Your videos are cool but you should first learn/study about what you do and recommend on your videos, because I’ve seen quiet some wrong and cringe things from your videos

@NathanBuildsRobots

Жыл бұрын

Go on...

@RazzoAratey

Жыл бұрын

I’m waiting on anticipation

@mysticmarble94

Жыл бұрын

You are literally making broad claims without any specificity or examples ... while also somehow expecting not to look like a fookin 🤡

@natereinhold6180

Жыл бұрын

Thermal paste...

@joshuaharlow4241

Жыл бұрын

Grabbing pop corn now.

Great video and I love the wit, glad I subscribed!

Interesting video as always 👍 Thanks for sharing your experience with All of us 👍😃

The amounts of paste on the nozzle/block connection is for sure the biggest factor here 👍

@NathanBuildsRobots

Жыл бұрын

I only got to 1 mm^3/s without it.

I gotta try this on my kp3s! Awesome video!

go for it nathan

This is why NBR is my best educational channel for 3D printing... I'm a newbie that like to understand the details about thermodynamics, mechanics and physics, because those details are very important. Not just "do this and you will resolve your problems". Thanks

@starguy9

11 ай бұрын

I agree. I was watching other channels, but they didn't teach well. This guy explains things for the average joe while doing challenging work. That's my learning style.

@NM-wd7kx

11 ай бұрын

I also recommend 'lost in tech', similar approach (& I believe NBR watches him too)

Ohhhhhhyeeeaaaaah baby let's do this, keep the filament flowing baby. 💪✌️🇺🇸😎

@NathanBuildsRobots

Жыл бұрын

I need to do a 5kg spool time lapse

@Reindeer-ry2lf

Жыл бұрын

@@NathanBuildsRobots ohh that's one monster amount of filament in one print. Even at klipper speed that's going to take a while 😂😜

@NathanBuildsRobots

Жыл бұрын

@@Reindeer-ry2lf I'm not sure it's possible to fit 5kg in this printer build volume. Gonna have to switch the cht setup over to my Ender3 S1 Plus

great work

@NathanBuildsRobots

Жыл бұрын

Thanks! Any thoughts on doing a 1-armed DIY printer running klipper? I have some drawings on how to make this thing a lot stronger, by having 2 arms, but placing them both on the left side. There are some pretty nice and compact ways of doing it.

@Rolohaun

Жыл бұрын

@@NathanBuildsRobots I think the Ratrig V minion already has a solid one are printer. But your design sounds cool

@NathanBuildsRobots

Жыл бұрын

@@Rolohaun I just watched the modbot video. Looks like a solid printer. Not a huge fan of the external electronics box. They need someone to work on the packaging!

@Rolohaun

Жыл бұрын

@@NathanBuildsRobots I agree

resin printing the fan shroud. very cool stuff on this channel

@NathanBuildsRobots

Жыл бұрын

Tyvm!

Hey great informative video as always. I own a tronxy crux 1, it's a very nice machine especially the metal wheels that makes it very robust and reliable. I can't wait to see your review and ideas of updates.

@NathanBuildsRobots

Жыл бұрын

It looks like the Crux fixed several of my complaints about the Ender 2 Pro. We will see if it survives judgment day! I definitely want to update the extruder. I kind of hate titan extruders. They are really great, reliable, solid extruders. But they crap out above 12 mm^3/s in my experience. I NEED MORE SPEED!!! Fortunately I have a Bondtech LGX Mini laying around that needs a host.

As always a brilliant video, this is exactly the sort of upgrade I am looking to do. If anything faster prints convince others of 3D printing being something accessible. Also larger layer lines give functional prints

@NathanBuildsRobots

Жыл бұрын

Yes, nobody will wait around at a store or market for you to print something for them in 5 hrs, but if you can do it in 10 minutes, that's going to be huge. Online orders and stuff are still fine with current speed printing, because it usually takes longer to ship them, but some kind of same-day on-demand service would still be pretty unique. Just like ordering dominos or doordash.

Okay I'm assuming this was for humors sake but if anyone is watching for actual advice, with thermal paste less is more. You want a minimal thin layer, not a giant messy glob.

