thank you . I am an Iranian, I would love to get a carpenter future. I can not very well understand English. But I can learn to work with wood. And also learning English. By your video. Thanks for everything

@Jodall

4 жыл бұрын

English is great here atleast though! Good luck

Thanks for commenting, glad it was of some help. Great to have you with us Colin

Thanks for taking the time to comment, we appreciate it. Great to have you with us Colin

Thanks for commenting, great to have you with us Colin

Thanks for commenting, we appreciate you taking the time, Great to have you with us Colin

Thanks! You answered my question about yellowing. So, now I know what I want to avoid the yellowing as much as possible.

Thank you so much! This is of great help and answered exactly the question I had regarding satin selection

Thank you, this has helped me a lot making a decision on my Desk project. It's been explained to me before but seeing it makes more sense.

Well, I hope this vid was of some use to you, but thanks for commenting, we appreciate you taking the time. Great to have you with us Colin

thanks, I wanted to see a live sample of the exact water based polyurethane you were using from Varathane, looks great

Very helpful! Saved my woodwork assessment on comparing oil and water based finishes. you legend!

You keep it simple. Thank for the information. It's good to see someone who cares about woodworking... and isn't trying to let people know how good they are.

Perfect! I'm watching this as I get ready to go to a store and pickup a clear finish.

Colin, great video. I do repairs for a property management company. Last week I had to replace two birch doors with clear hemlock jambs and casing that a tenant had destroyed. The original doors had been finished with pre-cat lacquer. I matched the finish almost perfectly using Varathane, No Odor, water based Polyurethane in semi-gloss. I was able to brush on two coats much quicker that I could have mask and sprayed two coats of lacquer. The ten old doors had darkened a bit with age, I expect in a year or so the new doors will too. I'm sold, water based Polyurethane is fantastic.

@knecht105

9 жыл бұрын

Ed Waggoner Sr. Hi Ed, yes it surely does the trick for certain jobs ... love you comment, thanks buddy, many others will learn from your example too.

Thank you for your test! I would guess that if you were doing an entire set of furniture and you had very cool/blue room, the water based would go better, but even in a video I could see the clear depth difference with the oil coat, and it had much more character even with the tradeoff of a more yellow tone. I will probably choose the oil b/c of the depth of the oil and that I have a more warm tone to my place. Both seem to be very viable options and I will consider both any future project. Thank You!

Hey Pete, thanks for commenting Colin

Great video! I have a new home that's almost complete and the people doing our stairs only use an oil base. We have a light stain (grey almost blonde color) and everything I see online says that oil will tend to pull a little yellow. We have birch railings and treads. Should we use water base?

That Halo theme intro, outstanding

great presentation, Colin, like all your vids. I was wonderingwhether the apparently great contrast with the oil based was really because it is a more yellow finish and the eyes have soaked up more of the color contrast. So, could a thin base coat of shellac or even tru oil under the water based finish correct for this by popping out the grain? Cheers. Rob

Yes you can use water based finishes for kitchen cabinets, and according to the manufacturers, they will not yellow over time. And I did use water based finish on the kitchen cabinets I made, and I am NOT happy with them. They haven't yellowed, but they are not giving the kind of protection, even after 3 coats, that I was hoping for. I personally would not use this type again in my own kitchen. I think I am going to have to strip them and re-do them. Hope this helps ... Colin

@manoelanjos

4 жыл бұрын

Hi , If you remove and finish again, what the type of coat do you recomend, for not to turn yellowed, Thanks

Hello Colin, Great presentation. You got me thinking when you mentioned satin-based finishes contain a fine sand and the importance of stirring to mix it back in to avoid the gloss. I have two cans of gloss oil-based varathane but what I WANT is a satin finish. Do you know if it possible to reverse engineer this by adding a particular type of sand if so, what type ??) to "dull it down" before application? Thanks, Colin.

Thanks for making this! I bought an oil based finish by mistake but after watching this I decided to just go ahead and use it instead of returning it for a water based finish. Thanks again! :)

@knecht105

8 жыл бұрын

+certainlyitis Glad this was helpful. Oil base products still have their place though it seems they are slowly getting replaced by the water based finishes ... thanks for taking a moment to comment

Thankyou very much for making this video. I wasn't quite sure if I wanted to use a water based finish on my entrance door or the oil based. I'm impressed with how well the water based finish looked, time it took to dry and being easier to clean up... the water base is my choice of finish.

