As a guide with the AMGA I literally cannot recommend Cody Bradfords videos enough. They single handedly made me a more efficient and smarter climber. He unfortunately passed away earlier this year, but his content is a gold mine that will be useful forever.

@seanshang11

Жыл бұрын

He passed away?? What happened?

@hunterkogelman3558

Жыл бұрын

@@seanshang11 He committed suicide in September of this year unfortunately.

@JorgePacker

Жыл бұрын

@@hunterkogelman3558 are you serious? 😟

@bloodink9508

Жыл бұрын

@@JorgePacker sadly yes.

@nettewilson5926

Жыл бұрын

What??? No!

Ive never been so stressed watching a climbing fails lol

@terriblegamers2213

Жыл бұрын

Same. Lots of waves of anxiety watching this guy making so many mistakes

@tobimathi2941

Жыл бұрын

Agreed. Really hard to watch.

You have the singing voice of an angel.

@Phoenixhunter157

Жыл бұрын

Absolutely. 😂❤

My stress while watching the "multipitch simulation": 📈📈📈📈

@MsChaos1977

Жыл бұрын

couldnt watch it skipt a bit, was expecting that he falls. ;-)

I remember watching the first video and being nauseated. So many things done wrong it's a wonder they're still alive.

That belay device in guide mode on the first clip is more trustable hands free than a GriGri when belaying a climber from below.

@stsam63

Жыл бұрын

yes probably, but still important to never remove a hand from the break strand

@johnwesely

Жыл бұрын

It’s completely fine to go hands free with a guide mode atc

@willscanlon9843

Жыл бұрын

@@johnwesely Be careful saying it's "completely fine" to let go of the rope when belaying in guide mode. There are a couple edge cases where this could be dangerous. First, if the rope diameter is too small and the top strand slips under the brake strand and the other being if you are belaying two seconds who both weight the rope and pull at greatly different angles.

@johnwesely

Жыл бұрын

@@willscanlon9843 I would consider both of those out of spec, but yes, you probably shouldn’t rely on the guide mode in extreme edge cases

@Mike-oz4cv

Жыл бұрын

@@johnwesely In addition to the other problems mentioned: If something prevents your tube-style device from easily and fully rotating into the locked position it won’t lock. Sure, that shouldn’t happen and should be pretty easy to spot the moment you start belaying, but things happen.

Almost spit out my drink when i watched the helmet of the final belayer pop off his head when the climber took the fall.....was hoping you caught it too lol

Five stars for the Oompa Loompa routine!!

Good catch about the two quickdraws at the anchor, I have used that method, but not thought about my partner cleaning the route and just unclipping subconsciously,

Gnarly video. Beautiful song.

The Expanse books taught me that those who don't double check everything that has already been double checked tend to leave the gene pool early.

The first guy pioneered the "trinagle of quickdraws" method. Lord.

Came for the new video, stayed for the MUSIC VIDEO WHERE DID THAT COME FROM OH MY GOD

@24:55 the belayers helmet also panicks and dives off the belayers head lmao

One of the first things I learned for multipitch/ TR/ belay from above is to carry up a pre-made quad. Also this guy will be so much more stoked once he learns a bit more.

@Phoenixhunter157

Жыл бұрын

I agree. With a little bit more technique and knowledge, this guy’s gonna be so excited to climb. He clearly loves and will love it even more.

@Mike-oz4cv

Жыл бұрын

Here in Austria we do it similarly but we use a sling with a bowline on a bight in it and use the small loop as our master point. Equalization is a myth anyway. Makes for a very tidy belay.

In the last video, the belayer seems to have a "grigri". If it were a normal plate device (e.g. atc), the climber would touched the ground, none of both hands are holding the brake lane properly. Even the helmet of the belayer went off at some point. Ridiculous. Again great analysis. Thank you.

@hecatommyriagon655

Жыл бұрын

That "belayer" did nothing to save their climber. Both hands grabbed the active end of the rope and as you said, no hands on the break line. They should wake up and get some serious training, before they kill someone.

my drugs must have kicked in around minute 11.... great video!

