Building the TotalBoat Sport Dory: Episode 20 - Carbon and Kevlar
We're back on our TotalBoat Sport Dory build and this week it's time to lay our final layer of Carbon Kevlar hybrid cloth over the bottom of the boat. The first side is already layed up and dry and we're going to run the other side up on top of that so they overlap in the middle. The first step is to wet out the bottom with our glue, we're using TotalBoat 2:1 High Performance Epoxy Resin again with the medium hardener. Once we have given that a good stir we're going to head over to the boat and spread the glue all over the entire exposed surface so it has a chance to soak up some of the epoxy. When we feel confident we have good coverage we're going to roll out our pre-cut piece of 7oz carbon kevlar hybrid weave on top of our bottom, making sure to line up that stitched edge of the cloth with the end of the Garboard plank seem. Then we're going to take a plastic trowel and work the cloth into the correct position so it lays down as flat as possible. Lastly we're going to mix up one final batch up epoxy resin and spread that on top of the cloth to make sure it's fully saturated and exactly where we want it before letting it dry overnight. Now that was a big step and strong solution to an age old problem, that should hold the boat together and protect the bottom when it gets pulled up the beach. Don't forget to visit us and come see the Sport Dory at the Jamestown Distributors tent sale, Saturday April 14, 8am-3pm in Bristol, RI.
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Пікірлер: 187
Thanks for the tips Louis, it's rare to find an artist willing and patient enough to share the tricks of their craft. We're learning a lot and appreciate you letting us peek into the shop.
Your TV shows are the best. Don't ever stop. I look forward to the next episode.
Lou, I love the knowledge and insight you give in every video. I especially love the question and answer videos! I've dreamed of building a boat since I was just a kid. I think with some help from your videos I may be able to get it done. It'll be like the work skiff in your first series but there is so much good information in all of these videos. I can't get enough! Thank you and keep up the great work!
Thanks Louis. It's a privilege to watch your videos.
This is so cool I have no words! Thank you for sharing this with the world Lou! I'll be 68 in a few days and for decades I've dreamed of building a boat. I purchased some boat plans but it's a basic build and I know already I won't be satisfied with the end product even if I do it perfectly. Your series has given me the information and confidence to built a boat that I know I'll love. I realize it won't turn out perfect but it will be a competent build thanks to you buddy! I just rented some shop space and the project begins pretty soon; thanks again my friend!
This one of the best videos I have seen to demonstrate laying up fabric and epoxy.
Great video Lou. Such an honor to learn from you.
Hi Loe, it's nice to see step by step how the boat will be completed and when you use different techniques than that of using traditional methods.we have to wait for the next video. See you soon. Greetings from Salo Finland
Happy to see you again. Don’t worry about the critics who worship instant gratification. LOL. I think that your extended build times and detailed explanations are necessary to explain the complexity of this technique you’ve come up with. One of the reasons my projects turn out 10 times better these days than in the past is that at 74 I’ve become more patient.
I just found the series today and I'm just blowing through this. Great work and love the way its coming together
Great job in working with the Kevlar Lou! I know from experience how difficult it can be especially around sharp corners.This is really looking great!
Absolutely perfect. I used to make composite fibre hovercrafts in the very early days of composite building all of your thoughts and techniques are mind-blowingly similar if not perfect absolute respect for working it all out for yourself. Much respect. Honestly even your material choice is beyond the thoughts of the norm.. In my day we used low stiffness Kevlar to mould and have flexibility strength and cabin and glass as riggitity strength but some materials like silicone and boron haven't been incorporated as much .. Awesome channel keep up the fantastic work..
This really helps me as I flail around - complete rookie - with fiberglass tape on my little S&G fishing boat. Thanks Lou!
This is like it was when I was a kid waiting each week for my favorite TV show, only this was educational as well as entertaining! Thanks. ....13
Fan freaking tastic job. Love this build series.
It's looking beautiful, Lou.
