Don’t ever do that! It’s supposed to sit on the flange and the tile sits just above the tub deck. That way you don’t get water wicking up.

@deeeeeeps

6 ай бұрын

You still can keep it off a half inch and caulk it... Then your tile isn't floating. I watched a lot these videos and one guy showed what the code says and it says shim and go over it.

@gtbkts

6 ай бұрын

I won't be doing this at my house, I prefer a one piece, or seamless instead of tile. But, there are about a dozen ways to install and set up tile.

@aubreyjahier6003

6 ай бұрын

Thank you I was just gonna say it sits elevated to stop water wicking up your backing !!!

@tgcrissy7327

4 ай бұрын

I totally agree

There are several things wrong with overlapping flange. But furling strips on the wall? You'll have to strip the entire wall unless you want a half inch larger offset from sheetrock to tile

@alphaphoenix1938

7 ай бұрын

As he did if you watch, it's the best way to do it keeps water flowing in the right direction, literally why the tub has a flange

@rudy_2299

6 ай бұрын

Exactly

@michaelsheahan2795

6 ай бұрын

Easier to notch out studs than strip it out.

Unfortunately this is wrong

the wall should never touch the tub, not even the flange. you are guaranteeing a mildew problem doing it your way...

@OUTDOORS55

7 ай бұрын

Exactly, the backer board absorbs water. But it to the top and float the tile down to the tub and caulk the joint between the tile and tub. Nothing to absorb any water.

@Ffoo_ffighter

7 ай бұрын

@@OUTDOORS55 So what do you for the space in between?

@nicks3037

7 ай бұрын

​@@Ffoo_ffighterI'm assuming he fills that area with the caulk

@deangullberry2420

7 ай бұрын

​@@OUTDOORS55that's how I did my first one, and i was guessing

@vvsmixing

7 ай бұрын

⁠@@OUTDOORS55the backerboard should receive no moisture if you install tile down to 1/4 gap then silicone

Put some blocking between studs and then put the concrete board 1/16-1/8 above the flange with silicone in between, and the tile can come down over the flange

The tile is the only thing that goes down to the tub deck...the "material" is supposed to be on top of the flange...the first scenario is correct

@homerepairguy1

7 ай бұрын

❤

@cjp8699

7 ай бұрын

NO.... not even the tile touches the deck! Bunch of unlicensed Kooks on here shooting their mouths off

@homerepairguy1

7 ай бұрын

@@cjp8699 anybody can buy a business license what's your point

@wasntme3651

7 ай бұрын

@@cjp8699 Haha licensing doesn’t mean 💩either. If you need a license to know what you said then that is funny.

@wasntme3651

7 ай бұрын

Technically the tile is the material

Always have it on top of the flange.

@Louthemailman

8 ай бұрын

The way he is doin it is correct never go on the top

@ThegratefulC

8 ай бұрын

@@Louthemailmandepends on who you’re asking actually lol there are so many different tiling methods that work you just need to choose the best one for your situation. My wall sits above the flange…

@richardpellis

8 ай бұрын

Not always possible in a remodel when you have adjoining walls, and no way to shim out the rest of the bathroom wall then extra 1/2". Such as an alcove tub.

@beneg417

7 ай бұрын

​@@Louthemailmanhe just put it on the top though.

@uncleremus7380

7 ай бұрын

No weeping.

You don’t want your concrete boards sitting in a seam of water 365!

@trujillo71921

7 ай бұрын

My exact thought as soon as I seen what he was doing.

@chrismitchell6441

7 ай бұрын

Come on, we know this guy's a hack

@BonBon770

7 ай бұрын

What is this you speak of?

@travisdoe4663

7 ай бұрын

No vapor barrier on the framing either😮

@BonBon770

7 ай бұрын

@@travisdoe4663 It depends on where you are vapor barrier. It is an old school method and in Florida vapor barrier. Actually trapped in moisture. I've seen plastic vapor barriers and tar-like membranes. And just like any old old old house. It has to breathe. so I don't and we don't believe in vapor barriers. And showers unless it's a steamshower or something.