@knecht105

9 жыл бұрын

john pennisi Yes, water base does have it's advantages ... thanks for commenting John

Hi. Im so happy im seeing this video now. I just put in a bunch of Maple Ply in my new space, in open doorways, and a large opening between rooms with support posts. I was originally planning on painting it all white, but once we got it up, we really loved the look of the raw wood. I was going to do some coats of polyurethane, (oil based), but was really concerned about the deepening/ yellowing effect it has. Im now learning that polycrylic (water-based) will not yellow the wood. The only other thing i’ve learned is, polycrylic, tends to always have a low sheen to it, even if you get the satin, it will still look more like semi-gloss. Is this true? Any insight on this. They now offer a Matte finish polycrylic, do you think that will actually give me the matte finish im looking for?

hi, what is the least gloss natural oil finish please, the most dull? boiled linseed oil? thank you

Thank you for the video, which one would you recommend to be used as a coat for the deck timber floor outside - water-based or oil-based? My concern is the water influence and durability.

Very good question Dennis, and we don't have a facility to perform those kinds of tests so have to rely on manufacturers for that. I am told that the water based products are harder than the oil based, so the water based are less susceptible to wear. All I can go by is some friends who refinished hardwood floors with the water based and after 5 years now, they still look great, but like all things, it depends on where products are used. Thanks for commenting :) Colin

Thanks, Colin I have learned so much from you, your video is about the finish over raw wood but what about over oil-based stain. I have used Water-based poly over oil-based stain it was problematic I did my oak kitchen cabinets and some parts look milky and it changed the color of the stain it did not hold up well the poly started to flack off after a year it took me 60 days to striping and sand all my cabinets and doors and I let the stain dry for 2 weeks before I put the poly on I took my time this is not my first rodeo I have been refinishing furniture for 20 years ONLY USING OIL BASED POLY never had any problem. My husband was talked into the water-based poly when he went to osh I could not convince him oil-based was best tired of arguing with him I used it. This has not aged well for my husband I just hope he has learned something yes you can put water-based poly over oil-based stain you can also run red lights just because you can does not mean you should. As many products are being removed here in California I fear Oil based poly is on its way out I hope not.

Thanks so much for the video. I just made a table and used the exact same water based Varathane. My question is, can I sand the finish after the 3rd coat? I don't like brush strokes and I can't seem to get rid of them unless I sand it, but I don't know if I'm actually getting rid of the finish by sanding. Please help :)

Have you had any experience with water based, oil modified poly finishes? I was gifted a gallon of the min wax version of it and can find no reviews on it at all. Thanks

Would you recommend finishing a wood which has got painting ?

I think I would try a very light sanding with probably something like an 800 or 1000 grit wet sand paper. You will have to go pretty lightly as the the water borne finish is VERY thin, even after 3 coats. You may want to sand a bit, then wipe the surface clean, check it and then maybe sand again wee bit then re-check. For the final finish on the top you could try a foam brush or better quality brush. At this point, all bets are off and we try what ever will work for. Hope this helps Colin

@handsoffanomaly7

Жыл бұрын

Or you could use som 0000 steel wool.

Great video. It would have been nice to clarify that they are polyurethane's. Varathane is simply a brand, and many people are confused about this. nevertheless thanks for the video... I have a question - Im doing my stairs in maple and matching them to my floor (natural high gloss maple hardwood). I will be using a High gloss Oil Based Poly (In order to bring out the 'warmth" seen in my floors). Im wondering if you consider thinning the first coat 50/50 and then reducing the ratio of Thinner to Poly so that the final coat is pure poly. Also, do you recommend sanding between coats (Im presuming yes)?

Can I use the water base to coat bare wood interior kitchen cabinet ? Will I get yellowing result ?

QUESTION ..based on your test is it correct to conclude that the oil goes deeper into the pores of the wood .that would explain why the first coat didn't produce the same lensing effect as the water based did .You add more oil and it begins to out do the water base that sits more on the surface ..?