Very detailed description as to what is happening!! Great videos!!👍👍
This layer, and those corners, seem like a great candidate for vacuum bagging. - if you do any amount of composite work, it can be a good investment to pick up some tools for that kind of thing.
@forthwithtx5852
6 жыл бұрын
Yes. This is my area. I see the surf board makers relying on simple wet layup methods, but ultimately, vacuum bagging is the way to go for low resin/high strength laminates.
@oleanderson3693
6 жыл бұрын
Seems really difficult to bag such an odd, hollow shape as the boat. Paddle board would be easy.
@RealLuckless
6 жыл бұрын
Ole Anderson not hard at all if you use tape seam bagging. You just need a mostly air tight cover over the part you're doing, so it isn't unusual to tape a sheet over the part to draw vacuum under.
@TyphoonVstrom
6 жыл бұрын
That would be pointless to bag. A lot of effort for very little gain. It's just too small and complex to make it worthwhile from a time standpoint. Would've easily doubled the time it took to do. You would also have to pre treat with resin and let it cure. If you tried to bag directly over untreated timber, I can guarantee you'd pull a lot of air out of the timber itself, and probably wick a lot of air in around the edges- it would be difficult to seal those boards at the edge. if I had to suggest anything, it would've maybe been to use peel ply, but again, it's such a small area, and Louis did such a good job with the trowel, that the gain would've been insignificant.
@mickcoomer9714
5 жыл бұрын
That’s a big job for vacuum bagging.
Hi Louis....I love watching your videos, you impress me with your passion about what you do, I can see that you really enjoy it...you are really an excellent instructor...so from sunny Barbados Caribbean all the best
Thanks Louis, looking forward to seeing the next instalment.
To CLARIFY - the proper way to use the MIXING CUPS for MEASURING RESIN is Here - Using the 2:1 example - find the column for the 2:1 ratio - and you use the SAME number in both columns. So if he wants to go to 4 - he fills the resin using the left column to the 4 and then the hardener using the RIGHT column to the 4. use the same # in both columns. it's made to make your pouring and measuring easier. Thanks to Lou and Halsey for another great video.
@justinr.8686
6 жыл бұрын
it is mentioned you dont know how much resin to use, the typical way is to proportion it by weight. you weigh your cloth and you weigh your resin and use an appropriate ratio.
@glencoad737
6 жыл бұрын
Thank you for clarifying the way he was using the cup was driving me nuts.
Pretty work !!
@TipsfromaShipwrightvideos
Жыл бұрын
Thank you!
Working out nicely Louis ;) Thanks for sharing!
Another great job. Can't wait to see how it turns out. Keep up the great work.
@davidgriffin14
6 жыл бұрын
at the rate this is going it might be 5 years from now!
Looks great Lou!
Great video Lou.
For whatever its worth and old trick in the model airplane world:1 - spray the cloth with cheap lacquer based hair spray which keeps the weave from moving around so much, 2- put some low tack tape like blue painters tape where you want your cut to be, 3 - draw your cut line on the tape with a sharpie and make your cut through the tape. I peel the rest of the tape off once the epoxy stars to harden. I bought some scissors made especially to cut kevlar. The hair spray seems to just go away when you start to wet out the cloth. I'm a big fan of your channel.
Nice work Lou.
I loved to work and indeed is a great idea for construction. I would remember that less resin as possible gives strength , more resin , it gets brittle. so sometimes you don't have to cover all the cloth but bring the wet resin from the underside up, we have to work the resin out. almost like if there isn't enough resin there. that way the cloth will only be stronger for every new layer of cloth you apply . massiv work, to bring it out indeed, but because this idea od sandwiching and overlapping is so good I thought it would be worth mention it, mainlr because I do believe you would have a less harder time with the overlapping later on in the process, less material between the wood and the canbon layer. irt was a great video . thank you
What a great job!!👏
Well done Lou .Tom from Canada
Great video. Very hi-tech. I hear NASA and SpaceX are watching these videos, to see how it's done. New horizons in traditional boat-building.
