To clean out the vortex just put it on a gas stove burner at low flame for a number of hours and all the carbon will turn to Ash and can be blown away.

What you should try is first get the chamber red hot running on diesel. Restrict the inlet air flow(heat exchanger) so the burn chamber quickly reaches a temp of 220 degrees or more. Then switch over to motor oil, ideally 70% motor oil 30% diesel. Start from the lowest fuel flow rate. Wmv takes more time to burn and requires a high burn temperature. Keep the fan speed on max but maintain the highest possible burn chamber temperature by partially restricting air flow over the heat exchanger. This method hopefully should give you much cleaner burn without a lot of buildup.

@danya822

Жыл бұрын

Seeing another video (kzread.info/dash/bejne/ZJ970Nqklcyth6w.html) burning hydraulic oil, and he found that keeping fan speed the same, but reducing the pump speed increased the burn temp and the stability of the burn. I don't think Storm can adjust his pump like the guy in that video. I don't see any errors in the other guys test, basically it was an unstable temp if the pump speed was above or below what the fuel seemed to want. Obviously different fuels are going to respond differently with the same settings. I also think that filtering the waste oil at 1 micron via filter bags is worth trying, to ensure most everything that enters the combustion chamber is combustible.

Oven cleaner, and I saw David McLuckie used water, by squirting water in, as it is at its highest temperature.The inside was very clean, but not the outside of the burn chamber!

Sorry to see your burn issues. I'd like to run that same 75/25% ratio too. One thing that i haven't noticed you do, although i am sure you are, is clean out that tiny though-hole next to the glow plug with a pick or something....? That hole apparently makes a huge difference to burn efficiency. Maybe not when it's running though. Don't forget that wmo also contains a percentage of ash anyway, so maybe no way around the build-up. Or could it be that this is the synthetic part of your oil that will not burn? Anyway, here's hoping you sort it out soon. Thanks very much for showing us all this.

here,s a tip for you norm ,when cleaning the burner 9.10 timestamp. .and you look down the throat of burner ,you can see the flower .GoG shaped piece at the bottom with fins , using a pick tool of some kind ,you can remove that inner ring .you would be amazed how much crap is hiding behind it , the ring is a friction fitted part .thats the one area that never gets cleaned properly and the main reason for alot of error codes :) merry xmas watch the James's Broken Tech video = Diesel Heater CLOGGED after running used hydraulic oil +cleaning . he,s the first guy i,ve seen take this ring plate out :) you,ll be surprised . i was .

@Storman77

Жыл бұрын

Much thanks and merry Christmas

When i clean them out i do it the same way i clean a diesel engine inlet, fire followed by oven cleaner. I remove the glow plug, turn the heater on cold blow ( if it has this function) so no fuel only fan, then i stick a blow torch in the GP hole and burn off what will burn off, then foaming oven cleaner and a flush out with water then finish off with brake cleaner, works fine on inlet manifolds every time, heaters it works most of the time 🤔 possibly dependant on if the inner screen is damaged ? Next step is stripping and manually cleaning it as you did 👍

Great content! Thank you. I'm on my second heater now and still fighting with it. I have an unlimited supply of used oil and would love to use it to heat my shop. I was thinking the carbon in my used oil was causing the soot and clinkers. So my last trial, I used brand new 10w-30 oil. 50/50 red diesel/oil and my burner plugged up on the first 8 litres. The crap looked just like the stuff in this video. Not giving up yet, just ordered a 3L Vevor ultrasonic cleaner and a couple more burners. Haven't tried getting at this mysterious second screen yet, that's next.

I am running my stock exhaust pipe into a 3 inch aluminum dryer vent hose up to where the chimeny goes out. Works great with no exhaust leakage into our garage and solved a problem when I was using a 1 inch 7 foot long galvanized pipe up to our chimeny. It just couldn't breath very well, clogging it up and all that ruckus.