That Oompa Loompa bit had me dying!!😂 Great vid🤘

Couple tips for improvement for the first guy. Build a quad anchor on the ground. Arrive at anchor, put a quickdraw on a bolt and clip the rope to protect while you install the anchor. Install the quad, clip PAS (or clip carabiner and clove hitch) to masterpoint. Weight check quad then remove original quick draw and call off belay. If you know the follower will be lowered, belay off harness with the rope redirected through 'biner clipped to the masterpoint. If for some reason guide mode belay is required, when the time comes to lower, ensure follower is secure (either they have clipped to master point or you have tied off the brake strand. To lower, install prusik on brake strand and clip to leg loop. You can use a carabiner or a sling threaded through the hole on the nose of the device and rerouted through a higher piece of protection to assist in defeating the autolock. Maintain hand on brake strand/prusik when attempting to defeat the device. If the climber is light or the distance to lower is short, you may be able to get away with tilting the device by hand or wiggling the biner that is touching the rope. For the second scenario where he was rapping down, I would install two opposite and opposed draws and then clip them with the PAS to achieve redundancy. Alternatively, you could girth hitch a sling to your harness or use some quick draws to clip the second bolt. Now you can come off belay. Instead of untying, you should be able to push a bight of rope through the lower rings. Once the bight is through, tie it off with an overhand and then clip that loop to your belay loop with a locker. Now you can untie from your harness and pull the slack through the rings. Now you can weight test the system before getting lowered. I think ethically it is ok to lower through the hardware, as long as you don't plan to continue to TR on it. Note, sometimes a rappel is called for, usually because of a sharp edge. Acronyms that I run in my head every time I set an anchor SRENE - Secure, redundant, equalized, No Extension, Efficient. Lots of opinions about this, my general rule is that if the anchor point is bomber beyond question and achieving redundancy will result in significant faff, I am willing to fudge a bit on redundancy (this is primarily for trad anchor scenarios, for bolted anchors, no reason not to clip both bolts every time). Good article here discussing this topic www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/thoughts-on-redundancy-in-climbing-anchors Every time I start a climb, start a belay or am preparing to clip out of an anchor, I run this BARK - Belts (check harness), Anchor (SRENE, rope threaded correctly), Rappel (or belay) device set correctly, Knot (knots in end of rope, personal tie in knot) - also checking these on my partner, if possible. Also, always always always weight check before unclipping, that is your final failsafe.

@Mike-oz4cv

Жыл бұрын

For your first tip: You don’t even have to put a quick draw into the anchor. Just put in your prepared sling and clove hitch yourself directly to the master point.

@thedude7757

Жыл бұрын

@@Mike-oz4cv Also valid. I'll typically do the quickdraw thing if the stance is tenuous at the anchor and I'm still worried about taking a lead fall. I find a quickdraw is easier to get in while pumped than a tether.

I Don't know if it's good: but i can't get the song out of my head since yesterday..... :) :( :/

RIP CODY!!!!! I learned so much from his videos!

@giorgiacanali5457

Жыл бұрын

What do you mean Rip?

@danylokozynets9364

Жыл бұрын

that helmet...brilliant

@howtowithhank4791

Жыл бұрын

He's dead

@DubberssMcgee

Жыл бұрын

@@giorgiacanali5457 They guy he showed in the clip clarifying the proper way to do what they were trying to do from the first fail is Cody Bradford he tragically passed from suicide this year.

To be fair to that belayer at the end, it looks like his climber was well out of sight. What would he be looking at if he was looking up? On some routes, there's not a huge amount you can do once your climber is out of sight. You just gotta watch the slack in front of you and feed out as needed.

@connordobsonclimb

Жыл бұрын

People have climbed outside once and think they are experts is why people are butt hurt 😅

Look up the comments the person in the fall on Cactus Head (Cactus Massacre wall in Red Rock Canyon) at 23:25 left on their tick list on mountain project. They 100% blamed the first ascensionist for not "trundling" all loose rocks from the climb rather than take any personal responsibility for their or their inattentive belayers errors. Absolute clown

@5.9boiz

Жыл бұрын

What a turd 😂

Thank you so much for the Oompa Loompa routine. Laughed my ass off. Brilliant.