Just a side note, but that stitched edged is called the "selvage" and is the edge of the fabric as it's woven. I'm sure Lou knows that, but as a costume maker and tailor, if I can make a seam with the selvage at the seam, it cuts my finishing time in half. Good job!
@justinr.8686
6 жыл бұрын
typically in composites manufacture you discard the selvage and never use it.
@DBacaMaker
6 жыл бұрын
But not in tailoring. It's a valuable edge. In this case, it seems Lou used it for a solid edge, as I would for a hem, and that makes a lot of sense to my tailoring mind. However, I would really like to know the facts about why the selvage is not used for these boat-building applications.
@justinr.8686
6 жыл бұрын
i dont know about boat building, I built things more akin to airplanes in terms of complexity, we removed the selvage because it is a different fiber and therefore behaves differently in the stress of the piece overall, whereas you want uniform consistency. For this application its not important really, but in general, in composites you remove it.
Another good man gone. A year from now you will be showing off your new autoclave. You will be an authority on the latest coring foams, your own favorite vacuum bagging techniques, ceramic enhanced cloth blends and 3D printed frames. Turn back while you still can
@admeyer777
Жыл бұрын
This is your opertunity to support and galvanise this in history this man is a genius all he needs is funding for his hard work. F me and my comments if we loose this knowledge then what NO make sure this man never is alone plz..
@admeyer777
Жыл бұрын
Your not wrong so lets make this man a god of the boat building world
Wish I could meet you at the tent sale! Great videos, thanks Lou.
I worry that water entering the wood grain will cause it to expand and delaminate; especially salt water. It's an interesting experiment and worth a try. New methods of boat building are not easy to develop. Time and experience are the best teachers. By the time that you are done, you'll know exactly how to do it. Thanks for posting Lou.
@TyphoonVstrom
6 жыл бұрын
You aren't aware of cold moulded construction, are you? It has been around for 50-60 years and has none of those issues. This is nothing new at all. Using it on a dory is new.
This is going to be a beautiful and durable boat Lou. Can’t wait to see it up close on the 14th. Maybe I can find another run that you left just for me like on the skiff......lmao
Hi Louis great job on the dorey nothings gonna break that bottom. Bill. UK
@sjobang
6 жыл бұрын
Moisture, trapped in the wood between the layers of fabric, will soon make this dory rot.
I like the part where you use the spreader to get the wrinkles out. Again a great informative video. Thank you for making and sharing it.
@jackmcclure2308
3 жыл бұрын
How to connect phone to hotspot
Sy SK dng ragam pembuatan perahu SMG sukses bung
Great work, well explained.
Laying it like a boss
Nice info, thx for sharing
Bullet proof, I like it. I know they make kayaks out of Kevlar and they take a beating.
To keep it from floating, it's best to use either vacuum infusing, or lay it up as you are, then vacuum bag it.
Love the lopped off index finger Lou. No boatbuilder worth his salt has all of them intact.
It is coming along nice!
@davidgriffin14
6 жыл бұрын
maybe by next year it will be done!
woooo I love your work!!
Electric scissors work wonderful, no unraveling, cut edges while epoxy is just past set and still rubbery with Auto body shop Bondo planes, you can get them Flat,concave and round, if already set hard, wood rasp works great.
🇦🇺. So interesting Lou what a great project
That Kevlar/carbon fibre cloth looks like a cow to work with, but you make it look like a doddle, Lou. Another great video! Oh, and that new shirt looks great on you :-)
Keep it up great stuff🤘
Nice work man, thanks :)
Cutting Kevlar or carbon fiber in the Raw is easy to do if you use tin snips with the fine teeth cut in the blades. those little teeth will keep the cloth from sliding out of the cutters and it'll cut like butter
@allanhwhite.kineticmobiles
6 жыл бұрын
Steve Gem: Have you actually used tin snips to cut Kevlar? I would love to see some examples of your work.
New Shirt!! Cheers from Tokyo!
That looks great and should really make the bottom strong and watertight.
