That first quickdraw was not made out of dyneema as dyneema can't be dyed. You can recognize dyneema (most of the time) as the white quickdraw with the thin red stripe 😁

@drevil8519

2 жыл бұрын

Yep. Even if dyneema is sleeved you'll see the white fibres

@ericc8785

2 жыл бұрын

There's plenty of dyed dyneema in sailing. Dyneema not sensitive to UV though.

@Govanification

Жыл бұрын

That QD is the previous gen yellow Black Diamond positron dogbone, and it's all nylon. Using a slightly longer quickdraw might have been better since the rubbing would have been in the multiple-layered middle section instead of pinching the single nylon layer between sharp rock and the bottom carabiner.

@iacamigevaerd376

Жыл бұрын

@@ericc8785 I have never seen any, what are you referring to?

@kathrynroberts2246

Жыл бұрын

Amsteel, arguably the most famous dyneema product comes in a range of colors from black to yellow.

I have officially watched this intro twice now. I'll let you know when it's my 3rd time haha

@Govanification

Жыл бұрын

Put it on your driving-to-the-crag stoke playlist

The device you are referring to is the Edelrid* Ohm. It works kinda like a half-baked grigri and adds a ton of friction when it gets "yanked up" when a climber falls. As long as you don't pull slack too aggressively, it shouldn't lock up and works a charm. Takes a bit of practice but worth if your climber is more than 40 lbs heavier than your belayer. As a lightweight dude it is nice not getting pulled up into the first draw all the time.

@chaosengine4597

2 жыл бұрын

Jep. Exactly. The E D E L R I D Ohm, not the Eldreid :) just for those of you that might try to find it on the Interwebs.

@MattWestwick

2 жыл бұрын

​@@chaosengine4597 Let it be nown I was speling be chapagnion

@chaosengine4597

2 жыл бұрын

@@MattWestwick I was referring to what was said in the video more than to your small typo :)

@chaosengine4597

2 жыл бұрын

@Cynthia Jendlebee sorry, but I have to write this: I also prefer sexual partners over sandbags. I‘ll let myself out.

BTW, the climber got his knee stuck, not the hand. And yes, check out the full video. It's hilarious.

@NiTr091

Ай бұрын

Why was he being sick?

That belay-glasses shot was nightmare fuel.

First confirmed brownpoint, LMAO And the gagging, lol

welcome back daddy

I love that Gavin made it into your 🔥 rap

Josh, your dancing and singing skills are truly amazing. 0:50

How has he not seen the Boogie till you poop video?? It’s his knee that gets stuck, after a hard night of partying in Vegas. Which is why he is so nauseous.

@stevenhooke2740

2 жыл бұрын

He's also the same guy who chopped the bolt on Cerro Torre

@johng5185

2 жыл бұрын

You can find tho whole story on the enormocast podcast.

@ragreenburg

2 жыл бұрын

I'm pretty sure that happened in Squamish, so not a hard night in Vegas, a hard night in Squamish.

Boggie till you poop. Highly recommend watching the full video to those who haven't seen it

6:07 Lesson learned: if you're gonna puke, point your mouth in the crack where your knee is jammed, a surefire way to reduce friction and PRESTO, you'll be released in no time at all 😜

Besides the Edelrid Ohm, there is a second device for belying heavier climbers: the BAUR Zorro. With the Baur Zorro, you can belay someone who is up to double your weight. It has many more advantages over the Ohm like it won't lock up if you pull the rope fast; it works instantly (no flip over before breaking); softer catch; dynamic belaying. Using, testing and teaching both for years and the Zorro is in my opinion the far better device. One drawback: It is not build by a multimillion-dollar company with a huge marketing department, but was invented by a single engineer who is also marketing and sales in one person.

@SamWhitlock

2 жыл бұрын

Where can one buy this? All I find is the German site, but no shop or kickstarter

@belaygear8889

2 жыл бұрын

@@SamWhitlock hmmm ... seems my first answer didn't pass. You can buy it on page of the inventor (unfortunatly only available in german).

This is how I learned english, well done. (English was/is first language)

Best intro, you’re keepin MC’s lookin out.