Keep the board up off the lip and let the tiles dip down over. Seal bottom edge of tile to tub.

@BathroomRemodelingTeacher

7 ай бұрын

Or put a bead of sealant to maintain a gap and waterproof the entire board

@ericredelman2568

7 ай бұрын

@@BathroomRemodelingTeacheryes, keep reinventing the wheel, as if that flange isn’t there for a reason

@brody6634

6 ай бұрын

​@@ericredelman2568😂😂😂😂

I wudnt let cement board touch tub after u overlap, it will wick over time when the silicone fails, sit on the flange is much better or use other type of board like goboard.

No no no. This guy really can't be serious. Put your board on tub deck and water will wick, trap moisture and mold. Been doing this stuff for forty years.

@BathroomRemodelingTeacher

8 ай бұрын

40 years wow 🤩

@carbb5760

7 ай бұрын

I’ve never seen it done this way or had anyone recommend doing it this way in 20 years. Realistically it’s probably fine just not the way tub enclosures are set up to be finished

@travisdoe4663

7 ай бұрын

​@@BathroomRemodelingTeacher He's absolutely right you know... Tile backer wicks moisture like crazy. And if you use the cheap stuff like "fiberock" It's gonna soak up water and fall apart on you. Also where is your vapor barrier on your framing? At the very least you should be putting tar paper on the studs, especially if you're not gonna seal the tile backer with a waterprooffer.

@BathroomRemodelingTeacher

7 ай бұрын

@@travisdoe4663 so glad you watched the full video 😆 Redgard Waterproofing | Troweling Vs Rolling | Tile Tub Surround kzread.info/dash/bejne/eWmo2rR6ocvYfpM.html

@travisdoe4663

7 ай бұрын

@@BathroomRemodelingTeacher so you regarded the edge of the backer before you put it up?

The flange itself is water proof. If the grout chips, the water will wick up the board.

@chipburns4123

3 ай бұрын

Grout isnt waterproof.

As many already commented, you should keep the cement board about 1/16 - 1/8 inches above the flange with waterproof sealant in-between. Since the cement board is porous, the water that does reach it can soak through the back and damage the studs and create mold. As a precaution I always staple roofing paper to the studs first, being sure to wrap around the inside corners. Its also good practice to cover the top of the cement board with a waterproofing membrane. Ive pulled down way too many tub surrounds due to moisture oroblems from improper installation. If youre going to use vement board instead of floating the wall, be sure to check for deflectoon across the studs and levelness if the studs. Shim/shave the studs to get a level, flat and plumb surface.

Problem now is your outside trim edge is beyond the drywall you’re supposed to flush up to. Try using furring strips to lessen the gap.

And he pulls out the battery-powered caulking gun!! You know he's slinging the caulk like a rock star!!

You can also put tar paper behind the board... then do what you did.. even added protection water proof the board..

Is not supposed to touch at all. The tile comes down to meet the tub and even that doesn't touch, only caulking.

you just taught us how to wick moisture 4 inches up that board.

@BathroomRemodelingTeacher

7 ай бұрын

Yeah that 1/4” bead of sealant is thirsty

@antoncarmichael4595

7 ай бұрын

yeah ok... that will definitely fail

@hoperules8874

6 ай бұрын

yup-with a chip board "shim" on all the studs...

Wonderboard is for shade tree mechanic tile Setters who do not know how to float out a tub with sand and cement.. the problem with wonderboard is if the wall is out of square once you put the wonderboard on and tile the walls .. the walls will be out of square and noticeable.. when you start off with a half inch cut and end up with a 2.5 inch cut up against the wall it shows just how out of square the walls are ..if you floated out the walls with sand and cement everything is plum and square the back wall has the same cuts and the side walls have the same cut with a 4-in leg down the side of the tub .. Old School..

Ive definitely seen your videos where you do on top of the flange

Cement board may be waterproof, but moisture will wick through. The substrate will not be damaged, but the framing members behind it might be damaged

Lol now you're going to have to furr that entire wall out. Genius idea.