In my experience, even with low percentages of waste oil, it eventually builds up and you need to dismantle the oil burner and do a big clean up job. So I gave up trying to burn waste oil in the chinese oil burner, the eventual clean up is just too much bother. Burn home heating oil or kerosine in the oil burner only. Mix waste oil with sawdust, burn it in the shop wood stove (not in the house, it does give off some smell) burn a bit at a time, gets rid of the engine oil waste, no mess to clean up ever, and still getting heat from waste oil, but without a big clean up job.

You found a modern way to make cinders. The reason they were used in cinderblock is they get hard. Rearranged carbon from the waste oil.

Norm, there is another wire mesh ring that you can't really see, about 60mm diameter and it lives around the burner jets. You can only get to it by chopping the burn tube/chamber up. Various people have claimed to get it cean by using oven cleaner, extreme hear etc, but for me this wasn't really successful after sessions with wmo. What I did discover and I think you have too, is that once this is clogged, the burn sessions get shorter and it all clogs up quicker on subsequent burn sessions.

@aRnEn87

8 ай бұрын

You can pull out the round plate inside the burner tube, then you can access that mesh 👌😊

caustic soda/oven cleaner (Mr Muscle) gets rid of soot and residue including hard scale, carbon clinckers Solvent won't work, the burner section will probably be made of stainless steel and would be ok however not good for Aluminium and will burn through it or use a good EGR cleaner.

@Moonlightshadow-lq4fr

Жыл бұрын

The problem using oven cleaner/sodium hydroxide is that it eats away at aluminium, ok if you only do it once in a while but it will erode in a relatively short time.

Thanks for the update.

This is copied from one other conversation.... "twisted a ball of 5m 0.25mm nichrome wire and placed it in the combustion chamber to expand the heat zone. Fuel vapor burns better as it passes through the high temperature zone. The effect was staggering. The fuel supply had to be restricted as it started to fail due to overheating. An aquarium metal tap had to be installed to limit fuel supply by 50%. Then the output has a 143c airflow at 1.6Hz and with 5l running in 27h in my variant. The fuel burns so well that there is almost no smoke from the exhaust pipe, only weak steam." And my own opinion is that WMO is too thick and flame point is too high. So my suggestion is to thin it out with gasoline 70% WMO and 30%gasoline E85. I'm using in my burner mixture of Diesel and gasoline (got it free from work) and no problems.

According to the german old school Eberspächer diesel heater manuals the pipe should be at least 1,5 m or better 2 m . The maximum pipe length is mentioned with 3 m in the Eberspächer manuals. The length of your pipe looks pretty good 👍!

This may help i see a huge difference in what is waste oil to people. If you have "Waste" as in used fryer oil, Used hydraulic oil or motor or gear oil that has mixed with water and therefore become waste that burns pretty clean. Particularly when people run the heater at its highest setting causing higher internal temps. However your type of "waste" motor oil is much more full of carbon to begin with so your importing carbon, metals and minerals all already byproducts of combustion in another engine. By thinning it out with kerosene or diesel you will increase runtime before clogging but i fear it is inevitable. Could you burn at setting h-6 with clean fuel for 30 min once a day? Perhaps that would burn off the cinders. I apologize if you have instituted that change already. I am catching up on the vids now. Above all thanks for taking us on this experiment with you and good luck.

Like you I had the same exact problem, and was very frustrated. After removing the the back of the burner and getting a bit midevil on it with picks and small tool implements. I have now been running for 4 days straight with no problems what so ever. I am running a 80/20 diesel waste oil mix. Burn chamber temp of 194/198 C and a air temp of 240F. Would love to chat with you about ongoing issues and work on solutions!!!!! Thank you for all your efforts and hard work on your video's

@Storman77

Жыл бұрын

Anytime

@allenstratton5399

Жыл бұрын

@@Storman77 Do you have a FB or Instagram I can Direct Message?

@Storman77

Жыл бұрын

@@allenstratton5399 both

@chrissullens4212

Жыл бұрын

@@Storman77 what are your advanced setting set at?