@NathanBuildsRobots

Жыл бұрын

That may be true in computer hardware, but with this stuff any excess will be displaced by the significantly huge clamping load. An M6 thread tightened to 1.5 N*m equates to 200 kgf or 500lbf A typical cpu heatsink retainer only applies about 10 lbf

@caramelzappa

Жыл бұрын

@@NathanBuildsRobots That's valid reasoning, but I still think it was an excessive amount, compared to for reference, slices own boron nitrate installation video. I had some other thoughts on the video, please don't take them as argumentative or critcisim, just a different perspective and possibilites from my own limited experience printing. I enjoyed the video and really like your presentation style. When it comes to scraping, I have two alternate possible reasons. I think the canteliever design is fine for small, light toolheads, but the sprite added a significant amount of weight and moving mass to the gantry. The effect of that mass is of course greater the closer it is to the end of the canteliever. My stock ender 2 pro has zero problems with scraping or flexing on the canteliever X, and I believe that is mostly to do with both perfectly adjusted v wheels and keeping the toolhead light. The sprite is really on the havier end, even compared to other direct drive options like a printed sherpa mini or saiflin extruder with a pancake motor. Another thing to look at that I didn't see you mention in the video is tuning flow. Most of the time if I'm expeceriencing scraping of any kind, if it's not a mechanical issue like misaligned axes, poor bed leveling, etc, it is pretty much always extrusion multiplier aka flow rate %. You didn't mention tuning flow. You should not only tune your esteps for the new sprite extruder (which I asssume you did) but also tune flow per filament and especially now that you have modified your flow characteristics with the CHT and UHF nut. If you have too much flow you will experience scraping. Another thought is the cooling, I know you said you were going to modify the duct to be properly aimed at the lower nozzle. I would suggest also looking into trihorn or any other tyle of duct that cools from multiple angles. The faster and hotter your printing the more helpful it is to have more coverage with your cooling. Not mentioned in the video but I think important to do when you make changes like this, is a PID tune for your heater. You can do this in marlin with pronterface or even just by putting the right commands in a gcode file on the SD card. This ensures you're heater is getting to and keeping consistant temperature throughout the print. A silicolne sock would help too, one possibility is cutting down both a rapido and sprite sock to properly cover both parts of the heater/nozzle. I did something similar on my CHC PRO hotend that I also put the rapido UHF on. I'm eager to see your experience with the Tronxy Crux 1, on paper I think it's one of the best desgined printers in the cheap canteliever segment, but I have no first hand experience with one yet.

@NathanBuildsRobots

Жыл бұрын

@polurazonituc It spat those out on the first print. Little white chunks in there. On 0.4mm nozzles that can be very annoying, but 1.2mm nozzle just passes it no problem

@NathanBuildsRobots

Жыл бұрын

​@@caramelzappa Thanks, you have a lot of good points. My mods are the junk food of 3D printer mods. Just slapping things on and pressing go. I'm good with the mechanical stuff, but anything in firmware or tuning takes me ages to figure out - so more often than not I just leave the stock firmware and tuning. yeah the duct coming from multiple angles would be good. On the green one, the previous layers are still tacky. If you check out my other CHT video (kzread.info/dash/bejne/dYNnj9WJf9CqYs4.html), I have a better cooling fan design on-hand. I should put that on for the 100mm^3 test, or use a much larger model with way longer layer times, and an external fan, or whole layer fan coming from behind. I actually modeled something for that! Might try it in a future video. I didn't re-level the bed. With the extra weight, the bed should probably be tilted a little bit so its lower on the right. Would also like to try the KP3 Pro , but Kingroon said they want me to review their PEX sheet first.

@NathanBuildsRobots

Жыл бұрын

@@caramelzappa Also, yeah, it was excessive. There was a little plug of dried material at the end, a nozzle clog if you will. So I was just trying to not let it go to waste! Probably would have used about 1/4 as much.

The printed object looks really good high quality.

You should try the Rat Rig V-Minion. It shows that a cantilevered x can be reasonably rigid if you use wide-enough extrusions and a good-sized linear rail on the z. Not as stiff as dual z rails, but stiff enough. Especially when used with a NEMA14 36mm pancake based extruder.

@NathanBuildsRobots

Жыл бұрын

Yeah that machine looks sick. Will reach out to them

I love this! Time to do this on my printer that doesn't work yet. I don't know this printer board, but you may need to flash a boot loader to the printer. Its not that usual for that to be needed anymore.

