Boomers hate it, but 3D printing is so incredibly useful for the hobby for so many reasons.

love Atlas flex track. That is all I will ever use...

@InterurbanEra

Жыл бұрын

...and so you shall!

Great advice

The advice towards the beginning of the video was nice and I will have to keep this in mind when I one day get around to building my own layout and I love this little series so far keep up the good work

I run with an nmra modular layout and last weekend we set it up for a show. It's embarrassing I can run my nice, highly detailed stuff at home on a layout that doesn't even have benchwork underneath, no road bed, just atlas snap track on two particleboard 4'x8's, but I can't run a single thing on the expertly done module layout with constant derailments. On every single curve where modules meet, the rails raise up and have a pointed hump from wear and tear. Everyone has issues with running anything yet nobody listens to me showing them "hey, look at this and tell me how anything stays on the rails, this needs to be fixed before the next set up" and absolutely nothing is done about it. But I guess it doesn't really matter anymore since my module group is retiring the layout and converting over to HO T-trak instead.

@InterurbanEra

Жыл бұрын

I've always been curious about how modular layouts wear. I'm designing one at the moment that'll have pieces of snap track as completely removable sections to eliminate mishandling accidents between modules since as you pointed out it could be a real problem!

This video came out at the right time! I was about to buy the Atlas track I needed for my layout then I saw this video. I am now considering Pico Code 100 track because of the looks and quality. Also layout update! I have the tables built and instead of a U it will be L shaped. I have the ideas I want and the track plan. There will be no turntable, but I will have a yard. There will be a bridge and I will have a small town. There will be a few plateaus that the train will go through and around. Your videos really help! Keep up the amazing work!

@InterurbanEra

Жыл бұрын

I'm so glad you enjoyed this, and I'm also pleased that you're getting to work building your layout, hopefully with even nicer track than you initially considered.

@davidcurtis5398

Жыл бұрын

have used Atlas track from the beginning. Used it in a club I was a member of and we had about 300 scale miles of track. Looks great when ballasted and is easy to work with. Curves are easy when you solder 2 or 3 pieces together on a table before trying to install. I buy all of my rack and switches used at train shows.

Dude my dad's Brothers cousins friend baristas lawyer who knows a friend who knows a guy once saw an atlas switch and your comment about that atlas might be getting to him

@InterurbanEra

Жыл бұрын

Not...*That guy!* Gasp. Hahaha

I'm going to disagree on your switch advise, but also offer constructive feedback. I do not like the Atlas switches, but I also have had issues with the PECO switches. In high use situations, they wear quickly. I know of a number of PECO's on my clubs layout that will soon need replaced, and a few on much nicer railroads that are starting to cause issues. This is due to the fact PECO's have plastic frogs. These tend to wear, and eventually have grooving or wide gauge issues. I have also had problems with the contacts on PECO power routing switches fail. This is due to the little metal tabs which wear over time. My solutions? Walthers turnouts or make it myself. The new Walthers turnouts are MUCH closer to the old Shinohara, but with more refinements. They are a one piece point rail, so joint to fail. They also employ metal frogs. They are currently available to hobby shops, so unlike the ME switches they are available. The solution I mainly use are the Fastracks turnouts. They can be a steep learning curve, but once you get them dialed in they are smoother than anything else available. You can hold them to exact gauge, and adjust guard rail distance to ensure smooth operation. You can use the jigs, but once you've got the hang of it you can make your own shapes in whatever size you need. They are unfortunately a high initial investment, but using Atlas rail and Clover House ties, cost becomes about $3 a switch. Construction takes about 1 hour per switch, so the time investment is higher. Probably more information than is really needed, but track can be a lot of fun. And if you're REALLY crazy, there's always hand laying it. Hand lay requires more planning, but looks sweet once done with real wood ties, tie plates, and fully cast turnout frogs.

@InterurbanEra

Жыл бұрын

I think this is all very solid advice, and I appreciate you taking the time to write all of this. I had a client invest in Fast Tracks for his HOn3 branchline, and yeah, nearly $1000 investment between jigs, rail, and tools. However, it was indeed worth it, because he not only grew a skill he ended up enjoying, he can now produce any switch he wants. Plus, they look gorgeous when done correctly. I'll have to circle back around with the new Walthers track. I heard they completely redid everything from the ground up with this next generation, so I'm curious how well they perform. I've been impressed with the efforts Walthers has been making with their very well designed new bridges, so I imagine the track will be of similar spec. As with any of my videos, I'll report back to see how my 100% PECO/ME layout turns out as it ages. I'm curious myself, and will forever keep learning, refining my views, and of course have a blast model railroading. Cheers!

I know you said that the atlas switches were bad, but are the straight track and curves still good to use? I don’t want to use flex tracl

@InterurbanEra

Жыл бұрын

Honestly, yes! Altas built their reputation on making the best "snap track" of all back in the 1970s and it's still good. Especially the curved radius pieces. I'd recommend the code 83 curves in 18/22/24"R. they're the newest tooling and work really nicely.

With peco and ME track, do you just solder them together, or use track connectors?

@InterurbanEra

Жыл бұрын

Always use rail joiners. Often when joining code 83 (as opposed to 100) I use either PECO joiners or Atlas code 80 N scale joiners. You only need to solder connections if specific joints need extra strength or its where you want to drop a wire lead for electrical connections.

Did you use exclusively nails to hold the track down?

@InterurbanEra

3 ай бұрын

Initially yes! Until the track was perfectly aligned. Then the titebond 2 glue in the ballast will eventually hold it in place perfectly and very strongly.

@michaelstrains4014

3 ай бұрын

That’s what I was thinking. Does it help with the noise you get from gluing everything?

@InterurbanEra

3 ай бұрын

@@michaelstrains4014 seems to, yes!