I have oak front door that was sanding down as good as we can to(probably several coats of clear finish over the years). we have applied 1st coat already which took about 16 hours cause temps dropped a bit from 60-low 70's. Anyhow, that was about 5 days ago. Temp is better about 65-75 (San Diego) and ready for 2nd coat of oli based varathane-spar urethane outdoor gloss finish. Should or do I need to sand between coats or just make sure surface clean and apply next coat?? thanks for your time and happy new year. Dean

@knecht105

10 жыл бұрын

Hi Dean, different people will give you different opinions, but I seldom do much sanding between coats, only if it is really rough or there are large chunks, which you might get in an outdoor environment. I normally would only wet sand before the the last coat. Good luck with your project .... I have done these before, they are a LOT of work.

Where can I buy applicator pad with nylon footy? I contacted local General Finishes retailer who did not know what I was talking about. Cannot find them on internet.

what's the consistency of the water based varathane? I got a can of the gloss finish and it was a paste, not watery at all. not sure if this is normal or not...

I enjoyed your presentation about the oil & water syndrome. Trouble is, you have all that other experience in your head to build upon. I'm developing a high dollar INLAID Pool Table light in walnut. I will need some grain filler to smooth out the wood, before finish is applied, so establishing a direction is needed, now. I was going to use a gel stain to do two things, act as a filler & be a dark translucent stain. Am I dreaming?. It's looking pretty good, now is not the time to foul all my work.

Thanks for sharing.

Hi Colin, question: I always use water-based satin polyurethane. Can you please advise how to get the dust spots smooth on the final coat? Not sure if I should sand or try buffing or what. In addition to the other advantages you mentioned using a water-based product, the main advantage for me is how the smell disappears much faster after it dries. Very happy to have your channel as a resource!

@SegaCDUniverse

Жыл бұрын

Paper bags supposedly, rub it down with a rubber bag lightly

Gave this video a like because of the Bungie/Halo easter egg in the intro. Also, good info on the finishing.

Nice to know Thanks

Thank you for posting this video. I'm working on my first electric guitar build and was curious about your opinion on whether these type of finishes (either water based or oil based) would work well on the project. The body is made of mahogany and the neck is maple. I'm investigating whether traditional furniture-type stains might work just as well as the specialty stains and finishes that luthiers use that are specific to music instruments.

@knecht105

10 жыл бұрын

Hi Jim, would love to see some pics when you are done too :) Not sure I have enough space here, you may need to email me through woodworkweb. > It really depends on the look you want. For coloring, if it were me I would use a dye. With your color combo, again if it were me, I would only be using a clear finish, it's just what I would like. Electrics have traditionally been finished with lacquer and I think you can buy it in a spray cans. I would buy a can and test it first. Check out Stew Mac, I haven't been there for a while, they usually have very good stuff. Personally, I have fallen in love with a topcoat from Germany called Osmo, I love this stuff, easy to use looks great, wears well, eco friendly and has similar re-apply properties as lacquer (and looks at least as good), BUT harder to find over here. Hope this helps ...

@Jafar2002

10 жыл бұрын

WoodWorkWeb It definitely does help - I appreciate the advice! If you don't mind, I may take you up on e-mailing on woodworkweb for further information. And I'd be happy to share photos once finished. Best, Jim

Can you use water based finish over an oil base stain/coat?

what if it's a "water based oil modified" poyurethane? does that mean it's still going to turn my floors yellow?? :(

Hi, I'm just wondering if there is a water-borne Gloss finish & can it also be sprayed??

@knecht105

9 жыл бұрын

The Venus Alkatraz That's a great question, and now that I think about it, I don't believe I have ever seen one. It might have something to do with the propellants they have to use in spray cans, I don't use spray can finishes very often so will have to look more closely at this next time I am at the paint department ... thanks for the question.

Is it better to use a heat lamp or a fan to cure polycrylic or polyurethane? Thanks for the comparison.

@MarzNet256

7 жыл бұрын

Easy Engrave The longer it takes to cure, the more durable the finish will be. Gotta be careful with a fan cause it can blow around dust. Never tried using a heat lamp-but it sounds like it's better than a fan. Also, high humidity will slow the curing process.

Is varathane and Polyurethane the same thing?

Is synthetic clear varnish consider water or oil based

You need to show it up close!.... You hold the board 6 feet away and say "If you look closely, you will see.... etc."- We do not see the finish at all... When you are doing a comparison of finishes, you have to show close ups!

@Lifesituations8000

4 жыл бұрын

😆

Do you sand between code?