You removed your vid before i got to finish watching it this morning. Thought my WiFi went out. Thank goodness I have another ender 2 pro to try this on. Gotta check to see if i can still purchase your board. Been waiting for this video. I noticed you and CHEP have used this printer in recent videos. I like it. Thanks

@NathanBuildsRobots

Жыл бұрын

Yeah, YT decided to remove the 4k quality option, so I had to reupload. I AINT BURNING HUNDREDS OF GB ON MY LAPTOP FOR NO REASON!

I’m watching your video waiting for my ender2 to be delivered

@NathanBuildsRobots

Жыл бұрын

Nice! Its a fun little printer

Those nozzle extensions really need some insulation. I actually saturated my 50 W heater at 263 C (target 270 C) and ~60 mm^3/s because it was losing so much heat from the extension.

@MichaelWatersJ

Жыл бұрын

Oh and this is NBR's fault, he got me into wide CHT nozzles.

@NathanBuildsRobots

Жыл бұрын

Don't blame me, blame Bondtech!

I picked up an Ender 2 Pro this weekend. I'm considering picking up a Sprite Pro to put on it. I have an S1 Pro and I like the Sprite on that. I'd be interested to see a video of you installing klipper or some other firmware on it, so that we can see those higher temps.

You are missing the point of the Volcano Hotend. You need a volcano heat block to transfer heat to the full length of the nozzle.

@NathanBuildsRobots

Жыл бұрын

I thought so too, but CNC Kitchen did a pretty good video on topic. I watched it after making this video, so I added a reference to it in the video description.

Wow… this episode is different. And I learned a lot of stuff.

On stock boards you have to connect via ISP port with an Atmel programmer. Flash the bootloader on the controller, and after that, you can flash your firmware on it via a USB cable.

I feel like I haven’t heard any of your thoughts, comments, and information from any of the other people presenting their 3D printing experiences. Your views and knowledge are very appreciated.

@NathanBuildsRobots

Жыл бұрын

Yes, my background is a little different. I'm not really a "maker", more like a professional engineer with a lot to say about the state of 3d printing 🙂

Another thing that determines the speed of heat transfer is temperature difference, bigger difference bigger speed. Therefore, without any upgrades just raise the hotend temperature. The downside is that because of uneven heating your "skin" of the filament could be burning before the inside is fully melted

@NathanBuildsRobots

Жыл бұрын

True. I think the cht features help stir things up and chop up that solid core, but I have noticed at high speed it's still an issue

Hi. What was layer width x hight you used in vase mode?

Now you can 3D Print your own 3mm Filament xD

In my experience, temperatures at least up to 300°C are fine for pure PLA unless you're going to let it just sit idle and bake for minutes at a time.

@NathanBuildsRobots

Жыл бұрын

Good to know! I want to try 300C at some point.

Thats a lot of flow especially on 75 mm3/s, great work. By the way the model you print looks good, is it yours or we can find it anywhere??

@NathanBuildsRobots

Жыл бұрын

It's called rectangular vase mode trash can or something, I'll try to look it up and add to the description

@andreasantoniou5098

Жыл бұрын

@@NathanBuildsRobots Thanks a lot, keep up the good work!!

how does mm/2 convert into mm/3 print speeds?

I have been using Arctic Silver thermal paste, same paste I use for my computer and it has worked fantastic and no it does not smoke or burn!

Boron Nitride is so inert that the mystery liquid it's suspended in is the bigger concern.

@NathanBuildsRobots

Жыл бұрын

I assumed it was just water, but I don't know about that! Its odorless.

@joshuaharlow4241

Жыл бұрын

Guys, you really need to cut out all the interesting chat, I need to get some sleep.

@satibel

Жыл бұрын

@@NathanBuildsRobots probably silicone or mineral oil, do not eat it, but it should be fine unless you're allergic (silicone oil is used as a lube for sexual intercourse). the silicone grease may melt the silicone sock/make it sticky though, but that's not a big issue.

Where did you get the Volcano CHT nozzle from?

@NathanBuildsRobots

Жыл бұрын

I know a guy at bondtech. But they are for sale at a number of online stores now

Is it a good idea putting all that boron nitride paste into the filament path? Doesn't that stuff harden and clog the nozzle?

@NathanBuildsRobots

Жыл бұрын

It came out with the first bit of extruded plastic. With a 1.2mm nozzle, clogging isn't too much of an issue. On a 0.4mm you might have a problem.

