Casting 3D Print In Epoxy Resin (Glasslike Translucent Bubble Free High Gloss Finish)
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Hi everyone! To celbrate 4000 followers on Instagram I decided to cast this 3D printed logo in epoxy resin. That way the 3d printed object (or could be something of your choice) Is floating in a clear bubble free epoxy casting.
To create the Instagram logo I designed the logo in fusion 360. By extruding some sketches I go to the logo I’ve used here.
The Instagram logo was printed on my Creality Ender 3 S1. I’ve you’ve missed my review video or want to know more about it check the video on following link. • Creality Ender 3 S1 - ...
As For the 3D printing filament I’ve used MagicPLA from 3Djake www.3djake.com/3djake/magicpl...
As For the Carbon Fiber printbed you can find a link here to watch the full video I’ve made previously
• Making A Carbon Fiber ...
The logo was printed with a 0.4 nozzle and 0.12 layer height in Magic PLA. The mouldbox was printed with a 0.8 nozzle and a 0.6 layer height.
Once the prints were ready I created a buildplate to bond the print on. First I’ve used some chemical release agent ‘easylease’ from Easycomposites. By doing so I ensure I can remove the back to pour the second layer later on. The 3D printed mouldbox was also coated with a layer of release agent out of spraycan. This will help to remove the 3D printed mouldbox later on. Gaps from the 3D print were filled using some UV resin and a UV flashlight. The last thing you want is a leaking mouldbox. As mentioned in the video you could make a moulbox from any material you want (mostly melamine or plastic sheets)
Once the mouldbox was ready, the seams were filled with hot glue to prevent leaks. The 3D printed logo was bonded to the baseplate as well using UV glue again. Just fixed it on a few spots to prevent it from floating or moving around once the epoxy resin was poured.
As for the epoxy resin, Glasscast 50 was used from easycomposites or Glasscast. You can find a more detailed information of the product on following website. www.easycomposites.eu/glassca...
Make sure to degass your resin prior pouring and after pouring it in the mouldbox for best results.
If your not familiar with epoxy resins, make sure to do some test samples first and read as much information as needed. The most important thing to know, when working with epoxy resins, is that epoxy resin is a mixture of an A & B resin. Once mixed it will cure to a hard material. Most important to know is that not all epoxy resins have the same formulation. Some are made to cure fast, other slow, some are fully clear some are not. Glasscast 50 is specialy formulated for deep pours like river tables and objects. If you’re not using the resin in the right way or have to high ambient temperatures the resin will go in an exothermal state causing it to generate heat in an exponential curve. This results in yellowing or burning of your resin, shrinkage, bubbles, and cracks.
The reason I was able to cast in such big volume is due to low ambient temperatures in the workshop at the moment being 12°C. This will cause the resin to slowly cure (more than 48 hours in my case)
Once the first layer has cured the baseplate is removed, any trapped bubbles were removed and the back was sanded to create a good bonding surface for following layers comping on top.
A new mouldbox was printed and applied on the back the same way as the first one. Some glasscast 50 was mixed again and poured in the mouldbox. The fresh coat of resin will fill the sanding scratches and in my case the airpockets as well. Make sure to degass your resin prior pouring and after pouring it in the mouldbox for best results.
Once cured the mouldbox is removed, thanks to using a good release agent I was able to remove the mouldbox in a good way. Now the fun part starts….sanding. First I removed the sharp edges of the cast by hand sanding the edge. This will prevent to cut sanding paper on your sanding machine. First all edges were flattened and the texture of the 3D print was removed. For the Finer sanding I started with a 150P followed by 220P 350P 500P 800P with cleaning the part inbetween sanding.
For the finishing layers a 1000P wet sand was done followed by a 2000P sanding. For the polishing I’ve used a fine polishing compound for best results.
Facebook: / mat2composites
Instagram: matthieulibeert
twitter: @matthieutje65
web/mail: www.mat2composites.com
#Epoxy #3D #Resin
Пікірлер: 49
Looks cool! Next time consider printing a solid layer at the bottom which hold everything toghether perfectly aligned, you can then sand it off once the resin is cured! This could also combine the first outside mould!
@MatthieuLibeert
2 жыл бұрын
Correct :D thanks for the input
🤯🤯🤯🤯🤯🤯🤯 blowing my mind right now. Cant believe I wasnt subscribed.
@MatthieuLibeert
2 жыл бұрын
Thanks! Welcome!
Dat eindresultaat ziet er echt supermooi uit, ook mooi met dat dual-color filament :) Goede video weer!
@MatthieuLibeert
2 жыл бұрын
Thanks! Leuk te horen dat je het leuk vond!
That looks fantastic!
@MatthieuLibeert
2 жыл бұрын
Thanks!
Beautiful results
@MatthieuLibeert
2 жыл бұрын
Thank you ;)
beautiful work and result..!
@MatthieuLibeert
2 жыл бұрын
Thanks!
Looks awesome! 👍
@MatthieuLibeert
2 жыл бұрын
Thanks! Glad you like it!