I like to use a foam roller to apply oil based poly to larger surfaces (like a tabletop). Leaves no brush marks and applies quickly. Personally, I prefer clear gloss as it tends to be more durable than satin finishes. One problem with water based urethanes is that the water raises the wood grain which produce a rougher surface than oil. They do however not yellow over time like oil based.

@knecht105

7 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the tips and thanks for watching.

Thanks for reply! what do you mean by wet sand?

@knecht105

10 жыл бұрын

Wet sanding is often done at the end of the finishing process to smooth any bumps in the finish. It of done with very fine grits of 800 - 21200. These grits clog up quickly so a tiny bit of water is used to help keep the sanded particles from clogging the sand papers grit. Depending on the grit and the type of finish used, anything from a teaspoon to a tablespoon is normally enough.

Hi, I am recently start to learn staining. I bought a can of oil base stain with me. I tried on maple wood that I had, and it didn't looks good at all. However, when I use it on a soft wood (which I am assuming is pine wood). It actually look a lot better. Is it because Maple is too hard; therefore, it doesn't absorb a lot? Or perhaps, what is the best wood for stain? White Ash, Oak, or Pine? Please help.. Thank you

@knecht105

9 жыл бұрын

Browning Lui Both stain and dye will work on both hardwoods and softwoods, and as you have found, you get different variations of color from them. Everyone has different ideas of what they like best and it's really just a matter of finding the right stain or dye for the wood you are working with. Some paint stores have samples of what some stains look like on certain woods to help you out. The only other thing I can add is to try to test the wood before you apply a coat to see if you like. It sounds like you are doing just fine with figuring out the best way to color for the way you like it.

@lokyinphotography

9 жыл бұрын

WoodWorkWeb Thank you so much. I'll keep trying. =)

Would the water based finish be ideal for finishing a flat black guitar?

@knecht105

10 жыл бұрын

hmmm, I get asked this question quite a bit, and to be honest the type of finish kind of depends on the value of the guitar. It it's an expensive guitar I really recommend a proper finish like lacquer to help the guitar hold it's value. If it's not a real valuable guitar, sure, water based finishes are fine, but I also suggest having a look at Stewart MacDonald website to see what they suggest. Always good to get a few opinions. Hope this helps :)

I read that if you want to use the latex water based polycrilic on raw wood to seal, you should spray fine mist of water on it, wait for the grain to raise, then sand lightly, dust and apply the poly..so as to prevent the wood grain from raising if moisture gets to it...is that something you've done? If not what would you recommend, it will be a linen cabinet in bathroom. thx.

@knecht105

9 жыл бұрын

Sherry H Anytime I have to finish woodwork that is going to be in a moist environment, like a bathroom, I pay very close attention to what the manufacturers of the product I am using say about using in those conditions. For something like this, I would definitely either check with the manufacturer or check out their website for info. You are doing the right thing by finding out ahead of time ... this is a job you don't want to have to re-do. Good luck with your project Sherry

@247expresso

9 жыл бұрын

THANKS!

can you spray the these kind of wood finish?

@knecht105

10 жыл бұрын

Yes, many of these you can, but best to check before purchasing.

Accidentally did one coat water based and one oil based. Should i strip it off? Or go ahead and add third coat oil based?

@dredank

4 жыл бұрын

Looked great with the water based. Now I noticed it a little more yellow with this oil based on top

This is very nice, but I what about endurance of the product. What will both products look like after 3 years of floor traffic.?

could you use a polyurethane finish on painted wood? and what about a crackled paint effect? could I use anything on top of that that would look very shiny and would protect it ?

@knecht105

10 жыл бұрын

You can you poly on some painted woods, you will need to check what the previous paint is. That crackle effect is a special paint, and to be honest I have never used it but the last time I looked at it, which was a few years ago, it was a 2 part paint but that may have changed now, sorry, just don't know much about crackle.

@kadsaidi1665

10 жыл бұрын

oh thank you, I will continue my research and I if I decide to try I will let you know how it went! thanks for your videos again

I'm making a DIY project. Will it be okay to stain a pine board with a water-based stain, go over it with an oil-based sharpie paint pen, and then cover the entire project with a spray on, water-based varathane coat?

@MarzNet256

7 жыл бұрын

Jenna R Not a good idea to mix oil and water based finishes.

IS there an outside temp too hot or too humid to stain and to coat a large dining table top outside?