Hi. You have to pull out the "ring" /round plate inside the burner pipe. Use a 90degree picking tool or something with an angle on, its not welded, but it can be hard to get out, its a tight fit. Behind that plate is a mesh and the slots you see from behind thats full of soot. 👌😊

@Storman77

8 ай бұрын

I’ve tried that very hard I might add. Never been successful

Try ezoff oven cleaner. I got mine a week ago, I have burnt 5l of diesel mixed with 4 liters of wmo. I have not taken it apart yet. It still starts on its own, I run it full bore only. Also at the end of the burn chamber it's ringed with wire mesh which I believes works as a catalyst, like a blaze king wood stove. What I believe is wmo clogs this and prevents it from burning cleanly in the burn chamber.

Cut the vortex end off the combustion chamber above where the glow plug screws in and just below the air intake vortex fins being careful not to cut all the way through you want to keep the inside portion that gets plugs up and remove all the layered mesh that is behind the welded in plate that cant be cleaned from the burn chamber side and is constantly plugging up from burning waste oil and replace with a ring of fine stainless screen mesh about like window screen being careful not to cover the small air intake hole...Then replace the cutoff end of the vortex cap the you just cut off and drill a hole in the end plate and attach a stiff piece of wire with a loop to put the bolt thru. Bend the ends down and form a loop to attach the the combustion chamber bolts you only need to attach it to two bolts to hold the vortex end on...make sure everything has clearance and spins freely once you reassemble everything....the gasket the that is on the inside that is on the combustion chamber in is not needed....only the outer gasket is needed because the heater is a pressurized system the inner gasket really serves no purpose as is not needed....This setup should solve a lot of the problems you are now having burning waste oil and eliminate the constant cleaning you are having to do now....once you mod the combustion chamber like this you can proceed from here to refine and experiment with this modified combustion chamber to make any improvements you would like....I hope this helps

@alanbrown7155

Жыл бұрын

I'd have to watch a video of this being done. I have seen a German fella use this same idea but did not see him cut it open.

you’ll have to do that periodically. Because they’re not waste oil burners. But I’m glad to see you’re trying. Mine runs for years without any maintenance . i’m running on 75% diesel and 25% kerosene mixed. I haven’t touched it five years only run it when it’s cold. Sits all summer never turn it on for 4 mounts Works great . Cheap Chinese junk

@leiferickson713

Жыл бұрын

Oh I forgot to say it runs on medium low to medium high for almost 6 months I run it on high once an a while to make sure she burns out .about 55 gallons of diesel and like 20 gallons of kerosene a year

@Moonlightshadow-lq4fr

Жыл бұрын

You could use 100% kerosene and it will burn just as clean or better than diesel.

@leiferickson713

Жыл бұрын

Kerosene is 529 a gallon here right now. And it is designed to run on diesel. And that way the fuel pump get some lubrication. Diesel is 389 a gallon.

Oh, yes, one other thing that might help is increasing the fan speed by increasing the voltage. These apparently will run anywhere between 9v-16v so you could up the voltage with that small potentiometer on your 12v power supply. They should go up to at least 14v.

That washer thing at the of the burner comes out it's not a washer it like a cap get a thin bent screw driver or a pick put it between the middle part and the cap and just ease it out you can clean the whole chamber out these another filter thing behind the cap and that get clogged need a blow touch on to clean it should work after that,oh knock the cap back in with a large socket with a small extension on it, if you get too much unburnt diesel in the burner it will start coming out of the back plate which is what you are getting, that crap in the paper towel is what you'll find behind the cap that's why it not burning properly

On the big waste oil heaters are basically the same. But the oil has to be filtered and run on high to keep them cleaned out. Plus have your oil preheated before it goes into the heater. So I would just use some copper tubing and wrap it around your exhaust pipe a few times before it goes into the heater to get it warmed up enough to get a good ignition burn out of it. The other thing I would do is put in a y connection in the fuel line with valves on the diesel line and oil line, so you can start it up on diesel and get it to temperature and then switch it over to the oil. Then when you are ready to shut it down, do the opposite and then your system will be cleaned out and ready for the next time you need it. That's the same way we do our small diesel engines in our off road vehicles that we modified.

