where it contacted the spider.

My BB30 drove me to near madness🤪 Changed to a Praxis conversion and therapy sorted😁 Great Vid

@avenpace

4 жыл бұрын

I had the same problem with my Cannondale CAAD12 from the start ! Praxis is one of the best choices out there, but if to stretch budget a little bit more I would go for custom Hambini - his BB's just rocks, unbelievable performance - Aerospace tolerances, guarantee a no slop fit with good retention, One Piece design is inherently creak free, ultra low friction bearings, No Hammers to install or remove

@rcg9573

4 жыл бұрын

Those are the biggest advantages of the Hambini over others like BBInfinite, Praxis , etc, you don’t need a hammer to pound the thing out of your frameset, and his tolerances are simply the best in the biz because his own name and rep are on the line. Also, his one piece BB is the easiest install and remove of any BB on the planet. I would never put an overpriced Praxis or BBInfinite BB into one of my frames. BBInfinite is a joke. Skateboard quality Enduro bearings marketed to gullible fools, and sold as if they are aerospace quality. And the BBInfinite service instructions say to use an air-hammer to assist with removing their overpriced junk BB. An air-hammer. ROTFLMFAO. Hambini all the way. If you ever have an issue with a Hambini BB you can actually communicate with the guy, who designed and machined it as well.

@xdirugamesh

4 жыл бұрын

@@rcg9573 how to purchase BB hambini? Sorry im new to a bike world

@82vitt

4 жыл бұрын

@@avenpace His tolerances aren't "Aerospace" you idiot. They are the bicycle industry tolerances i.e. 0.005" or 0.01mm fit. Stop peddling that lie as it gives bicycle manufacturers an excuse not to deliver their products with the required tolerances observed.

Super video. I had to do the same thing on my trek madone bb90. One thing I have had issues with is lightweight skewers not clamping the wheels tightly enough casing the rear wheel to creak.

I work at FSA and we have been doing some experiments in the shop focusing in creaking noise from the BB. We used Loc Tite 380 (Black) on one of these bikes. It holds as well as 609 and does not cause issues with removal later. The great thing about 380 is that it expands and becomes sort if like a rubber texture as it cures. This fills micro voids between the cup/bearing and it's contact surface better. FSA is not going to republish it's documents to change to recommending 380 but here in the U.S. office this is what we do with our own bikes, demo/show bikes and the rare repair we do for anyone locally we may work with. Good video by the way. I have directed people to your channel for tips on doing there own repairs

@stevenleffanue

5 жыл бұрын

Thank you for directing people to my vid. Joe. Thanx for the tip on Loctite 380 black,I will definitely investigate it. So FSA may recomend Loctite 380 soon after some testing?

@joeottsoulbikes415

5 жыл бұрын

@@stevenleffanue I dont think the company as a whole will ever officially recomend 380 as we already have thousands of BB instructions printed but it is definatly the preferance of the staff here in the United States office for those of us with BB30 or PF30 frames. Several bike makers will be making the change to T47 over the next couple of years and letting go of all the press fit standards. FSA now has a T47 bottom bracket that we make since so many bike companies have asked us to make one. It seems to be the future.

@joeottsoulbikes415

5 жыл бұрын

@@stevenleffanue your videos are clear, well thought out, informative and professional. The riders I have directed to your channel for help love it because you are a rider like them working in your garage instead of a stuffy corparate video in a studio. I will continue to guide people to your channel if it is ok with you.

@stevenleffanue

5 жыл бұрын

Ha,yeh,in my rusty ol shed. Nice that you guys ride your bikes too. Thanx again Joe 😎

@whssy

4 жыл бұрын

@@joeottsoulbikes415 T47 is the future as long as bike manufacturers are unable to achieve or are unwilling to invest in proper quality assurance, but it's essentially just another set of press fit adapters, when all's said and done.

Literally after the first 20 seconds of the video it has helped me identify and confirm the issue with my bike... I have a carbon bike and thought there might be a frame issue. But after hearing the creak from your bottom bracket, it's exactly the same as mine.