Can this upgrade prevent clog?

Nathan what do you think about combining an S1 with Klipper firmware/input shaping (via 2-step Creality Sonic Pad), CHT nozzle & nuts (as Stefan on CNC kitchen did), and upping the print speed to max? great vid as always. Thanks again for designing that wicked fan shroud - I've got it on my S1 and did similar fan mods to you too (albeit with buck converters rather than zenner diodes or resistors). Also have the all metal hotend from creality loving my heavily modified, silent S1 with Octoprint. Still to be done: enclosure and klipper/CHT nozzle so I can print high speed and/or high temp technical materials like the PA6-CF I bought a few weeks back. I'd love to install linear rails for the X axis as the gantry has so much play that no amount of nut tightening resolves, but I'll also have to buy new 2020 extrusion to replace the X-axis as creality brilliantly only got extrusion that is open on top/bottom rather than all 4 sides plan is to eventually 3D print a 3D printer (structure)

@NathanBuildsRobots

Жыл бұрын

I don't like klipper all that much. With how many machines I have, and always switching them around, I prefer the old-school workflow. Its annoying to browse through 12 printers on your local network compared to pointing at a printer and inserting an SD card. But I'm not "most people", and I think most people will prefer to have 1-3 printers set up on their network, and printing away. CHT can't do CF reinforced. The flow splitting features are pretty delicate and would probably get worn down pretty quick. They are working on a Tool Steel version. Should be pretty exciting. I imagine they are going to have to use Electric Discharge Machining or metal 3D printing to realize the geometry, since it's hard to drill small holes in tool steel, because it's so hard. Plus they have to do their own testing and quality assurance. I think they are taking their time to get it right. On this machine, I had issues with the printhead plate barely having enough adjustability to get it tight. So I think they didn't design enough range into this thing to reliable snug things up... Thanks Creality! Best bet would be to get another carriage or maybe loosen the bolts for the 2 top wheels, and retighten them while pushing down to lock them in at the narrow end of things.

@iamdmc

Жыл бұрын

@@NathanBuildsRobots thanks for the reply I'm planning for klipper+cht for high speed PLA prints only. TPU will still be regular speed for material property reasons. The enclosure + all metal hotend + hardened steel nozzles are for PA6-CF and PC, probably at only slightly higher speed than usual depending on what I can get away with and if klipper is any help The S1 is an amazing printer and with a few upgrades is becoming one of the most capable printers on the midrange market. I only paid £220 taxes in here in the UK, and probably £100 in purchased upgrades. Yes octoprint isn't for everyone but I like the spaghetti detection ai plugin, octolapse photography, live previews, and the option of not having to incessantly plug and unplug the sd card between multiple devices.

@NathanBuildsRobots

Жыл бұрын

@@iamdmc Yeah the S1 is pretty good. Except for the screaming stock hotend cooling fan XD

@grahamturner2640

Жыл бұрын

@@NathanBuildsRobots where did you get your Volcano CHT from?

@iamdmc

Жыл бұрын

@@NathanBuildsRobots creality just wanted to encourage modding ;)

About the firmware, I've been flashing my ender 3 that came with a weird GD32 MCU compared to the usual STM32 MCU. All i have to do is instead of writing firmwarexxx to the bin file, i renamed it to GDFxxx. Works for me and i honestly don't see any problem.

I currently have an ender 3 but I can never really get the non z screw side of the arm tight enough. So I would like to buy an ender 2 however I mostly print functional stuff with asa and my preferred bed temp for that is 100°C and I believe this tops out at 80°c any chance you can fix that with a firmware update? Also love the content!

@kristian6087

Жыл бұрын

if you're printing ASA I hope you have a filter and fume extraction setup.

@NathanBuildsRobots

Жыл бұрын

As designed the Ender 3 is overconstrained. A proper design would allow left/right float on the right side z axis rail. There is a trick to get it to work perfectly, which i do on all of the printers that i assemble. You need to loosen both plates from the x gantry, then get the left and right wheel groups right, then retighten the x gantry extrusion onto the plates. It's a complicated procedure. Creality either doesn't understand the concepts, or they don't bother putting it in their manual because it's confusing. Having dual z lead screws compensates for the poor design. Any part of a mechanical assembly has 6 degrees of freedom (x,y,z, and rotational x,y,z). Ender 2 has 2 degrees that are weak(up/down, forward/backward), Ender 3 has 1 degree that is weak (up/down), and dual z machines have no clear weaknesses.

