Outstanding use of the turbulence T for a rapid air movement change which helps drop out the water droplets. A 4-6" drop tube would be best though. I've seen the use of a 45* between the top 90's which also helps with that.

Nice Job!

Looks good! :)

very helpful, thanks.

@tightwadproductions961

2 жыл бұрын

Glad it was helpful!

i was always told by PROFESSIONALS, to hold the flame on the OPPOSITE side of the solder to allow for capillary action to draw the solder into the joint ..to hold the flame in contact with the solder will cause it to BOIL OUT of the joint ..??!!

@tightwadproductions961

Жыл бұрын

There may be some truth to that, but my dad built and soldered radiators together for the last 20+ years. I'll see what he thinks, as he's the one who did the soldering here.

What size of pipe did you use and did you use L or M piping?i like your set up.

@tightwadproductions961

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks, I just used 3/4in type M pipe.

@rgomez5683

2 жыл бұрын

@@tightwadproductions961 thank you

@anonimous2451

Жыл бұрын

​@@rgomez5683 Type L has alightly thicker walls for higher PSI Compressors and higher capacity of pressure resistance. FYI

@70ixlr86

20 күн бұрын

@@anonimous2451 L is rated at like 800 psi, Hardened L is over 1000. Where would you need anything over 500? :)

@anonimous2451

19 күн бұрын

@@70ixlr86 Never mentioned a thing about the psi rating only that 1 is higher rated than the other. Where do you guys dream this stuff up from?

Total cost?

I keep seeing this copper pipe and all those $150 double dryer things... think yall waste $ ....I work on large yachts, the painter has it down with a simple solution.....if your pushing 150 lbs just use 100 to 150 ft of 1" PVC (sch40 good to 270 lbs, if above 75 degrees might go to 215 bursts at 1450) and use a Motor Guard filter. even better the filters are cheap, sounds weird but just use a roll of toilet paper and rip off about 20 layers and use that in the filter..... Think about this....the guys been doing this for well over 30 years, using high end ( AwlGrip) paint spraying 1 or 2 million dollar yachts no problems !!! the filter case is $80 on Amazon, 1" PVC is less than by an easy 80%... you can use 3/4" pvc just ran a little more. has a just less than 10% more pressure and burst factor. My opinion is just too much hype over this whole thing, the yacht paint is no fool and a smart man and well quality is his key to success.

@oldowl4290

2 жыл бұрын

I agree. With every video I watch of guys building these elaborate copper condensor/dryers it seems they keep trying to one-up each other and reinvent the wheel. Some videos are ridiculous and most don't even realize you should condense and cool the air before it even goes in the tank not after.

@erickandrade7142

Жыл бұрын

Yeah... use 150ft of PVC tubes instead 20ft of copper tubes and the same filters... help me because i can't see the advantage in that.

@kdcustomwoodworking

Жыл бұрын

Did thid guy spray the cabinets ? What has to happen is cool the air when it leaves the motor trying to do it after you will always have moister in the line . For this guy I don't think he spraying anything high end differnt animal when you have to spray one drop of water in 2 k utherthane can and will be a problem .

@walterfletcher6897

Жыл бұрын

@@oldowl4290 what if I sent air over to this before going to tank? I’m in southeast where it’s hot and humid 9 months out of year. Used desiccant dryers, refrigerated dryers and such over the years but looking for something simple to try.

@oldowl4290

Жыл бұрын

@@walterfletcher6897 Yes, a pre-tank cooler is optimal and using several long runs of copper pipe 1/2 or 3/4 set horizontally which zig-zag down to a single dump valve is going to save money in valves as well time to open/close many of them. It also keeps the air, water, and gravity working / moving in the same direction. With vertical runs the condensing water is moving against airflow on every other pipe. Rule of thumb is use 40 to 50ft of pipe in total before it goes back into tank.