Finally! You’ve nailed it. You described the noise I’ve been hearing perfectly. I have been dealing with a noise (that drives me nuts!), and my bike repair keeps trying to convince me it’s a chain issue. I knew better. While I wouldn’t tackle something of this difficulty, I can now tell THEM what it is. Thanks for giving me the knowledge to finally get my quiet ride back 😃

@globalgourmand

Жыл бұрын

Same! I'm like "there's a noise! It's the BB." They're like "look, no BB noise, its fine."

@Newtttton

Жыл бұрын

I spent close to 300 USD in three different bike shops to nail down/fix annoying creaking noise. They replaced my pedals, cassette, bottom bracket and full headset service and still the noise wouldn't go away. One mechanic even suggested I learn to live with it as it's possible I have a defective frame. I spent hours on google and watching videos trying to see what else could be done. One youtube commenter suggested putting grease around the seat post clamp. I thought it can't be that simple. Plus one shop has already put grease on the seat post but not on the clamp. So I removed the clamp, cleaned it and reinstalled with fresh grease. Went for a test ride. Lo and behold, NO MORE NOISE. I was ecstatic. I was speechless. I thanked God.

@fredevangelista2061

Жыл бұрын

Lg

So happy to find your channel - great videos over a wide range of bicycle topics and very clear instructions on repairs and hacks. Thank you.

I founded my creaking sound coming from my shoe clips. Make sure all fasteners are tight. Thanks for your videos. Learning a lot.

@hornet224

2 жыл бұрын

Seat springs creak too.

5 years of CX with jet washing, multiple FSA BBs, no creaking. Bought tools. Got top quality replacement bearings ready (Hambini), but so far no need. Damn, looking forward to dealing with it when it happens But agree, it’s a terrible system, designed to save money for the manufacturer at the expense of the rider

@whssy

4 жыл бұрын

Out of interest, what make is your frame?

Another good tip in the bag! Thanks

Perfect Video, Thank you so much,😊 you not just told the solution you also told it's mechanism and how it Damaged by the time, That's very knowledgeable😊😊

Beautiful! Very satisfying little job and great results. Thank you 🙏🏼 😊

Amazing. I had know idea how to do this. Thanks, great vid.

Attentive mechanic. Love it 👍

Man your channel is a lifesaver!

Brilliant. Thanks for this.

Very hard to locate where the creacking sound comes from sometimes when you are riding the bike. I tought it was the press fit bottom bracket that where creacking on my road bike, upgraded to carbon wheels and the sound was gone. It was from the wheels. Probably the trough axle that was dry. On my full suspension, the creacking sound came from the pedals. Again I belived it was from the bottom bracket, a threaded bottom bracket in this case. My advice is to grease everything, before you remove the crank and work on the bottom bracket.

Mate you are a legend.

Just what I needed 😅many thanks

thanks, shared with a few FB groups

I had it too on my bike with a bb 30 . I brought it too the bike shop and they put an aftermarket wheels manufacturing mfg bb 30 assembly but it still creacked . Then i fixed it myself with loctite 243 from work . Unscrewed the wheels bb 30 cleaned it with degreaser and put 243 loctite threadlocker problem solved . I put it only between the aluminium bottembracket shell and the wheels assembly . Because its made of 7075 aluminium not much chance of creak , i assume most standard bottombrackets that come with bikes are of a too weak aluminium , thus causing the outerrace being able to move in the frame . So if the cups are of a sufficient high quality alu alloy , it might be enough to just put loctite between the cup and the bottombracket itself . In this way you are sure the bearings and spindle come out easy. Loctite 243 is very strong but the other type might be even better .

For your information. I've just received the first onepiece converter, from PF30 to 386EVO, from Hambini Engineering. I opted for a onepiece sleeve enabling you to replace the bearings yourself. Could not find one on the market, so Hambini made me a custom one. As I have an almost all black Cannondale Supersix EVO HiMod, I had it anodized in black locally. I bought the carbon primer and retaining compound from Park Tools. The primer, AP-1, equals Loctite 7649, the retaining compound RC-1 equals Loctite 680. From Park Tools they are pretty costly, so if you can find Loctite products cheaper, buy them instead. Installing cups are provided by Hambini, you just need a homemade press tool like the one shown in the video above, only with a longer threaded rod as you start wider, sleeve and shell width. Rgr

