I was taught to heat from the bottom, or one side and feed it from the other, same reason, you can watch it flow around the joint and keep a cool wet rag where you don’t want heat, cool project, thanks for sharing!

@70ixlr86

24 күн бұрын

Flame on opposite side. Solder is drawn toward heat I think. But for sure you don't melt the solder with the flame.

@ChallengedCustoms

18 күн бұрын

@@70ixlr86 Always heat your fittings and not the pipe

What a bloody great idea, next time my plumber mate wants some paintwork done I’ll get him to knock me up one.

@ShenkeGarage

2 жыл бұрын

Seems to work pretty well :)

It would be a good idea to extend the piece of pipe at the bottom that the valve is hooked to so that you have a larger area to collect the water otherwise the water keeps getting moved along with the air.

@sannyassi73

2 ай бұрын

One of my first thoughts, a reserve will minimize extra water blowing to the next valve making it even more efficient ;)

Good job mate, I have been watching episodes here and there. The build is coming along nicely and your video's are easy to watch as well. Very informative and clear spoken. Cheers.

@ShenkeGarage

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks Mate. Its certainly coming along. Home stretch

Nice work, great cost effective idea. You can use the silver solder Reece supplied with the correct technique, but I've been a HVAC-R tech for 18 years.

Nice one sammy really enjoyed that water in the lines and humidity blisters in a paint job is a pain in the arse

@ShenkeGarage

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks Mate. Hopefully this idea reduces that risk

Good vid mate, I love that you have a crack and explain it very easy and straight forward. Keep doing what your doing 👏 love it

I have many faults with this set-up. I'm about to install a big compressor for media blasting and CNC. It's a 100 gallon tank / 5hp motor with pump rated for 175 psi. I've seen countless DIY copper pipe systems like this and agree that with this type it pays to "get what you pay for" by using 3/4-1" pipe for your dryer system. However, where these vertical types fails is A- the lack of cooling and condensing the air before it enters the storage tank rather than (or including) afterwards and B - The use of vertical pipe layout rather than horizontal. Because you have air that is around 200 degrees entering the tank directly from the pump it means its hot, expanded, and moist which means a lot less air volume is being stored and water is collecting in the tank. And because cold air is more dense, the tank will hold more air volume if cooled and dried first. I've seen people use both methods but decided that using an AC condenser and fan set up before the air enters the tank is 100% more ideal and really negates most, if not all of the need for the numerous copper pipes like you have here, (or some could be used post tank for added drying). Lastly, having them mounted top (inlet) to bottom (outlet) in zig-zag horizontal rows (rather than vertical columns) allows the water to work better with gravity.. in essence "going with the flow" and it allows for a lot less expensive ball valves in vertical columns where the water will get trapped at each bend. Given the extensive research I've done and feedback gained on sites like Practical Machinist and others I just can't say that this set-up is ideal and is definitely cost prohibitive. I think you could've got the same results with less effort, less materials, and a more efficient design.

@AutoMotoMechanic

Ай бұрын

Now I have a project for these A/C condensers I have laying around. What a great idea. 👍

Sweet as Sammy... I've been giving it some thought myself. And a secondary air tank,as my compressor isn't quite up there. Cheers mate. Good one

@ShenkeGarage

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks Mate :)

A No-6 tip on your map gas would concentrate the heat to where you wanted it, Air Conditioning suppliers could supply this, but as usual it all costs. What you have done works, so well done. 🤟😎

Legend - I really appreciate the parts list that you made 👌🏼

@ShenkeGarage

Жыл бұрын

No dramas mate. I'm not a plumber so took me a few trips to Bunnings and reece so that list will take out all the frustrations I had. 👍

Might want a longer drop leg on second or third drop/valve. That's where water sits/collects until you open the valve. Not sure why no one seems to include nipples off the ball valves. Cheap clear tubing run into a drilled and vented paint bucket is a lot nicer than water stains on a wall, from venting. Super congrats on getting it done, even if you do modify it a bit. Sorta leaning toward install between pump and tank, with keeping the tank dry as a thought.

