As someone who wants to get into hobby welding this video has a lot of great information from your expereinces. Will be a great reference when I finally pull the trigger to get my first welder. Thanks for putting this together.
@nathanquinlan27196 ай бұрын
Do not buy a cart. Weld one together as part of learning. Made mine out of an old steel bedframe. Good practice for filling voids/bolt holes. Then if you need to enlarge later you just do it with common materials.
@TheMiniMachineShop
6 ай бұрын
Not a bad idea should have thought of it myself!
@MyLilMule6 ай бұрын
A lot going on in this video. Sounds like you have been doing a lot of experimenting and learning. I also have a Miller helmet. You picked a good one. I've also heard good things about the Lincoln 3350 helmets. They are expensive. But, there's some things you mentioned that could be a bit misleading, not that I think it was intentional. I am a certified welder, both MIG and TIG (went to school through Lincoln Electric) but I don't do this full time. Take it for what it's worth. The wire feed speed dial IS for the speed of the wire and it directly correlates to the amperage. The reason why it seems like the dial makes no difference is either you have a defective unit, or, as many modern inverter welders are designed, it won't feed the wire at full speed when there is no arc. There has to be an arc present for the wire to feed at the correct rate. There is a HUGE difference between the slowest setting and the fastest setting. I would imagine that if you tried welding at the slowest setting and then tried at the fastest setting, you MIGHT be able to notice or even feel the wire feeding much faster. At the fastest speed, it might even start bouncing off the material. There is nearly no difference at all between ER70S-2 and ER70S-6. The wire code can be decoded as follows: ER = Electrode Rod, 70 = 70,000 psi tensile strength, S = Solid Wire. The -2 and the -6 merely determine the chemical composition of the wire. The -6 wire has a higher silicon content. Supposedly for better fluidity in the welds in certain circumstances. But I see no difference in them. All of my TIG filler wire is ER70S-2 and my MIG wire is all ER70S-6 (at least the solid wire). Flux core wire doesn't have a flux coating. The flux is in the core. The wire is actually wrapped around the flux during some manufacturing processes. The reason for the knurls is so you don't have to use as much pressure to feed the softer flux cored wire and it's easier to deform it. Lastly, I would check your flow meter to make sure you aren't reading LITERS vs CUBIC FEET. 15 LPM is roughly 35 SCFM. Keep learning and keep experimenting. It's a terrific hobby.
@TheMiniMachineShop
6 ай бұрын
This is a very much appreciated comment! I do stand by what I said as a result of my experiments with the 140. The chart does state -6 no -2 and I do see a big difference in the weld. And once I started treating the WFS as amps the MIG welds completely changed and also the sound. Last I am reading CFM there is no liter listed only bar. Your comment leads me to believe there are some differences to welders.
@tomt9543
6 ай бұрын
Retired (41 years worth) certified welder here also, and on the deal about where many newer machines wont feed at the set ipm if there’s no arc present, that makes it hard to do the classic old school way of verifying WFS (or IPM inches per minute). We would cut the wire even with the nozzle, pull the trigger for exactly 6 seconds, measure the wire from end to the nozzle and multiply by 10 (or hold it 10 and multiply by 6). That would tell you exactly what your speed is. And WFS is amps. The flow meter is the way to go! On the stick vs mig subject, unless you do no outside work, the mig is ok, but if there’s a breeze or wind present, the mig is going to be useless because all your shielding gas will be blown away and your weld will look like a loaf of bread! Stick is unaffected by wind, and is the process of choice for outdoor work. The fact of being limited to the length of the mig gun lead, the stick has another advantage there, because you can link welding cable together with quick disconnects and run up to a couple hundred feet if needed , to reach challenging places. Personal opinion: Every diy person is Gaga over mig machines. Especially the 120 volt machines - They are a totally great way to piss away some money. Buy lottery tickets with the money and if you win spend the money to get a 220 volt machine! Then you have to buy a gas cylinder. The purchase of a stick welder is in many cases cheaper than the mig machines (220), are ready to use straight out of the box, and you don’t have to dick around with gas cylinders! Stick electrodes are available in many sizes, 3/32” & 1/8” being the most widely used, and in different compositions for different purposes. I could go on all night, but I’m going to stop! There’s tons of sketchy info out there. Beware
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Feliz año 2024 , aprendiendo otra ves
As someone who wants to get into hobby welding this video has a lot of great information from your expereinces. Will be a great reference when I finally pull the trigger to get my first welder. Thanks for putting this together.