from my experiences making drip feed WOB's the hard black build up that's clogging it up is called coke it's forming and building up because the waist oil is entering the burn chamber where it's not hot enough to burn the coke it's just boiling it dry I found with drip feed burners keeping the dripper end cool and getting it to drop straight onto something red hot solved the coke problem maybe instead of mixing oil and diesel run on diesel at a low setting and find a way to add oil separately and extra air in a hotter part of the burn chamber

I have heard if you change the high altitude setting on it it burns the waste oil

12 months later ,and im watching this video again norm ,thinking ,would Electrolysis work ??????

@Storman77

5 ай бұрын

Ummmmm interesting. I’ll do some research

Just two word Norm, "SANDBLAST" and "AIRBLOW" good luck bro!

yesterday was my first day on waste, ended the day for an hour on high on diesel, took a half dozen tries to start this morning, 10* f , maybe the fuel(diesel) was too cold. finally got it going, warmed it for an hour didnt want to move off of 170C, switched to the waste, shot up to 216C, then settled back to 200ish. anyway something else i noticed was, i'm running (2) 5 gallon plastic fuel containers, had one on the floor and one on the shelf equal height to the heater, today i swapped the containers and whichever one was on the same level as the heater worked fine, at one point i had the diesel higher than the unit and it wouldnt run right, it would flame out after a few minutes i think it was flooding, on diesel, now their both level with the heater, there may be some issues with the relative heights respective to each other of the heater the pump and the tank. i wonder if gravity + pump is too much? you may need to lower your fuel tank. i'm doing everything i can to keep this thing over 200C. my problem also im on oil that has been sitting for over 5 years, so alot of settling and maybe offgassing, i dont know if its as potent as it should be. if you ever get that password more fan speed is another way to adjust for the exhaust length. another comment i saw somewhere was to put some vape box wire, nichrome maybe, balled up bye the glow plug and the other mesh, to hold more heat to start.

Is that rose bud pressed in?

Just watching an old David McLuckie video and he describes the build-up as sulphur and ash.

Brass brush cup wheel, if you’re in a hurry. Chuck it in a drill or impact driver

There is a screen around the inside of the burner that you cannot change without cutting the burn tube that is most likely plugged

@shanehogarth6373

Жыл бұрын

@@goysb4jays566 you are mistaking the screen in question. It's not the one that the glow plug sits in, the screen in question is around 60mm in diameter and sits around the burner jets, and indeed can only be accessed by removing the end plate of the burn chamber, either but cutting or grinding off the 4 fix points.

@yodab.at1746

Жыл бұрын

This is the problem I had. I cut mine with an angle grinder and was amazed by the amount of carbon on the big screen. I did pick it out, and used a jubilee clip to hold the two parts together again.

@lanceulbrich6249

Жыл бұрын

@@goysb4jays566 there are 2 screens one is easy the other not so much

As I know as a german engineer....its almost impossible(or to expensive)to produce a workpiece in mass production out of titanium only. Its always a composite material like titanium-aluminium or maybe titanium-steal or titanium-magnesium-aluminium or something like that!

Is there another hidden menu apart from the one 1688 gives you access to (pump and fan)? Thanks for the great videos, me and my fantastic old man have just fitted one of these to the back of our house so we are learning every day

@Storman77

Жыл бұрын

These units don’t use that 1688 unfortunately. We haven’t broken the newer style yet. I have a video up on this style

I admire your perseverance, but why are you bothering? Surely the money you save by not buying diesel is easily offset by the cost of all the parts and man hours you waste having to rebuild and clean the heater every tank or so. Maybe just get an oil drip feed on a wood burner or build a proper waste oil burner? I don't mean to be negative - your experiments on this have been interesting and informative, but at least for me they've led me to conclude it doesn't make much sense to burn waste oil in these heaters.