@borano2031

2 жыл бұрын

@@gokaygs Fully OK. Sometimes I can have a clicking sound, but I think it´s the pedals, Speedplays, crying for new bearings, or a antifriction lubrication.. I´d buy again if facing same problem, the onepiece design must be better than anything twopiece. Rgr

Thanks mate , I took apart the bottom bracket using a crank puller and then the wrachet and cyclo cartridge bottom bracket tool I took everything out cleaned and put on a good amount of grease and put it back together , the halfords crank puller was too tight a fit so I bought one on ebay and it was fine , now its smooth and no creak so thanks again 👍

The more recent videos about this discuss the contact area of the pedal spindle, with the inner race of the bearings. You can sometimes see marking on the axle where it mates with the bearing, you can actually this at 9mins and 8 seconds in this video. Apparently fine grit finds its way there, or lack of lube, one of the causes of creaking. Interestingly that doesn't seem to happen on threaded set ups.

Really informative. I was hit with this plague after a near death experience where a driver almost ran me over even though I had the right of way. If it wasn't for me gripping my breaks and sliding I would've been in the hospital. Shortly after that stupid event I heard cracking noises whenever I would pedal. I commute to work and I was scared that the frame or something was cracked so I walked the rest of the way. I googled and KZreadd for solutions and your video helped me out the most.

Very good demonstration, thank you. My bottom bracket slightly different but principal the same. Will have to see when I take it apart, Mine started clicking after only a few hundred miles.

@stevenleffanue

5 жыл бұрын

Yes. Most manufacturers just press the BBs in dry.

Don’t forget a primer as anaerobic adhesives will fuse any carbon it touches ;)

Thank you, I've only just installed a threaded BB into an aluminium frame and its developed a creek after 900kms. Used liberal amounts of lithium grease so maybe I've over torqued them. Will try Loctite as 609 is non hardening.

@TheCrossroads09

6 жыл бұрын

Once again your native birds in the background noise are very therapeutic....

@stevenleffanue

6 жыл бұрын

+TheCrossroads09 Haha....sorry no kookaburras this time :)

great stuff, I shared this:-) I haven't Tried this Loctite yet.

Down with press-fit! Seems like a nightmare and only for pros with full time help. I will say that one of the strangest “creaks” I ever discovered was from a COG. COGs and skewers are a good place to start once you rule out your cleats/pedals.

Hi all, my roadbike was exactly the same creaking noise, and was not bottom bracket at all😜. I just tightened up small chainring bolts and sound gone🤩🤩🤩drive me mad that creaking sound for year😂

Press Fit cups that set on each side are prone to creaking. Get a nice locking Press Fit bottom from Praxxis, RaceFace or others that thread together in the middle making one continuous piece. I have multiple bikes with these type of locking bottoms and never have had a creak without using any Locktite.

My new giant escape had a very loud click in tune with the right pedal revolution. It was so loud it would reverberate off the walls of any buildings on my route. Dealer tried as we both thought it was the bottom bracket/crank arms without any luck. 3 months later I've finally found the issue, the derailleur hanger bracket screws were loose. Two tiny M3 CSK hex head screws ! Not totally backed out but they were probably never tightened from the factory. I pulled the bracket off, applied some finish line grease to the bracket/frame interface and all is silent now. Saved myself from buying a new crankset for nothing as the sound certainly sounded like it was eminating from that area.

My creaking when standing up was my front wheel skewer. I have to put grease and lock it super tight to prevent creaking but even after a while it starts again.

@harriethare9266

Жыл бұрын

Fcuk it off. Not worth the stress.

Nice job mate!!!!

I spent ages going over my bottom bracket but couldn't stop the creaking. Changed my Shimano pedals and it stopped....top tip- try the pedals first

Another spot creaking happens is the intersection flats where spokes cross each other. My theory is, rust/tarnish forms from washing my bike and those tight spots do not dry sufficiently allowing corrosion to form. Using Tri-Flow, placing a drop at each intersection then squeezing the two overlapping spokes a few times, stopped the spoke noise creaking. (Just another tip)

@stevenleffanue

6 жыл бұрын

+Lance McGrew Yes thats certainly a potential creaking spot. Thanx Lance.