Best intro ever, some mad skills

Nice to see a climbing fails video! Keep it up! :)

I was climbing with a couple of people in Joshua Tree a long time ago and we were doing a climb that had a 3-ish foot roof. One of the people lost their footing at the lip of the roof and their wrist slotted into a wedge perfectly and couldn't get it out. They were low enough that I could work my way up such that they could partially stand on my shoulders to take the weight off but not free their wrist. The other person was able run around the back side, set up a 3-1 and send down a rope they could clip into their harness.

Love the intro rap

Cheap tree guard is a section of garden hose. Also works in a pinch as a rub guard for sharp edges. Not perfect but it works well enough.

The more vidoes like this I see the more relaxed I feel when I'm climbing.

Oh shit, that intro was great, bro. Keep them coming and always wear a helmet. Cheers!

Cool video! Thank you , for your job 👍💪

Best into ever

The intro was absolutely hilarious

Also, the redundancy of that last anchor...would be easy with rubbing for catastrophic failure. Terrifying anchor

First! Nice song ;)

12:31 climber at Devils Lake,Wisconsin fell from his extention being cut on the rock. Unshure if he had any knots. It was a nylon sling I think.

dude, nailed it with the song @BetaClimbers

The dry heaving clip was so hilarious sounding…idk how you weren’t laughing

🤣 . Great video. Excellent rap.

Great channel! You do things I would never do (fear of falling-not heights-but falling). Nevertheless, it’s fascinating to see the fails and the good climbs as well. Thanks for sharing; your wife should definitely let you keep producing videos. Chores, maybe a few. 😉

@drebk

Жыл бұрын

Fear of falling, not heights? So... you are constantly afraid of falling... even when you are just walking down the street? I guess if we are being technical, I have a fear of stopping suddenly after a long fall from heights. Not the heights or act of falling. Just the sudden stop at the end

The eldrid?! The eldrirserde? E D E L R I D.... EH-DEL-RID

@BetaClimbers

2 жыл бұрын

You should hear me say pretzel instead of petzl 😂

@ArinaThomsen

2 жыл бұрын

I cannot say it right either, lol

@provuksmc6619

2 жыл бұрын

With the thickest german accent: Sssis is not äccseptable!

@provuksmc6619

2 жыл бұрын

@@ArinaThomsen Edelrid And 40 kgs of extra Friction

Edelrid Ohm is a must - I use it whenever catching someone heavier than me. Easy to use and makes a huge difference

Seeing at anchor at 12:00 reminded me of the time my buddy and I simul rappelled using a single sling…slung around a tree…and one locking carabiner…no knots. No backup anything. Perfect. A prime example of not knowing enough to be safe, but know just enough to kill yourself.

등반중 안전장비 필수죠~~ 👍

My main experience with dyneema is fishing line. It cuts very easily on rock, shell, and some types of wood. Nylon line is the most abrasive resistant and best used if you know your line will be rubbing on something rough or sharp. When I started studying ropes I was surprised to see the perception of dyneema being abrasive resistant. I would never let it rub up against rock.

I just started lead climbing, and a belay video would help tremendously! It feels way more involved then actually climbing. Please and Thank you!

@benioneill8812

2 жыл бұрын

Hey there! Meanwhile consider checking the playlist Belaying Masterclass on the channel Hard is Easy - the best and most complete info I've found on belaying, plus Ben is awesome ^^

Fun intro!

I usually love awful things but this intro was hard to handle. Still thumbed up though you rule stay cool dude

@BetaClimbers

2 жыл бұрын

Yeah rap isn’t for everyone I know. Must be a classical Jazz guy huh 😂

@KalebSchumaker

2 жыл бұрын

@@BetaClimbers honestly dude I've been watching this channel since before I even climbed and have been recently leading multi pitch routes. It's seriously great content and makes me want to get out. Thank you (minus the intro ofc)

@BetaClimbers

2 жыл бұрын

@@KalebSchumaker appreciate it 🤣

@Nerudah

2 жыл бұрын

@@BetaClimbers I love rap. This intro tho'..not so much.. :/

@BetaClimbers

2 жыл бұрын

@@Nerudah yeah not everyone’s into old school rap 🤣

Why is that dude looking up every time the other dude is about to puke? Look down fool, you have a cap on that protects you from his vomit ;)

The intro rap sounds like Reilly Reid’s rap

Fire beats homie

The Edelrid Ohm helps with extra friction but only when you fall. Pulling up rope is no problem. It makes a world of difference. It's a bit on the heavy side but as you use it on the first bolt, not a real issue.