Do not buy a cart. Weld one together as part of learning. Made mine out of an old steel bedframe. Good practice for filling voids/bolt holes. Then if you need to enlarge later you just do it with common materials.
@TheMiniMachineShop
6 ай бұрын
Not a bad idea should have thought of it myself!
A lot going on in this video. Sounds like you have been doing a lot of experimenting and learning. I also have a Miller helmet. You picked a good one. I've also heard good things about the Lincoln 3350 helmets. They are expensive. But, there's some things you mentioned that could be a bit misleading, not that I think it was intentional. I am a certified welder, both MIG and TIG (went to school through Lincoln Electric) but I don't do this full time. Take it for what it's worth. The wire feed speed dial IS for the speed of the wire and it directly correlates to the amperage. The reason why it seems like the dial makes no difference is either you have a defective unit, or, as many modern inverter welders are designed, it won't feed the wire at full speed when there is no arc. There has to be an arc present for the wire to feed at the correct rate. There is a HUGE difference between the slowest setting and the fastest setting. I would imagine that if you tried welding at the slowest setting and then tried at the fastest setting, you MIGHT be able to notice or even feel the wire feeding much faster. At the fastest speed, it might even start bouncing off the material. There is nearly no difference at all between ER70S-2 and ER70S-6. The wire code can be decoded as follows: ER = Electrode Rod, 70 = 70,000 psi tensile strength, S = Solid Wire. The -2 and the -6 merely determine the chemical composition of the wire. The -6 wire has a higher silicon content. Supposedly for better fluidity in the welds in certain circumstances. But I see no difference in them. All of my TIG filler wire is ER70S-2 and my MIG wire is all ER70S-6 (at least the solid wire). Flux core wire doesn't have a flux coating. The flux is in the core. The wire is actually wrapped around the flux during some manufacturing processes. The reason for the knurls is so you don't have to use as much pressure to feed the softer flux cored wire and it's easier to deform it. Lastly, I would check your flow meter to make sure you aren't reading LITERS vs CUBIC FEET. 15 LPM is roughly 35 SCFM. Keep learning and keep experimenting. It's a terrific hobby.
@TheMiniMachineShop
6 ай бұрын
This is a very much appreciated comment! I do stand by what I said as a result of my experiments with the 140. The chart does state -6 no -2 and I do see a big difference in the weld. And once I started treating the WFS as amps the MIG welds completely changed and also the sound. Last I am reading CFM there is no liter listed only bar. Your comment leads me to believe there are some differences to welders.
@tomt9543
6 ай бұрын
Retired (41 years worth) certified welder here also, and on the deal about where many newer machines wont feed at the set ipm if there’s no arc present, that makes it hard to do the classic old school way of verifying WFS (or IPM inches per minute). We would cut the wire even with the nozzle, pull the trigger for exactly 6 seconds, measure the wire from end to the nozzle and multiply by 10 (or hold it 10 and multiply by 6). That would tell you exactly what your speed is. And WFS is amps. The flow meter is the way to go! On the stick vs mig subject, unless you do no outside work, the mig is ok, but if there’s a breeze or wind present, the mig is going to be useless because all your shielding gas will be blown away and your weld will look like a loaf of bread! Stick is unaffected by wind, and is the process of choice for outdoor work. The fact of being limited to the length of the mig gun lead, the stick has another advantage there, because you can link welding cable together with quick disconnects and run up to a couple hundred feet if needed , to reach challenging places. Personal opinion: Every diy person is Gaga over mig machines. Especially the 120 volt machines - They are a totally great way to piss away some money. Buy lottery tickets with the money and if you win spend the money to get a 220 volt machine! Then you have to buy a gas cylinder. The purchase of a stick welder is in many cases cheaper than the mig machines (220), are ready to use straight out of the box, and you don’t have to dick around with gas cylinders! Stick electrodes are available in many sizes, 3/32” & 1/8” being the most widely used, and in different compositions for different purposes. I could go on all night, but I’m going to stop! There’s tons of sketchy info out there. Beware