I am facing these issues right now :( very helpful cheers oz cycle ur da man :P

Other potential creak sources include negative thoughts, fatty foods, low barometric pressure, high solar flux, and a passive-aggressive bike. (Sorry, that last one is redundant.) Great video! I'll be doing all the things you demonstrated this weekend.

@stevenleffanue

3 жыл бұрын

Funny ha ha 😂

Great video as always. I'm planning to buy second hand an 2012 orbea orca. I believe is similar to the one you have. It is fairly in good condition with little mileage. Do you have any specific advice on the bike? Thanks

Great video

this is the only video that actually showcases the noise too

When re fitting the left hand crank I apply copper grease on the spline, also helps reduce creaks.

@krister21johansson

5 жыл бұрын

Copper paste are not good for aluminium.

I ride well over two hundred days a year so I replaced my bottom bracket with a Chris King and have not had a problem since 🤠🤠🤠

Recently put the truvativ bb30 in my 2012 supersix and developed a bottom bracket creak 😭😭. I put back the old ngks. Back to normal for now. The noise was caused by internal bearing failure. It was notchy out the box. I would check for race smothness before condemning bb30 bearings. Be sure bearing go in smooth and flush with snap rings.

Great vid. I would also include the seatpost in your possible creaky farook list.

@someguy9520

6 жыл бұрын

especiallly if it's sligthly too short.

@stevenleffanue

6 жыл бұрын

+RadioSnivins Thanx...yes theres a long list of possible causes of creaks. Sometimes its a process of elimination to find it.

@RadioSnivins

6 жыл бұрын

Darn tootin'. A bike mechanic worth his cheese has to be half MacGyver, and half Hercule Poirot.

@DrDrew1979

6 жыл бұрын

Nice quote! ;)

I never seen anyone applying Loctite on spinde! Unfortunately bike manufacturers are selling shit quality frames with poor tolerances. I was struggling with brand new Focus Cayo just few weeks after purchase. After 3 various tries of various BB PF30 replacement (including Loctite, finally I fitted PraxisWorks expanding BB system, which fixed issue (I had to replace the whole Sram crank system to Shimano 24mm spindle). Shell openings are not round in 99% of frames, there are drilled separately in factory aren't centric (even worse). Best frames are Time and LOOK.

The press fit BB30 on my Felt F5 started creaking after about 6 months. Got the cheap tools from Chain Reaction online store, and a set of $24 ceramic Chinese bearings from ebay. Pressed em in and away she went, no creaks.... until it rained, 3 months later. Took it apart again, cleaned and greased them and pressed em back in with plenty of grease. Then as I was about to put the crank set back in, I thought... you wouldn't put a motor bike crank case together without oil in it would you? So, out came the anti corrosion penetrating oil called Inox. I just added about one or two desert spoons of oil into the housing between the bearings. Because there is no oil pressure, the bearing seals keep the oil inside and when or if the bearings move they soon get oil into the spaces. Two years later and all is well. No creaks and no corrosion, at nearly no cost. Cheers. And the bearings are very happy..lol.

@stevenleffanue

6 жыл бұрын

+ozesalsa Thanx for your experience...so Chinese ceramic bearings do work ok!

Good tip.

i love the work bench

awesome tips.....

I absolutely hate press fit BBs! Last year I bought a bike which had that and almost immediately it started creaking. After returning it to manufacturer for a fix and waiting far longer than I would have liked, it still was creaking. So I just returned it and got myself a much cheaper used mountain bike with normal Hollowtech II bottom bracket that is easy to remove and work with and never creaks! I hope threaded brackets will make a come back cause threadless ones are impractical and harder to maintain.

Great vid. Thanks mate

Bravo, excelente... gracias amigo.

hello, excellent the trick of the wooden cleat to remove the press-fit box from your bike

I thought my bike had a creaking BB. When I finally got around to dealing with it and started cleaning off the frame at the BB shell, I discovered what was making the creaking noise was actually a crack in my aluminum frame, around the back of the seat tube, just above the weld with the BB shell. Not a happy day. 😢

@stevenleffanue

4 жыл бұрын

Oh dear. Well at least you found the problem and may have saved yourself an accident if the tubing came apart whilst you were riding.