@NathanBuildsRobots

Жыл бұрын

Not sure on the temps, the refrigerator magnet sheets so working at a stone point. Would rather do 90+ on a glass bed

@Barlos69

Жыл бұрын

@@kristian6087 I don't but I run it next to a window with fans running

@Barlos69

Жыл бұрын

​@@NathanBuildsRobots I don't mind glass however, I switched to pei and don't intend on going back(I have an extra magnet and pei sheet I could cut and switch in place of the stock "fridge magnet"). I was also thinking about running an ender 2 with the ender 3 motherboard to bypass the temp problems, not sure if this would give me issue. also toying around with petg to see if it can replace my go to filament, Polymaker asa.

The problem with the fast print is material cooling, put a fan close to the printer.

what was the size of nozzle? and at what line width was it sliced at?

@iamdmc

Жыл бұрын

0.6mm?

@NathanBuildsRobots

Жыл бұрын

This one was a 1.2mm nozzle with 3mm width, 1.2mm layer height, vase mode with 3 bottom layers. I set the max volumetric flow rate to 25mm^3/s in the "filament" tab of PrusaSlicer, then increased the print speed multiplier on the 3D printer screen to increase it to 50mm^3/s, 75mm^3/s, etc.

what is the nozzle diameter of the cht volcano? is it the 0.6mm one

@NathanBuildsRobots

Жыл бұрын

The one that is installed here is a 1.2mm diameter

@jayliew

Жыл бұрын

@@NathanBuildsRobots oh thx i’ll be getting a cht soon i want to play with it and push my ender 3 s1

I really don't understand why it's complicated? If you bought a wonderful paste, then you have the opportunity to buy a normal volcano block. For better heat transfer to the nozzle, we must remove the air barrier. Any paste for the processor is suitable for this. You also need to apply the paste on the throat at the junction with the radiator. Once again I want to say that any thermal paste and any heating unit like volcano will do. You will get a fairly large flow of plastic and therefore a high print speed. I would pay attention to the extruder mechanism for stable printing with any filaments. Good luck

@ivyr336

Жыл бұрын

No. You can't use any thermal paste. The stuff for pc parts are rated for around 100c. Here we print at up to 300c. Three times the limit. You don't fuck around with limits.

You could of used the excess boron nitride as war paint

is there an anonymous "print faster" group therapy i could go to?

@NathanBuildsRobots

Жыл бұрын

Yes, they have weekly meetings at the 3D printing community center

@wenn1215

Жыл бұрын

@@NathanBuildsRobots next to the micro center?, isnt that like have an AA next to a liqure store

Some other channels have shown the application of Boron Nitride Paste to every union in the hot-end, this should not be done under any circumstances, manufacturers make their throats from low conductivity metals to stop heatcreep so the last thing you need to do is increase that conductivity between the block and the throat, personally I dont use it at all!

@NathanBuildsRobots

Жыл бұрын

The Copperhead heatbreak uses a copper upper and lower portion joined by a insulating stainless steel tube. The idea is it essentially turns the lower part of the heatbreak into a part of the nozzle. The difference in heat transfer is marginal. I think what this cht is doing makes a whole lot of sense, because it's moving the "impinging" area from the nozzle taper at the end of the nozzle, up to the top of the nozzle. The positron does a similar thing with their 90 degree angle heater block. This way, the rest of the nozzle is just mixing the filament up to give it a nice uniform consistency by the time it exits.

@AndrewAHayes

Жыл бұрын

@@NathanBuildsRobots The video I saw of Boron paste being used everywhere was a stock Micro Swiss hot-end with it applied to the nozzle thread and both ends of the heatbreak, I won't mention who it was but he should have known better, I was absolutely gobsmacked and thought he would have taken the video down after it was pointed out by myself and half a dozen other people but no, the video is still there to this day, I have a CHT nozzle that I intended to use with my Copperhead but haven't got around to using it as yet, pure laziness on my part!

@pmcquay1

Жыл бұрын

You want heat to transfer away from the top part of the heatbreak as quickly as possible. If filament melts in the top part of the break you get jams.