@knecht105

9 жыл бұрын

Linda Wheeler Hi Linda, in general terms, yes there is ... well for humidity, not really for heat, but they often go hand in hand. To be honest, it really depends on what finish you are using, it's a really good idea to check the directions or a website for specific info ... but normally anything over 80% humidity, many things can take so long to dry that they start collecting little bits of dust etc ... which can make them a bear to get a nice finish on, and some products may not seem to harden properly, I have heard from others. Hope this helps .... Colin

Thanks!

@knecht105

9 жыл бұрын

Brian S NP ... thank you

Can you cut water based poly for smoother flow when applying? I do not like how fast water based poly dries and on large projects.

@knecht105

9 жыл бұрын

Acme Rigging To be honest I have never cut any water based products so I have 2 answers, first, it probably depends on the brand, so you can others probably not, and even the ones you can, I expect the amount you can cut would be minimal like maybe 15% at the most. I know that is not the answer you are looking for, but here is the best solution ... call the manufacturer, I have found most of them quite willing to give you info, in fact I always leave the conversations much wiser. That is really the best thing to do.

Thank you

@knecht105

5 жыл бұрын

You're Welcome!

I wonder what varnishing with both satin and gloss would look like as an effect...

@knecht105

10 жыл бұрын

Good question, but and here's what I can tell you. If you don't stir sating varnish, before you use it, you will end up with a glossy finish. The reason is, stain varnish contains very fine ground sand, which is what gives it the satin look. I couldn't believe it the first time I heard that, it sounds to weird but it's true.

Good video. However, to be more relevant, more wood species should be taken into consideration. For example, cherry and walnut will look better with oil finishes. The water finishes will make them look dull.

Not sure why people are against yellowing. To me it gives color and warms up the would.

What about clear coats for walls??

i need the oil for my project, thanks

@knecht105

6 жыл бұрын

You're Welcome!

I like the water based better ~ the oil looked a little too yellow for my liking.

I noticed you waited 24 hrs to wait between coats, even for the Water based. What are the consequences, if any if someone decided to recoat after say 3-4 hours with the water based varathane?

@knecht105

9 жыл бұрын

Beyond Limits Productions I have done up to 3 coats of water base in single day, it really depends on the humidity and the temperature. To be honest, I did this video a couple of years ago and don't remember why I waited 24 hours, except some times I have other things to do, so just as easy to do it the next day. If you re-coat to early, what can happen is the first coat might still be a bit damp and can lift in areas when applying the next coat, this makes the final finish quite rough after it dries. Luckily, with water based this is easy to fix, a bit of light sanding and another coat and it most cases is fine.

is water based less toxic?

@ronniep9272

Жыл бұрын

yes!

Can you talk about Epoxy Resin finish?

@knecht105

9 жыл бұрын

CarlWong510 What is it you would like to know about them Carl?

@CarlWong510

9 жыл бұрын

I'm thinking of building a furniture and I want my furniture to be durable, so I though I should look into Epoxy resin. Can I apply it into some frequently used furniture especially dining table? By the way, I'm new to woodworking.

@knecht105

9 жыл бұрын

CarlWong510 You might want to investigate some other finishes as well Carl, even for table tops. Resin finishes are great for some things, and very hard. The problem with them is if something goes wrong and the finish is not perfect, they can be VERY hard to remove and re-finish. I personally have been using a couple of German products Osmo and Saicos, both of which are environmentally friendly, easy to work with and give the kind of finish I am looking for in my woodworking. Not glossy, but still a bit of a sheen so you can still see the grain of the wood. Both these products are used for flooring so for furniture they work just great. I would encourage you to look at a few different options before making a final decision and maybe even trying different ones. You may be absolutely correct the Resin finish is best for what you do, just nice to know there isn't something that is easier to use and still gives you what you want. Hope this helps ..

I believe the oil will protect the wood better because it seals the water doesn't because it sits on top. I will use oil😊

@SwearingenTurnings

6 жыл бұрын

No, a barrier is a barrier. Where they sit doesn't affect the ability to seal. One may seal better than the other, but not by virtue of *where* they are.