Nice job 👍

Good job mate 👍🏻

Awesome build, love the video. Cheers!

Clever guy, never gave it a thought

Great video, I'm going to copy your design! Thanks for this video!

If the fitting joint has been brought to the proper temperature you only have to touch the solder to it once and capillary action will wick it around. Having to add it 2 or 3 times means your fitting isn't hot enough

@2breal91

8 ай бұрын

Was thinking the same thing. Load it with flux get it good and hot then remove flame before adding solder. Seems like he was melting the solder with the flame which may cause a leak down the road.

Had had exactly the same experience with that flux and wire when I was trying to repair some power steering lines, I eventually made I work for me but it us pretty terrible to use as by the time the solder would melt the base material was cherry red hot and wanted to basically boil off the solder

I just got done building mine,I turned it 90 degrees,one valve to drain. I used 45' of 3/4" copper.

Awesome idea man, thanks for putting the parts list up in the notes also

@ShenkeGarage

2 жыл бұрын

No Dramas at all Mate :)

Dude, this has been on my to do list for yonks. Had 2 paint jobs on my cars ruined because of water in the lines....

Nice work… could have perhaps Automatic Mechanical Float Drain Valve on the end of the ball valve and that would have reduced the bends, etc (pressure loss mainly) and materials costs.

Great job! What was the temperature difference before and after the copper tubes?

Just came across your vid on diy air dryer system. I will be building one next week. Thanks for the info. Love the table. Did you do a video on that. If not what are the specs please. 😊

You could have made it a lot simpler and cheaper by putting it horizontal and put 1 ball valve or water trap at the bottom. I made one in mt last shop. Took 12 6ft(2m) lengths of copper and zig zaged them at 2 inches (50mm) apart with a water trap at the bottom. When i screwed it to the wall i flexed each piece a little to give it a continuous downward slope. The condensation always flows down to the bottom. I had learned that you want about 50ft (15m) length for cooling. But, you still did a great job. Looks sweet too.

@ShenkeGarage

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks Mate. Maybe that idea will help someone else if they considering building one. Probably a bit late for me to try that idea.

@dolphincliffs8864

Жыл бұрын

I did mine like you described,it works very well.

Subbed because your brutally honest love it

@ShenkeGarage

2 жыл бұрын

☺️☺️ thanks for the sub Mate

Mapp gas torches struggle with any pipework over 1/2”, usually taking a lot of heat,up to three times what oxy-acet does to do the same job.

Another awesome video mate! Love your build! How's the Nutech going? Just finished building my shed thinking about going same direction

An elegant solution, but a bit expensive compared to others I've seen. It's a shame that copper has gotten so dear. Another problem I face, having just a two-car garage to use as a shop, is space to put something like this. Most of my wall space is already allocated to storage, etc. I'm looking at using a Amazon sourced transmission cooler to deal with my lack of space. Thanks for the nice quality video.

I have been a Industrial Rotary Screw Compressor technician/engineer for 15 years and I see a lot of comments about installing the piping between the head and tank. I honestly think the DIY Air dryer should be after the system. Utilize the air receiver as a "wet receiver" . This is just my opinion. But interesting method. Well up.

@stevenmarston8923

15 күн бұрын

Seems most want to save their reciever tanks rather than have them rust from the inside out without any warning of impending failure. Just sayin'. I do understand the "wet reciever" idea though. Maybe if it has an auto-drain feature that would help mitigate "some" rusting but all in all, there's going to be rust unless the inside of the tank is coated with something.

they sold you all the wrong stuff for what you were doing,silver solder is the best thing 1mm sticks and paste it would have run around all the pipes with low heat.loved doing it.

the correct way to solder those pipes is to preferably heat the bottom and when it's warm enough to melt solder from the top you touch the top with the solder and it will put the solder in all the way around and you're done although you don't really have to heat it from the bottom that is the best method because heat rises I will say though I am going to make one of these it looks like a great idea thanks

Yeah the solder sticks are because of our materials and water over here. Most things aren't rated for the soft solder because of it. Definately some tricks to doing it (coming from a plumber) The soft solder should be fine in this application 🤙

@ShenkeGarage

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks Mate. I presume you would require a smaller flame but higher heat? I used to use silver solder hydraulic pipes but we used to use oxy and acetylene.