You know if you use peel ply there is less sending at the end. Great job I learn a lot from you.
After all the reinforcements this boat will be strong enough for re entry.
I think you do a great video and I am very much impressed by your knowledge of boats and boat building. Your years of experience show. I do have a question. I live in the south and its hard to find good oak lumber here and when I can it is priced out of my market. I would like to build a dory such as the sport dory but for lakes and rivers around my home since I live in a land locked state. Would pine or spruce work for lakes and rivers? Thanks in advance.
@pauleohl
6 жыл бұрын
+wade titcomb Forget spruce. It has to be the fastest rotting wood that is commonly used.
@wadetitcombe9971
6 жыл бұрын
Thank you.
@kentblairl
6 жыл бұрын
Wade, we are near Pensacola and you might look around for cypress, longleaf or southern yellow pine, think about what the locals would have used. Some places it is easy to find, there is a cypress mill in Milton Florida, Steve Cross' sawmill in Iron City Georgia and several lumber shippers in South Florida. There are always strength/weight/rot resistance/availability/price trade offs. Also the builder's decision of whether you want your dory materials, fasteners and coatings to build a 7 year dory or a 100 year dory. Maybe a road trip is in order to get the lumber you'd like! Grab a cup of coffee and look over this wood selection table by Sam Rabl, it will give you some ideas: smallboatrestoration.blogspot.com/2017/09/wood-selection-table-by-sam-rabl-27-sep.html
@wadetitcombe9971
6 жыл бұрын
Thanks. I will check that out.
There is no saturated Kevlar fabric with resin. The resin will only encapsulate the Kevlar. That is what makes it so bad when exposed to Moister, it's soaks up water like a sponge. If the water freezes it'll fracture the piece of matrix allowing more water to get soaked up and eventually you'll end up with a bunch of mush with the Kevlar. This is not the case with your carbon fabric or glass.
I'm new to working to carbon fiber. Wondering if you could create a vacuum bag to suck the carbon/kevlar down tight.
I posted this as a response to a comment below, in regards to people complaining about the content of this video series. I believe it needs to be stated clearly for all: If you feel so strongly about it, how about you step up and pay Lou to make the videos you want to see? You get content for FREE, so you have no say in what you see. What makes people like you so entitled? You do understand Lou makes these videos on the side, he has to make time (and money) from working actual paid jobs, don't you? I see an very experienced shipwrght who loves his work, freely sharing his enthusiasm and vast experience with the world for FREE. Did I mention FREE? Get over yourself.
Kevlar is great for low strength, but high abrasion resistance.
@TyphoonVstrom
6 жыл бұрын
Kevlar's tensile strength is higher than steel for a given cross section. So, it also provides strength to the bottom. It has excellent impact strength, which is perfect for a small, beach launched boat.
170 comments, so I didn't read them all, but if anyone was to wonder, no, this would not be bullet-proof. Not enough layers of Kevlar and not Kevlar alone, but a hybrid weave. Six to seven more layers of pure Kevlar larered in, and a low powered shot at a shallower angle than say about 30°, and the shot might glance off only leaving a small scar or gouge. (Kind of like the Kevlar helmets the Army was issuing in Desert Storm in 199p-1991. Not bullet proof, but a glancing shot from a distance would "ricochet" off.)
A trick we use in aviation when mixing is to mix it in a cup like you did. Then transfer the batch to another cup and mix some more. This makes sure all is well mixed.
Hi Louis, why use Kevlar/ Carbon fibre combo rather than just carbon fibre? Your series is an absolute treat mate, hope to visit your part of the planet next year and convince you to go for a pint or six.
hi Lou, great watch again, the time flies by as it is so absorbing,lm already wondering is there boat number three in the pipe line? l for one would love there to be your a natural entertainer and teacher all the best from Poole in south of England, look it up Lou !
Hmm. Won't water soon become trapped between the two waterproof layers, as the carbon/kevlar cloth wears out or gets scratched, and cause the boat to rot?