@josephefasciani7343

5 жыл бұрын

I'm 76, a journeyman carpenter, 56 yrs doing wood-finishing of all types & most woods. At my age I've seen new types of products come & pass from the scene, but traditional oil-based varnish and other non-plastic types have endured. Problem with water-based is they're water-based. It's unlikely they'll penetrate wood fibers the same way oil base does: this is why oil base finishes generally give what we call 'life' to wood and last longer. And NEVER forget: water-based finish will always raise the gran just slightly which does not occur with oil-based ones. Many hardwoods contain natural oils & resins which are very resistant to water penetration, but will allow oil bases to merge with them. Finally, an oil-based finish has a molecular structure that allows it to resist not only water, but to exclude other substances unless they recognise them as being fairly similar. I hope this helps.

If you have time and can reply to my comment, I'd be so very grateful. I've began taking my wood projects into more of a crafting direction. Using small wood cookies to make personalized key chain trinkets. Therefore, I'm using paint to paint designs on the wood, and then wish to use a protective layer over said paint as a finish to hopefully be more scratch resistant, and protect the pain job undeneath. I've tried both an oil gloss varathane and a satin water based varathane. I truly wish I'd seen this video sooner, as I've already painted one with the oil based, and definitely see the yellowing you speak of, I'm very saddened by that. :( As for the water based satin, it didnt seem to protect the art much even after 4 coats. It was still scratchable. I'm at a loss as to what is best for these paint on wood projects to have a slight shine, but more so just be very hard and as scratch resistant as possible. Along with how to coat without leaving brush lines. I'm using very soft brushes, but some lines still tend to come through. I'm also unsure about the sanding in between coats, as I can not sand due to the slight raise of the paint in some areas on the project. You see my dilemma. Any advice, any info would be so much appreciated. Any thoughts on what products I should be using, what brushes, If I should be mixing the varathane with mineral spirits....Water based or oil...Or perhaps I should be using clear casting resin / liquid glass / epoxy to coat? I dont know! >. Johanna

@knecht105

8 жыл бұрын

+Fahrdaris Not sure what paint you are using, but I would start by using a high quality paint, prossibly something like an automotive paint. It's expensive but will probably save you a few steps as I probably does not need to be top coated. If you can find an autobody shop that will sell you smaller portions of paint to test, that is what I would be trying. Part of the scratching you are seeing could also be the wood, depending on what wood you are using. I think if you start off with a good quality hardwood, then paint it with the best quality paint you can find, that alone should do a lot for you. Hope this helps

@Fahrdaris

8 жыл бұрын

It does, thank you so much for the reply. :)

@Fahrdaris

8 жыл бұрын

I was using acrylic paints* I'm using a mix of beach wood and soft wood. But the soft wood is proving problematic, regardless of varathane. I should have assumed as much. So hard wood it is for these projects. Is it a bad idea to use both satin and gloss varathane on the same item? And will a satin 1st coat, keep it from yellowing with the gloss varathane as top coats? Or is it the varathane itself that yellows? Thanks!

@knecht105

8 жыл бұрын

I think if you can get a better quality paint, you might be able to skip the varathane step, but not sure your situation so acrylics may be an only option. In terms of coating, the water based varathanes are the hardest, but I could take 4 or 5 coats to get the protection you need. The good news is it drys much quicker than the oil based varnishes and doesn't yellow. It should not be problem mixing satin and gloss, but did you know that all satin varathane is ... is gloss varathane with a fine sand mixed into it, which is why you need to stir it often, to keep the sand suspended in the liquid, otherwise it settles and becomes glossy. Have you tried dipping them into the varathane?

@Fahrdaris

8 жыл бұрын

I watched your video, and thus learned of the sand business. :) Very interesting. :) I did not know that beforehand. I will definitely be going to grab some water based high gloss tomorrow. I assumed oil was better, but still learning. And yes, I considered the dipping, but was unsure. I may try on a wood cookie without any art on it, and see how it turns out, do some testing. :) Thanks so much for the info! It has truly been a help! I'll be viewing your other vids, as they appear to be very educational. :) Thanks again! Regards, Johanna

I use a water based semi gloss because it is low odor.

Damn, I definitely want your opinion on my videos.

Best way to apply is with a new large, firm painters sponge with a woman's new nylon over it. Won't leave any fuzz bristles, just a smooth-as-glass finish.

your pointing to the water side and calling it the oil side

@yosoydpfknr2855

6 жыл бұрын

Hahahaha right

I love the intro...lol.