I could only watch the videos of this guy a little bit at a time... then go de-compress. I guess they are educational, perhaps even more-so than many of the videos with actual falls, so on that level including these clips really does serve the stated educational purpose of posting these fail videos, but lordy. All of the fumbling about is unnerving enough, even if the person were getting things right along the way (albeit painfully slowly), but fumbling about while still making glaring mistakes along the way with no redundancy, letting go of the brake hand, etc., is just painful. Yes, practicing on the ground, as was mentioned, is essential when you are at this point in the learning curve... provided that you're self-aware enough to actually be practicing those techniques correctly, of course. Wow!

Today I had the scariest experience ever. I was climbing in a gym with only automatic belaying systems... One guy was at the last move, 13 meters from the ground, when my friend said, I think the guy is not attached... And guess what, the guy climbed a 6A free soloing and he realised he was not attached at the very top!!! Luckly I screamed to him not to move any further, one guy climbed right next to him with two belaying systems, and he was able to help him attach himself and safely come back to the ground... But knowing that the last move was a dyino and that I screamed right before he jumped... Well I am still shaking, I had to stop climbing and went home, thinking what would have happened if 6 people didn't manage to help this dumb guy!

@MisterClimber

Жыл бұрын

Nightmare fuel

@bloodink9508

Жыл бұрын

Autobelay devices terrify me more than multipitch climbing with first timers.

@DubberssMcgee

Жыл бұрын

Great work there it is indeed a terrifying situation but you should commend yourself for taking action in the moment.

@Phoenixhunter157

Жыл бұрын

😮😮😮oh my goodness ! That is so scary !

@derekatwood6236

Жыл бұрын

Stop getting in the way of natural selection

😆 That oompa loompa thing was hilarious.

I'm usually not one to hit the like button, but the Oompa Loompa video? How could I not!

That guy probably wasn’t looking up because he didn’t want his unbuckled helmet to fall off.

I like red lockers too. Mostly so I can say: “If it’s red, you’re dead”

@Briandotcom0

Жыл бұрын

My sister has one; I don't. She always thinks I'm locked even when I'm not. That's the downside of them.

An ATC/tube device in guide mode is great when used correctly, but that can be said with most gear. I personally prefer a tube over a grigri with the exception of top roping newer climbers, but that’s just me.

@pu11y

Жыл бұрын

It's a more versatile device, especially in the UK, where we use 2 ropes for trad.

@bloodink9508

Жыл бұрын

@@pu11y we have a lot of two rope rappels around my way, so I often do the same.

I hope the person who takes away the most from this review is the climber. We all make mistakes, but if you are consistently making this many errors, eventually gravity is going to win. I’d bet a biner that he peels off an anchor in the near future.

This lowering method with carabiner in little hole of reverso is in petzl manual. not talking about lack of thirdhand, but only about unlocking device.

Just one thing: it is not OK to build an anchor with just one quickdraw on each bolt! If you are actually doing multi-pitch, a fall from the leader on the second pitch could move the quickdraws in ways that could unclip themselves, or depending on the situation and how you are belaying (e.g. with a Munter hitch and a factor 2 fall), the carabiners can open by themselves under the load, and with the carabiner elongating, they will not close back, effectively leaving you hanging on two carabiners with an open gate! If top-roping, it would be acceptable if you placed two quickdraws with the gates opening to opposite sides. And yes, this is pretty scary. If this guy does not take some time to learn things the right way, I am afraid he will eventually have a pretty bad accident.

@wenkeli1409

Жыл бұрын

If you looked at the comments left by his climbing partner in this video... I fear he won't be getting good instruction any time soon.

@bloodink9508

Жыл бұрын

@@wenkeli1409 initially perhaps, but recent comments would suggest it's getting through.

@raiemie7365

Жыл бұрын

@@wenkeli1409 dude gets to see a close up of his friend relying on god and thinks nothing of it, scary shit

@t33can

Жыл бұрын

I don't understand why he doesn't build an anchor like any normal person with either 2 hitches in carbines connecting the rope or a sling in carbines with "soft eye" to clip into. It's much simpler than the quick draw mess he made and 10 times safer.

Joshua, please could you post a video recreating the first video in this one in betaclimbers style? (maybe with a quad and a regular ATC guide... or however you would do it?) Despite all the things the guy could have done better, he had a great that camera angle that clearly showed everything he was doing. The internet would benefit from a updated version of this video with less fails!