@benbrown8463

2 жыл бұрын

@@ShenkeGarage just need to concentrate it abit more, The torch distance away from the metal is big too. With an oxy you can get it done in under a minute but thats the difference between 2000 degrees and 6000 with a smaller flame

I'm a plumber and there is nothing wrong with the solder Reece supplied you. You have to put the flux from the blue lidded container inside the brass fitting where the copper tube slips into and heat up the brass fitting till nearly red hot. Your steel table would be sucking heat out of the brass fitting and making it take longer to heat too.

@billsimpson2392

Жыл бұрын

Good call. A "Fire Brick" on the table helps heaps too hey!

Thanks for sharing this! I'm using your video to put a system that's very similar up im my garage. I just wonder where you sourced the 6 weld in tube adaptors to ¾ BSP male from?

Mapp gas would’ve been fine for doing copper to copper but the bigger brass fittings it can be a struggle, especially with it in the vice because the vice would’ve been sucking a lot of your heat out of it

If you flipped the 90 and T you would create a turbulence point that would extract the water to the drain tubes better. With the T straight in line with the drain tube it is not as effective as it could be. The silver solder is best but yea takes more heat. If you add tinning flux it helps bond the solder to the pipe better. Nice Job though.

@mattymattmatt101

8 ай бұрын

Just reading through the comments. Looking for any suggestions. Are you basically saying if the air ran in the opposite direction through the system it would be more efficient?

@anonimous2451

8 ай бұрын

@@mattymattmatt101 No that is not what I am saying. I am saying vertical pipe's with a 90* with a nipple into a T causes a turbulence effects causing the water vapor to drop down while the lighter air rises. The water vapor by being heavier is separated at this point which drains down to the catch tubing which should be at LEAST 6" long to trap the moisture. The riser is then turn with 2 90*'s at the top (I personally used 2 45* with a short as possible nipple in between causing a rapid change to force the air down to the next 90 to T in the 4th and 6th pipes. By the time it reaches the last (6th or 8th whatever you wish to do) there is nearly zero water vapor left to be trapped. Then add in a 3 stage Regulator, Desiccant and final micron filter BEFORE releasing the air to return to your Mass air storage tank, you virtually eliminate any water vapor in your tank or projects final release whether that be a paint sprayer, laser cutter or whatever. Basically in the starting picture, Swap the T and 90 position so the T is after the 90, not before it. Which in effect would also move the Drain Valve over to the 2nd, 4th, 6th, 8th, 10th or however far you wish to build it out. 6 is enuff if you use 3/4 or 1" pipe. If you are using 1/2" (adequate but not as effective as larger size piping. Just depends on your budget and useage) I would add in a 4th PAIR making it the 8th pipe. This is what I did and 1/2" piping is the feed to a trunk line that splits off in many directions for various work bench area's. I did however use a 8" 3/4" drop down pipe with a drain valve. If you understand the physics of air dynamics, when a smaller feed expands into a larger pipe is causes the air to expand which helps to separate water vapor. However dried air crammed back down to a smaller venturi does not create the same effect unless traces of water vapor are left behind, hence the reason for a 3 stage filter process to catch any possible remaining by the Desiccant filter

nice job.. But stand the camera on a tripod and film the progress..

Wouldnt call it a dryer, more so a big water trap. Would be good to know how effective and efficient it is compared to an actual dryer?? Delta T test? It would be fine on a little system like yours for bulk moisture and basic stuff in the shed but bringing the ppm down enough to paint? I've seen and heard some pretty gnarly stories about painting in the shed trying to do it on the cheap. I would still look at a post line filter at the least if you're painting.