I am a casual rider so I am not that hardcore but when my bike was creaking, I took the dust cap thing on the crank arm off and pour a ton of chain lube in there and the creaking stopped. Lol don't know what that was about but happy it stopped.

Update: In The US Loctite is now branded as Permatex in retail locations, while wholesale industrial supplies still sell loctite .

Really nice video :)

I had a noise that only clicked 2 times per complete full cycle, on riding uphill or first few cranks starting out from a complete stop; HARD to find on the stand with no stress! I just bought for my brother, a practically new bike from someone that never found time to ride it. I knew it was not a tired bottom bracket or anything serious of course; I found it was a loose nut on the back wheel; looks like it never got assembled right; there's only 300 miles on this bike, and it has a loose wheel nut? Not tightened to spec from the bike shop or factory. It was only on the left side away from the gears; was quite loose, without much play in it however; but not even finger tight.. 3/4 inch nut, or mm equiv. The loud click was from the loose nut and the lock washer caught between nut and main washer. Wheel did not come off when riding; but I'm amazed original owner did not see that, before selling it to me. It made all the difference to fix one thing at a time; test ride it, and I could tell instantly I had my culprit! Had to re-align the back caliper too; glad I just purchased a rotor alignment shoe that fits over the rotor when adjusting; worked like a charm; I find them difficult to adjust properly otherwise. It was definitely out of alignment once the wheel was on tight; it would not spin for long when on a stand, without realignment, and when I loosened the caliper, took it out of the equation; all was well... nice to have a bike stand, can't recommend it enough; if you like bikes, get a stand.

The worst is when it clicks. Creaking is annoying too.

11:34 - Please, don't encourage them! We have enough standards already! I honestly don't see what the advantage of all the pressfit systems over threaded external cups is anyway. The threaded external BB's were a massive improvement over the older cartridges (with the square taper axles and separate cranks). Beyond that, it seems like they're "innovating" just for the sake of marketing.

@rileyrides7813

4 жыл бұрын

Some of it is so they can manufacturer to lower tolerances. Press fit allows a much wider variance so they don't have to scrap as many frames. Threaded aren't without their failings. But as they don't allow very much variance to the "correct" sizes, so you don't often see poorly manufactured frames make it to market. So everyone thinks it's a better standard when really it's more down to the quality control.... At least that's my understanding of it

@johnystrange665

4 жыл бұрын

Look at Hambini and he will explain all in great detail.

@swolebro

4 жыл бұрын

​@@johnystrange665 yup, I'm a fan of his work. I've also learned that bike manufacturers are bad enough at laying up carbon that I wouldn't trust them to implement a pressfit BB, and I'd rather they stick to threaded, even if there's some more play in it. And I know that if I ever buy a bike with a pressfit BB, I'm going to have to machine a sleeve to fix it. Since my lathe is still broken, I'm happy with my threaded one for now.

The cycling Industry is crazy, put loctite in a Botton Bracket? really? threathed BB is the best system in a bike... Best regards.

DO NOT use bearings that you have knocked out, they have micro dents from being wacked no matter how even pressure you use, always replace bearings that you have knocked out!

@stevenleffanue

4 жыл бұрын

Agree

@markcavandish1295

3 жыл бұрын

You can’t tell me what to do.

@unfortunatelyfortunately5585

3 жыл бұрын

@@markcavandish1295 🤣

@Canuckcancanuck

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks nick. I would have never known that

I used anti-seize grease in my new aluminum BB86 frame (2021 Trek Emonda ALR w/ SRAM dub BB for an 11 speed Quarq crank/powermeter), and my BB just started creaking reallllllllllllly bad after the first 1,000 miles. If people think carbon frames amplify creaking, they should try an aluminum frame sometime. Going to try the Loctite route.

@fuxthebullshit

Жыл бұрын

Did loctite work? Same thing with a 22 emonda alr after only 100 miles.