15:23 OMG i almost had a heart attack watching that 🤣

8:35 made my blood freeze

@mugoyoutube1681

Жыл бұрын

10:25 Resurrected me 😂

@Dan_Is_Aid

Жыл бұрын

Bro my soul was screaming at me to not trust him. I just made sure I grabbed the jugs on the way down 💀

I wondered why this video took so long, I see now 🤣 and it's so worth it! Oompah loompa 😂

Thanks, Joshua. I am delighted to see Cody in this video. Rest in piece

The guy rapelling on fireman's @15:03 is not bomber. Too little extension on the rappel device, the prussik can jam in to it, and gravity'd take over.

@yutoobe123

10 ай бұрын

BTW, one my friend puts the prussik on extension (so prussik wraps the loaded end). Never seen that but they say it's bomber, is it?

It would be good to show that first video at the start and end of a week long climbing course

in the last video, in my opinion, the fact that the first piece pops out it is actually the end of the world because as a consequence all the other pieces could have been unzipped

@BetaClimbers

Жыл бұрын

Yeah that could happen good point

@connordobsonclimb

Жыл бұрын

I just hate it when the entire pitch zippers. 😂

would like to see a little longer videos, but enjoy your content and think its very educational for us newer climbers! Always better to learn from others mistakes. They say experience is recognizing your mistake the second time you do it, but we don't always have that option in this sport.

What about clipping into rings where you would Rappel down later from? They are making them sharp so that the rope will suffer

If that personal anchor is a Petzl connect it was rated for Fall Factor 1; just checked can’t find any rating ! Instructions show do not climb above the anchor; ( as when he was going over an edge

This guy really likes keeping his gates against the rock for some reason.

hooolyyy shiiittt that first video made me flinch, so many things wrong :/

Lost it at Oompa loompa! You win the internet! :D

I died 100 times watching this

The first thing you said about the unclipping mindset is so true and people never think about it

That song sequence was the best thing ever!

Holy shit. What a great video. The Oompa Loompa song made me laugh out loud.

Dude, I am a shuddering watching the belay techniques of the first vid....

Pivots are easy to lower on, you need a quickdraw to release them. They are designed to be easier to lower, that's the whole point of them. With normal guide mode you are supposed to use a munter on the brake strand, that guides method looks like a complete clusterfuck. I've also got no idea why you would use a prussik instead of a munter on a biner. No mention of toproping on inward facing gates, they are supposed to be outward facing because the gates can interact with each other.

@BetaClimbers

Жыл бұрын

Good eye

Here lad, that "Climbing like you've just smoked a joint" line in your song was uncalled for like.

This gave me a nauseous feeling to watch. Especially when he was saying "I love this shit", I expected him to drop his climber to death.

Everybody has these fancy personal anchors lol I just use a nylon sling

@bloodink9508

Жыл бұрын

Bunny ears for me. Two slings to lockers. Done and dusted.

@user-pr5tx9ep4m

Жыл бұрын

Agreed. Unnecessarily complex. And papers over ignorance of fundamentals.

@Alvinyokatori

Жыл бұрын

@@bloodink9508 2 nylons 3 lockers master sling

His lowering of that guy is the most stressed I've been watching a climbing video. Okay, hand of a brake rope on an assisted braking device is a no no, but it's not *that* bad on its own.. But then he's actively attempting to disengage the braking feature, repeatedly, with his hand off the brake rope. Wtf? His partner is lucky to have made it down fine.

She's going to feel that in her neck the rest of her life.

Wow, some people have no regard for basic safety. I'm no expert, but will happily point out things to others and have never had anyone complain or tell me were to go. Always better to try and inform rather than hear someone has died.

Was friends with a guy who was a guide in some basic ass DC area TRing. Apparently people tried to untie/other Weird shit all the time. Got some good stories

@cristianorlandoelpro416

Жыл бұрын

That must have been GF or Carderock. I’ve heard a lot about sketchy setups in Carderock

@demoniccat1005

Жыл бұрын

@@cristianorlandoelpro416 yep, carderock. Many a bad anchor system set up by gumbies. Constantly having to help people not kill themselves trying to rap/climb.