@gthomas5249

6 ай бұрын

I’m disturbed with the thought of how many people will actually use his second piece of advice and then run into schluter/tile issues when the bottom row of the return walls are 1/2” proud

Yes. run shims from top to bottom. Makes it so much nicer

If you cut the cement board at a 45° angle at the bottom it will slide right down onto the tub leave a 1/8 off of the tub Fort Carson or silicone.

@briansmith3191

7 ай бұрын

Still wrong...hard enough cutting cement board at 90 degrees let alone at 45 degrees...the cement board or any backer board product never goes on top of the tub...flange at best...even that should have a small gap

To each their own, but I wouldn't do it that way. I use flashing tape on the tub flange then put the rock board on flush to tub flange then you can add sealant to the underside of the rock board. Then tile can fit directing on the surface of the tub.

TNCA recommends shimming the wall to allow the board to lap over the flange on a tub or shower pan. The sealant and waterproofing membrane are best practices too. Good info

a vinyl j channel bottom of wall board makes good moisture barrier

Backer stays above the flange always and tile on down further. If you get a water breach you will not saturate the backer since it will be be elevated

❤ that way using chimes.

I thought it wasnt supposed to touch the tub..like a 1/8 gap

Sit it on the flange. Use wide DUROCK tape and skin with a good thinset. It won't break bond after tiled. I know cause I've been back to houses I tiled 40 years ago. I work on a resort island. I've tiled the same houses 2 or 3 times because people remodel , hurricane damage and new owners.

i used a little dip edge from the wall and down over the tub flange just a bit. the tile board comes down to the top of the tub flange, and the tile comes down almost to the tub deck, but enough to cover the drip edge.

that hardy board will wix water that way I use roofing nails/drywall whichever let the backer board sit on the nails let the tile go down to the tub you can throw fortified mortar mix behind that tile .No pre mix can't be used in showers

I love when tilie comes into the tub

Okay if your using Kerdi or go-board but everything else wicks water and rots joists and causes mold and tile failure. Set it on the lip, overlap tile and seal it with 100% silicone.

I put my board on the wall first, silicone in between the tub and board, start my tile about an eighth of an inch off the ledge using spacers, and roll with it. In the end I also silicone that bottom space as well.

I don't want the backer board down on the tub because id decreases the rim of the tub by 1/2 inch . I'd rather have the backer board flush with that tab or slightly ahean , and then I let the tile come all the way down of the tub . If it is slightly ahead then when you trowel the mortar on to set the tile that gets filled in , and the rim around the edge of the tub is wider .

@DIANOMICS

5 ай бұрын

The whole wall is ½ in bigger due to paywall shims he used under cement board. Most customers don't like to see steps of material. On wall just smooth finish.

Excellent, thank you!!

But now the wall will wick up the water on the tub deck?

Hi teacher, just suggested, should be a black paper behind, just saying 😉 happy new year

I would think . Not sure but it seems like u would want the " Hardie " to sit down on the tub passed the lip with of course sealant at least 6 inches (?) up then of course use spacers off the tub on the first row of tile . Am I correct?

That’s exactly how I do it and it turns out great

Yeah, because in a couple years when the wall cracks from the tub settle in because you got it on the flange, it’s supposed to be off the material

The space between the head wall and back wall should be 61 1/2" for the permabase or Hardie board to be installed behind the tub at all 3 sides.

put nail/screws above flange to rest wall board on... create drip edge.

Do it the first way so that the Durock isn’t wicking water up behind the tile, and so that the plumber isn’t cursing your name when he finds out you shimmed the wall out and his valve trim won’t fit without an extension kit (if there’s even one available from the valve manufacturer)

I followed my tubs installation instructions which said to go on top of the flange, then keep it secured and flush with the tub using washers. Then I did mortar on the seam with a couple layers of waterproofing membrane on top of that.

@BathroomRemodelingTeacher

5 ай бұрын

Bravo 👏

How to increase the chance of water migrating upward behind your backerboard and into your wall. This is the type of conclusion that people come to when they stop brainstorming to soon. The light bulb flickers in the brain and it's an immediate eureka moment, thoughtfulness ends at that exact moment.

He cant be serious? Is this satire?