I think you need to add some heat tiles from the Space Shuttle to the bottom ....
nice
I know you are a mater at your craft. I’m not criticizing. Im wondering why you didnt do a couple saturation coats before you applied the first carbon fiber ? Hope you answer on you question and answer video
Did you consider using monell staples to hold the cloth down?
How does moisture, trapped in the wood between the layers of fabric, escape?
That seems like the perfect spot for vacuum bagging. You wouldn't have had to keep trying to smooth it down and would have kept the weight down by pulling off excess resin.
@TyphoonVstrom
6 жыл бұрын
His laminate looks to me to have the perfect amount of resin in it- it's hardly oversaturated.
I would love to see cost of materials
yes
The store isn't working for me. Anyone else experiencing the same?
Good work! What about 100% carbon boat or carbon batwing for electroglide?
In my experiance Kevlar and water are a bad combination, small cracks in the resin matrix, pinholes or abrasions that expose the Kevlar propagate delamination of the Kevlar fibers, leaving you with a mess to repair. In my industry we routinely replace Kevlar cloth with fiberglass as a straight across equivalent.
Is this composite waterproof or will it be gelled or painted?
Didn't see what happened to the front where there was extra kevlar. I won't be duplicating this technique but someone who wishes to probably needs to see that.
Does this resin smell? It should smell, so how do you deal with that?
@kentblairl
6 жыл бұрын
Epoxy resin has negligible smell. Polyester resin has more of a smell.
@austntexan
4 жыл бұрын
If you use any of this stuff, wear a respirator. Total boat's stuff might not be harmful but I've used some real nasty stuff before. Wear gloves when you mix it and handle it.
Does the epoxy and different fabrics cost less than fifty thousand dollars?
You can use just regular cellophane tape on your cut lines to stop the carbon fiber from unraveling, as shown in this: kzread.info/dash/bejne/p2uElaaSnK_fntY.html video, starting at about 11:25. That way, you have minimal waste. In another video, he also uses something that he calls a bubble buster, which is like a spikey paint roller to press the carbon fiber into the resin.
I wanna to order n learn about used meterial u used..plz tell me
Couldn’t a sailmaker have made a one piece of the Kevlar carbon cloth with sewn sides?
Is that UHMW polypropylene?
Why 2 pieces rather than a single sheet?
Your not using the graduations on the cup correctly, it was a ounce and a half heavy on the hardened in the video
@TyphoonVstrom
6 жыл бұрын
Interesting. Seems like it kicked off just fine, and he's been doing it that way forever, so must've been OK....
So this boat is definitely not going to have any structural issues. You could probably put a few rounds in it ... without any any leakage.... using a M1 tank
"Ironbottom" - Nickname for the Dory?
@davidgriffin14
6 жыл бұрын
or "THE 20 YEAR BOAT BUILD"!
@MarkWladika
6 жыл бұрын
Nah, Lou will do it right and in the right time.
@TyphoonVstrom
6 жыл бұрын
The tank dory- built like a tank!
Lou, you said one time what goes over the kevlar??
@austntexan
4 жыл бұрын
eglass, then i think putty and sanding flat. I don't understand why he did this in 2 pieces. I used this stuff before, it's not that difficult to get it to cooperate. That first sealing coat is key though, it's helps it keep from floating up. Then you keep on eye on it while it cures out. I would do a part, throw it in a hotbox, then pull it out and go over the part with a spreader and stick it back in the box.
Peel ply or vacuum bag. Trim edge when almost set with new razor
@zeusapollo8688
6 жыл бұрын
Came out very well the way you did it tho
@lunkydog
6 жыл бұрын
You obviously haven't tried to cut Kevlar with a razor. It's nothing like glass or carbon. Miserable stuff to cut.
@zeusapollo8688
6 жыл бұрын
We dont get that fancy stuff in the third world
So, I can understand why you used Kevlar on the bottom for abrasion resistance, but the carbon fiber is hardly better than S2 glass unless you are concerned about weight and it is one third the price.