Has anybody routed the burn air intake across the exhaust pipe to preheat the intake air? Maybe that would help combustion?

There are multiple purposes or jobs engine oil is supposed to do. Besides lubrication, engine oil is supposed to help with heat transfer, designed to not bubble or foam (harder to atomize) and to clean the motor off engine debris, burnt fuel left overs as well what your intake filter doesn't catch. You may want to look up what black diesel users do to clean out filter their used motor oil.

. Idea is Can you DOME the cap to create A tunnel effect .

Lube oil is refined to resist oxidation and or burn . So, you are pushing water uphill.

Alot people burn waste oil with a Chinese heater and is it for real worth it because you have to clean the heater all the time, waste oil is not best fuel for that size burners, in principle you need filter that oil with 1 micron filter and add ~50-60% or diesel. I have never recommended burning waste oil with these heaters, i have used normal diesel or red diesel, no maintain need for few years and still clean chamber.

I think I told you so

@Storman77

Жыл бұрын

Lmao , Paul frankly I know what I was expecting to be honest . Why you think I ordered 3 spare burner and a spare heater . But to be honest I was anticipating 20 to 30% wmo would be the winner and well we will see soon but I am not optimistic

@TheWingnut58

Жыл бұрын

Would you be willing to share your parts supplier?

@Storman77

Жыл бұрын

@@TheWingnut58 I’ll add the links . It’s mostly EBay and Amazon . I buy some items from Espar dealer when I need other things but it’s pricy

I was on 20/80 and i had build up, maybe 10% will work but at that point its just pointless.

VEVOR Ultrasonic Cleaner 1.3L Professional Ultrasonic Cleaner with Digital Timer 40kHz Excellent Ultrasonic Cleaning Machine 110V for Jewelry Watch Ring Coin Diamond Eyeglasses Small Parts Cleaning. try using that cleaner

Soaking in seafoam will clean carbon.

Dino-diamonds?

It's running WAY too rich, since you can't get to the advanced settings you might want to consider swapping boards/controllers ....

you can increase fanspeed/airflow by Voltage Adjustment to 14V

@TheWingnut58

Жыл бұрын

The voltage going to the fan is controlled by the microprocessor, increasing the supply voltage will not only not change the fan but could damage your control board. If you want to change the air-fuel mix ratio, you should do that through the advanced settings in the controller...

@bredum

Жыл бұрын

@@TheWingnut58 it damage nothing. Your controlboard is designed for 24v max. You can change voltage in the 1688 menu to 24v og see the fan, glowplug, controlboard gets 24v. if your power supply can deliver 24v

@TheWingnut58

Жыл бұрын

@@bredum you're obviously not paying attention, this board doesn't have the "1688" access......

Start on pure diesel, get it to run greater than 200C, switch over to your WMO blend, and lean the fuel mixture as much as possible while still maintaining 220C+. I think you need to change to a controller that allows you to adjust pump rate (Hz) and fan speed (RPM) kzread.info/dash/bejne/ZJ970Nqklcyth6w.html

There is not an atom of Ti in this thing.

My heart goes out to you for your dedication and most of all your honesty. At some point in time you will inevitably come to the same conclusion that using waste oil in these is far from efficient, with all the servicing that needs doing. I burn waste oil using the same method more or less as the design here kzread.info/dash/bejne/f2R1sblvnaaahNI.html if you can put up with the awful music you can see it is really simple in design, and I can tell you it works. Not the sort of thing you would install in a camper van but for a small workshop it is ideal and will kick out far more heat than any of those chinese heaters. The container the fuel burns in does however need cleaning out every use but that is literally a 5 minute job. What would be required though, is a constant feed of oil at the same rate you require and I wonder if I could incorporate the feed system that is used in those chinese heaters so it would deliver the fuel in accurate measured amounts, something I can't do at the moment so I have to adjust the drip rate 3 or 4 times a day but it doesn't seem too much work and far less than a wood stove.

Use brake cleaner on it

@Storman77

Жыл бұрын

Didn’t do much