How to you like your electric caulk gun compared to traditional?

No. The dura rock will wick water. Better to but board to tub and then run the tile down to the tub leaving room to grout tiles. The gap will give water someplace to go besides into the wall.

Why are waterproofing porous durock which is not waterproof can you explain ?????

If that is durock or any other 100% cement board, this is fine. However you can't do that with HardieBacker. Hardibacker has to sit one eighth of an inch above the flange.

You don’t want concrete board, there are much better products for shower walls. Also board should stay above the flange. It’s a great idea to seal it, but it only needs a small bead of silicone between the flange and the board, no need to pump it full like the video.

I was told that you shouldn't touch the sheet to the tub. That way if you do develop a leak it won't climb up the board. But I didn't ever read that anywhere just was told by a tile guy.

Thank you

YES, like you did is best. ALWAYS let water flow down hill. Trust me, it will find a way in through any caulking you try the other way.

Keep it off the tub deck, if u dont do that, it ensures wicking up the cement bord

3 piece tub surround kits have provisions that cover top flange of tub

I prefer on top of the flange. I do not agree with padding the wall out, especially with garbage particle board that reacts horribly in moist environments.

@roberto.peterson9917

7 ай бұрын

particle board not good for high moisture area use a good cdx plywood expensive but won't need to replace in 5;yrs

Yes, it’s wrong, as everyone has said, it should touch the tub or shower pan. But, if you insist on doing use a router at the bottom of the 2x4s prior to installing the tub or shower base. But I don’t recommend it.

Whenever installing cement boards you need to have membrane behind it attached to the studs.

What happens on the side wall when the shims pushes the backer board past the drywall? I was also taught to never let backer board come close enough to water to wick it up. I like the 1st method.

Shim the wall! Always want Durock and tile over flange. 👍

Lap the flange and you will never change the tub without demolishing the bottom along the cement board.

@anthonyrodrigues5032

7 ай бұрын

well tile goes all the way down anyways.

@mikeevans6589

7 ай бұрын

@@anthonyrodrigues5032I can pop those off, plus always keep a number of tiles as back up

Is that the wedi sealant?

Aluminum drip cap works as well.

On flange but an 1/8” gap above it.

Wait...did an American/Canadian just call it... sealant? Finally! 👏🏼👏🏼😎

I just razor the back of the board a bit but I still seal the bottom I feel with the shims the bottom tile will be off

So, ah...no. ANYTIME you are using silicone as your main waterproofing, it WILL FAIL. IDGAF what it is. Backerboard is put near the tub, taped over with join tape, sealed with mortar, sealed with kerti/aquadefence/redguard/etc., mortar and tile, grout and sealed last with a HAIR of silicone just to fill the gap so water doesn't have ANYWHERE to go but in the tub.

@richardpellis

8 ай бұрын

I can see how the alkali resistant joint tape may stick to the fiberglass, but does the mortar stick as well?

@princeholiday2126

8 ай бұрын

I did this today in fact. I use high strength mesh tape and I put it over every single seam, and use mortar and a drywall knife to push mortar in-between the the tape, joint, drywall, tub, whatever. It turns everything into one piece of basically concrete. The tape wont come out, it breaks before it comes loose. But I do bury it in mortar when I cover my back-off board screws. I find if you do the seams last when the mortar is less runny you can pack joints like grease in bearings and its the strongest part of the shower. Then cover it all in Aqua Defense and then back to mortar and tile, then grout. Its all step by step. I have been replacing showers one at a time in a 80 unit apartment complex that has 40 year old tile showers. I'm soon to be half way through and haven't had one crack, break, leak, nothing. And if they were going to... I figured section 8 housing would be the best test of strength you can give something. @@richardpellis

Although shimming it will work, it will definitely show in the tile later.

So now the tile is going to flare out on the wall when it gets over the tub flange. You would have to shim out all of those studs at the same thickness for this to actually work

So do you then have to shim the rest of the way up the wall???

this when cold stone epoxy shower or bath tub surround have advantages or even pre Made surrounding that don't need wall cover because use/ need studs uncovered

THANKS SOLDIER

Wonder board

Lining butted to top of flange with bead of sealant. Tiles lapping down with bead of sealant. 2 beads of sealant, no leaks, happy owner. You’re welcome. Next.