@DOMTHESAUSAGE

2 жыл бұрын

i used 2 reciever driers from repco for my system worked a treat and cost f all

hi dropper pipes [water reservoir] that connect to ball valves coming from main line need to be longer at least 300mm--450mm easy . Water storage in shop lines is /can be measured in mtrs . REMEMBER its a water separator NOT a drier . Yes u can buy a desiccant drier .

The vice chews up your heat.😮 Just sit your fittings on a brick. Quicker and easier.😊

Solder travels to the heat. Always heat your fittings and not the pipe. This is why your pipes are black. The hard solder is for Oxyacetylene.

Queensland Humidity is a bitch when it comes to dew point and temp. Most water traps on home compressors are also mounted way to close to the tank as well. There are better and cheaper ways though. The system you have built would be better applied in the US as they tend to run their systems at a much higher pressure (150psi) so they reach saturation faster and there is more moisture pushed through. The most important bit is to keep the receiver/tank dry. Most machines have a drain at the bottom that is a real pain to access, I always remove these and fit an elbow for a horizontal tank. Then a hose up to a ball valve mounted by the switch to enable a easier way to drain the receiver. Easy to get to and drain water. Remember if there is standing water in the tank you have nearly reached saturation and the air has the highest dew point possible for that temp. That can be noisy and messy to use but you can fit a larger diameter pipe on the outlet and turn it into a silencer and mud trap. I use 1/12`` galv pipe about 12`` long. Threaded to the outlet of the drain via hose or pipe. The pipe is then stuffed with cotton cloth rags an compressed via a punch or press inside the pipe. Once tightly filled I drill holes spaced but at 90 deg from each other up the sides of the pipe. Then just fit nails into these and bend over the sharp side. This will keep the rags from being blown out when used. Mine has been in use for 10 years (3 cars paint and body also frequent workshop use) and is still working properly. You can get Auto drains that operate via a float but these are $$ and either leak some air or are unreliable. On industrial systems the air is cooled post compression pre storage to help lower the dew point and maintain the driest air possible. You could still effectively use the copper pipe radiator you have made and get a lot more out of it by doing a few mods. The Air is at its highest temp when it leaves the compressor head you could divert it through your radiator then into the receiver. This would allow more moisture to fall out and feed your water trap with drier cooler air. I would fit a reverse flow check valve prior to the radiator as well Finally for painting I always use a second 5 micron water trap with hoses that are never used on anything else. I haven't yet had water problems whilst painting. In a perfect world a refrigerated drier is the best solution but these are $$$ among with specialized very low micron filters and coalescing water traps but those are beyond my budget. Cheers

@ShenkeGarage

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the advice. I think I will divert the compressed air from the compressor and straight into the copper tubing and then into the air tank. Then after the air tank is the water/Separator and I may get another filter after that. Cheers

Awesome thanks. Just thinking for maximum moisture removal, would it not be better to flip it 180 degrees and have the air inlet at the bottom, air outlet at the top?

@stevenbeach748

Жыл бұрын

Surface area is the same no matter how it’s mounted

@dolphincliffs8864

Жыл бұрын

Too many valves on this version.

Nice job. Why didn't you put it between the compressor outlet and the tank inlet?

@ShenkeGarage

2 жыл бұрын

Thankyou. Yes I may end up re routing the hoses to do this. Would be better to cool the air before going into the tank.

I have that exact compressor. From total tools ippy

@st8jkt69

2 жыл бұрын

Me too... and it gets oil in the system if the pump is filled anywhere near the dot on the sight glass. Have considered this set up but running a 4 stage filter until it shits its self. Total tools didn't won't to know about it

What is the pressure rating of those copper pipes?

❤ job well done by the way are you living in Australia? ❤

This type of cooler, not dryer, will work so long as ambient temps are consistent. A drop in ambient air temp and your dry air will no longer be dry. That's why refrigerated dryers are desired as they pull the compressed air down to a lower dew point. This is better than nothing tho.🤷🏻

❤ use your air pressure to blow off your air compressor. It looks very dusty. ❤

Not a good sales pitch for Reece. Any reason you didn't fit it between the head and the tank? Alot of your moisture will be inside the tank, so the idea being to dry it before it hits that.