The fact that the thumbnail font makes it read as "Cumbing fails" still cracks me up

Damn I loved the vids Cody made. Never knew him, but I’m sad that the world lost him.

Hey. In Norway it's a lot of bolted sport routs with two non-locking carabiners at the anchor. .. Would it be safe enough to make a figure eight with bunny ears and clip one ear to one carabine and the other ear to the second carabiner for top rope solo?

Belaying is a formality until it isn't.

So many of these, I struggle to understand what they're doing... they seem to make everything way more complicated than it needs to be...

There is the a great difference between gymnastics skills and overall climbing aptitude. You see spectacular rock ascent videos, swimming in the buy-the-gear market and you are fit. If you see through mountaineering history in the alps and the continental united states, you will look well trained climbers: goals, not oversized egos; common sense, not daring behaviour; and, something that matters in the mountaineering activity, humility, and not a narcissism.

getting a little slower climbing out of there😊

The first two ones gave me a heart attack!

The trouble is even if you have your redirect to the atc unlock carabiner it can still result in an uncontrollable fall as the atc does not lock on demand even when the redirect is stopped being pulled by the belayer. There's another video with the guide showing what happens when the atc id completely unlocked using this method. The climber falls before you even know what's happened. The advice is to tie a prussik on the break line with catastrophe knot below. Then untie the catastrophe know once everything has been checked. If in case the belayer pulls on the redirect too hard or the climber starts falling uncontrollably, the prussik will lock the brake strand pulling the belayer towards the anchor and unweighted the redirect. Climb safe

this. video is amazing! love the singing

That last video looked like the belayer was trying to catch the fall by grabbing the live strand. I think someone got saved by a semi auto device there.

That last belayer's helmet just pops off! And his brake hand is up/forward! Gggaaahhhh!!

That the carabiner recommended for the petzl connect

Dude your content is the best

When in doubt let go of everything, repeatedly.

I like the oompa lumpa so much 😁

RIP Cody Bradford

Minute 19 the gate on that Attaché is unscrewed. Bad looking deal there.

i got the master protection because i don't smoke joints at the wall i bring the bong

In A world of climbing annihilation lmfao

That oompa loompa skit is going to give me nightmares

What ever happened to cleaning with 2 slings and 3 lockers

It would be really awesome if you set up the correct approach and showed us, being that you have all that cool equipment right behind you. I would better understand, and likely others would as well. Thank you for doing this, it is very beneficial to learn what mistakes look like.

don’t know why the guy in the first video couldn’t just bring a piece of webbing to use as an anchor. hell of a lot cheaper, safer, and easier than fumbling with a bunch of quickdraws.

❤loved your thumbnail 😅

Thank you for this video. This guys rappel was a disaster. He's using a Quickdraw! And I agree about rigging ahead of time, but also weighting each part of the system to make sure the system works, and the redundancy is too close to the rappel device, which renders the redundancy useless. Hand to brake the rope before going over. Too many deaths are from going down, not up. I wouldn't want to climb with this guy.

6:49 needs speed to catch eh.....slow fall or peal off could slip 5' b4 it catches

Finally some dancing.

one thing I cannot understand is how these helmets constantly pop off...

Man, the cringe in this video is very strong. The crags of the world should get a restraining order against this guy. Very lucky to not have caused any accidents.

RIP in peace Cody B.

oompa, loompa doopa dee doo....!

your telling me don't watch youtube and just send it off a 55 foot cliff

Yup....I remember the first time I fucked around at an anchor.... You gotta do it a few times but damn...NEVER on one point. Ever. I also always thought it hinckey to reach down and tie on to an anchor and just toss over. We try to find some damn thing to rappel from on the top side, then go down and make a proper anchor and rap the rest. I understand that it is not always possible but not being able to weight test your rig until it means your life is not cool.

why does the belayer's helmet BLOW at 23:44 ?? also... so many pieces popping....not only the first one placed...

Thumbs up just for the intro song!

Are we happy climbing with someone who can't tie a clove hitch?

What a big mess he did 😆

a very tuneful voice. I wonder if you sang in opera 🤣😅