Water can go up the wall if you do it that way. Just have the tile and grout touch the tub. Water will not go up the tile.

yup...rip 3/8" or whatever ya need, Masonite, plywood, even mason lath.

Do you carve a lip onto the back of the cement board?

@DCxRecon

8 ай бұрын

That’s how I did mine and while it came out pretty clean, it was a chore to do. If I had it to do over I would have shimmed the studs to have the whole cement backer forward of the tub flange. Don’t let the board rest on the flange and bring your tile to about 1/8” above the tub. Tile over and silicone that 1/8” gap.

Yo veo muchas opiniones de cómo se debe de hacer el trabajo pero todos dan su manera de de hacerlo y muchos son de profesión pero eso no les hace profesionales porqué muchos no fueron a una escuela para aprender y yo muchos errores de muchos , debería de venir un inspector a ver si está bien y todavía así lo dudo 😅

Never rest your board on the tub deck, it will wick up moisture and cause mold issues inside the cavity. The lip is there for a reason.

I put it on top of flange and let the tile make it water proof

Yo voy por la segunda opción o hay que poner toda la pared 😊

That creates two angles in the corner giving the tile setter the job of making the corner appear proper.

That's why the wall looked warped when putting on tiles. Now I know because it wasn't leveled, and I couldn't figure out why.

I always preferred to just frame the dang thing right in the first place but to each his own.

Lol, put sealant and set at the top of the flange …what are you going to do? Shim the rest of the whole wall so it lines up?

Fur the wall out the thickness of the flange

humm... where I live they just checkout a 30mm x 30mm inset chunk out of the 90x45s. That swallows the "little bit of the lip".

The most overkill thing I've ever seen was a guy that would double up all of his studs that went around the bathtub, and then route out notches exactly the size and depth of the bathtub flange all the way around. It sure as hell got the job done, but took a lot longer and a lot more materials. He was the king of overkill though

use a 1 piece tub with surround then non of water and edge issues

If you. Shim out wall 1/4 lnch and so there is no bend in wall

Right, but then you have the problem of build out on the left and right wall. The backwall is fine because it's gonna get buried in the 2 sidewalls . but you're gonna have a build out now....

@BathroomRemodelingTeacher

8 ай бұрын

Yes, typically only a problem if you are keeping existing drywall, otherwise shimming out all walls is no biggie

@BonBon770

8 ай бұрын

@BathroomRemodelingTeacher Never had a problem doing it this way . on top of the flange. make sure it's screwed really good everywhere. Obviously, if you're doing the dry floor make sure the tub gets a little thin set underneath it. I know it sounds funny, but it makes the tub sturdy. Which helps with cracking in the future. So with concrete board. Set on top of the flange and screwed, then put thin set. Then your concrete tape then thin set again. Wait for to dry overnight and tape off The tub and liquid water proof it with S1K 👍

@Steve-kf1lx

8 ай бұрын

@@BonBon770 I set all of my tubs in a bed of mortar, it makes for a rock solid tub bottom that will likely never crack due to deflection.

@BonBon770

8 ай бұрын

@@Steve-kf1lx Yes, I agree on the tub part . but I just hate build out on the left side of the wall. That's what your video was originally about. Shimming out the studs.

@nicholasmarroquin5361

7 ай бұрын

So both ends will look different??? What do you for the extra 1/2” for the ply wood?

No that is incorrect sir. You always install your wallboard on top of the flange. That flange is your waterproofing. Also although it doesn't like drywall does cement board still wicks moisture.

Dura Rock or more commonly known as "instant cancer"

That water will wick. Sealant or not. Always above the flange 1/8 inch. I'm certified in tile and multiple systems.

That's the FIRST TIME EVER seeing a wireless caulking gun!

@kkennyn2

7 ай бұрын

Where have you been, I've had one for 5 years

Butt it to the.top.of the tub and seal it. Shimming the back wall throws off the sheetrock butting up to the hardi.