This color filling process seems ridiculously time consuming and rather expensive. Better results can be achieved in a fraction of the time and at a cost of pennies for paint easily purchased at your local paint and hardware store. You even have application tools and supplies at your finger tips lying around your shop that are completely free. The process about to be described I have used for more than 35 years in the engraving industry. It works on both laser & rotary engraved substrates (ie; acrylic, finished wood, brass, aluminum and engraving plastic sheet stock). It should work to color fill just about any flat coated substrate that can be engraved at a minimum depth of .010" and deeper. Here is how...... Supplies List: 1) Oil Base Paint (any color or mix assorted colored paints for a custom color pallet). 2) Disposable Foam Paint Brush (1" or 2" width). 3) Index Cards 3.5" x 5" (any thick card stock will do). 4) Mineral Spirits (minimal cost) or Kerosene (even more inexpensive). 5) An Old Phone Book (white or yellow pages either works great). 6) Disposable Rubber Gloves (optional if you don't mind getting your hands a little dirty). Color Filling Process: (the easy, fast and inexpensive way) 1) Engrave substrate at a minimum depth of .010". 2) Brush on oil based paint over the engraved area with enough paint to fill the engraved cavity. 3) Use an index card to scrape off the excess paint from the top of the substrate so there is only a thin film of wet paint left on the top of the substrate. Might take a couple of swipes and index cards depending how thick you applied the paint. 4) Wait an approximate 20-30 minutes for the remaining paint film to slightly dry and become a little tacky to the touch. 5) Grab that good old free phone book that's been lying around, seldom used and never seems to get tossed into the recycle bin. Now apply mineral spirits to an entire page. Get it nice and wet so the solvent soaks down through a few pages below. Tare off and discard the first page as it will be too wet to use and will most likely remove paint from the engraving that you want to remain filled into the engraved substrate. The second, third and fourth pages will be the pages you want and should be be saturated with just the right amount of solvent to remove the tacky paint film from the top of the substrate but not the color filled engraving. 6) Rub the painted side of the engraved surface across the phone book a few time taring away dirty used pages as you go until all the paint film is completely gone from the substrate, (repeat the process for multiple engraved items). You will be amazed by the instant results. In a matter of seconds you will be holding a beautiful professionally engraved product color filled to perfection in your hand. A product that was color filled in a fraction of the time as described in this video and at a cost of only a few cents to create. 7) Allow a few hours for the color filled paint to completely dry. Overnight is a good rule to follow. If after the drying time has been completed and there is still some paint residue on top of the substrate dampen a soft non abrasive cloth with small amount of mineral spirits and wipe the substrate completely clean by hand. 8) Kick back and relax. Enjoy a little "Me" time over your competition who is still scrubbing away on a product of poor quality, and in this engravers opinion much like the finished product that was shown in this video. Opinions/Rants/Advise: Remember just because an Engraving Industry Supplier claims their product and technique works doesn't always mean that it actually is the best and only way to do things. With several decades of experience I have found that only a handful of industry suppliers actually know how to engrave and can not offer sound advise on the engraving process and proper techniques. This is learned by years of experience and with a daily "hands on" approach. It is not defined by the products someone is trying to sell to you because they say you need them. Especially if that product is one that is consumable in nature (ie; specially formulated paints, sprays, application tools, masking films, cadgets and assorted "do-hickey's). Sometimes the easiest and best ways are not found or sold within the Engraving Industry what so ever. Always try to remain open minded and listen to other peoples ways for doing things. It never hurts to experiment with your own ideas either. Develop processes that work well for you. Allow for time to become a master at your craft. Speak often with other Engraves and like minded business people. Most engraves love to share their ideas and creative experiences. You will find that most welcome your opinions also. I've met many engravers over the years and most are genuine, good, honest and hard working people. If you think you already know everything there is to know in this industry I'm sorry to say that you are sadly mistaken. There is no time limit in furthering ones education. Power and great success is often gained through shared knowledge. So I hope this nickle's worth of free advise is helpful to you and within your business. Give this process a try and see for yourself. I'm confident you will benefit from the results. "Great engraving will remain long after its creator". So engrave on ye good people of the earth.......Cheers!!!