Please next Diamond Play Button Resin🙏🏻 🇮🇩
@MatthieuLibeert
2 жыл бұрын
Will see what I can do ;)
nice
@MatthieuLibeert
2 жыл бұрын
Thank you! :D
Great work, I think I may ask you to make a special car lamp for my project!
That filament looks great floating there. Would be interesting to hear more about the UV resin issue with the glasscast (is that due to different optical indexes or just a general problem with having UV set resin bonding with epoxy resin?)
@MatthieuLibeert
2 жыл бұрын
It's more of a different translucency the UV resin has...it has a slightly different color and less translucent/clear than the epoxy. Not really a problem of compatibility
Fantastic work, well done
@MatthieuLibeert
2 жыл бұрын
Many thanks!
@theboilershop1728
2 жыл бұрын
@@MatthieuLibeert please let me know if you have a rebuild video of your printer.
@MatthieuLibeert
2 жыл бұрын
@@theboilershop1728 Not 100% sure of what you mean but this is and Ender 3S1 in stock configuration. Only changed the printbed to one I've made myself, you can find the link to that video in description. If you want to see my review of this Ender 3S1 search for "Creality Ender 3 S1 - Good or bad?! Review and examples"
@theboilershop1728
2 жыл бұрын
@@MatthieuLibeert oh ok, i thought it was a full rebuild it looks very slick. I will look it up. Are you happy with the machine?
@MatthieuLibeert
2 жыл бұрын
@@theboilershop1728 I'll do some upgrades later, but out of box this is a very good printer I personally think! I have some examples in my review video if interested 😉
Is there any way to minimize the ridge that the resin leaves on top of the pour?
Lovely! maybe next time try to have the layer start and end points at the inside of the models in stead of the outside to avoid the seam :-) ?
@MatthieuLibeert
2 жыл бұрын
yes could have been better indeed :)
@aleks138
2 жыл бұрын
Vase mode doesn't have start/stop lines
@xeraoh
Жыл бұрын
@@aleks138 vase mode is only one perimeter, would look much better to put the seam line the opposite side of the text (Seam Painting in the slicer)
That's pretty cool Matt thank 😁 what polishing mop did you use of your bench grinder/polisher...... is that a sisal mop? Its been about a decade since I done any metal polishing so I've forgotten which mop is which🙈😅
@MatthieuLibeert
2 жыл бұрын
To be honest I wouldn't know, I just bought it with the mops on it :D
you should have printed them in vase mode, no seams, much smoother and consistent layers too.
@MatthieuLibeert
2 жыл бұрын
Correct! But wanted to print them all at once. Would have had to printed all parts seperately otherwise and the pieces would have been very thin (just one layer now 3), but could work as well indeed!
@MegaMaking
2 жыл бұрын
@@MatthieuLibeert you can actually trick your slicer to think your nozzle size is larger, just by setting the nozzle size to .6 or larger. iirc, 0.6 should be perfectly doable on most .4 nozzle with .1mm layer height given that you are not printing too fast.
The Glasscast resin is beautiful. Unless you will be using the hot glue again, it comes off parts really easy if coated with Isopropyl Alcohol. How much shrinkage was there with the Glasscast resin?
@MatthieuLibeert
2 жыл бұрын
Shrinkage is good with glasscast. Just a bit but in an ok way
Mooi gemaakt Matt. Hoe dik kan je deze giethars in één keer gieten? Als je Bv een 2de laag moet gieten omdat u stuk te hoog is, moet je de eerste laag dan even schuren al vorens je de 2 de laag giet? Die giethars ziet er ook zeer klaar uit. Matt heb je liever dat ik mijn vragen of commentaar in het engels schrijf? Dan moet ik het wel doen met een vertaal programma
@MatthieuLibeert
2 жыл бұрын
Maakt niet uit in welke taal, nederlands is goed voor mij! Je kan met deze hars tot +/- 30mm gieten maar hangt allemaal wat af van volume/hoeveelheid je giet. Glass Cast van Easycomposites heeft nu ook een hars die je nog dikker kan gieten "Glasscast 50 PLUS" die je tot 80mm kan gieten in ideale omstandigheden. Indien mogelijk altijd best opschuren of nieuwe laag rechtstreeks gieten als de eerste gieting nog niet 100% is uitgehard (dus binnen de 24u ongeveer)
So this resin wont melt pla? because im trying to find a resin that i can poor into a pla print that has spots for resin to be different colors but i cant find a resin that wont melt pla?
@MatthieuLibeert
2 жыл бұрын
No epoxy resin wont melt pla. What might cause it to melt is the exothermal reaction creating heat of your not using the right epoxy... For thicker larger pours like here you need a deep cast epoxy resin like used in the video
what is the model of the model of the sander you used?
@MatthieuLibeert
2 жыл бұрын
Mirka Deros
you should invest in a resin printer. seam tuning is needed aswell. great cast
@MatthieuLibeert
2 жыл бұрын
It's on the list as for the next purchase 😉 the seam wasn't to clean indeed, but this was more about the resin casting so didn't matter to much I thought