Boat build part 5 - Lower hull, initial preparation
This is the fift video in a series on how to build a bait boat.
While building the lower hull I spent a lot of time messing with glue. And my fingers usually ended up quite messy. But for the lower hull, the holes we make sits below the waterline. And the pressure from the water is immense. There is absolutely zero tolarance for even a single drop coming through. The lower boat hull is either 100 % waterproof, or you have a disaster waiting to happen.
Here I mount in a transducer of a Raymarine Dragonfly Pro 5. And it is really big for this small hull. Normally, on a larger boat, I usually glue this inside the hull. But this hull is too small. So I needed to carefully cut a hole in the bottom. And pay great attention to make the hole exactly right. I also glued it twice from the inside, and finished off gluing twide from the outside as well. To have an OK looking result I also took the time needed to carefully tape around the edges outside. The result was not perfect, but at normal looking distance I found it looked quite well. Most importantly, though: After sitting in the sink for half an hour, not a single drop came through!
Due to weight limitations for this boat I removed the orignal casing and screen. And soldered on an antenna socket. Such a job is not recommended for the beginner. But I have a link here for anyone that wants to try. The video is from a German Facebook forum, made by a really skilled guy named Philip Buchholz. Even if you do not understand German the video is really high quality, I would be surprised if you could not understand how to do the same by just looking. Provided you have the tools and the skills, of course. If you do not know what you are doing here you may easily wreck your precious Dragonfly. You either have the skills, or you let someone else do it for you (much cheaper than damaging your gear).
Link to the amazing video on the dragonfly:
• Raymarine Dragonfly 4/...
When the job in this video is completed, and we have properly tested the result is waterproof, the time has finally come to the fun part of mounting all of our electronic equipment in the upcoming video.
Videos planned to follow up after this introduction:
Part 1: Introduction and overview
Part 2: Preparing a pixhawk before we put it into the boat
Part 3: Walkthrough of the additional components bought and printed
Part 4: Building the upper hull (from parts to complete)
Part 5: [ this video ]
Part 6: Adding the lower hull power and signalling system
Part 7: Finalizing boat configuration
Part 8: Combining upper and lower hulls and gluing
Part 9: Settings in Carp Pilot Pro to fully support all boat features
Пікірлер: 22
Great Video series. I was waiting for this one especially👍👍.
Another great video! Admire the time given to make the videos👍
another great video explaining👌👌👌👍
Top 😊
I see my Dragonfly Case :D Or does it just look like my cas? xD Thx for the nice Video and thanks for supporting Philips work! :)
@TheCarpPilot
Жыл бұрын
This is the case made by DHconcepts (the owner is really capable working with Fusion). It differs slightly. But I suddenly realize it is you who made that case on thingiverse.com (same user name). Nice design, even with kind of a snaplock it seems. Well done! And sure: I was truly amazed by that video Philip made so I asked if I could please refer to it in my how-to series, and was really happy he approved that. Fun fact of my print by the way: I use ASA+ exclusively for all boat parts. But it is sometimes difficult, and I also used a brand new printer that I did not tune at all (besides the nozzle height). It is a Prusa and generally comes with fairly good starting values anyway. But... I further printed it on a bed material that is not the best match for ASA. And the print was a bit flawed, all corners lifted slightly from the plate. Otherwise the print was OK. And normally I would have put it in the trash. But in this particular case it was a good thing: the rounded corners actually made the box fit even better to the curved hull side where I glued the Raymarine in. So in this particular case the failed print was actually perfect 😂
@coolhand2002
Жыл бұрын
@@TheCarpPilot Yes the case on thingiverse is mine. :) I print the cases in PETG. No problems until yet. I have a fully modded Ender 5 and now also a Prusa Mini clone. Both with amazing results with PETG and ASA (from Extrudr).
Great video! Question, what glue did you use?
@TheCarpPilot
Жыл бұрын
I have always used Tec7 for boat jobs. And for this boat it was also used for the outer seal (upper and lower hull join). Tec7 has an ability that is both good and bad: It dires slowly. Which is great for the outer seal, you have sufficient time to make an OK finish. For thick layers (like the part back holding the propeller shank tube) not so great. Seems the inner part almost never dries and hardens. Better then add glue in portions gradually increasing it. Also not great at all for gluing those battery holders to the hull side. Guaranteed to slide down if you do not add some support to stay put until dried. Other glues are better choices. Like supergrip from Bostik. But hard to get where I live. Holds better straight after application, but outer skin also dries much quicker and thus much more demanding for sealing the hull parts. Really no glue that is optimal I guess. Here in Norway Tec7 is easy to get, so that's my general choice. And it is totally trusty for such work.
just a quick question, how did you split the transducer cable and also where does the raymarine power come from
@TheCarpPilot
6 ай бұрын
You either cut the cable in the middle and remove the mid section. Taking great care when putting it together that ALL isolation (plastic and metal films) are intact after soldering. Or you cut the cable short, desolder the socket from the raymarine board and then solder in the ends of the cable straight in.
@gavinlocke2369
6 ай бұрын
@TheCarpPilot brilliant thanks for the Reply , I've managed to get hold of the Raymarine dragonfly pro 5 I'm going fit it to a basic RT7 I won on a competition and your video has been brilliant
Do you have a link to the motors .where do you find them ? I can see they are 850 kv . But can't seem to find them anywhere.
@jrjohansen100
Жыл бұрын
I just find them at the first video .
@TheCarpPilot
Жыл бұрын
@@jrjohansen100 Yes, they are specified precisely in the first video. I bough mine from the big-difference web shop, here: big-difference.com/spitz-brushless-motor-2830-14-850kv The motors drive this boat at around 1.1 m/s. I have tuned it slightly down using WP_SPEED (Ardupilot parameter) to 0.9 m/s as I find the boat drives more gracefully then Will try to list all parts again in the last video when completed.
you can ask for the name or link to the drive shafts?
@TheCarpPilot
6 ай бұрын
These are custom made by DH Concepts ((even include ball bearings) and are typically supplied with the hull if you buy a hull from them.
Hi, Can you share the stl files for the bait thrower please?
@TheCarpPilot
11 ай бұрын
The bucket on top is printed using the original STL from DHconcepts. The same goes for the side grippers that holds the arrangement fixed to the top hull. I am bound to an NDA and I am thus not allowed to share it. Sorry for that.
Hi what's the Bostik glue called please?
@TheCarpPilot
7 ай бұрын
I normally use Tec7. Especially for sealing the boat as it dries slower and makes it possible to use Tec7 cleaner and make the seal look pretty. For mounting stuff inside the slow drying of Tec7 is however no advantage. Bostic Supergrip is then a better alternative as components stick to where glued (does not glide away) even before the glue dries.
@Daneastes
7 ай бұрын
Thanks for the quick reply, just jumping on to eBay now to order some, many thanks and I loved the videos. Dan @@TheCarpPilot