I prefer water based finishing for my teak wood furniture

You get a like just for that opening theme to play.

@knecht105

4 жыл бұрын

Thank You!

You didn't mention what happens over time. My understanding is that the oil base will darken more over time. That's why I watched this...

Oh, you mixed up water with oil after 3 coats. I got confused.

The water-based Varathane is the worst stuff I've ever worked with. I might as well have put shaving cream on my oak door, that's how many bubbles I got in it. It was applied according to directions.

ive found both of these products in a spraycan

Please help. I've made a terrible mistake. Ive used an oil based polyurethane clear coat on old, VERY porous blonde timber, perhaps Victorian Ash. I thought clear would not make the timber darker, but I fear it has. Ive been using large amount of turps, medium grain steel wool and kitchen paper to try and remove it before it dries. Yes, I know I should have used a filler first. I'm an idiot. Have I ruined it?

@knecht105

9 жыл бұрын

phoenixrisen1970 It's hard to tell with out seeing, but I would bet you have not ruined it. I am not sure what you are working on or a lot of the detail, but if you are unhappy with what you just did, hopefully the turps and some steel wool is taking it back off before it dries, unfortunately there is no easy way of doing this that I know of and it's messy, as you well know by now. I would keep working on it until you feel you have as much off as you can get, then just leave it if you can for a couple of day (hopefully it is not a floor you need to walk on) ... then re-asses what you want to do and what results you want to achieve. Sorry, I can't be of much more help than that right now.

@phoenixrisen1970

9 жыл бұрын

WoodWorkWeb You're very kind to reply so quickly. It's a 150 y/o draughtman's table top. I'm scrubbing like a maniac. Thanks again for your response and cheers from Australia.

@knecht105

9 жыл бұрын

WoodWorkWeb All the best with ... let me know how it goes :)

talking varnishes vs .eurothanes ? many her3e think varnish is same as eurothane and poly. but ....

can you please show close-up shots with good lighting? we can’t see what you are trying to point out. you keep saying “if you look closely...” i would love to!

Wtf halo music intro

chatoyance.

Great video thanks so much for the info. Also I don't know who needs this, but I'd like to bless anyone since you've blessed me. Jesus christ loves you and gave his life on the cross so we could live and have a relationship with god. All we have to do is recognize our sins and ask for forgiveness and believe in jesus christ his son.

I'm sorry. Water based products will make your project look like plastic, i.e. fake wood. Oil based has leaves a slight amber finish like real wood should look like. Want to ruin your hard work just use one of those crappy water based products.

@rendermatt

9 жыл бұрын

"You can get a natural-looking effect with any finish -- including varnish, shellac and lacquer -- as long as you don't build it up more than a few coats and you rub out the dried film with steel wool." "The plastic look that's sometimes ascribed to polyurethane and catalyzed lacquers has more to do with the incorrect application of these finishes than it does with the finishes themselves. On open-pored woods (plainsawn ash or oak, for example) the application of thick varnish and lacquer can result in a soupy look on the surface. This is a consequence of the finish film bridging across the open pores rather than flowing into them. By thinning these finishes you can achieve more attractive results. My favorite method to apply oil-based polyurethane is to thin the finish 50% with mineral spirits and wipe it on." www.finewoodworking.com/toolguide/articles/selecting-a-finish.aspx

@bauler

9 жыл бұрын

I'll try that next time. Still like the look of oil finish over water based. I've looked at some samples of professionally done woods, still looked like plastic. But thanks for the advice.

@rendermatt

9 жыл бұрын

No problem, I don't have much experience other than a few amateur oil based poly projects, but that site seemed knowledgeable.

@knecht105

9 жыл бұрын

logos2600 Bill Bauler I too used a couple of the water based products and at first didn't like them, then I did some side by side tests comparing sheen and masking of wood-figure and was personally surprised how similar they were, in fact the water based was better in some cases ... at least for the ones I tested. I still rarely use water based finishes, but I will concede they do have their place ... but that's one of the beauties of woodworking, lots of choices depending on peoples tastes and requirements. Great topic guys ... appreciate you bringing it up and discussing it .. Colin

@bauler

9 жыл бұрын

WoodWorkWeb So you used different brands? I recently seen a oak threshold with a dark stain covered with a water based product from General. Looked pretty good. I'm always open to try new things. Thanks for the info.

This guy is amateur hour.