@NathanBuildsRobots

Жыл бұрын

@@pmcquay1 ​ @ᗩᑎᗪᖇEᗯ ᕼᗩYEᔕ Yes, but on the cold side of the hotend, you want to lower the thermal resistance as much as possible, including use of thermal compound, so it immediately dissipate any heat that makes it through the heatbreak. The optimal resistance for all components is 0, with the exception of the heatbreak, whose optimal resistance is infinity. I was working on a thermal model of the hotend system earlier this year. I want to make a online simulator that shows the effect of increasing/decreasing thermal resistance at different locations on the hotend. Things get complicated when you look at dynamic response of these thermal systems, which accounts for the thermal mass of each item, and the on/off cycle of the extruder and heater cartridge.

@pmcquay1

Жыл бұрын

@@NathanBuildsRobots your first paragraph is literally what I said.

as far as i know, even Slice does not recommend this on the nozzle.

A 100mm3/s is a LSD Land

@NathanBuildsRobots

Жыл бұрын

Acid? Limited Slip Differential?

@mmja6133

Жыл бұрын

@@NathanBuildsRobots hahaha Nono, LSD Hotend kzread.info/dash/bejne/Z6KruaqLctrao6w.html

I think you severely underestimate the bowden lol.

@NathanBuildsRobots

Жыл бұрын

You're right, i did some tests on stock bowden setup on the V2. It's not too bad! www.nathanbuildsrobots.com/testing/ender3v2 However,I never liked the print quality I get out of bowden setups above 8 mm³/s. And I'm too lazy to set up linear advance

@NathanBuildsRobots

Жыл бұрын

Compare that to the extrusion rate consistency of the S1 with the Sprite... night and day difference www.nathanbuildsrobots.com/testing/ender3s1

@Leviathan3DPrinting

Жыл бұрын

I am well aware that printing a speed benchy and phat layers are very different types of flow however keep in mind that the fastest printers in the world are bowden. Minus Vez3d but he also doesn't have the world's fastest benchy. He's slowing himself down dragging along all that weight. I think for absolutely consistency the shorter the distance between the drive rollers and the nozzle the better but even then a well (tuned) printer outperforms everything else.

@NathanBuildsRobots

Жыл бұрын

@@Leviathan3DPrinting all good points. My approach to speed is to put a monster extruder/ hotend on a basic printer. This makes my printer very fast in terms of filament feed rate, but no improvement in the print speed in terms of the speed that the print head is moving. I want to do a deep-dive on this topic, but I feel like I need at least one real speed printer, with 250+ mm/s motion system and input shaping.

I wish I was.. smart... lol

@NathanBuildsRobots

Жыл бұрын

Subscribing to my channel increases your iq by 10 pts. Each like and comment is another +1 You’ll be a genius in no time!

@Lurker1222

Жыл бұрын

@@NathanBuildsRobots OMG . I subbed today and watched and like 3 of your videos! I feel smarter already!

There is no final form 😄

Just add a motherboard upgrade to it to get around your firmware issues 🤷 Like skr e3 v3 xyxxdoodaa board

@NathanBuildsRobots

Жыл бұрын

I've got too much other cap going on, otherwise I totally would.

Please figure out how to flash the board and get better from that. You can push it you got the experience..

@NathanBuildsRobots

Жыл бұрын

We've time I try to flash firmware it takes me 20 hrs. I'm not too good at that stuff. I don't know how Chris's basement can make hour long firmware tutorial videos without throwing his printer off a bridge halfway through. I think I'm just going to swap this hotend over to my Ender 3 Pro, which should already have 300C unlocked in the firmware.

Waaaaay too much thermal paste! The voids left between threads once tightened is so minimal that you just make a huge mess and waste most of the paste when using that much.

@NathanBuildsRobots

Жыл бұрын

Debatable! If I get 1.5%more performance and it costs me $0.50 more in thermal paste, that is a price I will pay any day of the week!

@natereinhold6180

Жыл бұрын

@@NathanBuildsRobots 1.5% more performance from globbed on and making a mess that has to be wiped off (not to mention the contamination from what got squeezed out internally) vs the proper amount? That's debatable! You can only increase heat transfer based on surface area, that's what the paste does, once the voids are filled, no more can be had by using more.

wtf did i just watch, thats some low level macgyver stuff...

Waste of time. If you had bought a bimetal heat break you would have increased the melt zone and have had significantly better temperature control.

@NathanBuildsRobots

20 күн бұрын

Well, yes, but no.