@drouleau

Жыл бұрын

@@fuxthebullshit Generally speaking, yep....just had my BB replaced as it was getting creaky, back to quiet again

Cassette lock ring not torqued can be another source of creaking.

@ryanotte6737

5 жыл бұрын

Yes, I had that problem once, and now the bottom bracket problem. It is good to check that first because the creaking from the cassette sounds similar to a bottom bracket creaking problem and both tend to occur at regular intervals with the pedaling cadence.

Informative video 👍

Truly excellent video, thank you! Will that BB tool work for mountain bike press fit bottom bracket as well? Shimano Press Fit 92

@stevenleffanue

6 жыл бұрын

Yes it will press the Shimano 92 Greg.

Something to keep in mind For Disassembly 1. Apply localized heat to the assembly to approximately 250 °C. Disassemble while hot.

@floydwilliams8595

Жыл бұрын

🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

This is not a cheap medium-sized paintbrush. It's a SHCT - Special Housing Cleaning Tool!

I have a 2008, Scott Addict R1 with a BSA BB and a SRAM Force GXP 2x11, 175 crankset. I have never, not even one time, had a creaky BB. Maybe, and I'm jus thinking out loud here, **maybe** the old threaded BB was the best way to go in the beginning? I do think the new Chris King T47 standard is excellent. After all, it is threaded.

Many Thanks !!! :)

Thanks!

I had to replace the bearings in my headset due to the noise and charged my pedals No more noise

Thank you so much for including what a creak sounds like. took me so long to find one!!!! But i do have a question, i dont get a creak but when im in my smallest rear cog, I feel like i hear the ball bearings of my bb90 hitting themselves. Any opinion about that?

@stevenleffanue

5 жыл бұрын

Difficult to diagnose from a distance. Try the easy things first like tighten QR skewers,pedals,crank bolts,chainring studs,etc, before pulling bearings out.

I don't even have this bearing type, zoned out.

Evil executive bike company meeting: " Ok guys we need to come up with a plan to make billions of $$$$ in bearing sales" evil laughter in meeting office.

Every time I've had a creak, it's been a loose crank arm.

Did you re-grease those bearings? Repack with grease?

@whssy

4 жыл бұрын

Reusing bearings you've knocked out is a pretty bad idea, except as an "I need to ride my bike until I can get new bearings" solution.

Good video ...Thanks mate

I had creeking noise coming from pressfit bb. Only what worked out is press it out and press back in.

609 is quite strong stuff. If you want to use some milder compound that still does a lot to remove creaking use loctite 641. If you need something better than 609 use 638. If it creaks with 638 correctly applied with primer it's time for a new frame or oversized bearings/cups or screw together bb. I found working with 609 to be a pain. It's much thinner than the other stuff so I'd be really careful to get any close to the bearing seal lip. That means use it much more sparingly when in direct contact with the bearing. When applying to the cup inside the excess gets shoved very close to the seal lip = bad. Also when applying to the inside of the inner race it's also quite close. Thin is the key. When you remove the bearings you'll wish you never used 609 😂. First try a dry fit, then 641 (preferably primered), then 609, then 638. If the bearings are ceramic and use smaller balls, extracting bearings installed with 609 might need to be "pressed out". Hammering will just crush the bearings and the outer race can stay stuck in the shell = bad.

@stevenleffanue

5 жыл бұрын

Good advice Mike. Yes 609 needs to be used sparingly otherwise the bearings want come out without a jackhammer 😁

@globalgourmand

Жыл бұрын

I wondered about it getting on the bearings too. I'll take smooth bearings over creak, personally. I've been putting up with creak for years anyway...