Was that a one-point anchor? Seems safe.

OMFG 😅🤣 can’t stop laughing @6:06

We're using the Ohm whan climbing with my wife which is almost half of my weight, but the truth is, you have to be skilled to prevent the rope from locking in it while giving a slack. Also, when to bolts aren't very straight and goes more zig-zag, it happened to me that it gave so much friction that it was almost impossible to be rappeled down.

what you refere to (5min) is a OHM from Edelrid. it works realy good. i use it whit my daughter she is 43kg and im 88kg. its e bit slow as she lower me daown but no probblem to clip the quic drows

I imagine Josh climbing out of his studio and ending up in pee wees playhouse

I bought an Ohm device and tested it with my 11 year old daughter lead belaying me. I took a good sized test whipper and it worked great! She didn't even get pulled up at all.

@BetaClimbers

2 жыл бұрын

Oh awesome! I’ll have to try one out.

@ryenschimerman2127

Жыл бұрын

Yeah, I've been playing with one as well. Just keep in mind that the Ohm is only good up to 80lbs, so I was still able to suck my wife up to the first bolt (10ft), on what should have been a 15' lead fall. It turned into a 30' fall and we were both forced into more butt play than either of us signed up for in our vows. I've added a 25lb Rogue sand kettle bag hitched through the back belt of her harness, bringing us into speck on the Ohm. Outside I tether her with a bit of dynamic cord if possible, or anchor her to the gear bag.

What about highlines that get left up for a year??? UV seems OK on them??

It looks to me like the girl that's flying away from the wall around 08:40 is just tight in from the wrong end. In my gyms (Sweden) the top rope overhang walls are set-up in such a way that you unclip on your way up and put the clips back in on the way down (you can't unclip the anchor). It also looks in the video like the belayer's rope goes directly to the first quick-draw instead of the anchor so that should be the climbers end.

Next big hit - Rappin on Rappin. Music video filmed entirely on rappel.

Dyneema doesn't wear out in the sun as fast as people describe it. Actually, while UV radiation is high energy, it can't really penetrate deep into the material. So it might harm the surface of a material when exposed over a long period of time, but it is not significant enough to make a difference in a materials strength in any regular use case. If you want the best of both worlds, get a Dyneema kevlar material mix. All my slings are made from this mix. Don't know if they specifically make quickdraws with it but you can alwaya make your own extendable alpine quickdraws.

thanks BC for promoting wearing socks while climbing

Its called the Edelrid Ohm device. It is GREAT. Like, Tony the Tiger great. I have two partners, one is 70 LB heavier, the other is 60 LB lighter.

BEST INTRO EVER ON KZread

No disrespect, but the guy who was helping the dude who shit his pants was Cedar Wright. I'm pretty sure he knows what he's doing.

8:35 we call that "free snaking" when you TR an overhang on the wrong end of the rope (the end NOT through the draws). That clip was taken at Vertical World in Seattle btw, and I've seen it happen a lot at crags too.

7:10 i think theres a video of Magnus and Adam Ondra freesoloing in that location

Placing bolts for adrenaline is the ultimate gate keeping. Making a cringe rap song intro though is top tier hilarious. Boo chores. Yeah climbing fails!

@ragreenburg

2 жыл бұрын

I went to Red Rock and was seeing routes (5.10/11+) where the first bolt was 20 feet up. Super annoying stuff. Apparently they couldn't be bothered to have a bolt closer to the ground.

what’s a ‘balt’? ‘Eldgrid’ device? 😂

The device is called Edelrid Ohm. It does work quite well once you get used to it.