@ahmedkhaled365

6 жыл бұрын

Thanks man that was helpful

@christinebolstad8595

6 жыл бұрын

Good suggestions

@baselsalam

5 жыл бұрын

Paper mask seems the easiest?

@Ibrahim-ut6pn

5 жыл бұрын

i am also a professional engraver specialising in jewellery. i always had trouble filling thin lines that were shallow this methos of yours sounds great

@leahmiller8705

4 жыл бұрын

This is exactly what I was looking for!!

Nice, my daughter will love this!

Great video. Thank you.

Great video. Right to the point

Can you give any advice on how to ink fill an engraved silicone piece? What sort of ink / paint would you recommend?

Ruth, I have not tried that, but it certainly seems feasible. Be sure the color fill is completely dry before layering. Kathryn

Hello. Thanks for the video. I have a question. All that scrubbing on the acrylic doesnt scratch the piece at all? Everytime I deal with acrylic, if you breathe the wrong way, a scratch shows up. Thanks again.

Great video

If I wanted to engrave on multiple layers of acrylic and then glue them together for a 3-dimensional effect, could I use this product on the inside layers and still glue them together when dry?

What type on paint did You use?

Where do I purchase the colour fill or Stone Fill and can I use it on glasses

That's very cool, excited to try it! Can I ask, did you laser cut the bevels on your pieces? if so how do you do that? is there a special attachment or something?

@LaserUniversity

8 жыл бұрын

+Travis Barton I apologize for the delay. I just saw this comment right now. If you are referring to the wood, I rastered then edge all the way around. For the acrylic, that is how the piece comes to us.

Hello what name of color you use. I try To paint with 2k the color doesn’t come out

Where did you find the pro color fill paint for acrylic? Is that the brand name?

what did you use to color fill? on the wood did you sand it before hand so the paint wouldn't get into the grain? what is the masking you used? will regular blue tape work just as well?

@LaserUniversity

6 жыл бұрын

In some cases yes, but you need to be careful with certain tapes as they could hold in them various materials that could be poisonous to you and very damaging to your laser (such as PVC for example). To color fill, depending on the substrate, you could use a variety of masking materials. For wood, in which you specifically asked about, if it is a finished wood w/ lacquer coating you could use a paper mask or even the LiquaMASK, both are available on our www.jpplus.com website. We also carry a red and green mask which are generally used for sandblasting, but work great with lasers as well. The green being more pliable and can wrap around something like a wine glass and the red being a little more rigid. This particular video our paper mask was used. Here is a link to the video on how to use the LiquaMASK kzread.info/dash/bejne/gHelutZqlparc9o.html - Hope this helps.

@treiz666

6 жыл бұрын

is there anything you would suggest for a rougher substrate like an unfinished wood?

Hello, the mask is similar to masking tape with one very important difference.....the masking is LOW tack. If regular masking tape were to be used, the heat of the laser would melt the adhesive and the tacky residue would stick to your substrate. The paper masking can be found at LaserBits[dot]com under Laser Supplies in the left column, then click on Masking Materials. Kathryn

what paint do you use

For the wood that wasn't masked, was it pre-finished before engraving to prevent the color from absorbing into the wood grain?

@LaserUniversity

9 жыл бұрын

Mike, yes you need to have a coated wood.

Hi! Is this paper mask same as the transfer tape used for vinyl?

@LaserUniversity

6 жыл бұрын

Yes same paper mask

You should be able to leave the acrylic's protective film on white engraving, then remove area for color fill, then once dry remove excess protective film.

@LaserUniversity

10 жыл бұрын

John, do NOT ever leave the film on the acrylic that comes with it. It is not laser safe and out-gases hazardous fumes. It is not meant to be used as a masking material.

can i use a bitmap file from photograv on photoshop to edit the shadows and highlights?