@Kumacattv

Жыл бұрын

Hi Mike, I'm a retired Loctite industrial rep who is a roadie. (32 years of blissful working with OEM's and maintenance pro's) Anyway, your recommendation of 641 is correct. It has roughly half the shear strength of 609. It should be the first option for this kind of application. 638 on the other hand should be avoided at all costs. 638 used to be the strongest retaining compound we make. Now with product formula upgrades 680 is stronger. That said 638 is probably too thick to get carried properly into a press fit. It was really meant for slip fits. Same goes for 680. Also, you mention primer but this is also a really important point. We make 3 primers. The two most common are SF 7649 and SF 7471. Of the two 7471 is the one I'd suggest. The reason is 7649 kicks and reacts very quickly. It could start curing once the resin touches the primed surface. Given that the shell is aluminum and the cups look to be anodized (maybe Oz can confirm) the 7471 will really ensure it cures on these unreactive surfaces. Remember, Loctite resins re anaerobic. That means they cure when trapped between ferrous metal surfaces and the air is removed. None of the surfaces are ferrous in the video so curing could take a long time, maybe 72 hours. Full cure would be 6 hours with 7471 and the parts Oz is using. I pasted a link of the TDS. If you go to page 2 you'll see a primer chart. The curves show you how quickly priming and no priming works. Anyway, I love seeing how people fix BB issues. I'd had a few in my day. Thanks to Oz for the video post. Cheers.

@cyclopenguin

11 ай бұрын

​@@Kumacattvhi! thanks for the info; what about si5910?

@Kumacattv

11 ай бұрын

Hi there, it's nice to see people reading all these comments. If you're asking whether 5910 would be a good use for this application, the answer is no. There are several reasons. First, 5910 is a oxime (non-corrosive/non-acetic acid) based silicone designed for automotive OEM gasketing applications on stamped parts like oil pans. It has a really high oil tolerance. However for press fit applications like this it would be too thick to get carried into the joint. In fact most of it would get squeezed out during the press. Second, it is an RTV cure. Meaning it uses moisture to cure not anaerobic curing like 609 or 641. There would be so little moisture in that joint it could take up to 7 days or longer to cure. Finally, silicones are designed to be flexible and elastic. Maybe they have 100 psi of shear strength. In this application you need at least 1500 or more to hold the BB bracket. So if you did use it and actually get it together I'm pretty sure the BB would move and eventually fail. So Steve (Oz cycling) has used the correct stuff and I even like the way he applied it to both surfaces. Testing has shown that you get 100% coverage between the parts when you apply it to both sides not one. Anyway, hope this helps. Let me know if you have any other questions. Cheers.@@cyclopenguin

My creak turned out to be the spd cleats on my shoes, after changing bottom bracket, new cranks, new seat post.

@rdmw2445

4 жыл бұрын

Retro Dude, Old man on his bikes ouch

@rafaeldegiacomoaraujo8778

4 жыл бұрын

Classic

This is why i use a sealed bottom bracket but i also own a 500$ hybrid bike though

Aluminum 🤔 Design of bearing press? Great tutorial using Loctite.

bad idea for carbon frames because the loctide makes it even harder to remove the bottom bracket at some time and i feel bad for that carbon alu shell epoxy

@82vitt

4 жыл бұрын

Loctite 609 makes it impossible to remove the cups once the compound sets properly as the bond can only be released under high temperature, min. 150 deg C, which will damage the epoxy resin directly in contact with the shell :(.

Nice video

hmmm ive never seen loctite used on bbs before

I am not sure that blue Loctite will set up to permanently repair the worn aluminum B.B. shell. Mavic used to sell a replaceable B.B. on which you needed to cut an champ-her which the locking nuts would seat on, the cutting tool was supplied with the replacement set. This was typically used on threaded B.B.s when the tread had been stripped in the days of Steel (I am an old man) :) I just wonder if these or something similar is available today? I have never seen a Hambini B.B. but I feel sure his must be better than a Loctite fix. Perhaps a product such as Devcon would gave a better filler for the oval-ed shell or cup.

I have Canyon Ultimate which have carbon shell.Should i use retaining compound on carbon shell?What should i do?

I once was told never use rubbing alcohol as many brands contain some amount of baby oil. This will leave behind a "film" . If you get denatured alcohol from a drug store ..your better off. I also use q-tip cotton swabs instead of a little paint brush for application.. no clean up and inexpensive.. good vid tho..

@stevenleffanue

5 жыл бұрын

Thanx for the tips Mike,I didnt know that about rubbing alcohol.

LOL I was just going to say they have a specific Loctite for that.

@iananddani

4 жыл бұрын

Good they sucked ass at bottom brackets. My left side would slide out if you just tilted the bike. Also "not their problem!!"