Lou, usually your techniques are great, but you are not using the graduations on that cup correctly. The right way to get a 2:1 ratio with that sort of cup is to find the column with the heading "2:1:1" at the top. Under the heading are three columns of numbers. If you want four units of mixed epoxy, you first fill the cup with epoxy up to the lowest "4" mark - in the left-hand column. Then add hardener up to the second "4" mark - in the next column to the right of the first one. The way you are doing it might work, but because of the taper of the cup, I don't think it gives the correct ratio.
@TyphoonVstrom
6 жыл бұрын
And yet, he has been doing it that way forever, and it sure looks like the resin kicked off just fine......
@aallwwkk
6 жыл бұрын
He put in 4oz of hardener and 6oz of resin. 10oz total. Should have been 12oz total to get 2:1. It kicked off fine but he's wasting hardener.
@TyphoonVstrom
6 жыл бұрын
How is it "wasting" if it achieved the desired result?
What do you call the plastic you used for the ribs? Where is it available?
@forthwithtx5852
6 жыл бұрын
I think it was HDPE, like milk jugs.
@TomLeg
6 жыл бұрын
Google - the font of all knowledge - HD-PE ..As explained by some guy named Louis Sauzedde - .kzread.info/dash/bejne/h5d2xth8mNe3m7g.html
what is the pot life?
Lou, i put 1/4 or 1/8 fine-line tape from body shop warehouse on kelvar,, w/kevlar sissors l cut tape to 64th or 32nd thin. Kevlar cuts like a dream that way and tape wets out. On a mold, i put duratec (like gelcoat), then super thin fglass, then kevlar down in mold. Your method worked great too but thought I would tell ya my tape trick. Recumbents dot com, Carolina. Building velomobiles /HPV
Lou, rhetorical question, don't expect an answer but maybe viewers can help. Why didn't you just use a big slab of UHMW for the entire bottom, instead of that composite concoction. Since you went non-traditional to eliminate wear, shrinking, expanding why all the machinations with wood,carbon fiber resin layers and so on. Love your channel and work, maybe it's something I don't get.
@johnferguson7235
6 жыл бұрын
I think that he wants the wooden bottom for ease of repair and appearance.
@nathanklamerus1640
6 жыл бұрын
I think UHMW is too flexible, the exact trait he's trying to eliminate. It is also not very abrasive resistant, dragging it across a beach or even bunk loading it would scratch it in a hurry.
@Crewsy
6 жыл бұрын
His wooden composite bottom will likely be much lighter and stiffer than a UHMW bottom would be.
@RealLuckless
6 жыл бұрын
Issues with making the bottom out of UHMW: 1. Where are you getting stock material in that size, and how much are you paying for it all? 2. How are you casting/pressing/machining it to final shape? 3. What is the engineering going into designing the shape/thicknesses with confidence that it will be durable enough without wasted materials? (The wood-fabric composite he is currently using is a very familiar process and materials for the most part, with fairly minimal 'newness' at play, and offers very low chance of any negative surprises for him I would imagine.)
@TyphoonVstrom
6 жыл бұрын
Dories get all their strength from that bottom and first side plank. Their framing is very light, they have no keel structure or chine logs. So, Lou has built a very light, extremely stiff composite bottom to make the dory very rigid.
I have a queston,i have a old tri hull and the back end is out , rotton, with a fibreglass exterior,what is the best way to fix this ,can u tell me.?
@pauleohl
6 жыл бұрын
+Emil Holz Now you know what happens when glass covers or encapsulates wood. The wood rots under the glass.
@TyphoonVstrom
6 жыл бұрын
Only when it's not actually encapsulated. Production boats do this because they drill and then don't seal holes through the wood. The wood gets wet and stays wet.
@pauleohl
6 жыл бұрын
In practice the wood cannot be truly encapsulated. Water vapor permeates through the laminate even if the laminate does not develop cracks. The whole concept is only good for racing boats or other craft where light weight and limited life is recognized as part of the design.