@LaserUniversity

8 жыл бұрын

+gerardo quijada You should always edit your images first then process through PhotoGrav second.

What did use for the paper mask?

How do you prevent pigment bleed into porus pieces such as bamboo and leather? We have tried many products including the color fill but have had no good results.

@LaserUniversity

9 жыл бұрын

You would need to use a sealer first like this one: www.laserbits.com/laser-supplies/laserbits-pro-color-fill-sealer/sus-115-laserbits-pro-sealer-4oz.html

I like how the paper mask eliminated the usual surface scorch marks. Is the paper mask material just very wide normal (crepe paper) masking tape?

@SherylLynn333

3 жыл бұрын

The paper mask is paper transfer tape. I get mine at Expressions Vinyl

Does this color fill work on etched glass?

@LaserUniversity

8 жыл бұрын

+Doreen Rodriguez This particular color fill is for acrylic and wood only, but we do have a color fill that will work on glass. It is called Stone Fill and it works on glass, crystal, ceramic tile, stone, marble and granite. Here is the video: kzread.info/dash/bejne/faGIps-Reba3o7g.html and you can purchase it here: www.laserbits.com/laser-supplies/laserbits-stone-color-fills.html

Perhaps I missed it but can you explain what liquid you are using to clean the excess color fill? Is is alcohol? Water? -Thanks!

@LaserUniversity

9 жыл бұрын

MB Huff Just water!

@scaboodyisaGTlover

8 жыл бұрын

+LaserUniversity I use this method, but instead of water I use Novus #2 Fine Scratch Remover Polish. It works great with every minimal effort. One note: The polish only works with acrylic paint.

@LaserUniversity

8 жыл бұрын

Rick Shaner Using Novus is a great idea!

I would like to know more about how you engraved on the acrylic

@SherylLynn333

3 жыл бұрын

Im not sure how other people engrave on acrylic, but I have a glowforge and it engraves, cuts, and scores on just about anything

Thank you! The paint for acrylic & wood is different than the paint used for glass, marble, granite & stone. Both products are available from LaserBits[dot]com - I tried to give you the links for both products here but KZreads bans links in the comment box. You can also subscribe to LaserU[dot]com to learn more - or email order1@laserbits[dot]com or call 800.733.7705 to request a free 7-day trial for to ask questions. Kathryn

Where do you get the ColorFill?

@LaserUniversity

10 жыл бұрын

William, you can get color fill at LaserBits[dot]com - click on Laser Supplies in the left column, then click on LaserBits Pro Color Fill & Sealer. Kathryn

you should try wd40 for the whipping off process

That looks like hard work. Not suitable for mass production.

@LaserUniversity

9 жыл бұрын

Berlin, the process is actually quite easy. We concluded a chat on Facebook all about it just minutes ago! Here is the chat: facebook.com/LaserBitsLaserUniversity/photos/a.397301561365.180453.241921291365/10152421514661366/?type=1&theater

I used the laser tape on a piece of acrylic to engrave. It worked nicely, but when I pulled up the tape, there's a green residue from the tape. I've tried everything to get it up, but nothing gets it up.

@LaserUniversity

8 жыл бұрын

+Tyler Smith Are you using our green laser tape? Why are you using the laser tape instead of a paper mask?

@tooler82

8 жыл бұрын

+LaserUniversity I thought that's what the laser tape was for.

@LaserUniversity

8 жыл бұрын

+Tyler Smith The green laser tape is better designed for glass, crystal, stone, marble, granite, etc. when the piece is engraved and then sandblasted. A better product for acrylic and wood, when color filling would be either the paper mask (as shown in this video) or our LiquaMASK: kzread.info/dash/bejne/gHelutZqlparc9o.html - you can see the product purchase info on our LaserBits.com website. Paper mask: www.laserbits.com/laser-supplies/masking-materials.html and LiquaMASK: www.laserbits.com/laser-supplies/liquamask.html

Ruth, I have not tried that, but it certainly seems feasible. Be sure the color fill is completely dry before layering. Kathryn