Fire intro! Might set it as my ringtone

Best clip while eating some chocolate ice cream

Rap(pel) god!!!

The dawgbone of the quickdraw that failed is made out of nylon not dyneema

damnn those lil' dicky vibes

The intro we didnt know we needed. That song is going to be playing at all the crags soon.

Lol the one did pu was so funny

The device is called the ohm it’s like a grigri on the first clip, climbingforlife is in your intro also.

im like in my forties... but... tHaNkS dAd

Daddy's back

In that 3rd video. If she was using a grigri and got KOD they'd be totally f'd

The new young climbers. Back in the day when we used to bolt on Lead with a home made gear n pipe puffin away while the vision blurred from the effects of last nights chemical induced debauchery. Jiggery pokery was the norm . We didn't wear skirts like the ney saying critical that weren't even an itch their dad's scro. It's a new time . They don't dangle n swing low big loose n hairy. The New peanuts stay drawn up inside smooth and clean. I've heard it's the soy The dinosaur now watch on with shock n awe. We laugh n giggle at the soft new wave. The pendulum will swing back again.

Take a shot everytime he says bolt wrong

Tips for not havay belayers ware a havy backpack

The anchor at 12:20 is on the Trough 5.4 in Tahquitz I think. Some dude died due to gear failure this week in the same spot, possibly for the reasons you mentioned.

@BetaClimbers

2 жыл бұрын

Woah….

@ragreenburg

2 жыл бұрын

I think you are mistaken. Someone died there in 2003 and there are a bunch of memorial articles about them that came out this week. I'm not seeing anything of people dying this week though?

The series could just as easily be called “wear a helmet”.

@BetaClimbers

2 жыл бұрын

Well that’s facts

I appreciate that you explain specifically what's not safe. Sometimes you explain the correct way, sometimes not that great or not as much as I need.

🤣 tune

"don't tell him what he can't do" don't worry, reality will tell him

0:26 that brought back memories of a lot of pain (still I did it twice 😎

i use the elderid ohm every time i climb outside with my fiancé it is quite effective at reducing the forces on the belayer

Love the content. Meh, on the beginning rap. Also make yourself smaller and the videos bigger! For real though, really great learning material!!!

@BetaClimbers

2 жыл бұрын

The problem is that the videos are all from cell phones nowadays so it’s all vertical….Guess I won’t be trying out for American idol after all… 😔

Yoooo! Where have you been dude? Hope as is well.

@BetaClimbers

2 жыл бұрын

Big job down south took 100 percent of my time. 🤙🏻

At 10:44 - "you wouldn't be seeing this in America" - yeah because everything that goes on everywhere in America is always optimal and never done by idiots or the unknowing

@JenEFur

2 жыл бұрын

Yeah that made me cringe as well.

edelrid ohm is king

The ice pick fail would not have been as bad if the belayer wasn't standing three football fields back from the wall.

Wear trapdoor pants so you can open up your pants and take a dump without taking your pants down the guy below you won’t be happy

People really underestimate what gravity does to a body combined with just a little bit of height.

You say bolt weird. Sounds like bault.

If I had a nickel for every time you say wear a helmet… I could easily afford a helmet. It’s insane how many don’t use em 🤯

You kind of switched that facts around on the first example with the quickdraw. The dog bone on quickdraws are generally made from thick nylon. When you make your own from a sling most people use dyneema (which is really just a brand name like Gortex, dynemma is simply ultra high molecular weight polyethylene) slings since they are lighter weight and more durable they nylon slings.

@BetaClimbers

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks got my mords wixed 🤙🏻🤣

@laurenhughes9812

2 жыл бұрын

@@BetaClimbers Fun video though!

balt

👏👏👏👏😂😂

@4:56 ish with the heavy climber / light belayer, the climber looks like he didn’t even try to grab the hold. Looks like he just dynamically popped up and slapped the wall!

@BetaClimbers

2 жыл бұрын

Yeah not much commitment on that one. Maybe just feeling out the move.

I have never heard someone pronounce 'bolt' like that. 😬

BALTS IN PLACES ALL WILLY NILLY

First clip is New Brunswick - Canada