@ShenkeGarage

2 жыл бұрын

Yes I think you are right. I think I will re route the hoses to cool the air before it gets stored in the tank.

Always leave the ball valves open when soldering

i would be surprised if you ever get anything past the 3rd drain, just saying. but it should make for a pretty good painting supply

@ShenkeGarage

2 жыл бұрын

I think you are right Mate. It should do the job for what I am doing with it :)

You have to put the cooler between the compressor head and the air tank. The cooler must be cooled by a strong fan. It is enough to make it from a copper pipe wound into a spiral. There must still be a water trap before entering the air tank. For example, AF-2000 on aliexpress.

As an Auzzy I can't believe that you tried silver solder when it requires greater skills than soft solder. And the next thing I have trouble in understanding If you never joined copper fittings before and that obvious why you did not try to join the fittings off-camera!!!.

Nice looking water separator ya built there.....kinda like a giant radiator....but the ball valves are key at the low spots. This fella used a "remote" transmission cooler setup to DRY THE AIR THAT FILLS THE TANK. A compact setup that forces condensation....probably cost a little less than all that copper tubing hangin' on yer garage wall -----> kzread.info/dash/bejne/q3iD0MOYidycaaw.html Nice setup to force condensation ya got there though !!

Would ag pipe be a bit cheaper instead of copper

@ShenkeGarage

2 жыл бұрын

Im not really too sure sorry. I guess copper would be better as it transfers heat better.

@jakeausten9052

2 жыл бұрын

@@ShenkeGarage yea i suppose your right. just a thought. need to something similar to my shed for when i paint my tonner. keep up the videos mate really enjoy them.

Nice job for sure, but Ill bring up a point just for reference. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong but why would you want 3/4" pipe over 1/2" very pricey for the larger pipe and fittings. And those pitcocks you used to let water out are serious over-kill, and again very pricey. I priced this out in 1/2" for maybe just over $100 US. I'm not even sure these units work good enough to spend $400 on. Again I may be totally full of it, feel free to correct my thinking. I just finished rebuilding my 35 year old Campbell Housfield compressor that's been running in my shop, daily, for over 30 years before sitting for 10 unused. so I'm looking at doing on of these.But $400 would make that out of the question at this point.

Heading to reece now, thanks for the tip. When the Ute back from the trimmers??

@ShenkeGarage

2 жыл бұрын

No dramas mate. Hopefully in a week :)

I know it’s a year ago but if you see this turn your flame down quit a bit

You probably got 2% silver solder, I've got some and it's shit, i use 5% and it flows really nicely.. silver solder is far superior but you need to use the right ones

@ShenkeGarage

Жыл бұрын

Thanks for the advice Mate. If it was 2% it was hard to melt...

That dryer should be between the compressor and the tank. Saves you a lot of rust in the tank plus it don´t restrict airflow to your tools.

i dont like the desgin, too many ball value, maybe a collector on bottom

Your vice is acting as a heat sink. Find a different way to hold your parts.

@robbroy

Жыл бұрын

I'll second that - unnoticed heat sinks are a total job wrecker. Seems like the heat would transfer to where you need it but guaranteed it absolutely favours flowing to the bench vise (think of it like resistance in electrical terms ie heat will flow to the area of lowest resistance, higher heat capacity).

Get to it already. Damn

🔥🔥 the solder today is really expensive. It’s insane $27 for a small role at Home Depot and $50 for a little bit bigger roll of it. I found a box of it had an estate sale that was about 2 feet long by 6 inches wide full of it for five dollars. I suspected if I bought that same solder over to Home Depot if Hobby would cost me $800 to $900. For what I paid five dollars for.🔥🔥😊 the best flux is ❤. thinning flux. ❤

Nice job 👍

There is not much condensing reaction with your current setup. Take the current setup remove the ball valves and bury it outside beneath the earth 6ft and from there, pass it through another water separator.